Tools & PPE
- Floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" and 3/8" drive ratchets, breaker bar
- Metric and SAE socket set (deep sockets for shock studs). Common sizes: 13–22 mm / 1/2"–7/8"
- Combination wrenches
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 150 ft·lb / 200 Nm)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar)
- Hammer, punch
- Pry bar
- Large bench vise or hydraulic press (for bushing removal/installation)
- Spring compressor (if dealing with a strut assembly)
- Impact wrench (optional, speeds job; use with care)
- Wire brush, gasket scraper
- Anti-seize / thread locker (as specified by parts)
- Safety glasses, gloves, protective footwear

Replacement parts commonly required
- New shock absorber or strut (if original shows wear)
- Upper strut mount assembly (bearing + mount) for strut-type front
- Shock bushings (upper/lower), crush sleeve/sleeve, washers and new nuts/bolts (always replace hardware if corroded or one‑time use)
- Mounting studs if damaged
- Rubber isolators/perch pads (rear axle perches)
Note: It’s best to buy a mount/strut kit for the corner you’re working on so seals, bearings and hardware are matched.

Safety precautions (must-do)
- Work on flat level surface; chock opposite wheels.
- Use rated jack stands under solid pinch welds or axle — never rely on the jack.
- If compressing a coil spring, use a proper spring compressor and follow its instructions exactly. Compressed springs store lethal energy.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Beware of rusty bolts that can snap.
- Support the control arm/axle before unbolting shocks so suspension doesn’t drop uncontrollably and damage hoses/lines.
- If using heat to free bolts, keep heat away from gas shocks, fuel lines and electrical wiring.

General notes before starting
- Consult the factory service manual for exact torque specs and any model-specific steps. I’m giving workshop-standard procedure — some details (bolt sizes, torque values) vary by vehicle code.
- Replace both mounts or both shocks on an axle if one side is failed — prevents imbalance and saves labor in future.

Procedure A — Front strut top-mount replacement (strut-type front)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Raise front, support on jack stands under frame. Remove wheel.
- Apply penetrating oil to strut-to-knuckle lower bolt and top mount nuts through engine bay (let soak).

2. Support suspension
- Place a second jack under the lower control arm or hub to support the suspension so it does not drop when bolts are removed.

3. Remove lower strut fasteners
- Remove any ABS/brake line brackets from the strut.
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts. If frozen, use penetrating oil and breaker bar or torch with caution (avoid rubber/lines). Remove sway bar link to get strut free if necessary.

4. Remove top mount nuts
- Open hood. Remove the three (typical) top nuts securing the strut mount to the body. Hold strut center shaft with a hex or screwdriver through top of strut (if applicable) while loosening nut so the shaft doesn’t turn.

5. Remove strut assembly
- Lower the supporting jack gradually and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.

6. Compress spring & disassemble strut
- Securely mount spring compressor onto coil (follow compressor instructions). Compress evenly until spring tension is off the top mount.
- Remove the top nut and disassemble. Carefully remove old mount, bearing and dust boot.

7. Replace mount & bearings
- Fit new mount/bearing and any new dust boot/insulator. If the bearing is directional, ensure correct orientation.
- If using the same strut cartridge, inspect strut for leaks/rod damage; replace whole strut if worn.

8. Reassemble
- Reinstall top nut and torque per parts instructions (if using used strut, tighten per manual). Release spring compressor slowly and evenly.

9. Refit assembly
- Position strut back into tower; loosely install top nuts to hold it.
- Reattach lower strut-to-knuckle bolts. Torque lower and top nuts to factory specifications.
- Reattach any brackets and sway bar links. Refit wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lugs.

Procedure B — Rear shock mount replacement (solid axle / standard shock)
1. Preparation
- Chock front wheels, loosen rear wheel nuts if needed.
- Raise rear, support on jack stands under frame. Remove rear wheel for access if helpful.

2. Support axle
- Place a hydraulic jack under axle housing or lower control arm to support axle weight. This prevents suspension from dropping when shock is removed.

3. Remove shock
- Spray penetrating oil on upper and lower shock mount nuts/bolts.
- Remove lower bolt first (helps control dropping). Remove upper nut/bolt.
- If bolts are heavily corroded, use a 6‑point deep socket and breaker bar; hold stud with wrench to prevent spinning.

4. Inspect mounts & bushings
- Pull shock out. Inspect upper bushing and mount area — if the rubber is perished, press out old bushing or cut carefully and extract sleeve.
- For chassis-mounted rubber bushings, replacement often requires pressing or a vise to push new bushing in. Use new crush sleeve inside bushing if required.

5. Install new bushings/mount or new shock
- If installing a new shock, fit new bushings and sleeves onto the shock shaft (grease recommended if specified).
- Insert shock into mount, align, insert bolts. Hand-tighten nuts.

6. Torque and final steps
- With axle at normal ride height (lower jack until suspension is loaded), torque upper and lower mounts to factory spec. Loading the suspension prevents pre-loading bushings improperly.
- Refit wheel if removed; lower vehicle and torque wheel nuts.

Using the press, vise, and spring compressor — how tools are used
- Spring compressor: Hook compressors on opposite coils, tighten evenly in small increments (alternate sides). Compress until spring no longer bears on the top mount. Never reuse a damaged compressor.
- Hydraulic press / bench vise for bushings: Use an appropriately sized receiver tube under the bushing and a pressing mandrel that only contacts the metal sleeve or bushing outer surface. Press straight to avoid cocking. If using a vise and hammer method, be very cautious — a press is preferred.
- Impact wrench: Good for freeing rusted fasteners. If using, switch to torque wrench for final tightening to avoid over-torquing. Use sockets rated for impact use.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the suspension/axle: leads to dropped components, torn lines or personal injury. Always support before removing bolts.
- Inadequate spring compression: leads to sudden spring release. Use correct compressor and method.
- Reusing rusty or stretched hardware: cheaper to replace hardware and avoid bolt failure. Replace upper strut nut/bolt if one-time torque design.
- Forgetting to preload bushings: some mounts must be torqued with the suspension at ride height — follow manual or torque with suspension loaded where specified.
- Using heat near gas shocks/fuel lines: can rupture shock or ignite fuel; use penetrating oil and cold methods first.
- Cross-threading studs: start threads by hand before using tools; use anti-seize on studs if new.
- Not replacing worn shocks at same time: a new mount on a worn shock only hides the issue briefly; best practice is shock + mount together.

Final checks & road test
- After reassembly and torquing, cycle suspension by pushing down on vehicle to seat mounts.
- Re-check torques after road test (100–200 km or first week).
- Listen for clunks or squeaks; re-check mounting hardware if any noise occurs.
- Alignment: if you disturbed strut positioning or any control arm bolts, do an alignment check.

Torque reminder
- Torque values vary by exact model. Use factory service manual or the torque chart supplied with replacement parts. If specification is not available, do not guess — under/over torquing risks failure.

Done — follow these steps exactly, replace worn parts, and use proper tools for safe, durable repair.
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