- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; work on flat level ground; chock rear wheels; set parking brake.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental starts and electrical shorts while you work near the shifter/console.
- If you will lift the vehicle, use a quality floor jack and place vehicle securely on jack stands (never rely on the jack alone).

- Tools (each with what it is and how to use it)
- Floor jack
- Hydraulic device to lift the vehicle. Place on manufacturer recommended jacking point, pump handle to lift. Hold vehicle with jack stands before going underneath.
- Jack stands
- Telescoping stands to support the vehicle. After lifting, lower vehicle onto stands; ensure stands contact solid pinch weld or frame and the vehicle sits stably.
- Wheel chocks
- Blocks to prevent vehicle roll. Put behind and/or in front of wheels not being lifted.
- Safety glasses and mechanic gloves
- Protect eyes and hands from debris, fluid and sharp edges.
- Ratchet and socket set (metric and SAE)
- Ratchet is the handle that drives sockets; sockets fit over bolt heads/nuts. Use correct size socket and extensions to remove console screws, transmission bracket bolts, and cable retaining bolts. Use extension bars for recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set
- Open-end/box-end wrenches for nuts/bolts where sockets don't fit. Match wrench size to fastener and pull or push steadily to avoid rounding.
- Torque wrench
- Click-type or beam wrench to tighten bolts to specified torque (prevents over/under-tightening). Use when re-installing critical fasteners (brackets, console bolts if spec is given).
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For removing trim screws, console screws, or small fasteners. Use correct tip size to avoid stripping heads.
- Trim removal tools (plastic pry tools)
- Plastic wedges to pry up trim pieces and console bezels without gouging or scratching plastic.
- Needle-nose pliers
- For reaching and pulling cotter pins, clips, and small parts. Grip and pull retaining clips or cable ends.
- Slip-joint pliers / locking pliers (Vise-Grip)
- For pinching, holding, or removing stubborn clips and for holding nuts while unscrewing bolts.
- Circlip / snap-ring pliers (if applicable)
- If the cable end is held by internal snap rings; use pliers to open/close ring safely.
- Pick set (small hooked picks)
- To pry out small rubber bushings, split clips, and grommets from consoles and brackets.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist, Liquid Wrench)
- Spray on rusted/berned bolts and stuck clips to loosen them. Let soak before removing.
- Hammer / rubber mallet
- Light taps to free stuck cable ends or coax brackets free. Use rubber mallet to avoid damage.
- Drill and drill bits (extra tool, explained below)
- Sometimes rivets secure cable brackets; drill out rivets and replace with bolts or rivets. Use standard drill, appropriate bit to remove rivet head.
- Pop-rivet gun / bolts + nuts (extra tool)
- If original bracket rivets are drilled out, use a pop rivet or bolt/nut to reattach the bracket.
- zip ties and small wire (for temporary routing)
- Keep cable routed and secured while you fit and test it.
- Wire cutters
- Trim zip ties and cut any zip-tie packaging.
- Shop rags and cleaning solvent
- Clean mounting surfaces, remove grease and debris so bushings seat properly.
- Grease or silicone spray (cable lubricant)
- Lubricate new cable or rubber grommets for smooth movement.
- Replacement parts (see list below) — bring them before starting so you don’t get stuck mid-job.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- Impact wrench
- Speeds removal of stubborn bolts; not required but useful if bolts are rusted or tight.
- Transmission support or second jack
- Required if you must remove a transmission or transfer case bracket that supports weight; keeps transmission from shifting when a bracket is unbolted.
- Long extension, universal joint / swivel socket
- Reach awkward bolts under the shifter tunnel or undercarriage; prevents stripping when angle is tricky.
- Drill + rivet gun (explained above)
- Many cable brackets are riveted; to remove them you’ll need to drill and then re-rivet or bolt the replacement.
- Shop light
- Good visibility under dash and under vehicle.
- Service manual / repair manual (very strongly recommended)
- Gives model-specific fastener sizes, torque specs, bracket locations and special procedures. Use for precise reassembly.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Shift cable assembly (required if cable is broken, stretched, or binding)
- Symptoms: inability to shift, loose shifter, inability to engage gears, or slippage between shifter and transmission.
- Replacement part: OEM or aftermarket shift cable for the exact model (ensure correct fit for XH/XK variant).
- Rubber bushings / grommets where cable passes through firewall or console
- Wear causes play and vibration; replace to eliminate slop and seal out noise and water.
- Retaining clips / snap pins
- Often single-use or corroded; replace to securely attach cable ends.
- Transmission/transfer case lever socket / plastic cup
- If worn, cable moves in socket poorly; replace for accurate engagement.
- Cable mounting bracket or rivets
- If bracket is rusted or riveted and damaged during removal, replace or reattach with new rivets/bolts.
- Shifter lever or shifter bushing (console side)
- If shifter bushing is worn, new cable alone won’t fix sloppiness. Replace shifter bushing or lever if worn.
- Shift boot, console gasket, or trim pieces
- Replace if torn or brittle when removing/reinstalling trim.
- Shift interlock solenoid or related electrical parts (if auto)
- If vehicle won’t come out of park electronically, separate issue — may need diagnosis.

- Procedure (generalized, follow service manual for exact fasteners and torque)
- Prep: park, chock wheels, disconnect battery, lift and support vehicle if needed, remove any panels under dash or underbody shields blocking access to cable.
- Remove shift knob and console trim: use the screwdriver and trim tools to remove screws and pry up the console bezel and boot; save screws and take pictures if needed.
- Detach cable at shifter: locate the cable end on bottom of shifter, remove clip/pin and pull cable out of shifter socket; use needle-nose pliers and picks to release any grommets/pins.
- Free cable from routing points inside cabin: remove clips, zip ties, and console clamps holding the cable to the tunnel.
- Move to underside: follow cable to transmission/transfer case; use penetrating oil on the connection, remove retaining clip/pin/bolt that secures cable to transmission lever.
- Remove bracket or fasteners as needed: if the cable is held by a bracket riveted to the body, drill rivets out carefully and remove bracket or loosen bolts.
- Extract old cable: pull the cable free from firewall grommet and from both ends; keep note of routing to match with new cable.
- Compare old vs new: lay new cable beside old to ensure same length, end fittings, and mounting bracket orientation.
- Install new cable through firewall and route identical to old one: feed new cable through grommet, seat grommet or install new grommet/bushing, route along same clips and brackets. Use zip ties temporarily to hold it in place.
- Attach cable to transmission lever: seat the ball/socket or cup over the transfer/transmission lever and secure with new clip/pin/bolt supplied. If bracket was riveted, reattach with rivet or bolt per manual.
- Attach cable to shifter: seat cable end into shifter socket/bushing and secure with new retaining clip/pin. Make sure any bushings are seated and not pinched.
- Lubricate moving parts: apply light grease or silicone lubricant to bushings and cable ends for smooth operation.
- Initial function check: with vehicle safely supported (still on stands), have someone move the shifter through all positions while you watch the transmission lever movement; confirm smooth, full travel and no binding.
- Adjust if necessary: some cables have an adjuster at one end to remove slack — follow manufacturer adjustment procedure so gear positions line up with shifter positions.
- Tighten bracket fasteners to spec and torque to manufacturer specs (use torque wrench). Replace any removed underbody shields.
- Reassemble console and shift boot: reinstall bezel, screws, shift knob, and any trim; reconnect battery.
- Road test: on level road, test shifting into all gears, confirm no slippage, no unusual noises, and parking pawl engages if automatic. Re-check fasteners after a short drive.

- Common tips and gotchas
- Photograph routing and connections before removal so you can exactly copy routing for the new cable.
- Replace small parts (clips, bushings, grommets) while you’re in there — they’re cheap and often corroded.
- If cable mount bolts/rivets are rusted and you must drill them out, plan how to reattach (rivets or bolts). You may need washers and locknuts if using bolts.
- If shifting feels sloppy after replacement, inspect shifter bushings and transmission lever socket; the cable alone may not be the root cause.
- Always test with vehicle elevated before lowering; easier to observe and adjust linkage.

- When to call a pro / when extra repairs are required
- If the cable is mounted to a heavily rusted bracket that requires cutting or welding, or if removing the bracket requires supporting the transmission, get a shop or experienced mechanic.
- If you find play in the transmission lever or internal transmission problems, this is beyond cable replacement and needs professional diagnosis.
- If fasteners are rounded, seized beyond your tools, or bolts break, professional tools (extractors) or a shop visit may be necessary.

- Quick checklist of parts to buy before starting
- Correct OEM or matched aftermarket shift cable for your Jeep Commer XH/XK
- New retaining clips / pins supplied with cable (or buy replacements)
- Firewall grommet / rubber bushing
- Console/shifter bushings if worn
- Small hardware kit (bolts, locknuts, washers) if drilling out rivets
- Zip ties, small tube of grease, penetrating oil

- Final safety reminder
- Double-check all fasteners, test shift operation safely before driving, and torque any bracket bolts to manufacturer specs. If unsure at any step, stop and consult a repair manual or a qualified mechanic.
rteeqp73

Cool or Crap: Does the HEMI V8 Turn the "Classic" Jeep Commander from Turd to Terrific... This video is brought to you by our friends at Gorilla Car Care, a premium detailing product at an affordable price, and your classic ...

Cool or Crap: Does the HEMI V8 Turn the "Classic" Jeep Commander from Turd to Terrific... This video is brought to you by our friends at Gorilla Car Care, a premium detailing product at an affordable price, and your classic ...

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