Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, 1/4" & 3/8" drive, common sockets (8–15 mm), extensions, common screwdrivers, pliers.
- Small torque wrench (0–50 Nm range).
- Timing light with inductive pickup (12 V power lead + clamp for #1 plug wire).
- Feeler gauge / dwell meter or digital timing/dwell tester (optional).
- Permanent marker or paint pen, masking tape & numbered wire labels.
- Clean rags, parts cleaner.
- Dielectric grease.
- Replacement parts (recommended): distributor cap, rotor, distributor O‑ring/seal (if used), cap screws, vacuum advance hose (if perished). If ignition pickup or module suspect, replacement unit.
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves.

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work in a well-ventilated area with parking brake on, vehicle in Park/Neutral and wheels chocked. Engine off and cool before removing cap.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when removing the distributor (prevents accidental cranking/shorts). Reconnect for timing checks only. Avoid live battery when reaching into engine.
- Use jack stands if vehicle raised. Keep hands and tools clear of belts/fans while engine running for timing.

Overview of procedure
1. Identify #1 cylinder top dead center (TDC) on compression stroke.
2. Mark rotor position and housing orientation.
3. Label and remove HT leads from cap one at a time.
4. Remove distributor cap and note rotor/weights/advance.
5. Remove distributor hold‑down and lift out distributor, noting gear mesh.
6. Replace parts/seal as needed.
7. Install distributor so rotor points to #1 TDC position; seat fully and secure.
8. Reconnect vacuum and electrical connectors, reconnect cap wires in proper firing order.
9. Start engine and set ignition timing with timing light; tighten hold‑down to torque spec.
10. Final checks and road test.

Step-by-step detail

A. Prepare & mark
1. Park, chock wheels, set parking brake, wear safety glasses.
2. Remove negative battery terminal.
3. Remove air cleaner as needed for access.
4. Turn engine by hand (socket on crank pulley bolt) until timing mark on crank pulley aligns with TDC mark on timing cover. Confirm you are on compression stroke for #1 by removing #1 plug and feeling for pressure or noting valve movement: rocker arms closed at TDC on compression. If unsure, rotate one full turn to verify compression return.
5. With engine at TDC, mark distributor housing to intake manifold or body with paint/marker where the mounting flange meets the block — this helps reinstall close to original position.

B. Label ignition wires & remove cap
6. Label each spark plug wire with its cylinder number using tape/marker (remove one wire at a time and label to avoid mixing).
7. Remove cap screws/clips and lift distributor cap straight off. If cap is held by coil/bracket connectors, disconnect them first. Inspect cap and rotor for cracks, corrosion, carbon tracks — replace if any.

C. Remove distributor
8. Note rotor alignment relative to #1 position; mark rotor index to housing with paint if needed.
9. Disconnect any electrical connectors from the distributor (ignition pick-up signal, vacuum advance hose).
10. Remove the distributor hold‑down bolt(s) and clamp. Keep parts organized.
11. Slowly lift distributor straight up and out. Note how the gear engages the cam/crank gear and the orientation of the rotor when removed — do not rotate the engine or distributor during removal.

D. Replace seals / parts (if required)
12. If distributor has an O‑ring or seal, replace it now. Clean mounting area; apply light engine oil to new O‑ring to help seat. Replace cap and rotor if worn. If the pickup module or vacuum advance is faulty, install replacement unit now.

E. Install distributor
13. Ensure engine is at TDC on compression for #1.
14. Rotate the distributor shaft so rotor lines up with the mark for #1 cylinder. Because of gear backlash the rotor may have to be positioned slightly off and then rotated into mesh as the distributor is seated — typical technique: rotate rotor slightly ahead of the intended position, drop distributor in while turning rotor slowly until it seats and the rotor points to the #1 mark.
15. Seat distributor fully; the rotor should point to the #1 position you marked earlier (or very close — you will fine tune with timing light).
16. Reinstall hold‑down clamp loosely (do not fully tighten yet). Reconnect electrical connector(s) and vacuum advance hose to original routing.

F. Reinstall cap & wires
17. Fit new/original distributor cap and secure. Reconnect spark plug wires in the correct firing order (confirm factory firing order for your engine; label wires if needed). Apply a small dab of dielectric grease in cap towers and on boot ends.

G. Set ignition timing
18. Reconnect negative battery cable.
19. Start engine and let it reach normal operating temperature. Disable any timing control (e.g., vacuum advance) by disconnecting the vacuum hose and plugging it or connecting to manifold as required by the spec — generally vacuum advance should be disconnected for base timing checks (refer to model spec).
20. Hook up timing light: inductive clamp on #1 spark plug wire, power leads to battery (red +, black -). Aim timing light at timing marks on crank pulley/timing cover while engine idles at specified RPM.
21. Loosen distributor hold‑down slightly so it can be rotated. Rotate distributor slowly until timing mark lines up with the specified degrees BTDC (factory spec). Typical Jeep engines are often around 6–12° BTDC but check service manual for exact spec.
22. Once correct, retighten distributor hold‑down to torque spec (use torque wrench; if you don’t have spec, tighten snugly but do not over-torque — about 10–15 Nm for many small clamps; check manual when possible).
23. Reconnect vacuum advance hose to original source, verify timing advance with vacuum applied if required. Recheck timing with vacuum connected (timing will usually show more advance under vacuum on systems that use it).

H. Finalize
24. Reinstall air cleaner and any removed components.
25. Road test, check idle, check for oil leaks at distributor base or vacuum hose leaks. Reinspect spark plug wire routing and secure.

How the timing light is used (concise)
- Connect inductive clamp on #1 plug wire (not on coil wire unless instructions say so).
- Connect timing light power to battery.
- Warm engine to operating temp, idle at specified RPM (may use fast idle if cold).
- Point strobe at timing marks; strobe will flash each time #1 fires, freezing the rotating crank mark. Rotate distributor until the crank mark aligns with the specified degree mark on the cover.
- Tighten hold‑down and recheck.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not marking rotor/ housing before removal: leads to wrong reinstallation — always mark.
- Installing on wrong TDC (exhaust stroke): engine will run badly or not at all — confirm compression on #1.
- Forgetting to label wires: miswiring causes backfires/damage — label wires one at a time.
- Not replacing worn cap/rotor or O‑ring: causes misfires and oil leaks — replace as preventive maintenance.
- Forcing the distributor gear: seating distributor incorrectly can damage drive gears — seat smoothly; rotate as needed to mesh.
- Over‑tightening hold‑down: can crack housing or strip threads — use proper torque.
- Timing without warming engine or with vacuum advance connected (if base timing spec requires it disconnected): wrong base timing — follow spec.
- Using timing light clamp on wrong wire: will show wrong mark — always use #1 plug.
- Forgetting to reconnect vacuum hoses or electrical connectors: leads to poor idle and drivability.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Distributor cap and rotor (easy wear items).
- Distributor O‑ring/seal (prevents oil leaks).
- Vacuum advance unit or hose (if leaking/old).
- Ignition pickup/module (if misfire codes or no-spark).
- Hold‑down hardware and cap screws.
- Spark plug wires if worn.

Notes / final tips
- Always consult the factory service manual for model-specific timing specs, torque values and firing order.
- If engine uses an electronically controlled ignition with fixed pickup inside distributor, be careful not to damage the pickup; replace with OEM part if faulty.
- Keep work area clean; avoid dropping tools or debris into the engine.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set + ratchet, extension
- Torx/Allen set (some models)
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (appropriate size for Jeep fuel lines)
- Fuel pressure gauge with adapter for Schrader-style port (or inline adapter)
- Hand vacuum pump / vacuum tester
- Torque wrench (if available)
- Pick / small screwdriver for O‑ring removal
- Clean rags, drip pan, absorbent pads
- Replacement fuel pressure regulator (OEM or equivalent) and new O‑rings/seals
- New fuel filter (recommended)
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher rated for gasoline fires

Safety first
- Work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area. No open flames, sparks, cigarettes.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Relieve the system pressure before disconnecting lines to avoid spray. Have rags/drip pan ready.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal after pressure is relieved.
- Catch and dispose of fuel properly; keep absorbents handy.

Overview
This covers diagnosis, removal and replacement of the fuel pressure regulator on Jeep XH/XK series vehicles (procedure applies to most return‑type regulators on the fuel rail). Always confirm the vehicle’s factory pressure specifications from the workshop manual.

Step‑by‑step

1) Preparation and relieve fuel pressure
- Locate the fuel pump fuse/relay in the fuse box. With the engine off, remove the fuel pump fuse/relay.
- Turn ignition to ON (do not crank) for ~3–5 seconds to let the pump prime and the ECU register—repeat once or twice until fuel pressure drops. Crank briefly if necessary to bleed residual pressure.
- Alternatively, use the Schrader valve on the fuel rail with a fuel pressure gauge attached and open the dump valve into a rag/drip pan (use a proper gauge with a bleed fitting).
- After pressure is relieved, disconnect negative battery terminal.

2) Access regulator
- Remove intake parts blocking access: airbox, engine cover, intake hose or throttle body brackets as required to reach the fuel rail/regulator.
- Clean area around regulator/rail with rags to keep dirt out of the fuel system.

3) Baseline test (before removal)
- Thread the fuel pressure gauge onto the Schrader port or attach inline adapter to the fuel feed.
- Reconnect battery (if needed for gauge reading) and turn key to ON. Note static fuel pressure. Record idle pressure.
- Attach a hand vacuum pump to the regulator vacuum nipple and apply vacuum. Correct regulator behavior: pressure should drop noticeably when vacuum is applied (vacuum pulls pressure down for idle enrichment). If pressure does not change or pressure is unstable, suspect faulty regulator.
- Check for fuel in the vacuum hose (fuel in the vacuum line = diaphragm rupture and regulator failure).

Note: Check factory spec for exact pressure numbers—typical multi‑port systems run in the 40–65 psi range depending on design.

4) Remove regulator
- With pressure relieved and battery disconnected, remove the vacuum hose from the regulator.
- Use the fuel line quick‑disconnect tool to separate the fuel rail fittings. Prepare rags and a small catch container — a small amount of fuel will spill.
- Remove mounting screw(s) securing the regulator to the fuel rail/intake.
- Carefully pull regulator straight out. Remove O‑ring(s) and inspect the mating bore for debris.

5) Inspect & replace parts
- Replace regulator with new unit and install new O‑ring(s). Always replace the O‑ring(s) and any crush washers/banjo washers used on the connections. Replace brittle vacuum hose if it shows signs of fuel or age.
- Consider replacing the fuel filter while you have fuel system service access.

6) Installation
- Lightly lubricate new O‑rings with clean engine oil or specified lubricant; install on regulator.
- Push the regulator into place, aligning it squarely. Install mounting fastener(s); tighten to spec (consult manual). If spec unavailable, snug and verify no binding—do not over‑torque O‑ring surfaces.
- Reconnect fuel lines until they click/seat. Reattach vacuum hose.
- Reinstall any intake components removed.

7) Re‑pressurize & test
- Reinstall fuel pump fuse/relay. Reconnect negative battery.
- Turn ignition to ON for a few seconds to prime the system, check for leaks at regulator and fuel lines.
- Start engine. Observe fuel pressure gauge at idle and with vacuum applied — pressure should match factory spec and should drop when vacuum is applied.
- Road test and inspect again for leaks.

How the tools are used (concise)
- Fuel pressure gauge: screws onto Schrader or inline adapter; gives static (key ON) and running pressure. Use bleed screw on gauge to relieve pressure safely.
- Hand vacuum pump: connects to regulator vacuum nipple; apply vacuum to observe regulator diaphragm response; watch gauge to see pressure fall/increase accordingly.
- Quick‑disconnect tool: slides into fuel line female coupler to release the retaining clip; push tool straight in, then pull the line apart while holding the tool in place.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not fully relieving pressure: leads to fuel spray. Always relieve and verify.
- Reusing old O‑rings: causes leaks — always replace O‑rings and crush washers.
- Dirt entering fuel rail: clean around regulator before removal; cover openings immediately.
- Damaging plastic quick‑disconnect fittings: use the correct size tool and pull straight.
- Over‑torquing the regulator or bolts: can crush O‑rings or crack fittings — follow torque specs or snug appropriately.
- Ignoring vacuum hose condition: a fuel‑soaked or cracked hose is a sure sign regulator failure; replace it.
- Not checking for fuel in vacuum line: immediate indicator of diaphragm failure.
- Incorrect pressure readings due to faulty gauge: use a known‑good gauge or double‑check with another unit.

Replacement parts typically required
- Fuel pressure regulator (OEM or equivalent)
- Regulator O‑rings/seals (always new)
- Fuel line quick‑disconnect seals/retainers if damaged
- Vacuum hose (if cracked or fuel‑soaked)
- Fuel filter (recommended while servicing)
- Crush washers/banjo washers (if banjo fitting present)

Final checks
- No leaks at idle or under load.
- Correct fuel pressure per factory spec with and without vacuum applied.
- No fuel odor or drips under the vehicle after a road test.

Done.
rteeqp73

Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (deep & shallow), extensions, swivel
- Torque wrench (range covering 10–200 Nm)
- Transmission jack or floor jack + suitable wood block
- Jack stands + wheel chocks
- Drain pan, funnel, clean rags, shop towels
- Seal puller (hook-type) and small chisel/pry
- Slide hammer with seal extractor attachment (optional but very useful)
- Bearing/seal driver set or properly sized sockets (for even installation)
- Rubber mallet / hammer
- Screwdrivers, pliers, snap-ring pliers
- Pick set
- Brake cleaner / solvent and lint-free rags
- Gear oil of correct spec & quantity (see workshop manual)
- New gearbox seal(s) (input/output/extension housing seals as required) — OEM or high-quality aftermarket
- New gearbox drain/fill plug crush washers (if applicable)
- Gasket or silicone sealant (RTV) if gearbox cover/gasket is disturbed
- Threadlocker (medium strength) where specified by manual
- Protective gloves, eye protection

Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll separate bellhousing or work near electrical.
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack to support/remove the gearbox. Gearboxes are heavy — get help when lifting.
- Wear eye protection when using solvents or hammering.

Overview of the job
- Identify which seal(s) must be replaced (input shaft seal, output shaft seal, extension housing/transfer case seals). Procedure below covers both “seal access without full gearbox removal” and “full gearbox drop/bench service” methods. Use the easier method if seals are accessible.

Step-by-step: external (no full gearbox drop) method — when seals are accessible in the vehicle
1. Prepare
- Park, chock, support vehicle, disconnect battery.
- Raise vehicle and safely support on stands to access underneath.
2. Drain gearbox oil
- Place drain pan under gearbox drain plug. Remove drain plug and drain fully. Replace drain plug temporarily.
3. Remove driveshaft/propshaft
- Unbolt and remove the driveshaft (or prop) from the output flange and bend aside. Support it so it won’t fall.
4. Gain access to the seal
- Remove any splash shields, crossmembers, or brackets blocking access to the gearbox output or input seal area.
- If replacing input seal and gearbox remains in vehicle, you may need to remove the starter and a small section of bellhousing cover or clutch inspection cover (vehicle-type dependent).
5. Remove the old seal
- Clean area with solvent so threads and lip are visible.
- Use seal puller or a small screwdriver/pick to grab the seal lip. Be careful not to gouge the gearbox housing sealing surface or score the shaft.
- If the seal is stubborn, use a slide hammer with extractor attachment or carefully cut and peel the seal out with picks.
6. Prepare shaft & housing
- Clean sealing surface on shaft and in housing. Remove burrs with very fine emery cloth if light; heavy damage requires shaft repair/replacement.
- Lightly oil the shaft with clean gearbox oil.
7. Install new seal
- Make sure the new seal is the correct one and oriented correctly (open lip faces the oil).
- Use a seal driver or a socket whose outer diameter matches the seal outer edge to push the seal squarely into the bore. Strike evenly and progressively with a mallet until the seal is seated to factory depth (flush or as specified).
- DO NOT hit the inner lip or use the shaft to drive the seal in. Do not deform the seal.
8. Reassemble
- Refit driveshaft, torque bolts to spec, reinstall any removed covers/brackets.
- Refill gearbox to the correct level and with correct fluid.
- Start engine/operate transmission through gears to circulate oil. Check for leaks.
9. Final check
- Lower vehicle, road test, re-check for leaks and fluid level.

Step-by-step: full gearbox drop & bench method — recommended when multiple seals/bearings are replaced or access is poor
1. Preparation & support
- As above: safe stands, battery negative disconnected. Support gearbox with transmission jack.
2. Remove external components
- Remove driveshafts, linkages, speedometer cable/sensor, wiring connectors, transfer case linkages, starter, exhaust parts or crossmembers as required to free gearbox.
3. Unbolt bellhousing & lower gearbox
- Support with transmission jack, unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts and gearbox mounting bracket(s). Carefully lower gearbox straight down and remove from vehicle.
4. Bench disassembly
- Clean exterior. Place gearbox on bench with support blocks.
- Remove extension housing/differential cover/clutch release components as required to access seals.
- Remove shafts or bearing retentions if necessary to access inner seals (follow manual for order of disassembly).
5. Remove old seals & inspect
- Extract seals with seal puller or slide hammer extractor.
- Inspect shaft journals, bearing races, snap rings, and bores for wear or scoring. Replace any worn shafts/bearings.
6. Install new seals on bench
- Clean sealing bores. Lube lip with clean oil.
- Use seal driver or matched socket to press seals squarely into bores to specified depth.
- If bearing was removed to access seal, reassemble bearing and check endplay and runout to spec.
7. Reassemble gearbox
- Replace any gaskets or use RTV where specified.
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs (consult workshop manual).
8. Refit gearbox to vehicle
- Reverse removal: raise gearbox with transmission jack into position, align bellhousing to dowels, torque bolts, reconnect linkages, driveshafts, sensors, fill fluid.
9. Test & check leaks
- As above: run and road test.

How to use the specific tools correctly
- Seal puller: hook the lip and pull, prying gently around circumference. Avoid gouging the bore — use thin picks to get under lip if needed.
- Slide hammer/extractor: attach extractor to a sealed recess or use a hooked adapter. Use controlled pulls — sudden jerk can damage internal components.
- Seal driver/sockets: choose a driver/socket that contacts the entire outer edge of the seal (or at least a broad evenly distributed ring). Tap evenly with a mallet. Rotate driver between light taps to keep seal square.
- Torque wrench: use for re-tightening gearbox-to-engine bolts, mount bolts, driveshaft flange bolts. Set to spec and tighten in a crossing pattern where appropriate.
- Cleaners/solvent: spray and wipe; avoid getting solvent into bearings or seal faces repeatedly. Use fresh rags.

Replacement parts & consumables commonly required
- Correct OEM or quality aftermarket gearbox seals (input, output, extension) — part numbers vary by exact Jeep model/transmission type.
- Gearbox oil to manufacturer specification and quantity.
- New crush washers for drain/fill plugs if used.
- Gasket or RTV for cover/mating surfaces if removed.
- Possibly new bearings, shaft seals, snap rings if worn.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Driving seal in crooked: use correct-sized driver and tap evenly. Driving crooked will leak immediately.
- Damaging the shaft journal: inspect and polish lightly; replace if deeply scored. Installing a new seal on a scored shaft will fail.
- Reusing old seal or wrong seal orientation: new seals only; open lip faces oil.
- Using excessive force: don’t hammer on inner lip or use the shaft as an installer.
- Not cleaning surfaces: contamination causes leaks; clean thoroughly before install.
- Forgetting to replace or properly torque drain/fill plugs: leads to leaks.
- Overfilling or underfilling gearbox: follow manual levels and check after run-in.
- Not replacing associated wear items: a leaking seal often means seal has been running on a scored shaft or worn bearing — ignore and the new seal will fail.
- Using wrong fluid: reduced life and poor shift/engagement, potential leaks.

Notes & quick checks after job
- Check for leaks after a short test drive and after 24 hours.
- Re-torque flange and mount bolts after initial run if recommended by manual.
- If leak persists, check for shaft wear, incorrect seal depth, or the possibility that the leak is coming from a different component (e.g., output flange gasket).

Final reminders
- Consult the factory workshop manual for exact seal part numbers, seal installation depth, bolt torque specs, disassembly order and any special procedures for your specific Jeep gearbox variant. If you don’t have the manual, obtain a model/year-specific copy or factory procedure — torque and sequence matter.

Done.
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