Tools & PPE
- Basic socket set (3/8" & 1/2" drive), common metric/SAE sockets and wrenches (10–19mm common).
- Long pry bar or large screwdriver (for moving alternator if no spring tensioner).
- Breaker bar / ratchet.
- Torque wrench (recommended for final tightening).
- Belt tension gauge (if available) or a 1/2"–3/4" deflection rule (see below).
- Needle‑nose pliers, screwdriver.
- Gloves, safety glasses.
- Wheel chocks; small jack and stands only if you need to get under tractor (most work is top-side).

Replacement parts
- Correct replacement belt (OEM/aftermarket). Verify by part number from a parts supplier or measure old belt length and width/number of ribs. MF135/MF150/MF165 commonly use a single V-type drive belt for crank → water pump/fan → alternator (confirm with parts manual for your exact serial/model).
- Replace idler/tensioner pulley(s) or alternator pivot hardware if bearings are noisy or pulleys are grooved/worn.
- Optional: replacement alternator/water‑pump seals if leaking.

Safety precautions (read before starting)
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels. Engine cold. Key out and remove ignition key.
- Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent accidental starts and electrical shorts.
- Keep hands and tools clear of fan blades. If you must spin pulley, be careful.
- Do not use excessive force on alternator housing; pry at approved mounting points.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Visual check and routing
- Locate the belt and trace its routing. If no routing sticker, sketch or photograph it before removal. Typical routing: crank pulley → water pump/fan → alternator (and possibly an air compressor/hydraulic pump on some variants).
2. Inspect current belt and components
- Look for cracks, glazing, missing ribs, or oil contamination. Spin alternator and water‑pump by hand to check for bearing noise/play. Inspect pulleys for grooves, corrosion or misalignment.
3. Disconnect battery negative cable
- Prevents accidental starting and sparks during work.
4. Relieve belt tension
- If the tractor uses an adjustable alternator: loosen the alternator pivot bolt (do not remove), then loosen the adjusting bolt/nut and use a pry bar behind the alternator to move it toward the engine to relax the belt.
- If an external spring tensioner is fitted: use the appropriate socket or tensioner tool to rotate the tensioner and hold it to release belt tension.
- Note: don’t pry on thin sheet metal—apply force to the alternator cast housing or a designated lever point.
5. Remove old belt
- Slide belt off pulleys and remove. Compare it to the new belt to ensure same profile/width and approximate length/rib count.
6. Inspect and/or replace pulleys/tensioner
- Spin each idler/pulley: any roughness, wobble or play → replace. Clean pulley grooves with a wire brush or emery cloth if glazed.
7. Fit new belt
- Route the new belt around all pulleys per your sketch, leaving the crank or largest pulley for last so you can lever the alternator to get it on.
- Ensure the belt seats into pulley grooves properly (V‑belt into V grooves; ribbed belt ribs aligned with grooves).
8. Tension the belt
- Move alternator/tensioner back to apply tension. If using an adjusting bolt, tighten it while holding the alternator in place.
- Proper tension rule of thumb:
- For V‑belts on tractors, aim for about 1/2" (12 mm) deflection at the midpoint of the longest span with moderate thumb pressure (~10–15 lbf). If you have a belt tension gauge, set to the manufacturer’s spec.
- Do not over‑tighten — excessive tension kills bearings (alternator, water pump, crankshaft).
9. Tighten and torque mounting hardware
- Tighten the alternator pivot and adjuster bolts securely. If available, use torque values from the service manual; otherwise tighten snugly and check alignment and movement.
10. Reconnect battery and test
- Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start engine, observe belt tracking, listen for squeal, vibration, or wobble. With engine running briefly at low idle, watch belt alignment and pulleys for wobble.
- Turn engine off and re‑check tension and bolt tightness after a short run (thermal expansion can change snugness).
11. Final checks
- Inspect for coolant or oil contamination on the belt (fix leaks if present). Dispose of old belt properly.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Wrong belt: don’t assume length — match ribs/profile and length; wrong belt will slip or wear prematurely.
- Over‑tensioning: tight belts cause premature bearing failure on alternator/water pump/crank.
- Under‑tensioning: causes slipping, squeal, and poor charging.
- Improper routing: wrong routing can engage wrong accessory or jam fan; always sketch/photo routing first.
- Prying in wrong spot: prying on thin sheet metal can bend brackets; use pivot points or official lever points.
- Not replacing worn pulleys/tensioner: a new belt on a bad pulley will fail quickly.
- Working with engine hot or not disconnecting battery: risk burns or accidental start.

Notes on tool use
- Pry bar: place behind alternator housing/pivot area and apply steady force to relieve tension; don’t jam against fan blades or thin brackets.
- Breaker bar/ratchet: useful for loosening tight pivot bolts. Use penetrating oil if bolts are seized.
- Belt tension gauge: place on belt midpoint while applying recommended force/deflection method per tool instructions; it reduces guesswork.
- Torque wrench: use to final‑torque pivot/adjuster bolts to the manual spec if available.

If you follow these steps and verify pulley condition and belt size before purchase, replacement is straightforward.
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Quick upfront: on MF 135 / 150 / 165 tractors you will encounter two different systems depending on engine type — a petrol model uses a carburetor/throttle body and a throttle plate; a diesel model uses a mechanical fuel injection pump with a governor and a rack/lever linkage (no throttle plate). Below I cover both, identify every part you’ll meet, explain how it works and why you might need to repair/adjust it, then give step‑by‑step procedures for inspecting, cleaning, repairing and correctly setting the throttle linkage/“throttle body” area. Read the safety notes and warnings first and follow them exactly.

Safety first
- Work with engine OFF and key removed unless instructed to run the engine for a test.
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, wheels chocked.
- Keep loose clothing/hair away from moving parts when you run the engine for testing.
- Never disable the governor or remove the maximum stop to obtain higher speed — overspeed is dangerous and can destroy the engine or injure people.
- If you’re unsure about adjusting governor springs or max speed stops, consult the service manual or a qualified tech.

How the systems work (plain language + analogies)
- Petrol (carburetor) model: the throttle plate in the carburetor controls the air flowing into the engine. The throttle lever/cable turns a shaft that rotates the throttle plate — more open = more air + more fuel from carb = more engine speed. Think of it like the butterfly inside a vent: tilt it more and more air flows.
- Diesel (mechanical pump) model: there’s no throttle plate. Instead the hand/foot throttle controls the fuel delivery inside the mechanical injection pump via a rack/lever and a governor. The governor senses engine speed and moves the pump mechanism to keep engine speed steady when load changes. Think of the governor and pump as a mechanical cruise control: the throttle sets the desired speed, the governor adjusts fuel amount to maintain it.
- Linkage, return spring and stops make sure the throttle responds correctly and returns to idle when released. If any pivot is sticky, a pin is worn, springs are weak or stops are misadjusted the throttle will be slow, stick, surge, creep, or not reach full power.

Major components you will encounter (descriptions)
- Throttle lever (dash or hand lever): the control you move to set speed.
- Throttle pedal (if fitted): floor pedal on models with foot throttle.
- Throttle cable/rod: mechanical linkage transmitting movement to carb or pump (a rod with clevis, or a cable).
- Clevis and clevis pin: U-shaped connector and pin that links rods to levers.
- Ball joint or heim joint: swiveling joint on some linkages allowing articulation.
- Return spring: pulls the throttle back to idle; usually small but essential.
- Throttle stop screws: set minimum (idle) and maximum (top speed) positions.
- Throttle shaft (carb): the shaft the throttle plate pivots on; runs in bushings.
- Throttle plate (carb): the butterfly that meters air.
- Carburetor body and gasket (petrol): holds the throttle plate and jets.
- Injection pump (diesel): fuel pump with rack/arm that meters fuel to injectors. The rack moves in/out to change fuel quantity.
- Governor arm / governor: mechanical device on pump that controls rack movement based on engine speed.
- Rack pin/lever and rack stop: the mechanical interface from linkage to pump rack.
- Max speed stop/adjuster: screw that limits how far the linkage can open the pump rack (prevents overspeed).
- Bushings and pivot pins: wear items that allow smooth movement.

Why this repair is needed (symptoms and causes)
Symptoms that indicate throttle linkage/throttle body work is needed:
- Sticky or slow throttle movement.
- Engine surging (rpm hunting) under load or at idle.
- Throttle not returning to idle (engine creeps).
- Poor acceleration or no change in rpm when throttle moved.
- Excessive smoke or very high/low fuel consumption.
- Excessive play or slop in pedal/lever travel.

Common causes:
- Seized or corroded pivots/bushings.
- Worn clevis pins, elongated holes or play in joints.
- Broken or weak return spring.
- Seized or gummed-up throttle shaft (carb).
- Sticking injection pump rack (dirt, varnish) or gummed governor parts.
- Misadjusted idle stop or max stop.
- Broken or stretched throttle cable/rod.
- Vacuum or intake leaks (petrol) causing unstable idle.

Tools and materials you’ll typically need
- Basic metric spanners and sockets, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Penetrating oil (WD‑40 or equivalent), gear oil or light lubricating oil, grease.
- Carburetor/throttle body cleaner (for petrol models).
- Small wire brush, shop rags, toothbrush.
- Replacement clevis pins, retaining cotter pins, bushings, throttle cable or spring (if required).
- Replacement gaskets for carburetor (if you remove carb).
- Digital tachometer (helpful for accurate idle setting).
- Service manual or spec sheet for RPM targets and exact linkage diagrams (recommended).

Step-by-step: inspect and diagnose (beginner level)
1. Visual inspection:
- Follow the throttle lever/pedal back to the engine. Identify cable or rod path, clevis pins, springs and connections.
- Look for broken springs, rusted joints, cracked rubber boots, loose nuts or missing cotter pins.
2. Free movement test:
- With the engine OFF, move the throttle lever/pedal through full travel. Observe movement at the pump or carb throttle shaft. It should move smoothly and return cleanly with the return spring. Any catching, sticking, or delay indicates a problem.
3. Check for play:
- Wiggle joints, lever arms and shaft ends. Excessive play (looseness) means worn bushings/pins.
4. Check stops:
- Identify the idle stop screw and the max stop (there is usually a screw or bracket that limits travel). Note their positions before changing anything — you may want to mark them.

If all external linkage moves cleanly but engine still surges or stalls, suspect internal pump rack binding (diesel) or dirty jets/intake leaks (petrol).

General repairs and cleaning (linkage)
1. Remove and clean:
- Remove clevis pins / cotter pins and separate linkages. Soak pivot areas with penetrating oil. Use wire brush to clean rust and gunk.
2. Replace worn parts:
- Replace badly worn clevis pins, bushings or cable. Always use proper cotter pins or retaining clips.
3. Lubricate pivots:
- After cleaning, apply light grease to pivot points and moving shafts, or a few drops of light oil to ball joints. Do not oil throttle plate shaft excessively on carb — a little lubrication in bushings is fine but avoid oil getting into the carb bore or jets.
4. Replace broken springs:
- Replace any weak/broken return spring. This is often the cause of throttle not returning to idle.

Carburetor / throttle-body cleaning (petrol models)
1. Access:
- Remove air cleaner assembly. Loosen carb mounting bolts and expose the throttle body/throttle shaft.
2. Check throttle shaft play:
- Move the throttle plate. If the shaft has lateral play or the plate binds, the shaft bushings may be worn and need replacing.
3. Clean:
- Use throttle body or carb cleaner to remove gum from the throttle plate, bore and shaft. Wipe clean with rags. Don't spray cleaner into the float bowl jets excessively — follow cleaner instructions.
4. Reassemble with new gasket if removed.
5. Adjust idle mixture and idle speed using manual specs (if needed).

Injection pump linkage work (diesel models) — detailed
Important: the injection pump is precision equipment. Do not disassemble the pump internals unless you’re qualified. You can, however, work the external linkage safely.
1. Identify components:
- Throttle lever → rod → clevis → pump lever → rack.
- Governor arm usually connected to the governor on the pump housing.
- Max stop screw on pump linkage or bracket.
2. Observe rack movement:
- Have an assistant (or carefully with the engine off) move the throttle lever and watch the pump rack or lever move smoothly from idle to full travel. If it sticks or moves with jerkiness, you may have a binding rack or seized pivot.
3. Free the linkage:
- Clean and lubricate the external rack lever pivot and clevis. Use penetrating oil on any seized pins; if the rack lever itself is stiff, gentle penetrating oil applied around the boot and pivot may free it.
4. Adjust idle stop:
- There’s an idle stop screw that prevents the rack from pushing fuel at idle. Turn the idle stop to set the minimum fuel and get the proper idle RPM (consult manual range — many older diesel tractors idle 650–900 rpm depending on engine). Use a tachometer for accuracy. To adjust:
a. Warm engine to running temperature.
b. With hand throttle at idle, adjust the idle stop screw on pump linkage until desired idle RPM is reached.
c. Verify the throttle returns cleanly to idle and engine does not creep.
5. Adjust max stop (governor max travel):
- The max stop sets the maximum allowed pump rack travel and therefore max engine speed. This is usually set with a stop screw on the throttle bracket or the pump rack housing.
- Do not exceed manufacturer maximum RPM. If you need to adjust due to loose nuts or play, do so carefully and recheck max rpm with tachometer. If engine reaches an overspeed, stop and reset immediately.
6. Governor issues:
- If the governor does not hold speed (surging) or won’t let engine return to idle, the governor unit or internal pump elements may need overhaul by a diesel fuel specialist.

Specific adjustments for a stuck throttle or slow response
- If throttle sticks open: find and replace return spring, clean and lube all pivots, check throttle cable for inner wire snagging in sheath — replace cable if needed. Ensure throttle shaft in carb is not corroded.
- If throttle has deadband or too much play: remove chain of linkages and measure free travel. Adjust clevis position or replace stretched rod/cable. Tighten brackets but allow smooth free movement.
- If engine surges when load applied: check governor linkages, ensure no air leak on petrol models (intake manifold, gasket), ensure pump rack moves freely, verify governor spring is correct and not weak.

Testing after repair
1. Static test with engine off:
- Move the throttle through full travel and watch movement on the pump/carb. It should move smoothly with no stiction and return immediately when released.
2. Warm engine and run:
- Start engine, warm to operating temp. Check idle RPM and adjust idle stop as above. Check full throttle on hand and foot throttle — smooth acceleration with no sticking.
3. Load test:
- Put tractor under a small load (raise front loader slightly, or put PTO on small implement) and check that engine does not surge or lug excessively. If it hunts under load, revisit governor/pump linkage or consult a diesel specialist.
4. Final safety check:
- Ensure cotter pins are installed, clamps tightened, and there’s no potential for the throttle to jam on adjacent parts.

Common things that go wrong and how to spot them
- Sticky throttle shaft (carb): throttle opens slowly/sticks; fix by cleaning and replacing bushings if worn.
- Seized inner cable: throttle doesn’t move even when outer housing moves; replace cable.
- Weak/broken return spring: throttle won’t snap back -> replace spring.
- Worn clevis pin or elongated hole: slop and delayed response -> replace pins/bushings.
- Binding pump rack (diesel) or sticking governor: surging, unstable idle -> clean/linkage or send pump for specialist overhaul.
- Misadjusted stops: too high idle or overspeed risk -> reset to factory spec.
- Air leaks (petrol): rough idle and surging -> check intake gaskets and manifold.

When to call a pro
- If the pump rack itself is sticky inside the pump or the governor internal components feel suspect — these require a fuel injection specialist.
- If you must change governor spring tension or perform internal timing work on the injection pump — these are precision jobs.
- If unsure about safe maximum RPM settings.

Quick troubleshooting flow (fast)
- No throttle response: check cable/rod break → replace.
- Sticking/throttle slow: clean pivots, lube, replace spring/cable.
- Idle too high/low: adjust idle stop screw; verify tachometer reading.
- Engine surges: check governor linkage, pump rack movement, intake leaks (petrol), or consult diesel pump shop.

Final tips (good practice)
- Always replace cotter pins and worn hardware with new pieces.
- Keep linkage clean and lightly lubricated; dirt and rust are the enemy.
- Mark original stop positions before you change them so you can go back.
- Use a tachometer for accurate idle and max speed checking.
- Take pictures before you disassemble linkages to make reassembly straightforward.

That is the complete beginner‑level guide to diagnosing, cleaning, repairing and adjusting the throttle linkage and throttle body area on MF135 / MF150 / MF165 tractors. If you have the specific engine type (petrol vs diesel) you can apply the petrol carb steps or the diesel pump steps above — do not attempt to disassemble the injection pump internals unless you are qualified.
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