Goal (brief): remove old, contaminated transmission fluid and replace it with correct new fluid so hydraulic pressures, friction characteristics and cooling are restored. That fixes faults caused by oxidized fluid, varnish, clutch-pack glazing, clogged screens/solenoids, and abrasive metal debris that cause slipping, hard/late shifts, overheating and accelerated wear.

Before you start (tools + essentials, very short)
- Correct Mazda transmission fluid spec and quantity (consult service manual).
- Filter kit and pan gasket (automatic). Gear oil and drain plug crush washer (manual).
- Catch pan, funnel, rags, gloves, jack stands, basic hand tools, torque wrench.
- Optional: pressure-flush machine or hoses for cooler-line flush. Disposal container.

Procedure — Automatic transmission (ordered steps with theory + how it fixes the fault)

1) Warm the transmission to operating temperature (short drive, 10–15 min).
- Theory: warm fluid thins and carries suspended contaminants; valve body passages open to operating clearances.
- How it helps: warming makes draining/flushing remove more of the fluid and deposits.

2) Secure vehicle on level ground, engage parking brake, lift and support with jack stands if needed.
- Theory: level is required for accurate fill level checks; safety essential.
- How it helps: prevents incorrect fluid level and ensures safe access.

3) Locate pan, drain plug and cooler lines; place catch pan under pan.
- Theory: pan contains bulk fluid and settled debris/magnet return; cooler lines contain fluid in cooler and torque converter.
- How it helps: planning gives controlled fluid removal without spills.

4) Drain pan (if there's a drain plug) or loosen pan bolts to allow controlled drain; remove pan and inspect magnets for metal debris; capture old fluid.
- Theory: pan holds ~30–50% of fluid and most heavy particulates settle onto magnets or pan.
- How it helps: removes bulk contaminated fluid and metal filings so they aren’t returned to the circuit.

5) Remove and replace the transmission filter (automatic) and clean mating surfaces; replace pan gasket.
- Theory: the filter traps particulate and clutch debris; replacing it restores correct hydraulic flow and pressure.
- How it helps: a new filter prevents recontamination and restores proper pressure/flow to valve body and clutch packs.

6) Reinstall pan, torque bolts to spec, refill from dipstick/tube with correct fluid to approximate level (use manual’s cold or warm fill procedure).
- Theory: a drain-and-fill replaces only a portion of total fluid; refill restores usable fluid and friction modifiers.
- How it helps: immediately restores some hydraulic function and cooling; reduces slip caused by degraded fluid.

7) (Optional but recommended for a true “flush”) Perform torque-converter/cooler-line flush:
- Method A, pressure-flush machine: attach machine to cooler lines per machine manual and run until expelled fluid runs clear. Caution: use low-pressure, manufacturer-recommended method to avoid dislodging large debris into valve body.
- Method B, manual cooler-line flush: with engine idling and vehicle secure, disconnect the cooler return line at radiator (or transmission cooler) and run engine while adding new fluid into the dipstick tube; old fluid pumps out through the cooler line into your catch container. Continue until fluid runs clear and volume exchanged approximates converter capacity (several liters).
- Theory: torque converter and cooler circuits hold most of total capacity; simple pan drain cannot remove this fluid. Flushing exchanges fluid throughout hydraulic circuit.
- How it helps: replaces nearly all old fluid, restoring lubrication, cooling and correct friction characteristics to clutches and bands; removes varnish and solenoid-clogging residue from circuits.

8) Reconnect cooler line(s), refill to correct level with engine idling and selector cycling through gears per manual, then check level at operating temperature and add if needed.
- Theory: running pump and cycling charges all circuits and seats clutches; fluid level changes with temperature and gear selection.
- How it helps: ensures correct air-free fluid level so hydraulic circuits maintain designed pressures and shifts are accurate.

9) Test drive, monitor shift quality and temperature; recheck level and check for leaks after warmup and a short drive.
- Theory: under load shifts behavior and temperature will reveal unresolved issues.
- How it helps: confirms the flush restored normal operation; re-topping corrects any drawn-down level after seating.

10) Dispose of old fluid properly and record service (date, km).

Procedure — Manual gearbox (if applicable) (ordered steps + short theory)
1) Warm gearbox (short drive).
2) Support vehicle, remove drain plug and fully drain old gear oil; inspect for metal flakes.
3) Replace crush washer and reinstall drain plug to torque spec.
4) Remove fill plug and refill with correct gear oil to fill level.
5) Test drive and recheck for leaks.
Theory: manual gearboxes rely on correct viscosity and additives for gear protection and synchro operation. Changing fluid removes contaminated/oxidized oil and abrasive particles that cause gear wear, noise and poor synchro engagement.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary, concise)
- Removes oxidized/vitrified fluid that has lost lubricity and friction properties, restoring correct clutch friction and hydraulic pressures.
- Eliminates abrasive metal particles and deposits that score clutch plates, bands, valve bodies and gears.
- Replaces degraded hydraulic fluid that can cause solenoids/valves to stick from varnish/build-up, restoring proper hydraulic control and shift timing.
- Restores cooling capacity: fresh fluid transfers heat away from clutches and torque converter better, preventing overheating and further degradation.

Key cautions (short)
- Use correct Mazda fluid spec — wrong friction modifiers or viscosity can cause slipping or harsh shifts.
- If heavy metal debris is present or very dark/burnt smell, flushing may be only temporary; internal damage may require rebuild.
- Be cautious with high-pressure commercial flush machines — they can force debris into sensitive passages or damage old components.
- Don’t overfill or underfill; check level per manual at the specified temperature and gear position.

That’s the ordered how-and-why.
rteeqp73

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