Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (8–24 mm), extensions, universal.
- Torque wrench (range to 200 Nm).
- Breaker bar, impact wrench (optional).
- Seal driver set / correctly sized socket or brass drift + hammer.
- Flat-blade screwdriver, pick, cold chisel.
- Gearbox seal puller / hook puller / small slide hammer.
- Pry bars, rubber mallet.
- Transmission jack or floor jack + wooden blocks and axle stands.
- Jack stands (2–4) and wheel chocks.
- Drain pan, funnels, clean rags.
- Shop gloves, safety glasses.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, lint‑free rags.
- New gearbox oil (correct grade), new oil drain washer if applicable.
- Replacement seal(s) — OEM part numbers or equivalent (input shaft, output/tailshaft as required).
- Threadlocker (medium), gasket sealant if specified.
- Punch, snap‑ring pliers (if removing shafts or bearing circlips).
- Optional: axle puller, hub holding tool, heat gun.

Safety first
- Work on level ground, engine cold. Chock wheels, engage park/handbrake.
- Support vehicle on properly rated jackstands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves. Keep bystanders clear.
- Drain fluids carefully; dispose of oil according to local regulations.
- If removing the gearbox, support with a transmission jack and secure any harnesses/lines to avoid overstretching.

Overview of procedure
This covers two common situations on the D22-series gearbox:
A) Replacing an accessible output/tailshaft seal (can often be done with gearbox in vehicle).
B) Replacing an input or rear tailshaft seal that requires partial or full gearbox removal.

A. Output/tailshaft seal replacement (gearbox in vehicle)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, raise vehicle and support on stands. Remove driveshaft/prop shaft or halfshaft that is driven by the seal you’re replacing (rear output = prop/drive shaft; front = CV/halfshaft). Disconnect battery negative if working near electrics.

2) Drain gearbox oil
- Place drain pan under gearbox, remove drain plug, drain oil. Remove fill plug to speed drain.

3) Remove driveshaft/propeller shaft
- Mark driveshaft flange orientation to maintain balance.
- Remove retaining bolts (use impact or breaker if tight). Support flange and slide shaft out. For CV halfshafts, remove hub nut, disconnect ball joints/knuckle as needed and ease shaft out of gearbox.

4) Expose the seal
- Clean area. If necessary, remove dust covers or retaining circlips. For tailshaft seals there’s usually a lip on the flange exposed when shaft removed.

5) Remove old seal
- Use a seal puller or small chisel/pick to hook under the edge and pry the seal out evenly. Take care not to score the bore or shaft. Rotate and pry opposite sides to work it free.

6) Prep & fit new seal
- Clean bore thoroughly with solvent and inspect for pitting or scoring. Lightly oil the inner lip of the new seal with clean gearbox oil.
- Use a seal driver or socket that matches the outer diameter of the seal and press it in squarely. Tap evenly around the face with a hammer until seal is flush with housing (or to specified depth). Do not drive on the inner lip.

7) Reinstall driveshaft/prop
- Refit shaft aligning marks. Replace any crush washers or bolts. Torque bolts to spec. If a hub nut was removed, torque to manufacturer spec and replace cotter pins if used.

8) Refill gearbox
- Reinstall drain plug (with new washer if required) and refill gearbox to correct level and grade via fill plug. Run vehicle and check for leaks.

B. Input or rear tailshaft seal replacement requiring gearbox removal
1) Preparation & removal of ancillary items
- Disconnect battery negative. Remove center console/transfer linkage as needed. Support engine with engine support bar if removing bellhousing bolts and gearbox will drop significantly.
- Remove starter motor, exhaust cross‑pipe if it obstructs, drive shafts, shifters, linkage, speedo cable/sensor, wiring connectors, and any hydraulic lines (mark/plug them).

2) Support gearbox & unbolt
- Place transmission jack under gearbox, support securely with straps.
- Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts, transfer case bolts if applicable. Lower gearbox slightly to access rear seal area.

3) Remove tailshaft or input shaft components
- Depending on model, remove tailshaft output flange, snap rings, or bearing retainer to expose the seal. Use snap‑ring pliers or puller as required.

4) Remove old seal and inspect
- Use seal puller; inspect shaft for wear. If the shaft journal is scored/pitted, replace or polish/replace gearbox parts — a new seal will not fix a damaged shaft.

5) Install new seal while gearbox supported
- Clean bore, lubricate seal lip, press new seal squarely into housing using driver or socket. Ensure correct orientation (lip toward oil).

6) Reassemble and reinstall gearbox
- Refit any bearings/retainers, reattach gearbox to engine, torque all bolts to spec, reconnect linkages, lines, sensors, and driveshafts. Refill gearbox with correct oil.

How each tool is used (important details)
- Seal puller / hook: Get under the outer edge of the old seal and pull evenly while rotating the tool to avoid damaging the bore.
- Seal driver / socket: Choose one with outer diameter matching the seal outer diameter; place over seal face and tap evenly with a hammer to seat. A plastic/rubber faced mallet reduces risk of damage.
- Torque wrench: Use for all reassembly bolts (bellhousing, flange bolts, hub nut). Set to the specified Nm and tighten in manufacturer sequence.
- Transmission jack: Center the gearbox on the jack plate, secure with straps. Use slowly to lower/raise gearbox straight to avoid wiring/line damage.
- Snap‑ring pliers/pullers: Remove circlips cleanly to free flanges; do not spread or distort rings.

Parts required (typical)
- Correct OEM gearbox oil seal(s) — specify engine/gearbox code when ordering (input shaft seal, output/tailshaft seal).
- Gear oil (grade/quantity per service manual).
- Drain plug washer/crush washer (replace).
- Possibly hub nut, flange bolts, and any O‑rings removed — replace if damaged.
- Optional: bearing or shaft replacement if journal is worn.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Driving seal by the inner lip — always use a driver that bears on the outer case edge.
- Reusing a damaged seal — always install new seals; old seals will leak.
- Not cleaning the bore/shaft — debris causes leaks. Clean and degrease before fitting.
- Mounting seal reversed — lip faces oil side. If installed backward it will leak immediately.
- Damaging shaft journal — inspect; if scored, replace or polish to be smooth before fitting new seal.
- Not replacing drain washer or refilling oil — leads to leaks/low oil. Torque drain plug properly.
- Reusing stretched bolts/hub nuts — always replace torque-to-yield or damaged fasteners.
- Not supporting gearbox/engine properly — may cause injury or misalignment; use a transmission jack and engine support.

Post-repair checks
- Torque all fasteners to spec. Refill gearbox to correct level. Run engine, cycle gears, inspect for leaks around new seal at idle and under light movement. Road test and recheck torque and fluid level after short drive.

Notes
- Exact seal location, removal sequence, and torque figures vary by year/engine/transfer-case model. Use the Nissan D22 service manual for model‑specific diagrams and torque specs.
- If seal repeatedly fails, check runout, bearing play, and shaft wear — replace bearings or shafts as needed.

Done.
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