1) Brief theory — what the shift forks do and how they fail
- Function: each fork rides on a selector rail and pushes a sliding collar (synchronizer hub/collar) laterally to lock a gear to a shaft using dog teeth or synchro teeth. Accurate lateral position and axial stiffness are required for positive engagement.
- Failure modes: fork wear at the contact pads or toe allows excessive lateral/freeplay; forks can bend, crack or lose boss fit; selector rail or retaining pins can wear. Result: hard shifts, grinding, missed shifts, false neutrals, gear pop-out.
- How replacement fixes it: replacing a worn/bent fork restores correct contact geometry and axial control of the collar so dog/synchro teeth fully engage, eliminating play and preventing misalignment that causes grinding or disengagement.

2) Diagnose and confirm
- Confirm symptoms (hard shift, grinding, false neutral, gear pop-out) and localize to selector mechanism vs. clutch/driveline. Rule out clutch slip, linkage misadjustment, or damaged synchromesh.
- Inspect external linkage and shifter for excessive play before opening the gearbox. If internal, plan for gearbox removal/disassembly.

3) Preparations and safety
- Gather factory service manual, new fork(s), associated selector rail(s), retaining pins/bolts, seals, oil, and common wear items (synchros, hub/sleeves) as backup.
- Work safely: vehicle on stands, battery disconnected, appropriate PPE.
- Tools: engine/transmission jack, press, snap-ring pliers, torque wrench, feeler gauges, dial indicator if checking endplay.

4) Remove gearbox from vehicle (ordered steps, brief)
- Drain gearbox oil.
- Remove driveshafts/halfshafts or propshaft (depending on model) to separate from output flanges.
- Disconnect shift linkage at shifter, remove shifter assembly or linkage from gearbox top.
- Disconnect clutch slave/throwout linkage and electrical connectors.
- Support gearbox with jack, remove crossmember and bellhousing bolts, separate gearbox from engine and lower carefully.
Theory: removing gearbox gives full access to selector mechanism and bearings; it avoids trying limited in-situ repairs that compromise alignment.

5) Strip gearbox to access selector forks (ordered)
- Secure gearbox on a bench mount/tranny jack.
- Remove external covers (top cover/selector housing), noting orientation of selector levers and springs.
- Remove main cover to expose mainshaft/laygear cluster if required by NSG370 layout.
- Unbolt selector rail retaining plates/pins and slide rails out, taking care to note order and orientation of forks, spacers, collars.
- Remove sliding collars and associated springs/keys to free forks.
Theory: selector rails and forks are normally retained by plates/pins; careful ordering preserves reassembly indexing and prevents damage to dog teeth and synchro components.

6) Inspect components and decide replacement scope
- Inspect forks for wear (pad thickness, toe rounding, bend/cracks), boss wear where fork slides on rail, and mating face where it contacts the collar/dog.
- Check selector rail straightness and bore wear (ovalization). Check retaining pins for fretting.
- Inspect sliding collars, dogs, synchro rings, and hub splines for damage caused by prior misalignment.
- Measure against factory wear limits (service manual). Replace forks if any wear or deformation beyond limits; replace rail/pins if worn.
Theory: a new fork acting against a worn rail or with damaged collar may still lead to problems; correct repair replaces any part that compromised engagement geometry.

7) Replace fork(s) and any worn mating parts (ordered)
- If fork press-fit on boss, press off and press on new fork; if integral, replace complete fork assembly.
- Fit new selector rail if required; replace retaining pins or bolts and any springs and detent components.
- Replace or refurbish sliding collars, dog teeth, and synchro rings if partially worn — light wear may be acceptable but check service limits.
- Clean and lightly grease contact faces with assembly lube; do not smear gear oil on detents that require breakaway friction.
Theory: the assembly must restore original running clearances and lateral control. New forks have correct face geometry and boss fit to eliminate play.

8) Reassemble selector mechanism (ordered)
- Install sliding collars and associated hub parts in the correct order and orientation.
- Slide forks onto rails so that each fork engages its collar at the intended face; ensure detents/springs are installed and function.
- Secure selector rails with retaining plates/pins torqued per manual and confirm free smooth rail movement with correct detent feel.
- Rotate shafts (with hub collars engaged/disengaged) to check engagement sequence and absence of binding.
Theory: correct indexing, retention and smooth rail motion are essential to transfer shifter inputs to precise collar movement. Torque and retention prevent movement under load.

9) Rebuild gearbox and replace seals (ordered)
- Inspect bearings and endfloat; check shaft endplay and adjust per service limits. Replace seals and gaskets.
- Refit covers with correct gasket/sealant and torque fasteners to spec.
- Refill with the correct grade and quantity of NSG370-specified gear oil.
Theory: proper bearing clearances and seals prevent secondary failures and preserve function of new forks.

10) Reinstall gearbox and linkage (ordered)
- Lift gearbox into place, align and bolt to engine, torque bellhousing bolts to spec.
- Reconnect clutch linkage/slave, driveshafts/halfshafts, crossmember, and reattach shifter/linkage.
- Adjust shifter linkage to factory specification (neutral position and throw).
Theory: accurate external linkage adjustment ensures internal collar movement corresponds to shifter travel.

11) Test and validation (ordered)
- With vehicle secure, perform static tests: cycle through gears with engine off to confirm smooth engagement; note any binding or unusual detents.
- Road test at low speed: verify shifts under light and moderate load, check for false neutrals, popping out of gear, or grinding.
- Re-inspect for leaks and re-torque fasteners after initial heat cycle.
Theory: dynamic testing verifies restored geometry under load; some issues only reveal under torque.

12) What fix actually corrected the fault (concise)
- A worn/bent fork allowed lateral/sliding collar misalignment and caused incomplete dog/synchro engagement or excessive freeplay. Replacing the fork restores the intended lateral control and contact geometry so collars fully engage the gear dogs/synchro teeth, eliminating play that caused missed shifts, grinding or gear drop-out.
- If selector rail or collar damage existed, replacing those proper mating components prevents recurrence because the fork then runs on a correct bore and contacts a correctly dimensioned collar.

13) Final notes (concise)
- Always compare measurements to the NSG370 factory service limits; do not guess clearances.
- Replace related wear items (synchros, collars, rails, pins) when indicated — a new fork on worn mates is a partial repair.
- Use correct torques, lubricants and assembly sequences from the factory manual.

End.
rteeqp73

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