Short correction first: the Getrag/Chrysler NSG370 is a 6‑speed manual gearbox. A manual gearbox does NOT use a torque converter — it uses a clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw‑out (release) bearing. If your car actually has an automatic transmission, the torque converter procedure below applies; if it truly is an NSG370 you need clutch/flywheel work instead. I’ll give both: concise theory, then ordered repair procedure for a torque converter (automatic) and the equivalent for the NSG370 clutch/flywheel. No extra chatter.

1) Theory — what a torque converter does and common failures
- Function: the torque converter sits between an automatic transmission and the engine flexplate. It transmits and multiplies torque using an impeller (pump) driven by the engine, a turbine driven by transmission fluid, and a stator that redirects fluid to multiply torque at low speeds. It also isolates torsional vibration and allows the engine to idle while the vehicle is stopped.
- Internal parts that fail: turbine clutch/paste (lock‑up clutch) wear or contamination, one‑way stator clutch failure, stuck lock‑up solenoid/circuit, degraded fluid causing overheating and varnish, and internal bearing/seal failure causing fluid leakage.
- Symptoms of a bad torque converter: slipping (poor acceleration), shudder/harsh engagement during lock‑up, overheating/trans fluid contamination, internal noise, erratic transmission behavior, and fluid loss inside housing.
- How replacement fixes faults: replacing the converter replaces worn internal clutches, bearings and stator/clutch assemblies and their seals. That eliminates internal slip or binding, prevents fluid aeration/contamination from a damaged internal seal, and restores proper torque multiplication and lock‑up function, resolving slipping/shudder and many overheating or lock‑up faults.

2) Ordered procedure — replacing a torque converter (automatic transmission) — conceptual steps and why each matters
Note: follow factory service manual for vehicle‑specific jacking points, safety, and torque specs.
1. Preparation and diagnosis
- Confirm diagnosis (stall test, torque converter stall test, scan tool codes, fluid condition). Why: ensures converter is the root cause before major work.
- Gather parts (new converter, filter, transmission pan gasket, ATF, any solenoids/lock‑up components as recommended). Why: replacing converter usually coincides with transmission service.
2. Safety and vehicle preparation
- Secure vehicle on level supports (hoist or heavy jack stands). Disconnect battery. Drain ATF from pan (catch fluid). Why: safety and reduce fluid spillage.
3. Remove driveline and accessories
- Remove driveshafts/propshaft, exhaust sections as needed, crossmember, starter, electrical connectors and sensors from transmission and converter housing. Why: clearances and access to transmission bolts.
4. Support and separate the transmission
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Remove transmission-to-engine bolts and torque converter housing bolts (if accessible) and carefully lower/transmit back to access converter. Why: separating trans from engine exposes converter attachment.
5. Detach converter from flexplate
- With transmission slightly separated (or removed), rotate engine to access converter bolts through flexplate access holes. Remove converter-to-flexplate bolts while supporting converter. Why: these bolts secure converter to flexplate; failure to support converter will damage seal and input shaft.
6. Remove converter
- Slide converter off input shaft and out of bellhousing. Inspect input shaft splines and pump drive for damage. Why: visual check for companion failures and to ensure new converter will seat properly.
7. Inspect and prepare transmission
- Inspect the transmission pump/mating surface for scoring, check rear main and flexplate/driveplate condition, clean the bell housing and mating surfaces. Replace torque converter if pump or mating surfaces are damaged. Why: mating damage will ruin a new converter.
8. Install new torque converter
- Fill new converter with a modest amount of correct ATF (per manufacturer guidance) so pump is not run dry. Align and slide converter onto input shaft; progressively seat it until it engages the pump and fully sits into the bellhousing. You should feel/verify at least 3 distinct positions as it engages (engages splines, seats on pump, seats fully on hub). Why: if not fully seated, transmission pump or input shaft seal will be damaged when bolted up and filled.
9. Bolt converter to flexplate and torque to spec
- Rotate engine to align bolt holes and install bolts, torque to factory spec in a crossing pattern. Why: ensures concentric mounting and prevents runout.
10. Reinstall transmission and torque bolts
- Carefully mate transmission to engine ensuring converter remains seated, then tighten transmission-to-engine bolts to spec. Why: misalignment causes input seal and bearing damage.
11. Reassemble driveline, components, fluids
- Reinstall crossmember, driveshaft, exhaust, starter, sensors. Refill transmission with correct ATF quantity, prime torque converter if required (crank engine in neutral to circulate fluid before start). Why: correct fluid level and priming prevents cavitation and overheating.
12. Test and run‑in
- Start engine, check for leaks, run through gears, drive test and monitor transmission temperature and operation. Clear any codes and verify lock‑up/shift behavior. Why: confirm fault fixed and detect remaining issues.

3) How the repair fixes specific symptoms (concise)
- Slipping/poor acceleration: new internal clutch surfaces and seals restore torque transfer and proper lock‑up.
- Shudder at lock‑up: replacing a worn/contaminated lock‑up clutch resolves vibration.
- Overheating/contaminated fluid: new converter and fresh fluid remove varnish and eliminate internal sources of overheating; still check cooling lines.
- Fluid leakage between trans and engine: new converter seals and proper seating fixes internal leaks.

4) Equivalent for the NSG370 (manual gearbox) — theory and ordered clutch replacement (because manuals use clutch, not torque converter)
- Theory: a manual uses a friction clutch plate sandwiched between the engine flywheel and a pressure plate. When engaged, friction locks engine rotation to the gearbox input shaft via a splined hub. The release (throw‑out) bearing disengages pressure plate to allow gear changes. Symptoms of clutch failure: slipping under load, chatter, dragging, noise, difficulty shifting.
- Why clutch replacement fixes faults: replacing the worn friction disc, resurfacing or replacing flywheel, replacing pressure plate and bearings restores friction coefficient, correct preload and smooth release/engagement.
- Ordered procedure (high‑level):
1. Diagnose (clutch slipping, freeplay, noise). Confirm via stalls/slipping tests.
2. Safety: secure vehicle, disconnect battery.
3. Remove driveshaft/axles, linkage, starter, exhaust or anything blocking trans removal.
4. Support gearbox and remove gearbox mounting bolts; separate gearbox from engine and lower to access clutch.
5. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc; inspect flywheel surface for heat spots, grooving or warpage.
6. If needed, resurface or replace flywheel; replace pilot bearing/bushing and inspect input shaft.
7. Install new clutch disc using an alignment tool and mount pressure plate; torque bolts to factory pattern/spec.
8. Replace throw‑out bearing and any release mechanism parts.
9. Reinstall gearbox, set clutch pedal freeplay/adjustment as required, reinstall all components.
10. Road test and verify engagement, no slipping, proper shifting.
- Precautions: always use alignment tool, torque bolts to spec in star pattern, replace worn bearings/seals, check runout of flywheel and concentricity to avoid chatter.

5) Important checks and tips (concise)
- Always follow the factory service manual for torque specs, fluid type and quantities, and any module relearns.
- When replacing torque converter, ensure it’s the correct converter for the transmission/engine combination; incorrect converters cause drivability and damage.
- Never run the transmission pump dry — prefill new converter per manufacturer direction.
- If converter failure was due to overheating, inspect cooling system and transmission oil cooler lines and replace ATF and filter.
- For NSG370 clutch jobs, always inspect and/or replace the pilot bearing and throw‑out bearing and check gearbox input shaft splines for wear.

That’s the ordered theory and repair mapping for torque converter replacement (automatic) and the correct manual‑gearbox equivalent for the NSG370 (clutch/flywheel).
rteeqp73

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