Tools & parts needed
- Basic hand tools: 1/4" & 3/8" drive ratchets, 8–15 mm sockets, flat and Phillips screwdrivers.
- Pliers: slip-joint, hose-clip (spring) pliers or long-nose.
- Utility knife or hose-cutting tool.
- Hose pick or small pry tool.
- Flashlight or inspection lamp.
- Floor jack + properly rated jack stands (or lift) and wheel chocks.
- Replacement vent/breather hose (recommended: 3/8" or 1/2" ID fuel/oil-resistant rubber hose — match the OEM nipple size), new spring clamps or worm-drive clamps, zip ties.
- Small length of heat‑shrink or split loom (optional, for routing protection).
- Cleaning rags and a small container to catch any drips.
- Optional: dielectric grease or small amount of light oil to ease hose installation.

Safety first
- Park on a level surface, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- If you will go under the vehicle, lift only with a rated jack and support with jack stands on the frame; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect hands/eyes from grime, sharp edges, and fluid.
- Have absorbent pads or rags ready for any fluid drips.
- Disconnect battery only if you will be working around wiring; not required for breather hose replacement but safe if you’ll be under dash.

What you’re doing (short)
The NV3550 transmission/gearbox has a vent/breather tube that must be unobstructed and routed higher than potential water ingress. “Air intake tube” here means that breather/vent extension. You will inspect, clean or replace it and reroute it to a safe location.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Prepare vehicle
- Chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and support on jack stands so you have good access under the belly and along the transmission tunnel. Alternatively work from engine bay if tube routes there and you have access.

2. Locate the breather/vent nipple and tube
- On NV3550 the vent is on the top/side of the transmission case (usually near shifter area). Use a flashlight and follow any existing hose that runs from the case up toward the firewall or airbox.
- If the hose disappears into the engine bay, trace it to its termination point.

3. Inspect the hose and connections
- Look for cracks, collapsed sections, blockages, kinks, melted spots, or repairs/zipties.
- Check that the hose end is secured above the waterline (inner fender or firewall) and not pointing down toward the road or axle vent.

4. Remove old hose
- Use pliers or a screwdriver to loosen the clamp (spring clamp or worm-drive) securing the hose at the transmission nipple.
- Grip and twist the hose gently while pulling off. Use spray of penetrating oil or a twisting motion to free stubborn hose. Use a hose pick or small flat screwdriver to get under the hose lip—don’t pry on mating surfaces too hard to avoid damaging the nylon/metal nipple.
- Remove any fasteners that secure the hose along its routing (zip ties, clips). Cut zip ties with utility knife or snips.

5. Clean and inspect the nipple and fittings
- Wipe the transmission nipple and surrounding area clean. Check the nipple for damage or cracks. If housing nipple is damaged, transmission case repair or replacement of that cover may be required.

6. Prepare replacement hose
- Cut new hose to length so it reaches the final mounting point without kinks and with gentle bends only. Typical length is often 18–36 inches depending on routing.
- Slide new clamps on before installing hose (if using worm-drive style).
- If routing near heat sources, use split loom or heat shield to protect the hose.

7. Install new hose to transmission
- Apply a tiny amount of light oil or dielectric grease to the nipple to ease installation.
- Push hose fully onto the nipple until the hose lip seats against the shoulder.
- Secure with appropriate clamp: spring clamps are common on breathers; worm-drive clamps give a positive seal but do not over-tighten (hose should not be pinched closed). Use hose-clip pliers for spring clamps or screwdriver/socket for worm clamps.

8. Route and secure hose
- Route up into engine bay or to the inner fender area, securing with new zip ties or retaining clips. The hose end should point up and be located where splashed water or mud cannot enter (behind the airbox or tied to fender lip is common).
- Avoid routing over sharp edges or near hot exhaust headers. Use split loom where abrasion could occur.
- Leave small amount of slack for engine/transmission movement.

9. Final checks
- Reinspect clamps for security, ensure no kinks, ensure termination point is above likely water level.
- Lower vehicle from jack stands.
- Start engine and work the shifter through gears lightly; observe area visually for drips. There should be no fluid flow from the vent unless overfilled or under pressure — a small exhale of air under load is normal but nothing continuous.

10. Test drive & recheck
- Short test drive, then recheck hose security and for any leaks. Re-tighten clamps or re-route if necessary.

Tool usage details & tips
- Hose clamp pliers: compress spring clamps to remove/install quickly and safely.
- Worm-drive clamp driver/socket: 7–11 mm socket or flat screwdriver to tighten; tighten until snug but do not crush hose or nipple (firm hand torque).
- Hose pick/flat screwdriver: work small wedge under hose lip to break adhesion. Be careful not to gouge the nipple material.
- Utility knife: make a square, clean cut on hose; a jagged cut can leak or come off the nipple.

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Routing the breather too low: this allows water ingestion; always route upward and terminate high in engine bay or behind fender liner.
- Using the wrong hose: thin vacuum hose or garden hose may collapse or melt. Use oil/fuel-resistant, flexible hose sized to the nipple.
- Over-tightening clamps: can cut or deform hose causing failure. If using worm clamps, tighten until snug and test by tugging.
- Leaving the hose unsecured: vibrations will chafe it through and cause leaks or disconnection.
- Reconnecting a contaminated hose without cleaning: internal blockages or fluid in hose indicate internal leaks — inspect transmission seals if significant fluid is present.
- Reusing cracked or hardened OEM hose: brittle hoses commonly fail; replace if older than a few years or showing cracking.

Replacement parts to consider
- Correct ID hose (match nipple size; most are ~3/8"–1/2" ID).
- New spring-type or worm-drive clamps (stainless if possible).
- Breather extension kit (aftermarket kits available that fit Jeep transmissions and include fittings and mounting brackets).
- If the transmission nipple or housing is damaged, replacement of the nipple/cover or professional repair may be required.

When to involve a shop
- If the breather nipple is broken off, the case is cracked, or you find actual fluid leaking from the vent constantly — stop and consult a transmission specialist.
- If you discover large amounts of fluid or contamination inside the breather hose, you may have a seal failure or overfill condition requiring professional diagnosis.

Done.
rteeqp73

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