Short answer up front: a 42RLE automatic does not use a driver-operated throwout/clutch‑release bearing like a manual gearbox. The nearest equivalent faults you’d treat with removal and replacement are (a) the torque converter (including its internal bearings and lock‑up clutch) or (b) transmission input/pilot bearings and seals inside the bellhousing — both require removing the transmission (or rebuilding the transmission/torque converter). Below is an ordered, theory‑focused procedure for removing the transmission and replacing the torque converter (the practical repair that replaces the “release‑bearing” symptoms on a 42RLE), with why each action fixes the fault.

Preparation & theory summary
1) Theory of the system and the fault:
- The 42RLE is a hydraulically coupled automatic with a torque converter between engine and planetary gearset. The converter transmits torque through fluid coupling and contains an internal lock‑up clutch and rotating components supported on bearings.
- Symptoms that people think of as a “throwout bearing” (rumble, growl, vibration on engagement, shudder at certain RPM/loads, bearing noise from bellhousing area, or leaks) are usually caused by worn torque‑converter bearings, a failing lock‑up clutch, damaged pilot/input bearing, or a failing pump/input shaft bearing inside the transmission.
- Replacing the torque converter or rebuilding the transmission replaces the worn bearings and clutch surfaces and restores correct clearances and hydraulic function, eliminating noise/shudder and preventing further damage to the input shaft and pump.

Ordered procedure (high‑level; follow factory manual for torque specs, clearances, and any special tools)
Safety first: work on level surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery, use rated jack stands, wear eye protection and gloves. Automatic transmissions contain heavy components and hot fluid — do not improvise.

2) Drain transmission fluid (optional initial step)
- Why: reduces spills and fluid draining when separating lines/drive shafts; gives early indication of fluid condition (metal, burnt smell).
- How: remove drain plug or pan and lower carefully, filter/pan may come off later.

3) Raise vehicle & remove obstructing components
- Remove underbody shields, exhaust sections (as required to clear transmission), driveshaft(s), transfer case link if 4WD, starter motor, and any bellhousing-mounted sensors or wiring harness brackets.
- Why: clearance and to prevent damage. Disconnecting these components isolates the transmission and avoids dragging or bending parts during separation.

4) Disconnect cooler lines, electrical connectors, and linkage
- Unbolt/ disconnect transmission cooler lines at the cooler or hard line (catch fluid), unplug all electrical connectors, and remove shift linkage/park cable.
- Why: prevents line damage and electrical damage during transmission removal and allows clean reconnection when reinstalling.

5) Support engine and transmission
- Support the engine (if removing transmission support crossmember) and support the transmission with a transmission jack or heavy floor jack and a wood block.
- Why: the bellhousing bolts support the engine-transmission assembly. You must support one side to separate safely.

6) Unbolt bellhousing and separate transmission from engine
- Remove bellhousing bolts in a pattern to avoid tensioning. Slide transmission rearward until torque converter disengages from the flexplate, but stop before pulling too far — the converter will stay on the input shaft.
- Why: separating gives access to the torque converter and bellhousing internals. Pulling too far can damage the front pump seal.

7) Remove torque converter from transmission/stub
- With the transmission supported on the jack, lower it slightly and tip as needed to access converter-to-flexplate bolts (sometimes accessed after rotating engine). Remove the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts (some engines require rotating the crank to access bolt holes) and then carefully slide the torque converter off the input shaft.
- Why: the converter contains the bearings/clutch you are replacing. Removing it allows inspection and replacement.

8) Inspect components and decide repair scope
- Inspect torque converter for metal debris, roughness, free play on the hub, and lock‑up clutch condition. Inspect the transmission input shaft pilot/bore, front pump seal, and bellhousing for damage. Inspect flexplate for shifted tabs or damaged mounting.
- Why: determines whether you replace only the torque converter or need a transmission rebuild. Metal in fluid or bearing play often mandates a full transmission overhaul.

9) Replace torque converter (or rebuild transmission)
- If replacing the torque converter: install a new/rebuilt converter of the correct spec for the 42RLE. Before installation, prime the converter: fill the torque converter with the correct ATF until fluid is visible in the inspection holes or until it is 75–100% full per service instructions.
- If the problem is internal bearings/pumps, plan for a transmission teardown/rebuild or replacement.
- Why: new bearings and clutch surfaces remove the wear that caused noise/shudder; priming prevents dry‑start damage to the pump and seals on first rotation.

10) Install torque converter and align
- Carefully slide the primed torque converter onto the input shaft; you will feel several distinct engagements as it seats fully into the pump and onto splines. It must fully engage the front pump — typically it should sit a specific distance inboard (factory spec) and rotate freely on the input hub.
- Install transmission onto engine, making sure the converter’s hub mates to the flexplate and the bellhousing faces flush. Torque bellhousing bolts to factory specs in a cross pattern.
- Torque converter-to-flexplate bolts: rotate crank so bolt holes align and torque to factory spec.
- Why: correct seating and torque prevent misalignment, input shaft seal failure, and premature wear. Proper torque is essential to avoid bolt failure and flexplate distortion.

11) Reconnect lines, harnesses, driveshaft, exhaust, etc.
- Reconnect cooler lines (use new O‑rings if applicable), electrical connectors, linkages, starter, driveshaft(s), and any removed exhaust parts.
- Replace transmission fluid filter and pan gasket if you removed the pan earlier.
- Why: restores hydraulic and electrical systems, ensures no external leaks, and that fluid flows and shifts will be correct.

12) Refill transmission with correct ATF and bleed/initialize
- Add the specified type and amount of fluid through the dipstick tube (or fill port). With engine running and transmission in park/neutral and parking brake set, cycle through gears per factory bleed procedure to purge air from the converter and hydraulic circuit. Check fluid level at operating temperature and top to spec.
- Why: the torque converter must be fully filled and air removed; air in the circuit causes erratic shifting, noise, and pump cavitation.

13) Road test and re‑inspect
- Test drive to verify noise/shudder is gone, lock‑up is smooth, and there are no leaks. Recheck fluid level after warm-up and after a few heat cycles.
- Why: ensures the repair resolved the symptoms; some internal damage elsewhere may show up under load.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory)
- Worn torque converter bearings or a failing lock‑up clutch create axial/radial play, rubbing, or hydraulic instability. That produces vibration, growl, shudder at lock‑up, and possible metal contamination.
- Replacing the torque converter removes worn bearings and clutch surfaces, restoring proper clearances and hydraulic damping. Priming and seating ensure the transmission pump is not starved and seals aren’t damaged at startup.
- If the input/pilot bearing or front pump bearing inside the transmission is the real culprit, replacing only the torquer converter may not fix the problem; a transmission teardown is needed to replace internal bearings and pump. The correct fix reestablishes concentric alignment between engine crank, converter, and transmission pump so the hydraulic system operates within design tolerances and bearing loads are normal.

Final notes (brief)
- If your symptom is a clutch‑type feel in a manual, you may be describing a different gearbox — 42RLE is automatic; a throwout bearing is on manual gearboxes and is replaced with the clutch assembly.
- Use the factory service manual for the 42RLE for clearances, bolt torque values, fluid type/quantity, and any special procedures.
- If metal contamination was present, consider a full transmission rebuild or replacement rather than just a converter swap, because debris damages new parts.

That’s the ordered, theory‑oriented approach for replacing the torque‑converter/bearing assembly (the equivalent of a “clutch release bearing” fault) on a Jeep 42RLE and how the repair corrects the failure.
rteeqp73

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