Tools & consumables
- Floor jack, jack stands (pair), wheel chocks
- 1/2" and 3/8" drive ratchets, breaker bar, extensions
- Socket set (common sizes: 13, 15, 18, 21 mm and 1/2" drive) and deep sockets
- Allen / Torx set (some caliper bolts/retaining screws use these)
- Torque wrench (capable of wheel torque)
- Flat screwdriver, pry bar
- Rubber/ dead‑blow mallet and hammer
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar)
- Wire brush, clean rags, brake cleaner
- C‑clamp or piston wind‑back tool (rear caliper parking brake type)
- Caliper hanger or strap to support caliper (do not hang on hose)
- Hub/rotor puller or slide‑hammer (if rotor is seized)
- Brake pad spreader or old pad for piston compression
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (for rotor thickness check)
- High‑temp brake grease, anti‑seize compound
- New rotors (spec for WJ/WG), new pads recommended
- New rotor retaining screw(s) if present (often cheap to replace)
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves

Safety first
- Work on flat level surface. Chock opposite wheels. Engage park and remove key.
- Never rely on the jack alone — always use rated jack stands under the frame.
- Wear eye protection. Brake dust may contain harmful material; avoid blowing it with compressed air.
- Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose (stress/damage). Support it with a hanger or strap.
- Clean new rotors with brake cleaner to remove protective oil before installation.

Quick pre‑check
- Verify vehicle is the WJ (1999–2004) series or WG variant and order correct rotors.
- Inspect pads — replace pads with rotors unless pads are new and mating surface is clean.
- Check rotor minimum thickness stamped on rotor or in manual; measure with micrometer.

Front rotor replacement — step by step
1. Loosen lug nuts slightly while vehicle on ground.
2. Raise vehicle, secure on jack stands, remove wheel.
3. Remove caliper:
- Locate caliper bolts (usually on backside of caliper). Remove bolts with appropriate socket/Allen/Torx.
- Pry caliper free from pads and rotor if stuck. Use caliper hanger to support it off the hub.
4. Remove brake pads and anti‑rattle clips. Note orientation.
5. Remove caliper bracket (if rotor is pressed against hub and won’t slide off with bracket on) — two bolts hold bracket to knuckle. Remove these to free rotor.
6. Remove rotor retaining screw (if fitted).
7. Remove rotor:
- If rotor slides off easily, pull it straight back.
- If seized: apply penetrating oil around hub–rotor interface. Let sit 10–15 minutes. Use dead‑blow mallet striking the rotor face near the hat edge in several locations to break corrosion. If still stuck, use a rotor puller or hub puller, or screw‑in puller bolts to push rotor off hub. Avoid hammering the wheel studs.
8. Clean hub mating surface: wire brush to remove corrosion, wipe with brake cleaner. Ensure a flat, clean surface so new rotor seats true.
9. Slide new rotor onto hub. If rotors have anti‑rust coating on braking surface, clean it off with brake cleaner.
10. Reinstall caliper bracket and torque to factory spec (use factory manual for exact torque).
11. Compress caliper piston as required:
- For front pistons that push straight in, use C‑clamp or pad over piston and compress slowly.
- For rear piston with parking brake mechanism (if applicable), use a dedicated wind‑back tool that both rotates and pushes the piston in. Turn only as manufacturer direction (usually clockwise).
12. Install new pads and anti‑rattle clips, then reinstall caliper over rotor/bracket. Tighten caliper bolts to factory torque.
13. Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts in star pattern to factory spec.
14. Lower vehicle. Torque wheel lugs to spec with torque wrench.

Rear rotor replacement (notes — parking brake)
- Rear WJ calipers have integral parking brake pistons that must be rotated in while compressing. Use a wind‑back tool with the correct adapter to engage the piston slots/notches and rotate while pressing. A plain C‑clamp will damage these pistons.
- Sequence otherwise mirrors front: remove wheel, remove caliper, remove bracket if necessary, remove rotor (hat may include parking brake drum hat arrangement on some models), free seized rotor as above.
- If rotor uses drum‑in‑hat parking brake shoes (some rear variants), you may need to retract the internal shoes via the adjuster (through access hole) before rotor will come off.

How each tool is used (practical detail)
- Penetrating oil: spray around hub/rotor seam and on retaining screw threads. Let soak.
- Dead‑blow mallet: strike rotor face at multiple positions outboard close to rim edge — not directly on central hub — to shock corrosion free. Do not hit the wheel studs.
- Rotor/hub puller: thread puller bolts into the rotor or onto studs and tighten center forcing rod to pull rotor off hub evenly.
- Piston wind‑back tool: install appropriate adapter into caliper piston slots, place tool across caliper, slowly turn the handle to rotate piston while pushing inward. This retracts the parking-brake piston without damage.
- C‑clamp: place old pad against piston face, clamp with C‑clamp frame on caliper body and screw to slowly compress piston for non‑rotating pistons.
- Torque wrench: use for final tightening of caliper bracket bolts and wheel lug nuts — set to factory specs and tighten in proper sequence.

Replacement parts & consumables required
- New rotor(s) (front and/or rear as needed) — OEM or quality aftermarket matching vehicle spec (vented/solid, drilled/slotted per application).
- Brake pads (highly recommended to replace pads with rotors).
- New rotor retaining screw(s) if corroded or damaged.
- Brake grease for pad contact points and slide pins; new slide‑pin boots if torn.
- Anti‑seize for hub registration area (thin film only).
- Optional: new caliper guide pins or new caliper if seized/leaking.

Checks & measurements
- Measure rotor thickness and compare to minimum spec; replace if below minimum or if warped/excessively scored.
- After install, spin wheel by hand to check for binding, ABS sensor clearance.
- Check brake fluid level in master cylinder; top up if needed.
- If brake hose was disconnected, bleed brakes per factory procedure.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Letting caliper hang on hose — can damage hose.
- Using a simple C‑clamp on rear parking‑brake pistons that require rotation — this ruins the piston.
- Not cleaning hub surface — leads to rotor runout and pulsation.
- Reusing old pads on new rotors without checking transfer layer — can cause noise or uneven wear. Best practice: replace pads with rotors.
- Not removing rusted rotor stuck to hub with proper puller — excessive hammering can damage studs/knuckle.
- Contaminating pad/rotor surfaces with grease or oil from hands — always keep surfaces clean.
- Forgetting to bench‑bleed or road‑bleed if system opened — leads to spongy pedal.
- Skipping bed‑in procedure — causes glazing and reduced performance.

Final steps and bedding‑in
- Pump brake pedal a few times with engine off to seat pads against rotors before driving.
- Bedding: perform a series of controlled stops from moderate speed to heat the brakes and transfer pad material: about 8–12 stops from 30–40 mph down to 5–10 mph with medium firm stops, allowing cool between sets. Avoid heavy towing or severe braking for first 200 miles.

Notes
- Always use the factory service manual for exact bolt torque values and any model‑specific steps for the WJ/WG series.
- If ABS warning or unusual vibration persists after replacement, re‑check rotor seating, hub surface, and wheel bearing play.

Done.
rteeqp73

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