Goal: show you, as a beginner mechanic, how the Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 rocker-arm system works, why you would service it, how to inspect/adjust/remove/replace rocker arms and related parts, what can go wrong, and how to do the work safely and correctly. This is a full, practical workshop-style guide. Read the safety notes and the “specs” paragraph—always verify exact clearances and torques from your specific Perkins workshop manual for the engine serial/year you have.

Short theory (the why and how — plain language)
- What the rocker-arm system does: The engine camshaft rotates in the block and pushes up lifters/tappets; that upward motion is transferred by pushrods to rocker arms on the cylinder head. The rocker arm pivots on a shaft or pedestal and pushes the valve stem down to open the valve (fuel/air in or exhaust out). When the cam lobe moves away, the valve spring closes the valve and the rocker returns. Think of the rocker as a seesaw: the cam/pushrod press one end down and the other end pushes the valve down.
- Why you service it: Valve clearances (lash) are required. If lash is too large you get ticking/noise, loss of cam lift at the valve (reduced engine breathing and power), and faster wear at contact points. If lash is too small valves can run semi-permanently open: loss of compression, burned valves, poor starting, and potential piston-to-valve contact (very bad). Worn or loose rocker components cause noise, oil leaks, broken studs or bent pushrods, and eventual valve timing/performance problems.
- Symptoms that point to the rocker / valvetrain: loud tappet/rocker ticking, loss of power, rough idle, hard starting, white/black smoke changes, oil seepage from rocker cover, broken rocker studs or collapsed valve springs, or physical damage when you remove the cover.

Parts and components (every component you’ll touch and what it does)
- Rocker cover (valve cover) and gasket: keeps oil in and dirt out. Remove to access rockers.
- Cylinder head: houses valve guides, valve seats, springs, and provides mounting for rocker shafts or pedestals.
- Rocker shaft or rocker pedestal/bolts: the pivot the rocker arms sit on. Some engines use individual pedestals, some a shaft. Perkins 4.1-series typically uses a rocker shaft with arms riding on it.
- Rocker arms: pivoting levers transferring motion from pushrod to valve. Tops usually have a cup or a hardened tip that contacts the valve stem.
- Adjusting screw and locknut (on each rocker): lets you set valve clearance (lash).
- Pushrods: thin rods transmitting motion from tappet/lifter to rocker.
- Tappets / lifters (bucket or roller style in the block): ride on the cam lobes; push the pushrods.
- Valves: intake and exhaust valves that open/close to let gases in/out.
- Valve springs and retainers: close valves when cam lobe passes.
- Camshaft (in block): generates the timing profile.
- Oil feed passages: feed oil to the rocker shaft and rocker ends for lubrication.
- Rocker cover breather / PCV: allows crankcase venting.

Tools, consumables and parts you’ll need
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, spanners.
- Torque wrench (essential for head/shaft/cover bolts if you reassemble properly).
- Feeler gauge set (metric and imperial if possible).
- Screwdriver, pliers, magnet pickup.
- Clean rags, parts cleaner (degreaser), shop towels.
- Small nylon/soft brush, compressed air (optional).
- Replacement rocker cover gasket.
- Replacement rocker arms/shafts/pedestals/pushrods if worn.
- Light engine oil (to lubricate on reassembly).
- Anti-seize (sparingly on studs if required by manual).
- Pen and marker to mark which rocker goes where (if removing).
- Workshop manual or printout of valve lash and torque specs for your exact engine.

Important safety and prep
- Work on a cold engine unless the manual specifies “warm”. Valve clearances are usually measured cold—check your manual.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal if you’ll be rotating engine with starter engaged or working near wiring.
- Clean around the rocker cover before opening to prevent dirt falling into the head.
- Work in a well-lit area and use suitable stands/chocks if the engine is in a vehicle.
- Keep a clean tray for bolts/parts and mark which cylinder each rocker belongs to if you remove them.

Valve lash and specs (critical)
- Valve lash is the clearance between the rocker (or tappet) and valve stem when the valve is closed. This clearance lets valves fully seat when hot and allows thermal expansion.
- Exact clearances and bolt torques vary by model and year. Typical small Perkins 4-cylinder examples often quoted (but you must verify in the manual): intake ≈ 0.15–0.20 mm (0.006–0.008 in); exhaust ≈ 0.20–0.25 mm (0.008–0.010 in). Treat these as example ranges only. Confirm and use the manual’s numbers for your engine serial.
- Locknut torque and rocker-shaft torque: check the workshop manual.

Step-by-step: Inspect and adjust valve clearances (beginner-friendly)
1) Preparation
- Ensure engine cool (cold). Clean the top of rocker cover and remove any debris.
- Remove rocker cover bolts in a star/criss-cross pattern and lift the cover off. Remove gasket and set aside.
- Clean away oil and sludge so you can see each rocker, pushrod and the end of the valve stem.

2) Rotate engine to set the first cylinder on compression stroke (both valves closed)
- Remove the glow plug or loosen an injector line for easier cranking if necessary and safe for the job.
- Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel bolt and rotate the engine slowly in the normal rotation direction until either:
a) timing marks show TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke, or
b) you observe both the intake and exhaust rocker arms for cylinder 1 are loose/slack (valve springs closed) — meaning the cam lobe for that cylinder is on its base circle (no lift).
- If you’re unsure of firing order or marks, get the workshop manual; the typical firing order for 4-cyl Perkins is often 1-3-4-2, but verify.

3) Measure lash with feeler gauge
- Place the correct feeler gauge between the valve stem tip (or rocker screw tip) and the rocker cup or pad.
- For each valve, the feeler should slide with a slight drag. If it’s loose (too large) or too tight, adjustment is needed.

4) Adjusting the valve clearance
- Loosen the rocker locknut (hold the adjusting screw steady with a screwdriver or hex key) and turn the adjusting screw to achieve the correct clearance.
- Hold the screw while tightening the locknut. Recheck the feeler after you tighten because tightening the locknut can alter the setting — re-adjust if needed.
- Repeat for intake and exhaust of the cylinder you’re on.

5) Advance to the next cylinder
- Rotate the crank 180° or 360° appropriately so the next cylinder’s cam lobe is on the base circle. Use the firing order/method in the manual. A common sequence to adjust all valves is to rotate the engine so each cylinder is on compression and adjust both valves for that cylinder; go through all four cylinders.
- Repeat measurement and adjustment for each valve.

6) Recheck
- After adjusting all valves once, rotate the engine two full revolutions and recheck all clearances—some will change slightly; recheck and final adjust as required.

7) Reassemble
- Inspect rocker cover gasket; replace if damaged.
- Lightly oil rocker shaft bearings and rocker pivot areas if dry.
- Refit rocker cover with new gasket and tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern to manufacturer torque.
- Reconnect anything you removed (battery, glow plug). Start engine and listen—should be quiet/tidy with no loud metallic tapping.

Procedure: Removing/inspecting/replacing rocker arms and shaft
If a rocker arm or shaft is noisy, scored, cracked or you suspect a bent pushrod, follow these steps.

1) Mark and remove
- With the cover off, mark each rocker and its position (number cylinders). Remove adjuster locknuts and adjusters if necessary to remove rockers more easily.
- Remove rocker shaft retaining bolts. Keep bolts and spacers in order.
- Lift shaft assembly and rockers out as a unit when possible. On some setups you remove each rocker sequentially.

2) Clean and inspect parts
- Inspect rocker faces/tips for pitting, mushrooming, flattening or wear. Replace rockers with excessive wear.
- Inspect rocker shaft: check for scuffing, scoring, oval wear where rockers sit.
- Inspect pushrods: roll them on a flat surface to check straightness. Bent pushrods must be replaced.
- Inspect tappets/lifters and cam lobes where visible—pitting or flattening there is a sign of contamination or lack of oil.
- Inspect valve stems and guides; look for wear or oil leakage around seals.
- Check valve springs for cracked or weak coils; replace if suspect.

3) Replace/repair
- Replace entire rocker shaft or individual rockers if parts are worn. Replace studs or bolts if damaged.
- Clean oil passages thoroughly. Make sure oil holes in the shaft line up with oil passages in the head.
- Lubricate assembly with clean engine oil during rebuild.

4) Refit and torque
- Reassemble in the reverse order. If the rocker spacers or lock tabs have orientation marks, fit them correctly.
- Tighten shaft bolts/nuts evenly in steps to the correct torque from the manual.
- After fitting, rotate engine and recheck clearances and operation.

Common faults, causes, and fixes (what can go wrong)
- Excessive rocker noise (ticking): lash too large, rocker/pivot wear, loose shaft, worn pushrod, or clogged oil feed causing tappet collapse. Fix: adjust lash, replace worn parts, clear oil passages.
- Valves not seating / burnt valves / loss of compression: lash too tight, broken valve spring. Fix: correct lash, replace springs, inspect valves for burning and refit or replace as needed.
- Worn rocker tip/mushrooming on valve stem: poor lubrication, dirty oil, long service intervals. Fix: replace rocker and/or valves, change oil and filter, check oil passage.
- Broken rocker studs or stripped threads: over-torquing or corrosion. Fix: repair threads (helicoil or insert) or replace head studs and use correct torque.
- Bent pushrods: often caused by a stuck valve or a piston contacting a valve; replace pushrod and inspect valve timing/piston clearance.
- Shaft oiling blocked: dry running causes scoring/pitting. Fix: clear oilways; inspect shaft and replace if scored.

Practical tips and analogies
- Think of the system like a row of seesaws: the cam pushes one end of a seesaw (pushrod) and the other end pushes the valve. If the pivot (rocker shaft) is loose or worn the seesaw rattles and doesn’t transfer the push cleanly.
- Always adjust with the engine position where the cam lobe is on the base circle (valve closed). If you try to adjust when the lobe is lifting the valve you’ll set the wrong clearance.
- When adjusting, tighten the locknut while holding the screw stationary; otherwise the adjustment will slip.
- Keep dirt out. A little grit in the head will ruin lifters and cam surfaces quickly.
- Replace gaskets and seal properly; oil in the rocker cover makes a mess and can hide problems.

Final notes and cautions
- Exact valve clearances and torque specs vary by Perkins model and serial. Use the Perkins workshop manual for your exact engine before final adjustments. The manual will give the correct firing order, clearance values, torque settings and any special shimming procedures.
- If you find major wear (scored shaft, badly worn rockers, pitted cam lobes), don’t try to “live with it.” Replace parts or the whole shaft assembly and get the cam/tappets checked. Small savings up front can cost you an engine.
- After any work, run the engine and listen. A properly adjusted valvetrain is quiet and smooth. Loud ticking after adjustment means recheck lash and torque.

Quick checklist you can follow at the bench
- Clean rocker cover area → remove cover.
- Rotate to TDC (or base-circle) for cylinder 1.
- Measure intake and exhaust lash → adjust to spec.
- Move to next cylinder following firing order → repeat.
- Re-check all clearances → re-check after two revolutions.
- Replace cover/gasket → start engine → check for leaks/noise.

This covers the full workshop-level approach to rockers on the Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99: what parts do, why you adjust/replace them, step-by-step practical procedures, common failures and fixes, and safety tips. Use the exact Perkins manual for your engine for the final clearance and torque values before you tighten anything permanently.
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