Contents
1 General information
2 Specifications
3 Cylinder head assembly
4 Piston and connecting rod assemblies
5 Crankshaft assembly
6 Timing case and drive assembly
7 Cylinder block assembly
8 Engine timing
9 Aspiration system
10 Lubrication system
11 Fuel system
12 Cooling system
13 Flywheel and housing
14 Electrical equipment
15 Auxiliary equipment
16 Special tools
Perkins 400 series diesel engines Diesel 403C-11 403C-15 404C-22 404C-22T factory workshop and repair manual
Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots.
- Vehicle support: axle stands (rated), wheel chocks, level ground.
- Lifting/support: hydraulic floor jack, transmission jack or low-profile jack + wood block, engine support bar or engine hoist (to support engine if mount shares load).
- Hand tools: metric socket set (deep and shallow), breaker bar, ratchet, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (appropriate range, e.g., 0–200 Nm).
- Impact gun (optional) — use cautiously.
- Pry bar, screwdriver set.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), wire brush, rags.
- Hammer, drift, punch.
- Threadlocker medium strength (Loctite 243) and anti-seize (if required by manual).
- Replacement parts: correct Perkins transmission/engine mount(s) for 400 series (403C/404C) — order OEM part or approved aftermarket equivalent. New mounting bolts/studs/washers if original hardware is corroded or torque-to-yield type. If studs are damaged, helicoil or stud-repair kit may be required.
Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid starter operation or electrical short.
- Ensure engine/transmission is fully cooled before working in mount area.
- Always support the engine and/or transmission with a jack and an independent support (engine hoist or support bar) before removing mounts. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Use rated jack stands under the chassis; never rely solely on a jack.
- When using an impact gun, use torque wrench to finish to spec; impacts can over-tighten or shear bolts.
Preparation
1. Locate correct mount(s). On 403C/404C installations the transmission mount is typically at gearbox-to-chassis area or on a crossmember adjacent to the bellhousing; confirm layout on your machine.
2. Clean area: remove grime so hardware is visible. Spray penetrating oil on mount bolts and let soak (several hours or overnight for corroded fasteners).
3. Take reference photos of mount orientation and hardware routing (transmission/engine tilt position) to aid reinstallation.
Step-by-step replacement
1. Raise and support vehicle/machine:
- Raise vehicle high enough for safe access.
- Place jack stands under manufacturer-approved lifting points; lower vehicle onto stands.
- Chock wheels and re-check stability.
2. Support transmission/engine:
- Place transmission jack under the transmission pan or suitable support point; use a wood block to distribute load and avoid damage.
- Slightly raise the jack to take the weight — just enough so transmission is supported but not lifting the vehicle.
- If mount shares load with engine, also support the engine with an engine support bar or hoist. Verify that all load on the mount is transferred to jacks/supports before removing bolts.
3. Remove connected items that obstruct access:
- Remove heat shields, wiring harness brackets, linkage, or exhaust hangers if they block the mount.
- Label and/or photograph removed items.
4. Loosen and remove mount bolts:
- Loosen mount-to-transmission (or bellhousing) bolts first, then mount-to-frame bolts.
- Use breaker bar or impact gun carefully. If bolts are frozen, apply more penetrating oil and tap with hammer/drift on the bolt head to break corrosion.
- If a stud breaks in an aluminum bellhousing, stop and follow stud-extraction procedure (see pitfalls). Do not force.
5. Remove the mount:
- With bolts removed and the transmission supported, remove mount from bracket. You may need to pry slightly to free a corroded mount.
- Inspect mount seating surfaces, bracket, crossmember, and frame for cracks or deformation. Replace brackets if damaged.
6. Prepare surfaces and parts:
- Clean mating surfaces with wire brush and solvent.
- Compare new mount to old; confirm orientation and that bolt hole positions match.
- Replace hardware if bolts show corrosion or stretch. Use new washers.
7. Install new mount:
- Place new mount in position. If rubber isolator is stiff, use a small amount of soapy water to ease seating (do not use petroleum on rubber).
- Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten mount-to-frame bolts lightly so mount can float for alignment, then tighten mount-to-transmission bolts lightly. Do not fully torque yet.
8. Align and lower supports:
- Carefully lower the transmission jack until the mount fully contacts both faces and there is no preload or lift on the mount. The mount should carry normal static load only.
- Verify engine/transmission alignment with measured reference or by comparing photos. Adjust if necessary using the support jack(s).
9. Torque bolts to spec:
- Consult Perkins workshop manual or machine manufacturer for exact torque values and tightening sequence. If manual unavailable, typical ranges:
- M10 bolts: ~40–55 Nm
- M12 bolts: ~70–100 Nm
- M14 bolts: ~110–150 Nm
- Use torque wrench and tighten bolts in recommended sequence in two stages (e.g., 50% then 100% torque).
- Apply threadlocker to bolts if specified by OEM; do not use threadlocker on bolts going into aluminum where anti-seize is specified—follow manual.
10. Reinstall removed items:
- Reattach brackets, wiring, linkage, heat shields, and exhaust hangers. Ensure no cables are trapped or stressed.
11. Final checks:
- Remove jacks/supports slowly while observing mount behavior. Ensure no binding or movement.
- Start engine, check for unusual vibration or noise at idle and under light load.
- After a short run (10–50 km or 10–20 minutes operation), re-check torque on mount bolts. New rubber mounts can settle; retorque is normal practice.
How to use key tools (details)
- Transmission jack: Position directly under transmission center with wood block. Raise until it just takes the load. Use the jack to slightly lift or lower the transmission for bolt alignment. Never rely on jack alone—use stands/supports.
- Engine support bar/hoist: Attach to recommended pick-up points on cylinder head or designated lifting eyes. Take only the load necessary to prevent sagging; do not fully lift engine unless required.
- Breaker bar: Use to loosen stubborn bolts. Apply slow steady pressure; do not use cheater pipes on short breaker bars — risk of bolt/head rounding.
- Impact gun: Good for removing rusted bolts. Use on lowest torque setting; always finish with torque wrench to OEM specification.
- Torque wrench: Set torque, tighten smoothly to stop. Use in stages. Re-check after initial run.
Common pitfalls & remedies
- Not supporting transmission/engine properly: can cause sudden drop or damage. Remedy: always use independent supports and jack stands.
- Reusing corroded/stretch bolts: leads to failure. Remedy: always replace badly corroded or torque-to-yield bolts.
- Breaking studs in bellhousing (aluminum): Common with seized studs. Remedy: apply penetrating oil, heat the surrounding area if safe, use stud extractor, or drill and use helicoil if needed. If unsure, stop and consult shop to avoid damaging bellhousing.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing: causes mount failure or elongation of holes. Remedy: use calibrated torque wrench and correct torque values.
- Incorrect alignment/preload: mounting with engine/transmission held in the wrong position can put torsion on driveline. Remedy: ensure correct static alignment before final torquing; use photographic references.
- Not replacing mounts in pairs (if multiple mounts are old): mixing new and very old mounts can transfer loads unevenly. Remedy: inspect all mounts and replace as needed.
- Using petroleum-based lubricants on rubber: causes premature rubber failure. Remedy: use soapy water or manufacturer-approved lubricant.
Replacement parts required
- New transmission/engine mount assembly (exact Perkins 400 series 403C/404C OEM or approved aftermarket part).
- New bolts/studs/washers as required (especially if rusted or stretch-type).
- Optional: threadlocker, anti-seize, stud-repair kit (helicoil) for stripped threads.
Post-replacement follow-up
- Re-torque after initial operation (recommended).
- Inspect for oil/fuel leaks that may have degraded the old mount.
- Monitor for vibration/noises over next few days; re-check hardware.
Note: Always verify bolt locations, sizes and torque figures in the Perkins 400-series workshop manual or the machine manufacturer’s service manual for the specific installation. Use the manual for lift points, torque specs, and any special procedures unique to the chassis/transmission model. rteeqp73
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