Tools & supplies
- 4-post lift or 2-post lift + jack stands (preferred). Wheel ramps acceptable only for simple checks.
- Alignment machine (recommended) or: toe plates or straight-edge + tape measure, camber/caster gauge or digital inclinometer, steering wheel holder.
- Slip plates or turntables for front wheels (for caster measurement).
- 1/2" and 3/8" drive ratchets, breaker bar, sockets, wrenches.
- Tie-rod end spanner, crescent wrench, and locking pliers.
- Torque wrench (range to at least 100 ft·lb).
- Camber/caster adjustment bolts or shims (if needed), replacement tie-rod ends, control-arm bushings, ball joints, strut mounts as required.
- Marker/chalk, pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Shop air and inflation gauge, tire pressure gauge.
- Safety glasses, gloves.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Use a lift or jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wheel chocks on rear wheels when working on one end.
- Support the vehicle at factory lift points.
- Don’t exceed jack/lift capacity. Wear PPE.
- After any suspension work, torque fasteners to factory specs and double-check.
- If components are badly worn or rusted, replace rather than try to adjust.

Quick overview of how alignment works on a MacPherson-strut Toyota (5S‑FE vehicles use a MacPherson front)
- Toe: typically adjusted at the tie-rod ends. Easy, large effect on tire wear and steering.
- Camber & caster: determined by strut-to-knuckle relationship. On many Toyota passenger cars these are not readily adjustable except via:
- eccentric/camber bolts at strut top or knuckle (if equipped),
- aftermarket adjustable camber bolts or strut top mounts,
- control arm position/shims, or
- bent/damaged parts (must be replaced).
- Rear: depends on model (torsion beam vs multi-link). Some rear toe/camber is adjustable; consult factory manual.

Pre-alignment inspection & preparation (do this first)
1. Inflate tires to specified pressure, including spare if used for load. Check tread and wear pattern.
2. Confirm correct vehicle ride height (measure from fender lip to wheel center and compare to spec). If springs or mounts are replaced, settle the car on wheels and bounce to seat springs.
3. Inspect: tie-rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar links, strut mounts, wheel bearings, steering rack boots. Replace any worn or loose parts — they will prevent or ruin an alignment.
4. Check steering play and correct endplay before aligning.
5. Ensure weight is representative (remove excess cargo, leave full-size spare in place if used by factory spec). Driver should not sit in car during measurement unless instructed by machine procedures.

Setup on the rack (or for a home setup)
1. Mount wheel clamps/sensor heads if using an alignment machine. Initialize machine per manufacturer.
2. If using manual methods: level the steering wheel, center by counting turns from stop to stop and setting to mid-point; lock in steering wheel with holder.
3. For toe plates/tape method: set steering straight, measure distance between front and rear faces of the rims at axle height (measure on left and right), record.

How to use common tools — basics
- Alignment machine: follow on-screen prompts. It measures camber, caster, toe, thrust angle. It will instruct which adjustments to make and by how much. Use slip plates for caster moves.
- Camber/caster gauge (digital inclinometer): attach to wheel hub or brake rotor face (clean surface). Zero on a true vertical reference or vehicle centerline, rotate wheel to ±20° to capture caster reading per gauge instructions. Camber: read with wheel straight ahead.
- Toe plates + tape: put identical plates against wheel faces; measure the distance between the plates at front and rear of rim at hub center height. Toe = (rear distance – front distance) / wheel separation width expressed in mm or inches; convert to degrees if desired: small toe in mm ~ 0.0175 × degrees × wheel diameter — simpler to use machine or convert tables.
- Tie-rod adjustment: loosen jam nut, rotate inner tie rod or outer to lengthen/shorten. One full turn is roughly 1–3 mm change in toe depending on steering rack pitch; count turns and adjust symmetrically as needed.

Step-by-step alignment procedure
1. Preliminary:
- Make sure vehicle is at correct ride height and tires at spec pressure.
- Ensure steering wheel centered (counted from lock-to-lock or use machine instructions).
2. Measure current alignment:
- On an alignment machine: perform measurement. Note front camber, caster, toe, and rear values and thrust line.
- Manual: measure camber with gauge; toe with plates or tape; measure thrust line by comparing centerlines.
3. Address worn parts:
- Replace any worn tie rods, ball joints, bushings, or bearings. Re-measure after replacements.
4. Adjust camber (if adjustable):
- If strut-top bolts are eccentric or you have camber bolts: loosen strut-to-knuckle bolts slightly and move strut in or out to achieve target camber. Use gauge to monitor while shifting. Tighten to factory torque while holding position.
- If no factory adjuster: install camber bolts or adjustable top mounts, or use control arm shims or adjustable control-arm bolts at subframe if available.
- Typical target: use factory specs — if unavailable use typical passenger-car fronts: camber around 0° to -1° (confirm exact).
5. Adjust caster (if adjustable):
- Many Toyotas allow small caster changes by moving strut knuckle fore/aft via eccentric bolts or control-arm position. Use alignment machine/caster gauge and slip plates. Adjust equally both sides if possible. If caster is out of spec and non-adjustable, replace bent parts or use aftermarket adjustable top mounts.
6. Adjust toe (final):
- Toe is the alignment you always finalize last.
- With steering straight and wheel holder installed, loosen tie-rod jam nuts.
- Rotate the inner tie rod to change length until toe matches spec on machine or toe-plate numbers.
- Keep steering wheel centered — equalize turn counts from baseline.
- Tighten jam nuts to factory torque.
- Re-check toe after torquing jam nuts in case of movement.
7. Check thrust angle and rear alignment:
- Adjust rear toe/camber per factory method (rear toe usually via eccentric bolts or adjustable link). Set thrust line parallel to vehicle centerline.
8. Re-check steering wheel position:
- If wheel off-center, correct by adjusting tie rods equally both sides to recenter while maintaining toe spec.
9. Road test & final re-check:
- Short road test (10–15 minutes) to let components settle.
- Re-check alignment readings and re-torque any hardware that was accessed.
- Verify no odd steering behavior or pulls.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Trying to align with worn components — replace before aligning.
- Not setting correct ride height — camber and toe readings change with height.
- Forgetting to center steering wheel before toe adjustment — results in off-center wheel after alignment.
- Adjusting one end and not re-checking the other — always remeasure after each change.
- Over-tightening camber bolts without holding position — you'll change camber when torquing.
- Using incorrect specs — always reference the specific model-year factory alignment specs.
- Not checking rear alignment/thrust angle — causes steering pull even with correct front numbers.
- Ignoring tire wear pattern — uneven wear indicates suspension/specific problem that must be fixed first.

Replacement parts frequently needed on 5S‑FE cars during alignment
- Outer and inner tie-rod ends.
- Front lower control arm bushings/outer ball joints.
- Strut mounts/top mounts (bearings).
- Camber bolts or adjustable top mounts (if you need adjustability).
- Wheel bearings (if play detected).
- Rear toe adjustment shims or multi-link bushings depending on rear suspension type.

Example typical spec ranges (use factory manual to confirm exact values for your year/model)
- Front camber: roughly 0.0° to -1.0°
- Front caster: roughly +2.0° to +4.0°
- Front toe: 0.00° to 0.10° toe-in (or 0–3 mm total)
- Rear toe: usually slight toe-in; thrust angle near 0.0°
Important: These are approximate. Consult a Toyota factory manual or dealership for exact numbers for the specific year/model of 5S‑FE car.

Final notes
- Best result: use a calibrated 4-wheel alignment machine.
- If you lack a machine and must DIY, be conservative: aim for neutral camber and minimal toe-in, replace worn parts first, and verify with a competent shop eventually.
- Tighten all fasteners to factory torque specs and replace any damaged eccentric/camber bolts.

No extra chatter — follow the above checklist and consult the factory service manual for your exact model-year Toyota 5S‑FE vehicle for precise torque and alignment specs.
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