Tools & consumables you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: 10–19 mm sockets, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches, Phillips/flat screwdrivers, long needle-nose pliers.
- Snap‑ring/circlip pliers.
- Punches (small and medium) and drift hammer or rubber mallet.
- Floor jack + 2 quality jack stands (or a lift). Wheel chocks.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent).
- Small bench vise or bushing driver set (or socket that fits bushing OD).
- Torque wrench.
- Grease: lithium or moly paste.
- Replacement parts: shift linkage bushings (pivot bushings), shift cable(s) or linkage rod ends, retaining clips/cotter pins, rubber boots, and any bracket bolts if corroded. Get a linkage/clutch cable kit specific to your Toyota model (5S‑FE was fitted to Camry/Celica; exact parts depend on year/transmission).
- Optional: pick set, pry bar, work light, rags, gloves, safety glasses.

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface, chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you’ll be working near electrical components or removing the center console wiring.
- Always support the vehicle with jack stands — never rely on the jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Use penetration lubricant to reduce chance of breaking clip/bolt.
- Don’t go under the vehicle until stable on stands.

Summary of repair tasks covered
- Diagnose worn linkage (sloppy shifting, missed gears, hard selection).
- Remove interior shifter access to inspect and remove cables/rod ends.
- Replace pivot bushings and cable ends or entire cables if worn.
- Reassemble, adjust linkage to proper neutral alignment, test.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Diagnose & prepare
- Park car on level ground, chock wheels, put transmission in neutral (manual) or PARK (auto) for initial work.
- Raise front of car and support on jack stands so you can access the trans cable connection. Remove center console / shifter boot and trim to expose shifter housing and cable ends.
- Inspect: play at the shifter, sloppy side‑to‑side movement, torn rubber boots, flared cable ends, split bushings, missing clips.

2) Access linkage underhood/underbody
- For manual transmissions you’ll access the selector linkage/cables at the transmission’s shift lever area; for automatics you’ll find a shift cable connected to a bracket/lever on the trans top/rear.
- Clean the area and apply penetrating oil to nuts, bolts, and clips on the cable bracket or pivot. Let soak.

3) Remove cable ends / linkage from shifter and transmission
- Inside: remove retaining clips or cotter pins that hold the cable end to the shifter lever. Pry out the cable ball from the shifter cup (note orientation).
- Underbody: remove the cable bracket bolts that secure the cable to the transmission housing. Remove the rubber grommet/boot if present and slide cable end free. Support the cable so it doesn’t snag.
- If the pivot is held by a circlip/snap ring, remove it with snap‑ring pliers. Use a punch to drive the pivot out if it’s pressed in.

How the tools are used
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress and remove circlips that retain pivot shafts or bushings.
- Punch/hammer: drift out old pressed‑in bushings or pivot shafts. Use a suitably sized punch on the inner lip to avoid housing damage; protect surfaces with slight tap pressure.
- Bench vise/bushing driver or a socket: press in new bushings squarely — use the outer diameter as driver contact to avoid deforming the bushing.
- Penetrating oil + ratchet/wrenches: break free corroded bolts and nuts.
- Torque wrench: tighten bracket bolts to manufacturer spec after reassembly.

4) Remove and inspect pivot bushings & link rods
- Remove the shift lever pivot shaft or rod. Pull out old bushings. Inspect the lever, bellcrank and mating surfaces for wear or ovalization.
- If bushings are ruined or chewed up, replace with OEM or quality aftermarket bushings. If pivot shaft is scored, replace it.

5) Install new bushings and linkage parts
- Clean bore and lever with solvent. Lightly grease the bushing ID and bore with lithium or moly grease.
- Use a bushing driver or socket sized to the bushing OD to press the new bushings evenly into place. Don’t hammer on the inner lip.
- Reinsert pivot shaft. Fit any retaining clip/circlip and ensure it seats in the groove.
- Replace any worn rod ends, cable boots, and clips. Replace the entire cable if the jacket or inner wire is frayed, kinked, or binding.

6) Reattach cable ends to transmission and shifter
- Reinstall the cable onto the transmission's selector lever. Secure bracket bolts finger tight first, then torque to spec (consult service manual).
- Attach the interior cable end to the shifter—ensure the cable ball sits fully in the shifter cup and clip/cotter pin is correctly installed.

7) Adjust linkage (critical)
Manual transmission general adjustment:
- With the transmission in neutral (verify by rotate selector by hand at trans if necessary) and the shifter in neutral, adjust the cable adjuster (usually a threaded stud with two jam nuts) until there is no slack but the shifter moves freely through gates. Tighten jam nuts.
- Verify each gear engagement: engine off, clutch depressed for manual, select 1→2→3→4→5→R. If any gear is hard or doesn't engage, back off adjuster slightly to add small play and recheck.

Automatic transmission general adjustment (if applicable):
- Place shifter in PARK (or required gear per service manual), lock the transmission in the corresponding detent (some models have a lock pin procedure). Adjust cable so trans selector pin/slot aligns with cable indicator; tighten bracket bolts. Always follow the exact method in the factory manual for your model-year.

8) Reassemble interior and verify
- Reinstall shifter boot, console panels, and any removed trim. Reconnect battery negative if disconnected.
- With vehicle still lifted, have an assistant cycle the shifter through all positions while you watch the transmission linkage movement; ensure smooth, full travel and no binding.
- Lower vehicle. Start engine and do a short road test to confirm crisp shifting, no missed gears, and that reverse selection is accurate. For automatics ensure trans goes into each gear and P/R/N/D selections match.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing bad bushings: old rubber or nylon bushings often hide the problem; always replace if play is present.
- Improper seating of cable ball into shifter cup: results in slop — ensure clip/cotter is fully seated.
- Over‑tightening adjusters: leads to restricted travel and hard shifts. Adjust to remove excessive play only.
- Not supporting vehicle safely: always jack on specified jacking points and use stands.
- Not replacing corroded small parts: cheap clips and pins can break during service — replace them.
- Forgetting to grease new bushings: dry bushings wear quickly and feel notchy.
- Misalignment during reassembly: ensure shifter and transmission are both in neutral before tightening adjusters.

When to replace the entire cable or assembly
- Cable inner wire fraying, kinking or excessive corrosion.
- Cable jacket split or cable binding.
- Pivot shaft severely scored or lever worn beyond repair.
- Replacing bushings doesn’t restore positive gear selection.

Final checks
- Confirm all fasteners are torqued (use OEM specs).
- Verify no leftover parts, loose clips or tools under console.
- Road test covering all gears and confirm no unusual noises or slop.

Parts to buy (typical)
- Shift linkage bushing kit (pivot bushings, retaining clips).
- Shift cable(s) or linkage rod ends (OEM part numbers for your model year).
- New cotter pins/clips, rubber boots, grease.

End.
rteeqp73

1994 Toyota Camry 5SFE SXV10 Exhaust setup Recently upgraded the exhaust of my 1994 Toyota Camry. It's a 4cyl with the 5SFE. I upped the stock piping to 2.25" and cut the ...

toyota 5s-fe engine

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