Short, practical workshop guide for a transmission fluid change on a Toyota Hilux (covers both Automatic and Manual gearboxes, plus 4WD transfer case and diffs). Written for a beginner mechanic — what parts do, why they matter, what can go wrong, and clear step-by-step procedures. Read the vehicle service manual for your exact model/year for fluid specs, capacities and torque values before starting.

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Use wheel chocks.
- Never rely on a jack alone — use quality jack stands or ramps rated for the truck’s weight.
- Wear gloves, safety glasses and protective clothes.
- Transmission fluid is hot after running — let the engine/transmission cool enough to work safely.
- Dispose of old fluid responsibly at an approved recycling facility.

Why change transmission fluid (theory)
- Transmission fluid lubricates gears and bearings, carries hydraulic pressure (in automatics), cools components and supplies friction characteristics for clutch packs and synchronizers.
- Over time fluid oxidizes, loses detergency and friction properties, and becomes contaminated with metal particles and clutch/fiber debris. This reduces cooling and lubrication, causes slippage, harsh shifts, accelerated wear, and can eventually ruin the transmission.
- Analogy: fluid is to the transmission what oil is to an engine — but in an automatic it’s also the hydraulic "blood" that makes shifting happen. Dirty blood = poor performance and faster wear.

Main components you’ll encounter (what they do)
- Transmission housing / case: metal shell that contains gearsets, shafts, valve body, pump and fluid.
- Torque converter (automatic): fluid coupling between engine and transmission, transmits torque and multiplies it at low speed; contains pump, turbine and stator.
- Pump (internal): pressurizes fluid for hydraulic circuits (automatic).
- Valve body (automatic): maze of passages and valves that routes pressurized fluid to actuate clutches and bands — controls shift timing.
- Clutch packs/friction plates (automatic): engage planetary gear elements for gear ratios.
- Planetary gearset (automatic): produces gear ratios.
- Gearset & synchronizers (manual): mechanical gears providing ratios; synchronizers match speeds for smooth engagement.
- Input/output shafts and bearings: transfer torque in/out.
- Transmission pan (automatic): holds fluid at bottom; pan bolts to case. Often houses a magnetic area.
- Filter (automatic): paper/screen that traps debris.
- Magnet (inside pan): attracts metal particles.
- Drain plug / fill plug: access points to remove and add fluid (manuals/transfer/diffs) or drain plugs on pans (some automatics).
- Dipstick / level plug: for checking/setting ATF level (on some transmissions).
- Transfer case (4WD): contains chain/gears to drive front and rear outputs; has its own fluid and fill/drain plugs.
- Differential (front/rear axles): contains ring & pinion gears, spider gears; requires gear oil and has fill/drain plugs.
- Seals/gaskets/crush washers: prevent leaks. Many are one-time-use.

Tools & supplies
- Service manual (model/year) for specs and torque values.
- Ramps or jack + stands, wheel chocks.
- Socket/ratchet set, wrenches; long extensions.
- Torque wrench (essential).
- Drain pan (large), collection containers.
- Funnel and flexible hose or fluid transfer pump (for filling).
- New filter and pan gasket (automatic), filter O-rings if applicable.
- New fluid (correct type and amount). Common Toyota ATFs: Type T-IV (older) or WS (newer) — check manual. Manual gearboxes often use GL-4 gear oil 75W-90 or manufacturer specified gradings. Differentials often GL-5 75W-90. Use manufacturer spec.
- New crush washer for drain plugs (if applicable).
- Gasket scraper, solvent/rags, gloves.
- Clean shop light and protective cardboard/cloth to lay under vehicle.

Procedure A — Automatic transmission: drain, filter and refill (typical pan drop method)
Note: Some automatics have no dipstick and must be filled with the engine running at operating temp via a fill/check plug — follow manual.

1) Warm up and prepare
- Run engine briefly (5–10 minutes) to warm fluid so it drains easier; don’t overheat.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. Put in Park (or neutral if manual).
- Raise vehicle and support on stands/ramps. Ensure secure access to pan and fill/dipstick.

2) Locate pan and drain
- Many Toyota Hilux automatics have no dedicated drain plug on the pan — you remove pan bolts to let fluid flow out. If there is a drain plug, use it and save a mess.
- Place drain pan under transmission. Loosen pan bolts evenly but don’t remove them all at once; loosen corner bolts last to let pan lip seal break gradually to control spill.
- Carefully lower one corner or fully remove pan and allow fluid to drain into pan. Expect several liters.

3) Remove and inspect
- With pan off, observe magnet(s) — wipe metal filings off magnet (some dark sludgy bits are normal, big chunks or lots of shiny large flakes indicate abnormal wear).
- Remove old filter (usually held by a couple of bolts or push-fit). Note orientation and seal. Discard old filter.

4) Clean pan and surfaces
- Scrape old gasket material from pan and case flange. Clean pan thoroughly with solvent and rags; remove sludge and old gasket.
- Fit new pan gasket (or apply sealant per manual).

5) Install new filter and re-fit pan
- Fit new filter with new O-ring if supplied; torque bolts to spec.
- Refit pan and bolts hand tight, then torque in a cross pattern to the service manual torque value. Do not overtighten — pan bolts are small and can strip.

6) Refill with correct ATF
- Lower vehicle to level ground (or keep level on stands).
- Use funnel or pump to add fluid through dipstick tube or fill plug. If your transmission has no dipstick, add through fill plug location (consult manual).
- Start with the recommended capacity minus what was drained (service manual gives exact amount). Often do a partial fill then check level.

7) Check temperature/level and run
- Start engine, cycle through gears (P, R, N, D, L) to circulate fluid, with foot on brake.
- With engine idling and transmission at operating temperature (service manual indicates target temp or allow ~warm), check fluid level per manual procedure — usually with engine running and fluid warm. On many transmissions, correct level is at dipstick “HOT” mark; on sealed ones, add fluid until it drips from the fill hole with engine idling and at temp.
- Re-check for leaks.

8) Test drive and final check
- Drive gently, cycle through shifts. Recheck fluid level and for leaks after 10–50 km. Re-torque pan bolts after initial heat cycles if manual suggests.

Common automatic pitfalls and what can go wrong
- Wrong fluid type: can cause slipping, poor shift quality, and damage. Always use manufacturer-specified fluid.
- Overfilling or underfilling: both cause problems. Overfill can cause aeration; underfill causes erratic shifting and overheating.
- Cross-threading drain/fill plugs or over-torquing pan bolts: damages threads or warps pan.
- Not replacing filter/gasket properly: leads to contamination and leaks.
- Large metal chunks on magnet: sign of serious internal damage — stop and inspect further.
- Not warming fluid before checking level: gives wrong reading.

Procedure B — Manual transmission (gearbox) fluid change
1) Prep vehicle as above (level, chocked, safe support).
2) Locate drain plug and fill plug on the side/bottom of the gearbox.
3) Place drain pan, remove drain plug and allow oil to drain fully. Remove and replace crush washer if fitted.
4) Inspect drain plug for metal filings; some small particles are normal.
5) Refit drain plug and torque to manual spec.
6) Remove fill plug and refill through fill hole with recommended gear oil (fill until fluid reaches bottom of fill hole — i.e., just starts to dribble out). That’s the correct level.
7) Refit fill plug with new crush washer if applicable and torque.
8) Road test and check for leaks.

Manual pitfalls
- Overfilling manual gearbox is less likely to be an issue if you fill to fill-hole level, but never fill past that.
- Using the wrong oil (e.g., ATF instead of gear oil) can cause inadequate lubrication of bearings and synchronizers. Use what manual specifies (GL-4 vs GL-5 matters to some synchronizers).
- Cross-threading fill/drain plugs.

Procedure C — Transfer case (4WD) fluid change
- Transfer case has drain and fill plugs. Warm slightly, support vehicle, remove drain plug and drain.
- Replace drain plug/crush washer and refill via fill plug until fluid seeps from the fill hole.
- Replace fill plug and torque to spec.
- Note: Some transfer cases are chain-driven; large amounts of metal or heavy particles indicate internal wear.

Procedure D — Differential fluid change (front and rear axles)
- Remove differential cover or drain plug (if present). If cover removed, inspect gear teeth and replace cover gasket.
- Drain, inspect magnet (if fitted) or drain plug for metal.
- Refit drain plug or gasket, refill until level reaches bottom of fill hole.
- On pinion seals: if you notice external leaks, inspect and replace seals if needed.

General tips and best practices
- Always use new crush washers and gaskets as required.
- Keep work area clean; dirt is contaminant #1.
- Label and count bolts; keep bolts in order when removing pan.
- Collect used fluid and filters for recycling.
- If you see black/burnt-smelling fluid (especially in ATF), heavy clutch material or metallic flakes, this is a red flag: consult a professional or service manual for diagnosis before continuing operation.
- Replace the transmission filter every time you drop the pan (for automatics) or per the service schedule.
- Consider performing a fluid and filter change more frequently if the vehicle carries heavy loads/tows or does lots of off-road driving.

Maintenance intervals (typical ranges — check your manual)
- Automatic transmission fluid: factory ranges vary widely (60,000–100,000 km for “lifetime” claims) — for severe use replace at 30k–60k km.
- Manual gearbox: 50k–100k km.
- Transfer case & diffs: 50k–100k km; sooner under severe/off-road use.

What to watch for after a service
- Leaks at pan, plugs or axle seals.
- Transmission slipping, harsh or delayed shifts (automatic) — could be wrong fluid, wrong level or air in system.
- Noisy differential or gearbox — insufficient fluid or contamination.
- Excessive metal in drained fluid — sign of abnormal wear; investigate.

When to get professional help
- Large metal chunks in pan/filter or heavy metallic contamination.
- Persistent slipping or inability to get correct fluid level.
- If the transmission requires a factory scan/tool to set levels or bleed hydraulic circuits (some modern automatics).
- If you’re unsure about torque specs or correct service procedure for your exact model.

Summary (short)
- Identify whether you have manual or automatic and whether the Hilux is 2WD or 4WD (4WD adds transfer case and front diff service).
- Use the correct fluid and parts from the service manual.
- Warm, raise safely, drain, replace filter/gasket (ATF), refill to correct level at operating temperature.
- Watch for abnormal metal, leaks, or wrong fluid symptoms. Dispose of fluid properly.

No matter how confident you feel, follow the service manual for your Hilux model/year for the exact fill volumes, fluid spec and torque values. If you run into abnormal signs (lots of bright metal, burnt smell, or persistent leaks), stop and consult a professional.
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