Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + jack stands or a 2-post lift. Wheel chocks.
- Drain pan (large, low-profile) and rags.
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions.
- Torque wrench (0–150 N·m range).
- Screwdrivers, hex/Allen set (if required by pan bolts).
- Gasket scraper / soft brass brush.
- Pick or small hook for O‑rings.
- Funnel and fluid pump (squeeze or hand pump) for refilling.
- New transmission filter (OEM or equivalent) and pan gasket (or gasket maker if applicable).
- New crush washer for drain plug (if fitted).
- ATF specified for your Hilux (check model/year — Toyota WS or Dexron type as applicable).
- Gloves, safety glasses, shop towels, container for used fluid.
- Clean magnet/parts tray for bolts & small parts.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake. If lifting, use rated jack and always support on jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- Transmission fluid can be hot. Allow transmission to cool if recently driven.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Avoid skin contact; ATF is toxic.
- Dispose of used ATF and contaminated rags per local regulations.

Quick notes before starting
- This procedure describes replacement of the automatic transmission pan filter (typical Hilux automatic). If your Hilux is manual or has a “sealed” transmission with no serviceable dipstick/fill, follow the factory service manual — fill method and capacity differ.
- Always verify exact torque specs, fluid type and fill procedure for your model/year in the Toyota workshop manual. I give general steps and guidance here.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Warm the vehicle briefly (drive 5–10 minutes) to bring ATF to moderate temp — makes drainage easier. Turn off engine and let it sit a few minutes to avoid scalding.
2. Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
3. Lift vehicle and support securely on jack stands (front and rear if needed) so you can access the transmission pan. Ensure vehicle is stable.
4. Place drain pan under the transmission pan. If there is a drain plug, remove the drain plug first to drain most fluid. If no drain plug, loosen pan bolts slowly (do not remove all at once) to allow fluid to drip into pan.
5. If pan bolts are tight, break them loose with appropriate socket. Loosen bolts about 2–3 full turns leaving two opposite bolts partly threaded to act as hinges so the pan can be lowered controlably.
6. Carefully lower the pan: as the pan tilts, ATF will drain. Tip pan slowly and keep your hands clear — fluid will pour out. Collect all fluid in the drain pan.
7. Remove remaining pan bolts and remove pan. Set bolts in a tray and note any that are different lengths/locations.
8. Inspect and remove any magnetic plug(s) or magnets in the pan. Clean the pan and magnets with clean rag — remove metal flakes. Use solvent only if needed and ensure pan is dry.
9. Locate the transmission filter (usually a plastic or metal assembly attached to the valve body with 2–3 bolts or simply push-fit). Remove the filter retaining bolts or disengage clips. Pull filter straight down — expect more fluid to drain.
10. Inspect the filter mating surface and valve body opening for old gasket material, O‑rings, or debris. Use a gasket scraper carefully: do not gouge sealing surfaces.
11. If the filter has an O‑ring or a gasket on the filter neck, replace it. Remove old O‑rings and replace with new ones supplied with the filter (lubricate new O‑rings with clean ATF before installation).
12. Fit new filter into place. If it uses bolts, tighten them finger tight, then torque to spec (consult manual). Typical bolt torque is low — verify exact value.
13. Replace pan gasket: either fit a new cork/rubber gasket or apply gasket maker if that’s the OEM method. If using a new gasket, align it to the pan. For reusable metal pans that require sealant, apply a thin bead as per manual and avoid excess that can enter transmission.
14. Clean pan bolt threads and holes (remove debris). Reinstall pan making sure gasket is seated evenly. Hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
15. Torque pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern gradually to the specified torque. (Typical pan bolt torque on many Toyotas is low — consult manual; as a guideline some Toyota pan bolts are torqued ~7–10 N·m, but check your model.)
16. If removed, reinstall drain plug with new crush washer and torque to spec (commonly higher than pan bolts — check manual; a common range for drain plug is 20–40 N·m depending on design).
17. Lower the vehicle sufficiently to access the transmission dipstick/fill tube (or follow service fill location). Clean the dipstick.
18. Refill ATF: add fluid via dipstick tube using a funnel or fluid pump. Add initial amount roughly equal to the fluid drained plus an estimated 1–2 L for trapped fluid (typical pan/filter change will require about 3–5 L to refill but total system capacity is larger). Stop before overfilling — you will check level properly below.
19. Start engine and let idle. With parking brake on and wheels blocked, cycle gear selector slowly through each gear position (P→R→N→D→etc) pausing a few seconds in each to circulate fluid and purge air. Return to P (or N as per manual) to check level.
20. With engine idling and at specified temperature (factory manual often requires checking ATF level at operating temp ~35–50°C), check fluid level on dipstick. Add fluid slowly until level is within the hot range marks. Avoid overfilling.
21. Inspect for leaks around pan, drain plug, filter area while engine idles and while driving.
22. Road test the vehicle, cycle through gears under light load, then recheck ATF level after the test and top up if necessary.
23. Clean up, record amount of ATF used, and dispose of old ATF and filter responsibly.

How each tool is used (practical notes)
- Floor jack & stands: lift and support vehicle safely. Place stands under factory jacking points or crossmember — never under oil pan.
- Drain pan: capture fluid and avoid spills. Use low-profile pan for close-clearance vehicles.
- Socket/ratchet and extensions: remove pan bolts and filter bolts. Use correct socket size to avoid rounding bolt heads.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts to specification and in sequence. Prevents leaking and warping of pan.
- Gasket scraper: remove old gasket material. Use plastic/wood first to avoid surface damage; brass or plastic scraper preferred.
- Funnel/pump: to refill without spillage. A pump speeds filling through dipstick tube.
- Pick/hook: remove old O‑rings without cutting the sealing surface.
- Clean rags and magnets: remove metal shavings; magnets show wear severity.

Replacement parts typically required
- Transmission filter (OEM or equivalent).
- Pan gasket or RTV gasket maker (as specified).
- Drain plug crush washer (if applicable).
- New ATF — volume depends on model; have more fluid on hand than drained amount.
- Optional: new pan bolts if damaged, new pan if cracked.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting vehicle safely — always use stands and chocks.
- Removing pan without controlled lowering — fluid will gush; loosen in a controlled manner and use a catch pan.
- Reusing old filter gasket/O‑rings — always replace seals to avoid leaks and contamination.
- Not cleaning magnets/pan — metal debris left behind accelerates wear.
- Over-tightening pan bolts — causes warping or stripped threads. Use torque wrench and sequence.
- Overfilling or checking level at wrong temperature/engine off — follow correct temp and engine running conditions per manual.
- Using wrong ATF type — use the fluid specification for your Hilux year/model (Toyota WS, Dexron, etc).
- Reusing old crush washer or failing to tighten drain plug to spec — leads to leaks.
- Allowing foreign debris into transmission when working — keep work area clean and caps on fluid bottles.

Final checks
- No leaks at pan or drain plug.
- ATF at correct level and color/condition normal.
- Smooth shifting and no unusual noises. Record service date, parts used, and mileage.

End.
rteeqp73

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