Chevrolet Aveo T200 factory workshop and repair manual

- Safety first
- Work on a cold engine, parked on level ground with parking brake set and wheels chocked.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect from slips, sharp edges and dirt.
- If you are uncomfortable at any point, stop and get professional help.

- What this job is and when it’s required
- Replacing the serpentine (drive) belt restores drive to alternator, power steering, A/C and water pump (depending on engine). Replace if the belt has cracks, glazing, missing ribs, fraying, or if it squeals.
- While replacing the belt you should inspect the tensioner and idler pulleys — noisy or loose pulleys need replacing because a bad pulley will quickly ruin a new belt.

- Tools you probably already have (detailed description + how to use each)
- Socket set with ratchet (3/8" and/or 1/2" drive) and metric sockets
- Description: ratchet handle with removable sockets sized to fit hex bolts. Metric sizes on newer Chevrolets.
- How to use: fit the correct socket onto the ratchet, place on the fastener, pull the ratchet handle to turn. Use 3/8" drive for most light automotive work; 1/2" drive or a breaker bar gives more leverage for stuck bolts.
- Why it’s needed: a socket and ratchet are used to turn the belt tensioner or remove any covers or splash shields.
- Long-handled wrench or breaker bar (box-end wrench or 1/2" drive breaker bar)
- Description: a long solid wrench or bar for greater leverage than a short ratchet.
- How to use: place the box end on the tensioner bolt and pull to rotate the tensioner; long handle reduces effort and avoids having the ratchet slip.
- Why it’s needed: some tensioners require more leverage than a short ratchet provides.
- Serpentine belt tool / thin 12–18" long 3/8" drive breaker/ratchet (if available)
- Description: a slimmer specialty tool with a low-profile head designed to reach tensioner bolts in tight spaces.
- How to use: attach socket to the tool, reach into tight area, rotate the tensioner to release tension.
- Why it’s useful: the engine bay on an Aveo can be tight; a long, thin tool makes access much easier and safer.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: open-end on one side, box-end on the other; handy where a socket won’t fit.
- How to use: use the box end for more secure grip on a bolt head, the open end for quick turns in tight spaces.
- Why it’s needed: sometimes the tensioner or accessories are only reachable with a wrench.
- Flat-blade screwdriver or small pry bar
- Description: flat metal tool for prying or aligning.
- How to use: gently pry pulleys or help position the belt; do not lever against bearings.
- Why it’s useful: helps nudge the belt onto a pulley or lever a plastic cover off.
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Description: bright handheld light or head-mounted lamp.
- How to use: illuminate the belt path and tensioner area so you can see ribs and pulley grooves clearly.
- Why it’s needed: the belt route and tensioner are often in shadow.
- Gloves and safety glasses (already noted)
- Description: mechanic gloves and safety eyewear.
- How to use: wear them throughout the job.
- Optional but recommended: jack and jack stands or ramps
- Description: hydraulic jack and sturdy stands or vehicle ramps.
- How to use: raise the front of the car safely, support on stands/ramps; never rely on the jack alone.
- Why it’s needed: some Aveo models have easier access from below; if access is tight from the top, lifting the car helps.
- Optional but helpful: digital camera or phone
- Description: any camera to record the old belt routing.
- How to use: take a clear picture of the belt routing before removal.
- Why it’s useful: confirms routing if the belt diagram label is missing.

- Extra/purchase tools you might need (why required)
- Serpentine belt tool set (if your ratchet is too bulky)
- Why: built to reach tight tensioners and safe to use without slipping.
- New serpentine belt (required)
- Why: the old belt is being removed; if the old one is worn, it must be replaced. Always install a correctly sized, vehicle-specific belt.
- Replacement tensioner or idler pulley (only if inspection shows wear)
- Why: a weak tensioner or bad pulley will shorten belt life and cause noise or failure. Replace if bearing is noisy, pulley wobbles, or tensioner does not hold tension.

- Parts to buy / how to identify what you need
- New belt specified for “Chevrolet Aveo T200� and your engine (check year and engine size; parts counter or online parts lookup will confirm correct belt).
- Optional: tensioner assembly and idler pulley(s) — buy the OE or a high-quality aftermarket brand if inspection shows wear.
- Buy a belt that matches the exact rib count and length listed for your model — belt packaging or parts lookup tools will match by year/engine/VIN.

- How to inspect the belt and pulleys before removing (what to look for)
- Belt surface: look for cracks across ribs, deep grooves, fraying at edges, missing chunks, shiny glazing (smooth and glossy) or oil contamination.
- Ribs: check the ribbed side for chunks missing or separation between ribs.
- Pulleys and tensioner: spin by hand (with engine off) to check for smoothness; listen for grinding, feel for wobble; check tensioner arm for free play.
- If any of the above problems exist, plan to replace the belt plus any defective pulley/tensioner.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullets, concise)
- Prepare workspace: chock wheels, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery terminal if you want extra safety against accidental starts.
- Locate belt routing: find the belt routing diagram under the hood (sticker) or take a clear photo; if none present, draw the routing before removal.
- Expose tensioner: remove any plastic engine covers or splash shields that block access (use sockets or screws as required).
- Relieve belt tension: place the correct socket or wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt, rotate the tensioner to reduce belt tension (direction varies — usually rotate toward the engine to relieve tension), then slip the belt off a convenient pulley while holding the tensioner.
- Remove old belt: carefully release the tensioner back, then remove the belt from all pulleys.
- Inspect pulleys and tensioner: spin each idler and accessory pulley by hand, check tensioner spring action; if noisy/wobbly, replace that component.
- Fit new belt: route the new belt around the pulleys following the diagram, leaving the easiest-to-remove pulley (often the alternator or A/C) for last. Ensure ribs seat into pulley grooves and belt is not twisted.
- Re-apply tension: rotate the tensioner again to let the belt slip over the final pulley, then slowly release tensioner so it applies tension to the new belt.
- Double-check routing and seating: visually confirm the belt sits squarely in every pulley groove and follows the diagram.
- Reinstall covers and reconnect battery: put back any removed covers or shields and reconnect the negative battery terminal if disconnected.
- Start engine and observe: start the car and listen for unusual squeals; watch belt alignment for a few seconds to ensure it tracks properly. Turn off engine and re-check belt tension/position after a short drive.

- How to use the main tools during the job (quick practical notes)
- Ratchet/socket: firmly seat the socket on the tensioner bolt; use steady pressure — do not yank. Keep other hand clear of pulleys.
- Breaker bar/long wrench: position the box end squarely on the bolt; use the long handle to reduce force needed. Pull smoothly rather than jerking.
- Pry bar/screwdriver: only use to nudge the belt into position; do not pry on pulley bearings.
- Jack and stands: raise safely using pinch weld or recommended lift points, place stands under solid frame points, lower car onto stands before crawling under.

- When you must replace other parts and why
- Tensioner replacement
- Replace if the tensioner arm does not spring back firmly, the pulley bearing is noisy, or the tensioner has visible wear.
- Why: maintains correct belt tension; a failing tensioner causes slippage, squeal, and premature belt failure.
- Idler pulley replacement
- Replace if wobble, roughness, or noise on spin test.
- Why: bearing failure will damage a new belt quickly.
- Accessories (alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pulley)
- Replace only if those components are faulty; a seized accessory will break the belt immediately.

- Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Not noting belt routing — always photograph or draw the path first.
- Using wrong belt size — confirm fitment before installation.
- Releasing tensioner suddenly — control release to avoid snapping or injury.
- Ignoring pulleys/tensioner — replace worn parts rather than only the belt.

- Final checks and testing
- Confirm belt alignment and seating on all pulleys visually.
- Start engine, watch belt run for 30–60 seconds, listen for squeal or chirp; if present, turn off engine and re-check alignment and tensioner.
- After a short test drive, re-inspect belt tension and pulley operation.

- If you want the simplest shopping list for a first-timer
- New serpentine belt correct for your Aveo T200 (verify year/engine)
- Basic metric socket set (3/8" drive recommended) and a 1/2" breaker bar or long-handled wrench
- Serpentine belt tool (low-profile) if access is tight
- Gloves, safety glasses, flashlight
- Optional: replacement tensioner/idler if inspection shows wear

- Final straight-to-the-point advice
- Replace the belt; inspect and replace the tensioner/idler only if they show wear. Use a long-handled wrench or dedicated serpentine tool to release the tensioner safely and follow the belt routing exactly. If anything feels stuck or risky, stop and have a shop finish it.


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