General Information
Engine Mechanical
Engine Lubrication System
Engine Cooling System
Engine Control System
Fuel System
Exhaust System
Starting System
Accelerator Control System
Clutch
Transaxle & Transmission
Driveline
Front Axle
Rear Axle
Front Suspension
Rear Suspension
Road Wheels & Tires
Brake System
Parking Brake System
Brake Control System
Steering System
Steering Control System
Seat Belt
Seat Belt Control System
SRS Airbag
SRS Airbag Control System
Ventilation System
Heater & Air Conditioning System
Heater & Air Conditioning Control System
Interior
Instrument Panel
Seat
Door & Lock
Security Control System
Glass & Window System
Power Window Control System
Mirrors
Exterior Lighting System
Interior Lighting System
Wiper & Washer
Defogger
Horn
Power Outlet
Body Control System
LAN System
LAN System (LHD)
LAN System (RHD)
Power Control System
Charging System
Power Supply, Ground & Circuit Elements
Meter, Warning Lanp & Indicator
Warning Chime System
Audio, Visual & Navigation System
About the Nissan X-Trail T-31
The Nissan X-Trail is a compact crossover SUV produced by the Japanese automaker Nissan since 2001. It was one of Nissan's first crossover SUVs and was released about the same time as several other companies competing car-based compact SUVs including the Suzuki Grand Vitara, Ford Getaway and the Mazda Tribute sibling, the Hyundai Tucson, Honda CR-V and the Toyota RAV4. The X-Trail is positioned below the truck-based Xterra and Pathfinder and had been never offered by dealerships in the United States. The first generation was available in Canada until it was replaced by the Rogue. However, both the the X-Trail and Rogue are sold in Mexico. The Rogue shares the same platform as the second-generation X-Trail and is really similar to the Qashqai.The X-Trail's All-Mode 4x4 transmission transfer case enables the driver to select between 2WD, 4WD or 4WD Lock through an electronic switch on the dashboard. The company currently offers a hydrogen fuel cell model called the X-Trail FCV on lease to businesses.The main production plant of the X-Trail is in Kanda, Fukuoka, Japan; though parts and engines that are produced in Japan are additionally assembled by other Nissan plants in numerous countries.The first-generation X-Trail makes use of the Nissan FF-S system, shared with the Nissan Almera and the Nissan Primera. The X-Trail was sold in Canada for the 2005 and 2006 model years (but Nissan Canada continued to market the X-Trail until 2007), and in Mexico since 2003. The X-Trail has been sold in the Philippines since mid-2003, and received facelifts in early 2005 and May 2007. In the United Kingdom the first-generation car was available in SE+, S and Sport between launch and 2004. The trim levels were then revised to SE, Sport, SVE and T-Spec. At this point all models were equipped with full electrical electricity, windows adjustable door mirrors (on SVE & T-Spec they are electrically folding additionally), climate control, unmarried CD player, 4 airbags and remote central locking. The trim levels were once again revised in 2006. Nissan is nevertheless selling the Nissan X-Trail T30 model in some countries, where it is called the Nissan X-Trail Classic. In 2007 the Yulon manufactured model version got a facelift.
- Safety and overview
- Work in a well-ventilated area, wear nitrile gloves and eye protection, have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- The Nissan X‑Trail T31 (drive‑by‑wire throttle) uses an electronic throttle body; the goal here is cleaning and simple inspection, not internal electronics repair.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging electrical connectors to avoid shorts and unintended actuator movement. Wait 5–10 minutes after disconnecting to let capacitors discharge.
- Basic tools you need (descriptions and how to use them)
- Ratchet and socket set (metric): used to remove bolts and clamps. Pick a 10 mm and 8 mm socket first — most intake bolts/clamps are in these sizes. Use the ratchet to turn sockets; apply steady force and avoid sudden jerks.
- Extension bar(s): gives reach to bolts recessed under intake ducting. Slide between ratchet and socket to reach tight spots.
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers: for hose clamps and small screws. Use the properly sized tip to avoid stripping heads; apply steady pressure and turn.
- Pliers (slip‑joint or needle‑nose): for pulling spring clamps or retaining clips off hoses. Grip firmly and lever carefully.
- Clean lint‑free rags or microfiber cloths: to wipe carbon and solvent. Press rags around the throttle shaft to avoid solvent dripping into the intake.
- Throttle body cleaner (spray can formulated for throttle/intake): a solvent designed to dissolve carbon without leaving residues. Do not use carburetor spray on sensitive sensors unless labeled safe.
- Small soft‑bristled brush or toothbrush: to agitate carbon deposits without scratching metal.
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended): to tighten throttle body bolts to the correct torque and avoid warping. If available, set to ~8–12 Nm (7–10 ft‑lb) as a safe range; tighten snugly but do not overtighten if you don’t have a wrench.
- Safety gloves and safety glasses: protect your skin and eyes from solvent and debris.
- Container for small parts: keep bolts/clips together so they don’t get lost.
- Extra tools that might be required and why
- OBD2 scanner (basic): to clear throttle/engine codes and to check for stored throttle‑related errors before/after cleaning. Helpful for diagnosing if cleaning was enough.
- Battery terminal puller (optional): makes safe removal easier on corroded terminals.
- Replacement gasket or O‑ring for throttle body: if the original is damaged, a new gasket prevents vacuum leaks.
- Replacement throttle body assembly (if required): needed if actuator or position sensor is faulty and cleaning doesn’t fix symptoms.
- Signs that cleaning is sufficient vs. replacement needed
- Clean/repair likely sufficient if you have rough idle, hesitation, elevated idle, or sticky throttle but no consistent drive‑by‑wire fault codes and throttle plate moves freely when unplugged and gently moved.
- Replacement likely required if you have persistent check engine light with throttle actuator/position codes, throttle plate jammed mechanically, loss of throttle control, or if cleaning fails to restore smooth idle/response.
- Possible replacement parts: throttle body assembly (complete electronic throttle body), throttle body gasket/O‑ring, intake boot (if cracked), MAF sensor or its wiring if codes point there.
- Step‑by‑step procedure (do not rush, follow safety steps)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, switch ignition OFF, remove key, open hood.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and wait 5–10 minutes.
- Identify intake tube from airbox to throttle body; the throttle body sits between intake duct and intake manifold under the air intake hose.
- Loosen hose clamps on intake tube using screwdriver or socket; remove air intake duct and airbox lid as needed to expose the throttle body.
- Unplug electrical connectors from the throttle body and nearby sensors by depressing release tabs and pulling straight out; do not pry on wires.
- Remove mounting bolts holding the throttle body to the intake manifold with the ratchet and appropriate socket; support the throttle body as you remove the last bolt. Place bolts in your container.
- Inspect the throttle body and gasket:
- If gasket is damaged, replace it before reassembly.
- Check throttle plate movement; do not forcibly move the plate with tools—gently move finger only if needed to check for mechanical binding.
- Clean the throttle body:
- Hold throttle body so opening faces up or lay on a clean rag.
- Spray throttle body cleaner on the plate and bore; allow solvent to loosen carbon.
- Use the soft brush and rags to remove deposits. Clean both sides of the plate and bore edges. Avoid spraying into electrical connector areas.
- Do not insert metal picks into the shaft area; be gentle around the throttle shaft to avoid bending or damaging linkage.
- Wipe dry with clean rags until solvent has evaporated and surfaces look clean.
- Reinstall throttle body:
- Replace gasket if needed. Position throttle body onto the manifold, start bolts by hand then tighten in a crisscross pattern finger‑tight.
- Torque bolts to manufacturer feel or use torque wrench to ~8–12 Nm if available.
- Reconnect electrical connectors and reinstall intake duct and airbox; tighten clamps securely but don’t overwork plastic parts.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- After reassembly: ECU reset / idle relearn
- Simple method without scanner: with ignition off, reconnect battery. Turn ignition to ON (do not start engine) for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds, repeat 3 times to wake the ECU. Start the engine and let it idle without touching the accelerator for 5–10 minutes until idle stabilizes. Drive gently for the first few miles to allow adaptation.
- If you have an OBD2 scanner with idle relearn capability, follow the tool’s instructions for throttle actuator/idle relearn.
- How to use the cleaners and safety tips
- Use throttle body cleaner outdoors or in a ventilated area; avoid inhaling fumes.
- Spray cleaner onto rag or into the bore, not directly into electrical connectors.
- Dispose of used rags and solvent per local regulations — solvent can be flammable.
- Common pitfalls to avoid
- Don’t force the throttle plate open hard — electronic actuator and shaft are delicate.
- Don’t spray cleaners into sensors or electrical connectors.
- Don’t overtighten bolts or clamps — cracked plastic/intake warping can cause leaks.
- If engine codes persist after cleaning, do not ignore them — further diagnostics or replacement may be needed.
- When to replace parts and typical replacement items
- Replace throttle body assembly when codes indicate throttle actuator or position sensor failure, when the plate is immovable, or cleaning does not fix performance issues.
- Replace throttle body gasket whenever you remove the throttle body and the gasket is torn or brittle.
- Replace cracked intake hose or airbox parts that let unmetered air in.
- Typical replacement part names to search for: “Nissan X‑Trail T31 electronic throttle body assembly” and “throttle body gasket” (match engine code — 2.5L or 2.0L variants).
- Final checks
- Confirm there are no vacuum leaks (listening for hisses) and no loose hoses.
- Clear any engine fault codes with a scanner or by following the battery disconnect method, then verify check engine light stays off after a short drive.
- Test drive gently, watching for smooth idle, responsive throttle, and no limp‑home mode.
- Quick parts/tools shopping checklist (copy for buying)
- Throttle body cleaner (spray can, intake/throttle safe)
- Metric socket set (8 mm, 10 mm) + ratchet + extension
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Pliers (needle‑nose)
- Lint‑free rags and soft brush
- Throttle body gasket (if needed)
- OBD2 scanner (optional, recommended)
- Torque wrench (optional, recommended)
- Troubleshooting summary
- If symptoms improve after cleaning — job done.
- If symptoms persist or returns, scan for codes; if throttle actuator/position faults appear, plan for throttle body replacement.
- If unsure about replacement or encountering drive‑by‑wire warnings, consult a professional mechanic or authorized Nissan service.
No yapping. rteeqp73
Nissan X Trail T31 - Transmission Problem ? Bad acceleration, and have a specific (strange) noise.
New 2015 Nissan X trail seat function
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