Mitsubishi Renault F9Q1 F9Q2 engine factory workshop and repair manual download
Mitsubishi Renault F9Q1 F9Q2 engine factory workshop and repair manual
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Manual Contents
GENERAL INFORMATION
1. SPECIFICATIONS
SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
2. SPECIAL TOOLS
3. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
4. TIMING BELT
5. OIL SEPARATOR AND OIL RETURN PIPE
6. INJECTION PUMP AND FUEL INJECTOR
7. VACUUM HOSE
8. INTAKE AND EXHAUST
9. WATER PUMP AND WATER PIPE
10. CAMSHAFT AND VACUUM PUMP
11. CYLINDER HEAD
12. OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP
13. PISTON
14. CYLINDER BLOCK
About the F9Q1 F9Q2 engine
The F9x is the direct injected Diesel version and also features an 8-valve SOHC configuration, it has swirl generating intake ports to create swirling (vortex) of the aspirated air, and either a torodial- or an elsbett- piston bowl to twist the injected fuel vapour, also to achieve the required air/fuel mixing. The diesel-fuel is delivered either by a mechanical injection pump or a common rail fuel injection installation.
Applications:
F9Q 1.9 L (1,870 cc or 114 in3), B x S: 80.0 by 93.0 millimetres (3.15 in × 3.66 in).
1995–2002 Renault Mégane
1996–2002 Renault Espace
1996–2003 Renault Scenic I
1997–2010 Renault Master
1997–2001 Renault Laguna I
1998–2004 Mitsubishi Carisma
1998–2004 Mitsubishi Spacestar
1998–2004 Volvo S40
2001–2005 Renault Laguna II
2001–2012 Renault Clio
2001–2006 Renault Trafic II
2001–2006 Vauxhall Vivaro
2001–2006 Opel Vivaro
2002–2005 Nissan Interstar X70
2002–2006 Nissan Primastar
2003–2009 Renault Scenic II
2005–2015 Suzuki Grand Vitara
2009–2011 Renault Scenic III
Mitsubishi Renault F9Q1 F9Q2 engine factory workshop and repair manual Download
- Safety first (read and follow; short and direct)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Work with engine OFF and key out; wear gloves and eye protection.
- Never work under a car supported only by a jack — always use properly rated jack stands.
- Tools (what they are, why needed, and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack (low-profile if needed)
- Description: pump-operated lifting tool with saddle that raises the car.
- Use: position under specified lift point, pump handle to lift enough to fit jack stands; lower slowly by turning release valve.
- Why: lifts vehicle safely to access transmission pan/filter.
- Jack stands (two, rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: adjustable steel stands that hold the car after lifting.
- Use: place under manufacturer-specified support points, raise car onto stands, confirm stability before going underneath.
- Why: safe support; mandatory.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: rubber or plastic wedges.
- Use: place behind wheels opposite the end you lift.
- Why: prevents vehicle roll.
- Drain pan (large capacity, 6–12 liters recommended)
- Description: shallow container to catch transmission fluid.
- Use: slide under pan before loosening bolts; catch all fluid.
- Why: avoids spills and captures fluid for disposal.
- Socket set (metric sockets, 8–19 mm typical) and ratchet with extensions
- Description: sockets and ratchet handle for loosening/tightening bolts.
- Use: fit correct socket to pan bolts; use extension for hard-to-reach bolts.
- Why: remove pan bolts and other fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 20–100 Nm range or appropriate for bolt sizes)
- Description: wrench that clicks at preset torque.
- Use: set correct torque and tighten bolts to specification in sequence.
- Why: prevents warping pan/gasket and ensures proper sealing.
- Breaker bar (long-handled)
- Description: strong bar for extra leverage.
- Use: break loose stubborn bolts before ratcheting.
- Why: some bolts may be tight or seized.
- Screwdrivers and pry tool (flat screwdriver or small pry bar)
- Description: hand tools to loosen clips or pry pan gently.
- Use: carefully pry pan free from gasket after most bolts removed.
- Why: pan may stick; pry gently to avoid damage.
- Pliers (needle-nose or slip-joint)
- Description: gripping tool.
- Use: remove retaining clips or hoses if present.
- Why: for filter clips or small fittings.
- Funnel and flexible transmission fluid pump (syringe or hand pump)
- Description: funnel for pouring, pump for refilling through dipstick/tube.
- Use: refill fluid accurately without spills; pump is useful if fill point is high or dipstick tube narrow.
- Why: many transmissions are refilled via dipstick tube or fill plug; pump makes this practical.
- Clean rags and brake parts cleaner or solvent
- Description: lint-free rags and cleaning spray.
- Use: clean mating surfaces, magnets, and spilled fluid.
- Why: ensures good gasket seal and removes metal debris.
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor blade
- Description: tool to remove old gasket material.
- Use: scrape mating surface until clean and smooth.
- Why: prevents leaks.
- Disposable gloves and eye protection
- Description: PPE.
- Use: protect skin and eyes from ATF and dirt.
- Why: chemical safety.
- Optional but highly recommended: transmission fluid catch tray with spout and funnel with filter screen
- Description: makes handling used fluid easier and reduces spill cleanup.
- Why: simplifies clean disposal and fluid reuse for measurement.
- Optional specialty tools you may need depending on model: Torx or Allen sockets, oil filter clip tool, or a transmission jack adapter
- Description: used where pan bolts or filter fittings use non-standard fasteners or heavy assembly.
- Why: some vehicles use Torx/Allen bolts or a larger filter assembly requiring extra leverage.
- Parts and consumables (what you will replace and why)
- Transmission filter (paper or plastic assembly specific to gearbox)
- Why: filter traps clutch/planetary wear particles; replace to restore flow and protect valve body.
- Replacement: buy OEM or equivalent filter specified for the gearbox model (check gearbox code on vehicle or service manual). Commonly sold as “automatic transmission filter + gasket kit”.
- Pan gasket or pan gasket sealant
- Why: pan-to-transmission sealing surface requires new gasket; reuse risks leaks.
- Replacement: paper gasket, rubber molded, or use RTV if service manual allows.
- Transmission fluid (correct type and quantity)
- Why: fluid is lost during pan removal; must be topped/refilled to correct level with manufacturer-specified ATF type (do not guess—use the vehicle’s service/owner manual specification; wrong fluid damages transmission).
- Replacement: get enough to refill drained amount plus top-up (typical pan drop drains 3–8 liters depending on transmission).
- Crush washer or fill/drain plug seals (if present)
- Why: metal crush washers and seals deform and must be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Optional: pan bolts if damaged or studs, and new magnets if original is deteriorated
- Why: bolts can strip from corrosion; magnets should be cleaned but replace if corroded.
- How to identify automatic vs manual and which procedure applies (brief)
- Automatic: has a wide transmission oil pan under the gearbox and a dipstick for ATF in many older models; will have a replaceable internal filter.
- Manual: usually does NOT have a paper filter; it may have a drain plug and magnetic plug to clean—so filter replacement likely not applicable.
- Procedure for automatic transmission filter replacement (step-by-step bullets)
- Prepare vehicle: chock rear wheels, lift front with jack at correct lift point, place jack stands, verify stability.
- Place drain pan under transmission pan and remove most pan bolts using correct socket; leave a few bolts hand-tight on one side to act as a hinge.
- Carefully loosen remaining bolts so the pan drops enough to drain into the catch pan; allow fluid to drain (several minutes).
- Once drained, remove all pan bolts and lower pan. Work slowly to avoid spilling; tilt pan to drain remaining fluid into catch pan.
- Inspect pan and magnets:
- Clean pan, scrape old gasket material with plastic scraper, remove metal filings from magnets with rag. Keep metal amounts small (small flakes are normal; large chunks indicate a problem).
- Remove transmission filter:
- Filter usually held by bolts or clips; remove retaining fastener(s). Pull filter straight down—expect more fluid.
- Inspect filter for abnormal debris (large metal pieces or heavy contamination warrants professional inspection).
- Prepare new filter:
- If filter has an O-ring or gasket, lightly lubricate with new ATF and fit into place.
- Fit new pan gasket (or apply RTV per manual). Make sure mating surface is clean and dry.
- Install new filter with correct torque to its retaining fastener (use manual spec; snug but avoid over-tightening).
- Reinstall pan with new gasket:
- Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern incrementally to specified torque (if unknown, tighten to a moderate snug feel — then consult manual for final torque; avoid over-torque which crushes gasket).
- Lower vehicle enough to access fill/dipstick tube or fill plug.
- Refill transmission with correct type and amount of ATF:
- Use funnel or pump to add fluid.
- Start with the amount you drained plus recommended remainder; exact required level must be checked with engine running and transmission at operating temperature per service manual—use dipstick procedure for that gearbox. Some cars require checking at idle in Park or Neutral; others require gear selection changes.
- Start engine, with park/neutral as required, cycle through gears slowly, return to Park/Neutral; check for leaks around pan.
- Check fluid level per manufacturer procedure (engine running and warmed to operating temperature usually) and add fluid until correct level is met.
- Clean up, properly dispose of used ATF at recycling center.
- Manual transmission notes (if your vehicle is manual)
- Many manual transmissions do not have a replaceable filter; they have a drain plug and a fill plug only.
- Procedure: remove drain plug to drain fluid, remove fill plug and clean magnetic drain/fill magnets, reinstall drain plug with new crush washer if present, refill through fill hole to correct level. Replace fluid with correct gear oil type/grade per manual.
- If there is a mesh or screen type filter in the bellhousing area (rare), it may be serviceable or replaced per manual.
- How to use the most critical tools safely and effectively (short how-to)
- Floor jack + stands: lift at manufacturer lift points, raise slowly, set stands under frame points, lower jack until stands support weight, test stability by gently rocking car at corners.
- Socket/ratchet: pick correct socket snug to bolt to avoid rounding; apply steady force; use breaker bar for stuck bolts.
- Torque wrench: set to required value, tighten bolts in sequence incrementally (hand-tight -> 50% torque -> full torque).
- Fluid pump/funnel: insert pump hose into dipstick tube or fill hole; pump slowly and measure amount added.
- Troubleshooting and when to seek professional help
- Heavy metal chunks in pan/filter: stop and consult a transmission specialist — internal damage likely.
- Persistent leaks after gasket replacement: re-torque bolts to spec; if still leaking, pan surface or transmission case mating surface may be warped/damaged — professional repair recommended.
- Wrong fluid used: stop driving, drain and replace with correct fluid—wrong fluid can damage transmission.
- Important final reminders (concise)
- Get the exact filter part number and ATF spec for your car (check owner manual, parts fiche, or a dealer). Using the correct filter and fluid matters more than brand.
- Keep used ATF for volume measurement and proper disposal at a recycling center.
- If uncertain at any step, stop and consult a factory service manual or a qualified mechanic.
- Typical replacement parts you will likely need (buy before starting)
- Transmission filter specific to your gearbox model (OEM or exact aftermarket match)
- Pan gasket or RTV sealant if allowed by manual
- Transmission fluid (correct ATF type and enough liters)
- Crush washer or seal for drain/fill plug (if applicable)
No extra commentary. rteeqp73
Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...
Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...
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