Ordered procedure with theory and how each action fixes the fault.

Summary of the fault and theory
- Symptom: clunking at axle/frame, excessive bounce, poor damping, uneven tyre contact, visible torn rubber or missing fasteners at shock mount.
- What’s failed: the shock absorber mounting points (rubber/metal bushings, sleeves, eyes or welded brackets) allow unwanted movement or have separated. That prevents the shock from properly transferring and dissipating suspension energy, so bumps are not damped and loads are transmitted to the frame as impact.
- How replacement fixes it: restoring a solid, correctly-aligned attachment and fresh bushings/sleeves lets the shock absorber convert suspension kinetic energy to heat (hydraulic fluid) and control motion. New bushings restore isolation and correct articulation, stopping metal‑on‑metal play and restoring damping performance.

Safety and prep (do this first)
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
2. Disconnect battery negative if you’ll be near electricals or welding.
3. Use suitable jacks/stands rated for tractor weight. Never work under an unsupported tractor.
4. Wear eye protection, gloves. Use penetrating oil and torque wrench.

Tools and parts
- New shock or new mount kit (bushings, sleeves, nuts, washers). Use OEM or approved aftermarket.
- Hand tools, breaker bar, sockets, spanners.
- Penetrating oil, wire brush.
- Hydraulic jack and axle/frame stands or blocks (to set correct ride height).
- Press or large threaded rod, washers and nuts to press bushings in/out (or arbor press).
- Torque wrench, anti-seize compound or light threadlocker (follow manual).
- Service manual for access and torque specs (use for final torques).

Step-by-step procedure (in order) with why each step matters

1) Confirm diagnosis and document
- Inspect shock and mount: fluid leaks, torn rubber, movement at eye/bolt.
- Why: verifies you need mount replacement (not just shock internals or other suspension faults). Saves unneeded replacement.

2) Prepare tractor to normal ride height
- Lift tractor only enough to relieve wheel load so suspension is at normal ride height (use stands/blocks under axle or frame). Ideally, support tractor so the suspension is loaded as it would be in service.
- Why: many bushings must be installed without preloading. Tightening bolts with suspension in incorrect position will distort rubber bushings and cause premature failure.

3) Access and protect
- Remove any obstructing panels, wheels or linkage to access top and bottom shock eyes.
- Apply penetrating oil to mounting bolts and studs; allow soak time.
- Why: improves access and reduces risk of breaking studs; prevents collateral damage.

4) Support the component that the shock connects to
- Put a jack or stand under the axle, hub or link that the shock controls so the component won’t drop when the shock is removed.
- Why: prevents sudden load transfer, safety, and keeps geometry so bolt holes remain aligned for reinstallation.

5) Remove shock mounting fasteners
- Loosen and remove nuts/bolts at both ends. If mount bolts are seized, use heat/penetrating oil or an impact tool carefully.
- Keep track of washers, spacers, orientation.
- Why: this frees the shock/mount for removal. Maintaining orientation ensures correct reassembly.

6) Remove shock and old bushings/sleeves
- Extract shock. Remove worn rubber bushings and sleeves from shock eyes and frame brackets. Use press or threaded rod method to push bushes out.
- Inspect shock eyes, brackets and welds for elongation, cracks or deformation.
- Why: removes damaged components and exposes bracket condition. If brackets are stretched or cracked, replacing bushings alone won’t fix the root cause.

7) Inspect and repair surrounding structure
- Check bracket holes for elongation; check welds, studs, and mating faces for corrosion or fatigue. Shirt-size worn holes by reaming and fitting oversize sleeve or install repair plate/weld as required.
- Why: a solid mounting surface and correct hole diameter are necessary for proper clamping and alignment. Loose/worn holes allow play even with new bushings.

8) Prepare new bushings/sleeves and surfaces
- Clean mating surfaces, apply small amount of anti-seize on metal sleeves (not to rubber faces), and ensure correct orientation of split bushings/shims per kit instructions.
- Why: anti-seize helps future removal; correct orientation ensures the bushing compresses and articulates correctly.

9) Install new bushings/sleeves
- Press or drive new bushings into the shock eyes/brackets using a press or the threaded rod and washers method. Ensure they seat fully and flush.
- Why: properly seated bushings give correct preload and concentricity. Incorrect seating causes binding or premature wear.

10) Refit shock into mount with bolts loosely installed
- Align shock and insert bolts with original washers/spacers in correct order. Start nuts by hand; leave bolts finger-tight.
- Why: allows final alignment with suspension loaded and avoids preloading bushings.

11) Lower tractor to normal ride condition and set torque
- Carefully lower the jack so the suspension is at normal loaded height (tractor on tyres or on stands set to ride height).
- Torque mounting fasteners to the manufacturer’s specified values (use factory manual). If the manual is not available, consult an established torque chart for bolt size — but confirm when possible.
- Why: tightening at normal ride height prevents bushing pre-load and ensures correct operating geometry and load distribution through the bushings and shock.

12) Apply correct locking method
- Use recommended locking method (new nuts, cotter pins, medium threadlock where specified). Don’t overtighten if the manual requires a nut to be free to swivel on the stud.
- Why: prevents loosening in service while not overstressing components.

13) Final checks and test
- Visually inspect that bushings are not pinched and that washers/sleeves are positioned correctly.
- Perform a bounce test: with tractor on level ground, push down on axle/implement and observe damping. Drive at low speed over a known bump and listen/check for clunks.
- Re-torque after a short test run if recommended (some manufacturers ask for re-check after initial hours).
- Why: confirms repair restored damping and no new noises/looseness.

Inspection criteria and when to do more repair
- If bracket holes are elongated >1–2 mm or welds show cracking, repair by welding and finishing to original geometry or replace bracket.
- If shock body is leaking or rod is pitted, replace shock itself — new mount alone won’t restore damping.
- If studs are corroded beyond threads, replace studs/nuts.

Why each major action fixes the root problem (concise)
- Replacing worn bushings eliminates free play and metal-on-metal contact, so the shock can impose the correct reaction forces without lost motion.
- Restoring correct hole size and bracket integrity prevents eccentric loading and uneven bushing wear.
- Installing and torquing at ride height ensures the rubber bushings operate in their designed deflection range, not under constant twist or compression.
- Proper torque and locking prevent re-loosening which would recreate the fault.

Quick failure modes to watch for after repair
- New clunking: likely bolts not torqued at ride height or worn bracket still present.
- Rapid bushing wear: misaligned sleeve, over-compression when tightened, or inferior bush material.
- Leakage or poor damping: shock itself is faulty — replace shock.

Notes and cautions
- Use OEM parts where possible. Some aftermarket bushings are harder/softer than OEM and change ride characteristics.
- If in doubt about torque values or weld repairs, follow the Fiat service manual or a qualified welder/mechanic.
- Do not weld near rubber bushings in-place — remove components first.

This sequence gives workshop-level actions and the mechanical reason each step repairs the fault.
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- Safety and workspace setup
- Clear, level workspace with good lighting and solid bench or gearbox stand; use heavy-duty jack stands or engine hoist for gearbox removal to avoid crush injuries.
- Personal protective equipment (PPE): safety glasses, gloves (mechanic’s gloves), steel-toe boots, hearing protection for noisy operations.
- Fire safety: no open flames near solvents, oily rags; keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Clean trays, labeled bags and cardboard to organize parts and fasteners as you remove them to avoid reassembly errors.

- Essential basic tools (what they are, how to use them)
- Combination spanners (open + box end): used for loosening/tightening nuts and bolts. Match the correct size, pull box end toward you for better torque, avoid rounding bolts by using correct size and keeping full contact.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions: fastener removal in tight places. Use sockets that fully fit the nut; extensions and universal joints reach awkward angles. Apply steady force; change to breaker bar for stuck fasteners.
- Breaker bar: long-handled bar for initial loosening of tight bolts. Use smooth, steady force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click type): sets specific bolt torque during reassembly. Pre-set required torque, tighten until wrench clicks, re-torque bolts in recommended sequence.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and nut drivers: for small fasteners and lever action; use correct tip size to avoid cam-out.
- Hammer (ball-peen and dead-blow): for freeing stuck parts (dead-blow reduces damage). Use light taps; protect surfaces with soft drift or block.
- Punch and drift set (steel and brass): to drive out roll pins, align holes, or remove tapered shafts. Use correct diameter to avoid mushrooming pins.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose, locking): gripping, twisting, and removing clips. Use locking pliers (Vise-Grips) to hold parts firmly when needed.
- Snap-ring (circlip) pliers: compress or expand internal/external snap rings. Use correct tips and grip rings firmly; wear eye protection when removing.
- Feeler gauges: measure small gaps, lash, and shim thicknesses. Slide gauges between parts to check clearance.
- Drain pan and oil pump: collect old gearbox oil and refill with clean oil; oil pump helps to refill sealed gearboxes.

- Additional/specialized tools (detailed description, how to use, why required)
- Service/manual for Fiat 55-60 / 60-90 / 79-90 / 80-90 / 90-90 / 100-90: contains torque specs, gear tooth patterns, shim sizes, clearances. Required because exact clearances and reassembly order are model-specific and critical for gearbox life.
- Engine hoist or transmission jack: supports and safely removes heavy gearbox from tractor; use rated chains/straps and guide with helper. Required to prevent injury and damage.
- Gearbox stand or heavy bench with cradle: supports gearbox for disassembly and turning; needed to access both ends safely.
- Bearing puller / gear puller (2- or 3-jaw) and separator: extracts bearings, gears, and pulleys without damaging components. Use matched puller pads, apply steady turning force; use separator plate behind gear if the gear is on shaft.
- Hydraulic or arbor press (5–20 ton): presses bearings on/off shafts, seats races, and installs bushes. Place shafts and components on sturdy blocks and press slowly, keeping parts aligned.
- Heat source (induction heater or heat gun, propane torch with care): expands housings or warm bearings for easier fit. Heat housing evenly and only to controlled temperatures; avoid overheating seals or metallurgical damage.
- Micrometer and vernier caliper: measure shafts, journals, gear thickness, and bearing bores to check wear to spec. Use micrometer for shaft diameters (accurate to 0.01 mm), caliper for larger dimensions.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base: measures endplay/backlash and runout. Mount base to housing, use indicator tip on gear tooth or shaft, rotate and read variation for backlash and endplay checks.
- Torque angle gauge (if required by manual): measures bolt rotation when torque-by-angle procedure is used. Clamp to bolt head and turn to specified angle.
- Soft-faced mallet and wood/nylon blocks: assemble parts without marring surfaces.
- Seal drivers and bearing race driver kit: install seals and races with even pressure; prevents damage to lips and race seating.
- Thread chaser/tap & die set: cleans threads before reassembly. Use proper size and cut slowly with lubricant.
- Parts washer / solvent tank and brushes: clean grease, oil, and contamination from gears and housings. Necessary to detect cracks, pitting, and wear.
- Magnetic inspection tools (magnetic pickup, magnet): remove metal debris; useful for checking for wear.
- Optional: dial indicator for gear tooth profile checks and backlash analyzer; magnetic-particle inspection or dye-penetrant for crack detection if suspect.

- Preparatory checklist before beginning work
- Obtain and print the specific workshop manual for your exact tractor model/version.
- Label and photograph assemblies and linkages before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
- Prepare organized trays, labeled plastic bags, masking tape and marker for bolts and small parts.
- Drain gearbox oil into a suitable container, dispose of oil per local regulations.

- Removal of gearbox (overview and how to use tools safely)
- Disconnect battery and remove PTO/clutch linkages, propshafts, and hydraulic connections; tag hoses to remember positions.
- Support the gearbox with hoist or jack, remove mounting bolts using sockets/wrenches; use breaker bar for stubborn bolts and penetrating oil beforehand.
- Lower gearbox slowly onto stand or floor jack. Keep gearbox level to avoid fluid loss and internal part movement.

- Disassembly sequence principles and tool use
- Work methodically: photograph and mark each component orientation and fit.
- Remove external covers and inspection plates with screwdrivers/rachet. Keep gaskets and screws together.
- Remove selector linkage and forks; use snap-ring pliers for clips. Note fork orientation and selector groove positions.
- Remove shafts (input, layshaft, output) by extracting retaining plates, bolts, and snap rings; use drift and punch to tap shafts out gently.
- Use gear puller or separator to remove gears and bearings from shafts. If stuck, use heat on hub and press on shaft or use penetrating oil and gentle hammer taps on a brass drift.
- Remove bearings and races with puller or press. Use press or bearing puller to push bearings off shafts; press new bearings on with arbor press using sleeves that press only the bearing outer or inner race as required.
- Keep all shims and spacers in order; measure thicknesses and label them. Shims set endplay/backlash; incorrect shims create premature wear.

- Cleaning and inspection (what to look for and tool use)
- Clean all parts in parts washer or solvent; use brass brushes to avoid scratching surfaces.
- Visual inspection: check for broken or chipped gear teeth, scoring, pitting, heat discoloration (blueing), deformation, or cracks.
- Bearing inspection: check for roughness, play, metal debris, discoloration; spin bearings and feel for grit or binding.
- Measurement checks:
- Use micrometer to measure shaft journal diameters and compare to manual tolerances. Replace or regrind if worn beyond limits.
- Measure bearing bores with caliper and bearing fit; excessive clearance requires bore repair or housing replacement.
- Use dial indicator to measure gear backlash: hold one gear steady and indicator on mating gear tooth, rotate and read play. Compare to manual spec.
- Check endplay on shafts with dial indicator; adjust shims if out of spec.
- Crack detection: use dye-penetrant or magnetic-particle inspection if you suspect hairline cracks on gears or housings.

- Typical replacement parts and why they are often needed
- Bearings (tapered, roller, ball): commonly worn or scored; bearings are critical for shaft alignment and smooth operation. Replace if rough, noisy, excessive clearance, or discoloration.
- Seals and gaskets: always replace when disassembling to prevent leaks. Old seals harden and leak; new seals ensure oil containment.
- Synchro rings/bushes (if fitted): wear causes grinding and shifting problems; replace if worn or glazed.
- Shift forks and selector parts: forks bend or wear at pivot/slider areas causing poor engagement; replace or reprofile if worn.
- Gear sets or single gears with chipped teeth, pitting or severe wear: replace to prevent failure and further gearbox damage.
- Shafts (input, output, layshaft): replace if journals are scored, bent, or worn beyond repair; regrinding requires specialist machine shop.
- Needle rollers / bushes: wear affects gear alignment; replace when clearances exceed spec.
- Speedo drive gears, washers, and snap rings: replace as needed during reassembly.
- Fasteners (bolts/studs) and locking plates: replace stretched or corroded fasteners; use correct grade bolts and locking methods.
- Lubricant (gear oil) and filter (if present): replace with correct grade and quantity; contaminated oil causes rapid wear.

- Reconditioning repairs and methods (how to do them)
- Bearing replacement:
- Use press or heat fit. Heat bearing outer race lightly (80–120°C) or cool shaft with freezer; slide bearing on quickly and seat using driver that presses on correct race. Press only on the race that matches press direction.
- For removal, use bearing puller; if stuck, heat housing (not shaft) or use hydraulic press.
- Seal replacement:
- Use seal driver to install new seal squarely; ensure lip faces oil side. Lightly oil sealing lip before installation.
- Gear and shaft repair:
- Replace gears or shafts with damaged teeth or journals. Regrinding of shafts should be done by a machine shop; remember to check bearing fits after grind.
- Avoid welding damaged gear teeth on high-load gears—replacement is preferred.
- Shimming and endplay adjustment:
- Follow manual to set shim packs between bearing caps/housings to achieve specified endplay. Use feeler gauges and dial indicator to measure while adjusting shims incrementally.
- Synchronizer and selector adjustment:
- Replace worn synchro rings and springs. Ensure keys and springs seat properly. Check engagement positions and detents per manual.
- Housing repairs:
- Minor gouges can be blended, but cracked housings usually need replacement or welding and machining by specialist.

- Reassembly (how to proceed and tools to use)
- Clean all mating surfaces and install new gaskets/seals dry or with recommended sealant.
- Use new bearings and seals where identified. Fit bearings with press or heat method described earlier.
- Reinstall shafts and gears in original order, using labeled parts and photos as guide.
- Fit snap rings using snap-ring pliers; ensure rings fully seat in groove.
- Set shims and torque bearing caps and housing bolts to specified torque with torque wrench, in recommended sequence.
- Check gear backlash and endplay with dial indicator after initial assembly and adjust shims until within spec.
- Apply proper assembly lube to bearings and sliding parts prior to first run.
- Reinstall gearbox on tractor using hoist; reconnect linkages and driveshafts. Torque mounting bolts per manual.

- Testing and commissioning
- Fill gearbox with correct grade and quantity of oil specified in manual.
- With tractor safely supported (wheels blocked), run engine at low rpm and cycle gearbox through all gears. Listen for unusual noises and check gear engagement.
- Road test with attention to shifting smoothness, leaks, and bearing noises. Re-check oil level and torque of external fasteners after warm-up.
- Monitor gearbox temperature and noises for first hours of operation.

- Common symptoms that indicate part replacement
- Grinding when changing gears: worn synchronizer rings, damaged dog teeth, or bent shift forks.
- Excessive endplay or shaft axial movement: worn thrust bearings or incorrect shims.
- Loud whining or rumbling: worn wheel bearings, worn gear teeth or bearing failure.
- Metal particles in oil or magnetic plug: bearing or gear wear—requires inspection and replacement of damaged components.
- Oil leaks: degraded seals or housing damage—replace seals and gaskets.

- Consumables and parts to have on hand before starting
- Full gasket and seal kit for the gearbox
- Full set of replacement bearings (input, layshaft, output) or at least the ones matched to symptoms
- Snap rings, circlips, shift-fork pads, selector springs and detents
- Correct grade gearbox oil and oil seals
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and recommended sealant per manual
- Spare fasteners for bolts that are corroded or stretched

- When to seek specialist help / machine shop work
- If shafts require regrinding, housing needs machining, or gear teeth need profile repair — these require specialist machinery.
- If you lack a press or safe way to press bearings and gears; improper pressing can ruin parts.
- For complex tooth pattern setting or when precise backlash/endplay cannot be achieved with available parts.

- Final practical tips for a beginner
- Work slowly and methodically; document every step with photos and labels.
- Replace bearings and seals as a priority—these are wear items and cheaper than repeating disassembly.
- Always consult the model-specific service manual for torque, shim sizes, and clearances before setting final values.
- If uncertain about a measure (backlash or endplay), get assistance from a machinist or experienced mechanic rather than guessing.

- Safety reminder
- Never work under a gearbox supported only by a jack or unsecured hoist; always use rated supports and have an assistant when heavy lifting is involved.
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