Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 factory workshop and repair manual
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Covers the gasoline petrol engines 2.5 L AMC straight-4 engine * 4.0 L AMC straight-4 engine
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Lubrication and Maintenance
Suspension
Differential & Driveline
Vehicle Quick Reference
Brakes
Cooling
Audio/Video
Chime/Buzzer
Electronic Control Modules
Engine Systems
Heated Systems
Horn
Ignition Control
Instrument Cluster
Lamps
Message Systems
Power Systems & Restraints
Speed Control
Vehicle Theft Security
Wipers/Washers
Navigation/Telecommunication
Wiring
Engine
Exhaust System
Frame & Bumpers
Fuel System
Steering
Transmission and Transfer Case
Tires/Wheels
Body
Heating & Air Conditioning
Emission Control
Component and System Index
Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 factory workshop and repair manual
Short, practical, step-by-step guide to reconditioning a Jeep Wrangler TJ manual gearbox (transmission). This is aimed at a beginner mechanic who wants to understand the theory, every major component, what goes wrong, and how to restore the unit. Do this job only if you have a safe workspace, hand tools, a transmission jack or engine hoist, and the factory service manual for exact specs and torque/clearance figures.
Overview / Theory (why this repair is needed)
- Purpose: The gearbox converts engine RPM to wheel torque through fixed gear ratios. You select gears with the shift mechanism; synchronizers match shaft speeds for smooth engagement.
- Symptoms requiring reconditioning: grinding or crunchy shifts, gear slip, excessive noise (whine, growl), oil leaks, metal shavings in fluid, clutch does not re-engage cleanly, excessive play/endplay, or catastrophic gear/pinion damage.
- Why gears wear: metal fatigue, poor lubrication, contaminated fluid, misalignment, worn bearings or shafts, hard shifts causing synchro wear. Analogies: synchronizers are like two bicycle wheels that need to match speed before locking together; a failed synchronizer is like trying to force a wheel to mesh that is still spinning differently.
Main components (what each is, how it works, failure modes)
- Gearbox case (housing)
- Function: contains shafts, gears, bearings, seals, and fluid; aligns components.
- Failures: cracked case (from impact), damaged mounting points, stripped threads, warped mating surfaces, internal corrosion.
- Input shaft
- Function: receives torque from clutch/engine and drives the cluster/main shaft via gears or direct spline.
- Failures: worn splines, bearing journals scored, twist or break if overloaded.
- Output/main shaft (sometimes called mainshaft)
- Function: carries the selected drive gear(s) to the output flange that sends torque to driveshaft.
- Failures: worn gear teeth or bearing journals, bent shaft, worn splines at output.
- Countershaft/cluster shaft (layshaft)
- Function: holds a set of gears that mesh with the mainshaft gears; always driven by the input, provides fixed gear ratios.
- Failures: worn gear teeth, bearing wear, broken gears from impact.
- Gears (gear sets)
- Function: different sized gears produce different output speeds/torques. They are usually helical or straight-cut.
- Failures: chipped/broken teeth, pitting, scored tooth surfaces, wear that changes backlash or mesh pattern.
- Synchronizers (synchro rings, hubs, sleeves)
- Function: synchronize rotational speeds between gear and shaft before engagement. A synchronizer has a friction ring (cone) that brings speeds together, then a sleeve locks the hub to the gear.
- Failures: worn friction surfaces (no sync), broken keys or springs, sleeve teeth wear, blocked hub, difficult/rough shifting.
- Bearings (ball, roller, needle rollers)
- Function: support shafts and allow rotation with minimal friction while keeping alignment.
- Failures: noise (growl), play in shafts, heat from friction, lost clearances, pitting, spalling.
- Seals and gaskets
- Function: keep oil in and contaminants out.
- Failures: leaks, hardened/cracked elastomers, displaced seals.
- Shift forks and rails (selector mechanism)
- Function: move the synchronizer sleeve to engage gears; linked to exterior shifter.
- Failures: bent/worn forks, worn fork grooves, misaligned rails, broken detent springs.
- Detents, balls, springs
- Function: hold gears in selected position and provide shifter feel.
- Failures: worn detents cause slipping out of gear or loose shifter.
- Output flange/yoke
- Function: connection point to driveshaft; transmits torque.
- Failures: worn splines, damaged flange leading to vibration.
- Reverse idler (if present)
- Function: reverses rotation for reverse gear.
- Failures: worn teeth, bearing wear causing noise.
- Seals, bushings and small hardware (snap rings, bearings races, spacers, shims)
- Function: set endplay, keep parts in position.
- Failures: worn shims change endplay, broken snap rings allow movement.
Tools and supplies (minimum)
- Factory service manual (essential for specs)
- Transmission jack or decent floor jack + support
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, torque wrench
- Snap ring pliers, picks, drift punches, hammer
- Bearing pullers, press (shop press preferred), gear pullers
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for endplay/backlash)
- Feeler gauges, straight edge, depth micrometer or calipers
- Clean solvent and parts washer, brushes, lint-free rags
- High-temp assembly grease, gearbox oil (factory spec)
- New bearings, seals, synchronizers, gaskets, snap rings, shims as required (use OEM or matched kits)
- Workbench with clean trays for parts; label parts and orientation
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, jack stands, tranny fluid catch
Step-by-step workflow (high level with practical actions)
Note: follow the service manual for torque and clearance/shaft endplay numbers.
1) Preparation and removal
- Park safe, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Remove driveshaft(s), shifter linkage, speedometer cable/sensor, starter (if needed), crossmember, clutch slave/hydraulic line (support clutch housing), electrical connectors.
- Support transmission with jack, remove mount bolts and bellhousing bolts, lower gearbox straight down. Keep clutch orientation intact.
2) Clean exterior and initial inspection
- Drain fluid into container; magnetic drain plug may show metal bits (save for analysis).
- Clean entire exterior, mark orientation of linkage parts and cables to avoid mistakes later.
3) Disassembly (methodical—photograph and tag everything)
- Remove shift linkage components and top cover to access selector forks/rails.
- Remove snap rings, shift forks, and synchronizer assemblies. Keep forks with their matching rail and hub — forks can be worn uniquely.
- Remove output flange/pinion and bearings if needed.
- Remove mainshaft and countershaft/cluster. Often one shaft will come out after removing snap rings and bearings.
- Use press and pullers to remove bearings and gears from shafts (note order and orientation).
- Keep hardware in order and label.
4) Cleaning and inspection (critical)
- Clean all parts in solvent/parts washer; inspect carefully for:
- Gear tooth pitting, chipped edges, scoring on faces
- Synchronizer cone wear (shiny polished surface vs grooved)
- Hub sleeve teeth wear or burrs
- Bearing rollers/spaces: pitting, discoloration, metal flakes
- Shaft journals: scoring, wear, out-of-round
- Case mating surfaces: cracks, distortion
- Snap rings and circlips: stretched or fractured
- Magnetic drain plug or fluid contamination: fine metal indicates normal wear; larger flakes mean component failure.
- Use calipers/dial indicator to check shaft runout, bearing fit, gear backlash (compare to manual).
5) What to replace
- Always replace: seals, gaskets, oil, often bearings and input/output seals.
- Replace if worn or damaged: synchronizer friction rings, sleeves/hubs with badly worn teeth, heavily pitted gears (or entire gear set), any bearing that shows wear, any bent or cracked shift forks.
- Replace all snap rings, and any plastic or rubber parts showing aging.
- If many gears or shafts are damaged, consider replacing or rebuilding the entire transmission or using a reman unit.
6) Reconditioning specific items
- Bearings: press out old bearings, replace with new. Clean and dry housing surfaces. Ensure correct direction on tapered rollers and use new races if required.
- Synchronizers: fit new friction rings to cones; install new springs/keys as needed. Make sure cones and rings seat properly.
- Shafts and gear fits: if journals are scored, you can sometimes polish minor scores; deep scoring needs replacement or regrinding (specialist).
- Gear tooth repair: minor galling on faces may be polished but chipped/pitted teeth must be replaced.
- Seals: install new oil seals with care (not hammered crooked), lubricate lip with assembly grease.
- Snap rings/shims: replace and re-install in correct orientation.
7) Measurement and setting (critical)
- Bearing preload, endplay (axial play) and gear backlash are crucial. Use dial indicator and follow manual procedure:
- Check mainshaft endplay (axial movement) and adjust with shims if required.
- Check gear backlash between mating gears using dial indicator; adjust with shims if necessary.
- If you do not have the manual numbers or feel uncomfortable, have a shop set these. Incorrect endplay or backlash causes noise and premature wear.
8) Reassembly
- Assemble shafts in reverse order, keeping the same orientation and match-marked parts.
- Use new bearings, seals, and snap rings. Apply assembly grease to moving parts during assembly.
- Reinstall synchronizers and shift forks; check that shift rails move freely and detents index properly.
- Torque all bolts to factory spec, especially case bolts and bellhousing bolts.
- Install output flange and driveshaft flange with correct torque and any specified thread locker.
- Fill with specified transmission oil to the fill plug level.
9) Bench and vehicle testing
- On bench: shift through all gears with input rotation (if possible) to verify engagement and no binding.
- Install back into vehicle. Reconnect clutch linkage/hydraulics and adjust clutch freeplay per manual.
- Test drive initially in a safe area: monitor for unusual noise, slipping, or leaks. Check fluid level after warm-up and re-torque plugs as necessary.
- Break-in: some rebuilt components require a mild break-in (gentle driving for first 100–200 miles).
Common problems, causes, and fixes
- Hard or crunchy shifts: worn synchronizers, worn shift fork grooves, wrong fluid, misadjusted linkage. Replace synchros and worn forks; use correct fluid.
- Grinding when selecting gear: bad clutch adjustment or worn synchro; ensure clutch fully releases before replacing internal parts.
- Whine or gear noise: incorrect backlash, bearing wear, or misaligned shafts. Re-measure and correct shims or replace bearings/gears.
- Slipping out of gear: worn detents, worn synchronizer sleeve/hub, bent fork. Replace detents and worn selector components.
- Leaks: worn seals or case damage. Replace seals, ensure mating surfaces are clean and bolts torqued correctly.
- Metal shavings in fluid: early sign of internal wear—inspect and replace affected parts; a rebuild is recommended.
- Excessive endplay/bearing noise: worn or missing shims, damaged bearings—set endplay to spec and replace bearings.
Safety and quality tips (no shortcuts)
- Cleanliness: contamination is the enemy. Keep parts in trays, use lint-free rags, and do not introduce dirt into bearings or synchro cones.
- Use OEM parts for synchronizers and bearings where possible. Cheap synchros will fail quickly.
- Follow torque and clearance specs from the factory manual—these control bearing life and quiet operation.
- Mark and photograph as you disassemble. One small mis-orientation can ruin reassembly.
- If you cannot set preload/backlash accurately, consider sending shafts to a transmission shop or having the final assembly checked.
- If multiple gears and shafts show heavy wear, a full replacement transmission (reman) may be more cost-effective.
Quick diagnostics to decide whether to repair or replace
- Minor noise + few worn synchros: rebuild is economical.
- Multiple pitted gears, broken teeth, heavy shaft damage: consider replacement/reman because machining/replacing many parts is expensive.
- Case cracks or severe wear: replace or find a reman unit.
Final checklist before putting back on vehicle
- New seals and gaskets installed
- All bearings and synchros replaced as planned
- Endplay and backlash set to spec
- Torque values set per manual
- Shift forks aligned and free, detents functioning
- Clean fluid filled to correct level with correct grade
- No leftover parts; test-shift performed
That’s the complete practical outline. For exact torque numbers, shim thicknesses, bearing preload and gear backlash specs, and detailed removal/installation bolt sequences, use the Jeep TJ factory service manual for your specific model year and transmission type (AX15, NV3550, etc.). Follow it precisely to avoid permanent damage or unsafe operation. rteeqp73
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