1) Safety and prep
- Theory: Work on a cool engine with ignition off to avoid burns and accidental starts.
- Do: Park, set parking brake, remove key. Wear gloves and eye protection.

2) Locate components
- Theory: The air filter housing (airbox) on a TJ sits on the passenger side and connects the intake snorkel to the throttle body/sensor. It creates a sealed, measured air path.
- Do: Open hood, identify the airbox, intake snorkel, clamp(s), and any sensor or vacuum hoses attached.

3) Remove intake attachments
- Theory: Unclamping/snorkel removal isolates the airbox so you can access the filter and inspect seals and the housing body.
- Do: Loosen hose clamps on the inlet and outlet with a screwdriver or socket. Unclip or unplug any intake air temp or MAF sensor connectors and gently move wiring aside. Disconnect any breather/PCV hoses from the housing.

4) Open the airbox and remove the filter
- Theory: The cover and element form the filtration barrier; removing them reveals the element and interior for inspection.
- Do: Release the airbox clips or bolts, lift the cover, remove the air filter element. Note how the filter seats and where gaskets or foam seals sit.

5) Inspect the filter element and housing
- Theory: A dirty/restricted filter reduces airflow (low power, poor economy); cracks or warped seals allow unmetered/unfiltered air (rough idle, CEL, sensor errors, accelerated wear).
- Do: Check filter for heavy dirt/oil/corrosion. Inspect housing for cracks, broken tabs, warped cover, missing gaskets, or debris/small animals. Check snorkel and intake path for blockages or water.

6) Diagnose fault cause from inspection
- Theory: Symptoms map to faults:
- Very dirty/restricted element → power loss, black smoke or rough drive.
- Cracked housing/gaps/missing gaskets → vacuum leaks, fluctuating idle, CEL.
- Disconnected/broken hoses or sensors → incorrect air measurement, poor mixture control.
- Do: Decide repair: replace element, replace housing, repair small crack, or reattach hoses/clamps.

7) Clean or replace parts
- Theory: Cleaning removes obstructions; replacement restores proper sealing and filtration properties.
- Do:
- Replace filter if dirty or damaged. Use OEM or correctly sized aftermarket.
- Clean housing interior with a damp cloth and vacuum out debris. Ensure dry.
- Repair small plastic cracks with plastic epoxy or plastic welding if acceptable; replace housing for structural damage or broken sensor bosses.
- Replace worn foam seals or gaskets.

8) Reassemble with correct seating and clamping
- Theory: Proper seating restores the sealed, metered air path so sensors measure true intake flow and the engine receives only filtered air.
- Do: Seat new/clean filter correctly, replace cover, engage all clips/bolts. Reconnect breather/PCV hoses and sensors; tighten clamps snugly (hand-tight + 1/4 turn). Ensure no wires are pinched.

9) Functional check
- Theory: Restoring the sealed intake and correct airflow corrects mixture and sensor inputs, resolving rough idle, power loss, and reducing risk of engine damage from contaminants.
- Do: Start engine, listen for whistling/leaks, observe idle. Test drive; note improved throttle response, no surging, and no new CEL. Recheck clamps/sensors after a short drive.

How this repair fixes typical faults (summary)
- Replacing a clogged filter increases airflow, restoring power and fuel economy.
- Sealing or replacing a cracked housing eliminates unmetered air, stabilizing idle and ensuring correct fuel/air mixture (fixes lean codes and drivability issues).
- Reattaching or replacing hoses and sensors restores accurate airflow measurement and prevents contamination of the engine and sensors.

End.
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