Below are concise, technician-style instructions for changing transmission fluid on a Jeep Wrangler TJ (covering both automatic and manual transmissions). Read and follow the safety precautions, use the correct fluid specified for your vehicle, and replace filters/gaskets where applicable.

Tools & materials
- Vehicle jack and rated jack stands (or a lift)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (large)
- Socket set and ratchets (common sizes: 8–15 mm and 3/8–1/2" drive)
- Torque wrench
- Flat screwdriver or gasket scraper
- Clean rags and brake cleaner
- Nylon or brass brush (optional)
- Funnel and/or hand-operated fluid transfer pump (siphon/gear pump)
- New transmission fluid (manufacturer-specified type)
- New transmission filter (if automatic) and pan gasket (if serviceable)
- New crush washer(s) or sealing washer(s) for drain/fill plug(s)
- RTV sealant if required by gasket type (check parts)
- Gloves, eye protection
- Container/labels for used fluid; appropriate disposal method

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Use a proper jack and jack stands rated for the vehicle. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Let the vehicle cool if recently driven; parts may be hot.
- Wear gloves and eye protection; avoid skin contact with used fluid.
- Keep fire sources away from fluids.
- Clean spills immediately; used ATF/gear oil is slippery.

Important reminder: always use the transmission fluid grade and quantity specified by Jeep for your specific year/transmission. If unsure, consult the owner’s manual or service manual.

Procedure A — Automatic transmission (general TJ procedure)
Notes: Many Jeep automatics (TJ) use a pan/filter and dipstick. Full torque-converter fluid change requires a machine; draining the pan replaces only the pan volume.

1) Warm the vehicle
- Drive ~10 minutes to warm fluid (easier draining), then park on level ground, engine off, parking brake set, wheels chocked.

2) Raise and secure
- Jack the vehicle at recommended jacking points and place on jack stands. Ensure solid support and enough height to access pan and dipstick tube.

3) Position drain pan and remove pan bolts
- Slide drain pan under transmission pan.
- Break loose pan bolts around perimeter, but leave a few on the low side so the pan can tilt and drain slowly (avoids spills).
- If pan has a drain plug, remove it first and drain. If not, carefully remove the remaining bolts and lower the pan, letting fluid drain into pan.

4) Remove pan and service filter
- Once drained, lower pan completely. Clean pan interior and magnets — use a rag/brush and remove metal debris.
- Remove the old transmission filter (pull straight down). Some filters have O-rings; note orientation.
- Clean the filter mounting surface on the transmission.

5) Install new filter and gasket
- Install new filter (ensure proper seating). Replace pan gasket (or apply specified RTV where required). If pan bolts have crush washers or specified torque, follow service specs.

6) Reinstall pan and torque bolts
- Start all pan bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque (do not overtighten; typical low torque — check service manual).

7) Refill fluid
- Lower vehicle to level ground.
- Using the dipstick tube, insert a fluid pump hose and pump in new ATF until level reaches the HOT full mark on the dipstick (follow the manual for engine running/gear position — see below).
- If your TJ uses a fill plug instead of dipstick, fill until fluid reaches fill hole level or meets manufacturer procedure.

8) Check level and cycle
- Start engine, leave in PARK, and let run to operating temperature (warm up). With engine running and brake applied, cycle the shifter through all gears, pausing a few seconds in each, then return to Park.
- With engine idling and at normal operating temperature, check dipstick level and add fluid only to bring it to the correct HOT mark. Never overfill.

9) Final steps
- Inspect for leaks. Clean any drips. Lower vehicle if elevated.
- Road test under varied conditions, then recheck fluid level and torque of pan bolts after a short drive.

How the tools are used
- Fluid transfer pump: insert hose down dipstick tube; pump until level reaches prescribed mark. This avoids spills and gets fluid into torque converter.
- Torque wrench: tighten pan bolts to spec in a criss-cross/star pattern to ensure even seating.
- Drain pan: catch drained fluid and filter residue for inspection/disposal.

Common pitfalls (automatic)
- Not warming fluid first — slows draining and leaves more old fluid behind.
- Overfilling or checking level when cold — level must be checked as specified (usually with engine warm, running).
- Not replacing filter or gasket — causes internal contamination and leaks.
- Cross-threading or overtightening pan bolts — can crack pan or strip threads.
- Assuming a pan drain equals full fluid change — torque converter and cooler lines still contain old fluid; full flush requires equipment.

Replacement parts typically required (automatic)
- Transmission fluid (Mopar ATF+4 or whatever the manual calls for)
- Transmission filter
- Pan gasket or new RTV/manufacturer gasket
- Drain/fill plug washers (if applicable)

Procedure B — Manual transmission (general TJ procedure)
Notes: Manuals usually have a drain plug (bottom) and a fill plug (side/back). Always remove fill plug first to confirm you can refill.

1) Warm vehicle
- Drive briefly to warm fluid, then park level, set parking brake, chock wheels.

2) Access and safety
- Raise vehicle and secure on jack stands as needed to reach drain/fill plugs. Always chock and use stands.

3) Remove fill plug first
- Locate the fill plug (on the side of the transmission case). Remove it first — if it won’t come out you cannot refill and should not remove the drain plug.
- Removing fill plug also lets air in and makes drain faster. Note thread size and washer type.

4) Drain fluid
- Place drain pan under drain plug. Remove drain plug and allow fluid to drain completely. Inspect for metal shavings or debris (small amounts are normal; large chunks are not).
- Clean and inspect drain plug and magnet. Replace crush/sealing washer.

5) Reinstall drain plug
- Reinstall drain plug with new washer and torque to spec.

6) Refill through fill hole
- Using a pump or funnel, add the specified gear oil until fluid begins to drip from the fill hole (or until it reaches specified level). The fill hole is the level reference — when it slightly overflows, that’s full.
- Install the fill plug and torque to spec.

7) Final steps
- Lower vehicle, test shift through gears, check for leaks, road test and recheck fluid level after a short drive.

How the tools are used
- Small pump or funnel: insert into fill hole and pump fluid in until it overflows; funnel is used if enough clearance and to avoid air pockets.
- Socket/ratchet: remove/install fill and drain plugs. Torque wrench to spec on plugs to avoid stripping.

Common pitfalls (manual)
- Removing drain plug before confirming ability to refill (fill plug sometimes frozen).
- Not replacing crush washers — leads to leaks.
- Overfilling (fill until it starts to drip from the fill hole only).
- Using wrong fluid type (manuals usually require gear oil or specified viscosity; some Jeep manuals specify GL-4 gear oil).
- Not fully seating fill plug or cross-threading.

Replacement parts typically required (manual)
- Correct grade gear oil per owner/service manual
- New crush/sealing washers for drain and fill plugs (if required)

Final notes & disposal
- Quantities vary by transmission model and year. Do not guess — verify capacity and fluid grade from the vehicle's manual or parts supplier.
- Used transmission fluid must be disposed of at an authorized recycling center or waste oil facility.
- Keep records of service and the type/amount of fluid used.

That’s the procedure. Follow manufacturer torque specs and filling/leveling procedure exactly for your specific TJ transmission.
rteeqp73

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