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Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 repair manual download

1) Theory — what the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve does
- The IAC is a PCM‑controlled bypass that meters air around the throttle plate to hold target idle RPM under changing loads (cold start, A/C compressor, power steering, accessories).
- Implementation: on TJ engines it’s a small motor/pintle or solenoid assembly that moves to open/close a bypass passage. The PCM drives it in steps or with pulses to change bypass area and therefore airflow into the intake.
- When the IAC responds correctly, the PCM varies bypass airflow instead of trying to use throttle position; that lets idle be stable and automatic as loads change.

2) Common faults/symptoms
- High, low, or hunting/oscillating idle
- Stalls at idle or on decel
- Long crank time or erratic cold idle
- Check Engine Light with idle‑related codes (IAC, idle speed, or airflow imbalances)
- Visible carbon buildup in the bypass passage or a stuck pintle

3) Diagnosis — ordered checks (do these before replacing)
1. Scan for trouble codes and live data (IAC duty/position if available, engine temp, TPS). Note codes.
2. Visual and electrical quick checks:
- Inspect connector for corrosion, bent pins, or water intrusion.
- Wiggle wiring harness while watching live data for intermittent changes.
- Inspect throttle body and intake for heavy carbon/vacuum leaks.
3. Check for vacuum leaks (spray/throttle body smoke) and correct leaks first — leaks change idle and mask IAC function.
4. Command the IAC with a capable scan tool (if available): command open/close and watch RPM or observe pintle movement. No movement = mechanical or electrical failure.
5. If no scan tool: with engine off, remove IAC and check for free movement of pintle by hand (should move a little; not seized), and inspect the bypass and mating surfaces for carbon.
6. If wiring suspect, check connector continuity back to PCM and for power/ground presence per wiring diagram. (If you don’t have the exact pinout, don’t apply power directly to the device.)

If diagnosis points to contamination/sticking and wiring/PCM checks are good, cleaning is usually the fix. If electrical failure or internal motor damage, replace the IAC.

4) Tools and supplies
- Basic hand tools (sockets, ratchet, screwdrivers)
- Spray throttle body/carbon cleaner (non‑chlorinated)
- Clean shop rags, small brush or toothpick
- New gasket/O‑ring or replacement IAC if necessary
- Scan tool (recommended) or multimeter for tests
- Safety glasses, gloves

5) Procedure — ordered, to clean or replace the IAC
Note: follow these steps in order. Work with engine cool and battery disconnected only where noted for safety.
1. Safety: parking brake on, key off, engine cool. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be handling electrical connectors or removing sensors for >30 s (to avoid codes or accidental starts).
2. Locate the IAC: it’s mounted on/near the throttle body/intake manifold. Remove intake ducting as needed for access.
3. Unplug the electrical connector and remove mounting screws/bolts. Keep bolts safe.
4. Remove the IAC assembly carefully. Inspect the pintle and mating bore for carbon build‑up.
5. If replacing: install the new IAC with new gasket/O‑ring, torque bolts to spec, reconnect harness and intake ducting. Skip to step 10 for relearn/verify.
6. If cleaning:
a. Spray throttle body/carbon cleaner into the IAC bore and on the pintle. Let soak briefly.
b. Use a small brush or rag to remove carbon deposits. Avoid damaging the pintle tip or sealing surfaces.
c. Wipe dry, actuate the pintle gently to ensure it moves freely. Do not force beyond designed travel.
d. Clean the mating face on the throttle body/intake where the IAC seals.
7. Reinstall IAC with proper gasket/seal and torque bolts evenly. Reconnect the electrical connector.
8. Reinstall intake ducting and any removed components. Reconnect battery if disconnected.
9. Clear codes with a scan tool or by cycling ignition (optional but recommended).
10. Idle relearn/verification (ordered):
a. Start engine and let reach operating temperature with A/C off and trans in Park (or neutral for manual) — allow the PCM to control idle for ~2–3 minutes undisturbed.
b. Turn accessories on/off (A/C, lights) and observe that RPM changes are corrected quickly and smoothly.
c. If available, use a scan tool to command IAC positions and observe response and RPM changes. Confirm no related codes return.
11. Road test: drive under normal conditions and verify idle stability at stops and during load transitions.

6) How the repair fixes the fault — concise explanation
- Cleaning: removes carbon and varnish that block the bypass passage or stick the pintle. Restoring free movement lets the PCM vary bypass air as designed, returning proper idle control and preventing stalls/hunting.
- Replacement: replaces a mechanically seized or electrically failed motor/solenoid. If the IAC’s coils/stepper or internal gearing fail, the PCM can’t meter bypass air; a new unit restores the actuator so the PCM commands actually change airflow.
- Wiring/connector fixes: restore the control signals and reference ground to the IAC so the PCM’s outputs reach the device; without electrical continuity the actuator cannot move even if mechanically sound.
- Vacuum leak repair: if leaks were present, they change total intake airflow and force the PCM/IAC to extreme positions; fixing leaks returns the system to a range the IAC can manage.

7) Quick safety and reliability notes (no fluff)
- Avoid forcing the pintle; damage can deform the seal.
- Use the correct cleaner (throttle body/carbon cleaner) — some solvents damage seals.
- If codes persist after a good cleaning and verified wiring, replace the IAC and recheck PCM inputs (TPS, coolant temp, MAF/TP sensors) because the PCM needs correct sensor data to idle properly.

End.
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