Tools & supplies
- 2–3 ton floor jack + jack stands (or hoist). Wheel chocks.
- Drain pan, rags, shop towels, gloves, safety glasses.
- Socket set (metric & SAE), ratchet, extensions; breaker bar.
- Torque wrench.
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, pry bar.
- Seal puller or single‑hook seal puller / small slide‑hammer with adapter.
- Seal driver set or deep socket that exactly matches seal outer diameter.
- Pick set, needle‑nose pliers, snap‑ring pliers (if applicable).
- Brake cleaner or degreaser, shop brush.
- Gear oil (factory specification for transfer case — typically 75W‑90 GL‑5 or specified Mopar fluid), new transfer case seal (correct part for your year/model), possibly new flange bolts or snap ring.
- Thread locker (blue), light oil for lube.

Safety first
- Work on a level surface, chock front wheels, set parking brake.
- Support vehicle on jack stands under frame; never rely on the jack alone.
- Use eye protection when prying/pulling seals. Gloves protect against fluids.
- Drain fluids into a container and dispose/recycle properly.

What this covers
- Rear transfer‑case output shaft seal replacement on a Jeep Wrangler TJ (procedure is the same for the front output on many units). If your seal is internal or the case design differs, the transfer case may need to be removed — see note at the end.

Time estimate
- 1–3 hours on the bench/driveway. More if rusted bolts or case removal required.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Prepare and drain
- Park, chock, raise rear (or front) and support with jack stands. Remove underbody debris if needed.
- Locate transfer case fill and drain plugs. Remove the fill plug first (prevents vacuum), then remove the drain plug and drain fluid into pan.
- Clean fill/drain plugs; set plugs aside.

2) Remove driveshaft from the transfer case output
- Mark the driveshaft and flange orientation so it’s returned in the same phase.
- Remove the bolts that secure the driveshaft yoke to the transfer case flange (usually 4 bolts). Support the driveshaft so it doesn’t hang on the CVs/splines; slide the slip yoke out as needed and set the driveshaft aside.

3) Remove output flange/yoke (if applicable)
- On most TJ transfer cases (NP231 etc.) the output flange or yoke is bolted to the case. Remove the yoke/flange bolts and pull the flange off. You may need a pry or a soft‑mallet to break it free.
- Inspect for a snap ring or retaining clip behind the flange; remove it and keep it (replace if damaged).

4) Extract the old seal
- Identify the seal lip orientation before removal (lip faces the fluid).
- Use a seal puller or pick to catch the inner lip and pry the seal out. If using a slide hammer, use a correct adapter and pull straight out.
- Work slowly to avoid gouging or enlarging the seal bore. If the bore is scored or nicked, the new seal will leak — inspect closely.

How the tools are used
- Seal puller / pick: slide the hook under the seal lip and pry outward; rotate around the seal until it comes free.
- Slide hammer: screw or bolt the adapter into the old seal (or use a puller attachment) and pull straight back. Only use if the puller can engage the seal evenly.
- Deep socket / seal driver: choose a driver/socket with an outer diameter equal to the seal OD. Place over the seal and tap evenly with a hammer until the seal is flush with the case.

5) Clean and inspect
- Clean the bore with brake cleaner and rag. Remove all old seal material and debris.
- Inspect the output shaft splines and shaft surface for wear, groove or burrs. Dress very small nicks with fine emery; replace shaft if heavily scored.

6) Install the new seal
- Confirm the correct replacement seal (same inner/outer diameters and thickness). The open lip must face the fluid.
- Lightly coat the seal inner lip with transfer case fluid.
- Position the seal squarely to the bore; use a seal driver or the matching deep socket. Tap evenly with a hammer until the seal is fully seated and flush (or to the vehicle OEM spec — it should be even around the circumference).
- Do not drive the seal cocked or install it too deep — improper seating causes leaks and premature failure.

7) Reinstall flange/yoke and driveshaft
- Replace any snap ring/retaining clip with a new one if damaged.
- Reinstall the output flange/yoke. Coat bolts with blue Loctite if recommended and torque to factory spec (consult service manual — typical flange bolts around 40–60 ft‑lb depending on year and bolt size; verify exact spec).
- Reinstall driveshaft in original orientation using your marks. Torque flange bolts to spec.

8) Refill transfer case
- Reinstall drain plug if removed. Fill the transfer case to the bottom of the fill hole with the specified gear oil (factory manual for TJ typically recommends 75W‑90 GL‑5 for many transfer cases — verify for your year/model & transfer case code).
- Replace the fill plug and torque to spec.

9) Test and verify
- Lower vehicle. Start engine; cycle through 2WD/4WD/high/low (if applicable) to pump fluid and seat the seal.
- Recheck fluid level after cycling; top if needed.
- Inspect around the new seal while the vehicle idles and after a short test drive. Recheck torque on bolts after initial run‑in.

Common pitfalls & troubleshooting
- Removing the fill plug first is critical — removing a drain plug before the fill plug can trap fluid.
- Don’t gouge or widen the bore when pulling the old seal — that leads to repeat leaks.
- Installing the seal backwards is common — lip must face the fluid source (into transfer case).
- Using the wrong size seal driver will cock the seal and cause leakage. Use an exact OD driver/socket.
- Reusing damaged flange bolts or snap rings can lead to failure. Replace hardware if corroded or stretched.
- If splines or shaft are scored, a new seal won’t fix the leak — shaft or yoke likely needs replacement or professional repair.
- Some TJ transfer cases may have the seal behind internal bearings/covers; in that case the case must be removed or split to change the seal — don’t force a repair that seems internal.

Parts typically required
- New transfer case output seal (correct year/model/transfer case code).
- Possibly new flange bolts and snap ring/retaining clip.
- Transfer case gear oil (OEM spec).
- Optional: sealant (if the flange has a gasket surface) and blue thread locker.

Final note
- Always confirm torque specs and fluid type/amount with the factory service manual or reliable parts source for your exact TJ year and transfer case code. If the seal is inaccessible from the outside or the output shaft or bore is severely damaged, be prepared to remove the transfer case or consult a shop.
rteeqp73

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