Tools & supplies
- Floor jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet and metric/SAE socket set
- Assorted open-end and flare-nut (line) wrenches (6–19 mm / 1/4"–3/4") — get sets so you match the nut size
- Tubing cutter (auto brake line tubing cutter)
- Tubing bender (3/16" or 1/4" tube bender sized to line)
- Flaring tool set that supports inverted (45°) and double flares — if you must fabricate lines
- Bench vise (to hold tubing while flaring or bending)
- Replacement pre-bent hard lines or hose assemblies specific to Jeep TJ (recommended), or DOT-compatible brake tubing (3/16" common) plus new flare nuts if required
- New line clips/brackets/pigtails as needed
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 per owners manual) and clean catch pan
- Rubber gloves, safety glasses, shop rags, wire brush, penetrating oil (PB Blaster)
- Brake bleeder kit or clear hose + bottle, or pressure bleeder
- Torque wrench
- Marker/tape to tag lines, cap fittings/plugs to keep dirt out

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on a level surface, chock wheels, lift with jack and use jack stands—never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake fluid damages paint and skin.
- Keep a clean catch pan for fluid; wipe up spills immediately.
- Cap master cylinder/open lines quickly to minimize contamination and air ingress.
- If you are not 100% comfortable with brake systems, use pre-made replacement lines or have a shop perform the work. Improper brakes = danger.

Overview and strategy
- Best practice: replace with OE-style pre-bent hard lines or complete hose/line kits for the TJ. Fabricating lines is possible but requires correct flare type and tooling. The TJ commonly uses 3/16" steel brake line for wheel circuits; verify before buying. Do not mix flare types: match the original (verify whether inverted 45° or double flare) — if unsure, buy a direct-fit replacement line.

Step-by-step procedure

1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, block rear wheels.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly on wheels you will remove (if removing wheels).
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands. Remove wheels for access if needed.
- Clean work area and use penetrating oil on nuts/unions for several minutes.

2. Relieve system & protect master cylinder
- Remove master cylinder cap and, if necessary, siphon off excess fluid into a sealed container to minimize spillage (do not reuse contaminated fluid).
- Leave master cylinder capped while you open lines briefly; cap any open fittings with rubber caps or tape to keep dirt out.

3. Identify and tag lines
- Trace and tag the exact routing of the line(s) you are replacing. Take photos. Note location of clamps and clips.
- If replacing a hard line between two fittings: identify both ends (caliper/bleeder, union at hard-line block, ABS modulator, master cylinder, etc.).

4. Remove old line
- Put a catch pan under the work area.
- Using the correct-size flare-nut wrench, hold the male fitting and turn the nut—apply steady force. Use penetrating oil and short back-and-forth to break corrosion. Never round off the nut—if rounding begins, use extraction or replace the fitting.
- Remove mounting clips and any bracket bolts. If the line is rust-fused at a bracket, cut it between clamps and replace clip and a short section if needed.
- For flexible hose-to-caliper unions, remove the banjo bolt (use new copper crush washers on reassembly) or remove the hose retaining bolt at the caliper.

How to use key tools (short how-tos)
- Flare-nut (line) wrench: slip the wrench fully over the nut so most of the nut is enclosed; use short, steady force. Don’t pry at an angle.
- Tubing cutter: score the tube by rotating cutter around the tube, tightening gradually until it cuts cleanly through. Keep the cut square; back the cutter off and deburr inside and out before flaring.
- Tubing bender: position tube in the correct-sized groove, support near the bend to prevent kinking, make bend slowly to the needed radius. Always test-bend scrap tube first to match routing.
- Flaring tool: (1) cut and deburr tube square; (2) install tube in the flaring bar to correct depth (use gauge from old tube or chart); (3) clamp; (4) form the flare using the driver for inverted 45° or the double-flare cone as required. Inspect the flare for concentricity, no cracks, and full contact. If you are not experienced, do not reuse a questionable flare — use a pre-bent line.

5. Install new line
- If using a pre-formed OE replacement line: orient it exactly as removed and route through the same clips/brackets. Use new clips if old ones are rusted.
- If fabricating: flare both ends correctly and install with appropriate flare nuts. Ensure the flare seats fully on the male fitting.
- Fit banjo bolts with new crush washers (one on either side of the banjo) and torque to spec.
- Tighten flare nuts by hand first, then snug with flare-nut wrench; turn to manufacturer torque if available. Typical small brake flare nuts are tightened into the 20–35 ft·lb range — check TSB or manual for exact Jeep TJ specs. Do not overtighten, which can damage the flare.

6. Re-assembly of clamps/lines & clean up
- Replace all clips and bracket bolts; ensure the line does not touch moving suspension components or the exhaust. Leave a little slack where needed for axle movement.
- Clean any spilled fluid from painted surfaces immediately to avoid damage.

7. Bleed the brakes (remove air)
- Top up master cylinder with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid to “MAX” before bleeding.
- Bleed sequence (left-hand-drive TJ commonly): right rear, left rear, right front, left front — or follow a pressure-bleeder instruction that bests your setup. Use a pedal-held firm method or pressure bleeder; ensure a firm pedal.
- Two-person bench: one pumps pedal then holds, the other opens bleeder, closes, repeat until clear fluid with no air bubbles. Keep reservoir topped.
- If vehicle has ABS and you opened lines near ABS modulator, cycle ABS per manual or use a scanner to cycle pump/valves after bleeding.

8. Final checks
- With engine off, press brake pedal for firmness, check for leaks at every fitting.
- Torque any line-clamp bolts to spec.
- Reinstall wheels, torque lug nuts to spec, lower vehicle.
- Road-test at low speed in a safe area: verify pedal feel, straight-line stopping, and re-check for leaks.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Rounding flare nuts: use proper-size flare-nut wrench, penetrating oil, heat (if safe) or cut and replace the fitting if seized.
- Wrong flare type or size: confirm original flare style or buy direct-fit replacement lines — fabrication mistakes are a common failure cause.
- Kinking hard line: use a proper tube bender; do not try to “bend by hand.” A kink ruins the line and causes a weak spot.
- Dirty/fluid-contaminated master cylinder: cap open ports and avoid sucking old fluid back into reservoir; always use clean fluid and a clean funnel.
- Not replacing soft hoses when replacing hard line: inspect rubber hoses; if cracked or swollen, replace them too.
- Insufficient bleeding: pedal spongy; always fully bleed and cycle ABS if applicable.
- Routing near moving parts or heat: line rubbing will wear through—ensure secure clips and safe routing.

Replacement parts typically required
- Direct-fit replacement hard brake line(s) or hose assembly(ies) for the TJ model year and side
- New flare nuts or union nuts if damaged
- New banjo bolt and copper crush washers if removing banjo-style fittings
- New clips/brackets that hold the line (clips commonly corroded)
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified)

Post-repair verification
- No leaks under pressure after 24 hours and after test drive.
- Brake pedal firm and consistent over multiple stops.
- Re-check torque on wheels and any fasteners after first test drive.

If you must fabricate lines instead of using pre-formed parts: match tube size and flare type to the original, practice flares on scrap tubing until perfect, and always pressure-test and leak-check before finishing.

End.
rteeqp73

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