1) What a shock absorber does (theory, short)
- Function: a shock absorber converts relative motion between axle and body into heat via a piston moving through hydraulic fluid and/or gas. It provides velocity-dependent damping (forces proportional to piston speed) that dissipates kinetic energy and quickly damps suspension oscillations after bumps.
- Effect on vehicle: keeps tires in contact with the road, controls body motions (bounce, roll, pitch), reduces wheel hop and braking squat.
- Failure signs: excessive bounce after a bump, nose-dive on braking, poor steering control, increased stopping distance, uneven tire wear, visible oil leaks or damaged shafts/boots.

2) Why replacing a worn shock fixes the fault (theory)
- Worn shocks have reduced internal valving or lost fluid/gas, so they cannot produce required damping force. Replacing restores correct damping coefficient and stroke control, so oscillations are suppressed, wheel control returns, contact patch is maintained, and handling/braking improve.

3) Preparatory checks and parts/tools (theory + why)
- Parts: correct shocks for your TJ (front vs rear, stock vs lifted length). Matching pair per axle recommended so damping is symmetrical.
- Tools: floor jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket/ratchet set, torque wrench, penetrating oil, pry bar, hammer, replacement bolts/nuts if supplied, safety eyewear, gloves.
- Why: correct length/valving ensures geometry/ride height and damping match; torque wrench ensures proper clamping without damaging mounts.

4) Safety and vehicle support (in order)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake. Use parking brake to hold if working on only one end.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly before jacking.
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack at the recommended lift point; place jack stands under solid frame points. Lower vehicle onto stands; do not rely on the jack.
- Why: shocks are part of suspension — when you remove them the axle/body will move; secure support prevents collapse and isolates load so you can remove hardware safely.

5) Relieve suspension/load before removal (order + theory)
- Support the axle with a second jack (or lower the vehicle until tire just touches ground) so there is minimal load on the shock. The idea is to stabilize the axle so the shock’s bolts are not under tension/compression.
- Why: if the shock is under load, bolts can be difficult to remove and the suspension may snap when hardware is removed.

6) Remove wheel (order + why)
- Remove lug nuts and wheel to gain working space.
- Why: gives access and reduces weight/obstruction; safer and easier to manipulate the shock and hardware.

7) Inspect and loosen fasteners (order + how/why)
- Apply penetrating oil to upper and lower shock mounting bolts and let soak.
- Identify upper mount (inside fender/underbody) and lower mount (axle bracket/leaf spring mount). Some TJ rear shocks have the lower bolt accessible from below or behind the axle.
- Why: penetrating oil helps free seized bolts; knowing bolt locations avoids damage.

8) Remove lower mounting bolt first (order + theory)
- While the axle is supported, remove the lower shock bolt or nut and push the bolt out. Use a breaker bar or impact if needed.
- Why remove lower first: it lets the shock pivot and reduces binding at the upper mount so you can access the upper nut without forcing it.

9) Remove upper mounting nut and extract shock (order + how/why)
- Remove upper nut(s) and withdraw the shock downwards. Some upper mounts use a stud/nut, others use bolt through a bracket; keep track of washers/bushings and their orientation.
- Inspect bushings, sleeves, and mount surfaces. Replace worn bushings if needed.
- Why: extraction allows inspection of mounts; bushings transmit load and isolate vibration — worn bushings degrade performance even with new shock.

10) Compare old vs new shock (order + why)
- Lay shocks side-by-side, check compressed and extended length, mounting points, and travel. Ensure bushings and sleeves match or are replaced.
- Why: wrong-length or wrong-mounting shocks will alter ride height and geometry and can bind or bottom out.

11) Install new shock (order + theory)
- Fit the new shock into the upper mount and loosely thread the upper nut or insert upper bolt (do not final-torque yet).
- Align lower mount and insert the lower bolt; install nut and hand-tighten.
- Orient the shock the same direction as original (some are valved/directional).
- Why: starting both ends hand-tight avoids putting the shock in a binding angle; final torque with correct axle position ensures bushings are not preloaded or twisted.

12) Set suspension to normal ride height, then torque hardware (order + why)
- Lower or raise the axle so the suspension is at normal ride height (or support at the same height as when the wheel is on the ground).
- Torque upper and lower mounting hardware to factory specifications with a torque wrench.
- Why: bushings are designed to sit without twist at static ride height; torquing at correct height prevents premature bushing failure and maintains geometry.

13) Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, final torque (order)
- Install wheel, snug lug nuts, lower vehicle to ground, torque lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
- Why: correct wheel torque is a safety requirement and avoids warped rotors/wheel issues.

14) Post-install checks and test (order + theory)
- Visually inspect for clearance and rubbing. Check that shock shaft boots and mounts are correctly seated.
- Road test progressively: start with low-speed bumps, listen for clunks. Perform a bounce test — vehicle should settle in one or two oscillations. Confirm improved braking stability and reduced body motion.
- Why: ensures installation is correct and damping behavior is restored; early checks catch loose hardware.

15) Additional practical notes (short, no fluff)
- Replace shocks in axle pairs (both fronts or both rears) for balanced damping.
- If bolts are seized, heat (carefully) and penetrating oil help; never shock the vehicle or put yourself under unsupported load.
- Use new hardware if supplied or if original is damaged; torque to manufacturer specs (service manual).
- If you have a lift or large lift kit, match shock length and valving to lift and intended use (on-/off-road).

16) How the whole repair fixes the specific faults (recap)
- Removing the failed shock and installing a new one restores hydraulic damping: the piston/valve in the new unit generates the proper counterforce to piston speed. That stops excessive oscillation, keeps the tire in contact with the road, reduces body roll and pitch, eliminates wheel hop and bottoming, improves braking stability and steering feedback, and prevents uneven tire wear.

Done.
rteeqp73

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