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Jeep Grand Cherokee WH WK factory workshop and repair manual download

Quick overview
- What you’re doing: replacing/setting the ring-and-pinion gear set inside the differential (the “gear set”) so the drive torque from the driveshaft turns the axle shafts correctly and quietly.
- Why: worn or mis-set gears/bearings make noise, vibrate, overheat, eat bearings, leak, and can fail catastrophically. Proper assembly requires correct pinion preload and ring gear backlash/pinion depth to get a correct tooth contact pattern.
- Big idea (analogy): ring-and-pinion = a 90° bicycle chain/gear that transfers power at a right angle. Backlash and pinion depth are like chain tension and how the chain sits on the sprocket teeth — too tight or too loose, and things bind, rattle, or wear fast.

Parts — detailed descriptions
- Pinion gear (drive pinion): small bevel gear driven by the driveshaft/companion flange. Rides on the pinion bearing and sets mesh with the ring gear.
- Pinion bearings (inner and outer) and races: support the pinion and control its axial/radial location.
- Pinion crush sleeve or shim pack: controls pinion bearing preload (axial squeeze). Crush sleeve is a one-time-deformable spacer; shims are adjustable stacks.
- Pinion nut or retaining nut/bolt: clamps bearings/pinion preload.
- Pinion seal (front pinion seal): keeps gear oil in.
- Ring gear: large bevel gear bolted to the differential carrier; meshes with the pinion.
- Differential carrier (carrier or case): holds the ring gear and the differential spider gears; sits on carrier bearings.
- Carrier bearings and races: support the carrier in the housing; their position (shims or adjustable cap) sets backlash.
- Carrier bearing caps and bolts: clamp the carrier in the housing; must be torqued correctly and sometimes replaced with new bolts.
- Differential side/spider gears (spider gears, side gears, thrust washers): the internal differential that lets wheels turn at different speeds.
- Axle shafts and axle bearings/seals: transfer torque from carrier side gears to the wheels.
- Gasket/sealant, drain/fill plugs, breather.
- Gear oil (correct spec; limited-slip fluid if needed), friction modifier (if LSD).
- Tools & measuring devices: torque wrench, inch-pound torque wrench (for pinion preload), dial indicator with magnetic base (for backlash), bearing puller/press, seal driver, gear marking compound (Prussian blue or similar), micrometer/caliper, depth gauge, shop press or hydraulic press, breaker bar, heat source (oven/induction) for ring gear, pilot tool for pinion bearings (optional), shop manual with torque and spec sheets.

Theory — what must be set and why
- Pinion depth: how deeply the pinion tooth sits into the ring gear teeth. This controls the position of contact on the tooth face (towards toe or heel). Wrong depth produces poor contact (edge loading) and rapid wear/noise.
- Backlash: the small rotational play between ring gear teeth and pinion teeth. Too little → binding and rapid wear. Too much → clattering and premature gear tooth chipping.
- Pinion preload: the axial preload on pinion bearings. Too light → looseness and gear slop; too heavy → bearing heat/failure and distorted gear mesh.
- Contact pattern: the visible imprint of gear tooth contact when you use marking compound. You want the pattern centered on the face width and slightly towards the toe or heel per manual — that indicates correct depth/backlash.

Safety & parts notes
- Use jack stands on a level surface. Secure vehicle, disconnect battery. Differential components are heavy; use a helper or hoist.
- Replace bearings, crush sleeve (if present), pinion seal, and ring gear bolts (many are torque-to-yield). Don’t reuse the crush sleeve. Replace any worn gears or bearings — you can’t set correct preload/backlash with worn parts.
- Always consult and follow the factory service manual for your exact model’s torque specs, backlash range, and pinion preload target. Values vary by axle.

Step-by-step procedure (concise but complete)
Preparation
1. Gather parts and shop manual. Order a ring-and-pinion set, new bearings/races, seal(s), crush sleeve/shims, ring gear bolts, and gear oil. Have correct tools ready.
2. Jack up vehicle, place on stands, remove wheels and brakes as required to remove axle shafts/half shafts. Drain differential oil via drain plug.

Disassembly
3. Remove differential cover (if flange type) or remove axle shafts to open housing. Drain fluid fully.
4. Mark bearing cap orientation and housing faces so you can re-install exactly as removed. Remove carrier bearing caps and remove carrier assembly (be cautious of heavy carrier and ring gear).
5. Remove ring gear: unbolt ring gear from carrier. If reusing carrier, clean and inspect. If reusing ring, inspect for pitting/scoring — generally replace ring & pinion as a matched set.
6. Remove pinion: remove pinion nut, flange/shaft, and pull out the pinion assembly. Remove pinion bearings and races (press out) and pinion seal. Note if there is a crush sleeve — it will need replacement.

Inspection & cleaning
7. Thoroughly clean housing and components. Inspect ring & pinion teeth for pitting, scoring, or chipped teeth. Measure bearings for play; check races for scores. Replace anything out of spec.
8. Inspect axle splines, carrier, and housing bores for damage. Replace worn or cracked parts.

Installing new bearings/races
9. Heat the ring gear (oven to ~200°F or torch carefully) to expand it and press it onto carrier for easier fit, or press gear on cold if you have the press. Torque ring bolts in sequence to specified torque. Use thread locker or new bolts as required.
10. Install new bearing races in the housing using driver; press on new bearings on carrier and pinion per manual.

Setting pinion preload
11. Install pinion with new inner & outer bearings and a new crush sleeve or shims. If crush sleeve: install sleeve and bearings, install pinion flange and pinion nut, torque per manual to a specified crush torque. After tightening, measure pinion rotation torque (pinion preload) with an inch-pound torque wrench. Typical light preload numbers for many rear axles are roughly 10–35 in-lb, but this varies — follow manual.
12. If shim-set pinion: set pinion depth with shim thickness and re-check bearing preload. Final preload is measured as a rotational torque. You want a smooth, firm rotation per spec.

Rough-setting ring gear & backlash
13. Install carrier with ring gear and carrier bearings into the housing with new or original shims that place the carrier close to the required backlash. Hand-tighten caps to hold in place.
14. Using a dial indicator on the ring gear tooth, measure backlash by holding the ring and rotating the pinion back and forth to take the lash measurement. Adjust carrier shim thickness to obtain target backlash (typically in the 0.006–0.014" range for many vehicles — check manual). Adjust until inside spec.

Optimize pinion depth then re-check backlash
15. Backlash and pinion depth interact: to get correct tooth contact, set depth using pinion shim/crush changes and then set backlash with carrier shims. Each time you change pinion depth, recheck backlash.
16. After rough setting, use gear marking compound on ring gear teeth, rotate the ring several revolutions under load (apply brake or hold input) and check pattern. The marking indicates where the pinion tooth contacts the ring tooth (heel/face/center/toe).
17. Interpret pattern: ideal is centered across face width and somewhat toward the toe or root per manual. If pattern is too close to face or heel, change pinion depth (thicker or thinner shim) to move it. If pattern is too close to the root or edge, adjust carrier backlash with shims.

Fine-tuning
18. Iterate: change pinion shim (or replace crush sleeve if needed), change carrier shims, press bearings on/off as needed, and re-check pinion preload, backlash, and pattern until pattern and preload meet specs.
19. Once satisfied, torque ring gear bolts to final spec (in sequence and with correct thread locker) and torque carrier cap bolts to spec.
20. Reinstall pinion nut to final torque/retention spec. Install pinion seal and flange as required.

Reassembly & final checks
21. Clean housing sealing surfaces, install cover/gasket or RTV sealant, tighten bolts to spec. Reinstall axles/half-shafts, brake components, wheels.
22. Fill with correct gear oil and, if limited slip, the correct additive.
23. Test-rotate and listen for noise with vehicle on stands. Road test at low speed first, then progressively higher. Re-check for leaks and re-check backlash/pattern if abnormal noise appears.

How to read gear marking compound (quick guide)
- Apply thin layer to about 6–8 teeth on ring at several positions.
- Rotate several full turns under load to produce a clear pattern.
- The blue/colored impression will show the contact patch. Movement toward toe/heel informs pinion depth changes; movement toward face/root informs backlash/crowd.
- Acceptable pattern: centered on face width, slightly toward toe or heel per manual. Bad patterns: heavy edge wear, thin line at edge, or contact near root.

Common things that go wrong and symptoms
- Wrong pinion preload: if too low → clunking, spur wear; if too high → bearing overheating and premature failure.
- Wrong backlash: too much → gear whine and clunk at load changes; too little → binding, overheating, chipped teeth.
- Incorrect pinion depth: edge-loading, rapid wear, noisy gear. You’ll see the wrong contact patch on marking compound.
- Reusing a crush sleeve: can give incorrect preload. Replace crush sleeve.
- Reusing worn bearings or races: impossible to get a proper preload/backlash and will cause rework/failure.
- Improperly torqued ring bolts or loose carrier caps: catastrophic failure; bolts usually torque-to-yield or tight specs.
- Contamination: dirt in bearings or gear oil causes premature wear.
- Using wrong gear oil or wrong additive for LSD: chatter, overheating, poor wear protection.

Troubleshooting after assembly
- Howling/whine at cruising speed: usually backlash/pinion depth or worn crown/pinion; recheck pattern and backlash.
- Clunk on acceleration/decel: pinion preload too light or worn splines/axle shims.
- Overheating bearings: pinion preload too tight.
- Noise on turns only: wheel bearing, CV joint, or carrier load issues — could be bearing or side gear wear.

Final tips for a beginner
- This job is precision work: expect several disassembly/reassembly cycles to get patterns correct. Don’t rush.
- Use the factory service manual for exact specs for your WH/WK axle code; values vary by axle.
- If you can, practice with a scrap carrier/ring-pinions or get a professional to show one overhaul once.
- Consider having the ring-and-pinion set installed and set up by a shop the first time if you are not comfortable interpreting patterns — mistakes can be expensive.

Quick tool checklist
- Dial indicator & magnetic base
- Inch-pound torque wrench for pinion preload
- Full-size torque wrench
- Press and bearing drivers or hydraulic press
- Bearing puller
- Seal drivers
- Gear marking compound
- Micrometer/caliper
- Heat source (oven/torch, carefully)
- New bearings, races, ring & pinion set, crush sleeve/shims, pinion seal, ring bolts, gasket/oil, thread locker

This is an overview aimed at a competent beginner mechanic. Follow the vehicle’s factory service manual exactly for spec values (pinion preload torque or inch-lb, backlash range, ring gear bolt torque, etc.). Doing the job without the correct specs or skipping bearing/race replacement risks damaging the new gear set.
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