1) Safety and preparation
- Park on level alignment rack or perfectly flat floor. Wheels straight ahead, parking brake on. Load the vehicle to normal ride condition (fuel, spare, one person or equivalent).
- Inflate tires to spec, check tire pressures and wear patterns. Steer wheel should be centered (note steering wheel orientation).
Theory: alignment measurements assume nominal ride height and tire contact patch. Incorrect pressures or unusual load change camber/toe under load.

2) Pre-alignment mechanical inspection (do this before measuring)
- Inspect tires for uneven wear, cupping, feathering. Measure tread depths across tread.
- Check wheel runout (radial/lateral) and wheel/tire assembly balance.
- Inspect suspension and steering for play or damage: tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, swaybar links, rack bushings, strut mounts, rear trailing arms, subframe mounts. Pry test or use dial indicators if needed.
- Check ride height front and rear and compare to spec (sagging springs or air suspension faults).
Theory: worn/bent components change geometry under load or allow movement between measurements and driving, so adjustments will not hold or will be inaccurate. Tire wear patterns tell you which angle was wrong (toe = feathering, camber = inner/outer wear, cupping = worn shocks/parts).

3) Mount alignment sensors and zero the system
- Attach wheel sensors, input vehicle parameters (wheelbase, track width, axle specs) or select model in the alignment machine. Center the steering wheel and lock it in the centered position if machine requires.
Theory: alignment machines compute angles relative to steering axis and vehicle centerline; accurate mounting and vehicle data are essential for correct readings.

4) Initial measurement — read all angles
- Record front toe (each side and total), front camber, front caster, SAI/steering axis inclination, thrust angle, rear toe, rear camber, and rear total toe. Note steering wheel angle and any lateral offset.
Theory: these values define wheel plane orientation. Caster and camber affect dynamic tire load distribution and steering return; toe primarily affects scrub and wear; thrust angle shows rear axle alignment relative to vehicle centerline.

5) Diagnose from measurements
- Excessive toe in/out (front): causes feathering/accelerated wear and vague steering. If toe bias is equal both sides but total is fine, steering wheel likely off-center.
- Excessive positive/negative camber: causes inner/outer wear, affects straight-line stability and cornering grip.
- Caster out of spec (usually affects left vs right): causes steering pull or off-center steering wheel; too little = light steering and poor self-centering.
- Thrust angle not zero: rear axle is angled relative to vehicle centerline — vehicle will track off and steering wheel may be off-center.
- Asymmetrical readings: suspect bent arm, subframe misalignment, or worn bushings.
Theory: mapping symptoms to specific angles lets you know which geometry parameter to correct or whether a worn/bent component must be repaired first.

6) Repair or replace worn/damaged parts as needed
- Replace ball joints, tie rod ends, control arms, bushings, or struts as required. Repair bent control arms or subframe damage.
- Correct ride height (replace sagging springs, fix air suspension).
How repair fixes fault: worn joints/bushings allow unwanted movement under load and change geometry dynamically; replacing them restores fixed pivot points so alignment adjustments are stable and the suspension behaves as measured.

7) Adjustment sequence — why order matters
- Typical sequence: adjust camber/caster (if adjustable) first, then toe, then center steering wheel and recheck thrust angle; finish with total toe verification.
- Reason: camber/caster changes can alter toe; toe adjustments (tie rods) are simplest and should be done last to reach final toe spec after camber/caster are set.
- For rear: set toe or toe link adjustments and thrust angle. If thrust angle is off and rear has no adjustment, rear axle/subframe repair is required.
Theory: angles are interdependent. Adjusting an angle that influences another will require rechecking and prevents chasing errors.

8) How each adjustment is made and why it fixes the symptom
- Toe (front/rear): adjusted at the tie rods (front) or toe control links (rear). Turning tie rod ends moves wheel leading/trailing edge inward/outward.
- Fixes: reduces scrubbing across tread, stops feathering, improves straight-line tracking. Final toe sets steer response—more toe-in increases straight-line stability; toe-out increases turn-in agility.
- Camber: adjusted via upper control arm eccentric, cam bolts, strut top mounts, or adjustable camber bolts/plates (vehicle-specific).
- Fixes: brings tire vertical axis into spec so contact patch is maximized. Correcting camber removes inner/outer edge wear and restores tire footprint during cornering.
- Caster: adjusted by changing fore-aft position of control arm mounting or adjustable caster bolts/offset bushings on some vehicles.
- Fixes: restores steering self-centering and high-speed stability. Proper caster also creates camber gain in turns for better tire loading.
- Thrust angle/rear toe: adjusted by moving rear toe links or axle lateral position (shims, adjustable links) or repairing bent subframe.
- Fixes: aligns rear axle to vehicle centerline so rear wheels push the car straight; corrects off-center steering wheel and directional pull.
- SAI/steering axis inclination: not normally adjustable; if out of spec there’s bent knuckle or damaged steering component to repair.
- Fixes: maintain predictable steering geometry and returnability; repair replaces the bent part to restore geometry.

9) Recheck and fine-tune
- After making adjustments, re-measure all angles. Drive the vehicle a short distance (few blocks) and recheck to allow suspension to settle.
- Ensure steering wheel is centered and the vehicle tracks straight. Confirm tire wear patterns are addressed.
Theory: settling and re-torquing can slightly shift angles; final verification ensures adjustments held and suspension behaves in real-world conditions.

10) Road test and verification
- Perform a controlled road test at various speeds, check for pull, wander, returnability, and steering wheel off-center. Re-inspect tires after a few hundred miles for wear pattern improvement.
Theory: static alignment is a prediction; dynamic driving validates that geometry yields intended handling and wear characteristics.

Quick mapping of common faults to fixes
- Inner-edge wear on front tires → negative camber too great or worn upper control arm bushing → adjust camber or replace bushing/control arm.
- Feathered wear → incorrect toe (adjust tie rods).
- Vehicle drifts or steering wheel off-center with front toe OK → rear thrust angle off or rear toe incorrect (adjust rear links or repair axle).
- Pull to one side → unequal camber/caster or tire pressure/drag brakes; diagnose camber/caster and mechanical issues.
- Rapid cupping → worn shocks/struts or loose components → replace dampers and worn parts.

Final notes
- Always use factory alignment specifications for the WH/WK model and the exact year/trim. If an angle is out of range and cannot be brought into range, identify and fix the underlying worn or bent component first.
- Alignment measurements are relative and interdependent; follow the ordered approach: inspect/repair → measure → adjust camber/caster → adjust toe → recheck → road test.

End.
rteeqp73

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