Tools & supplies
- DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid (use the spec in the owner’s manual — do NOT use DOT 5 silicone)
- Clear 3/16–1/4" vinyl tubing and a catch bottle (one-way valve recommended)
- 8, 10, 11, or 12 mm flare/box wrench (bleeder size varies) or a bleeder wrench set
- Brake bleeder kit (pressure-type cap adapter) OR vacuum bleeder (Mityvac) OR assistant for manual bleeding
- Jack, jackstands and wheel chocks
- Lug wrench
- Gloves, eye protection
- Brake cleaner, shop rags
- Small screwdriver or pick (to remove bleeder caps)
- Container for old fluid and drip rag
- Torque wrench (for wheels)
- Optional: OBD-II scanner with ABS bleed function (if ABS-equipped)

Safety first
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack — use jackstands.
- Brake fluid is corrosive to paint — cover painted surfaces and wipe spills immediately.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Dispose of used fluid at a recycling facility.

Preparation
1. Check owner’s manual for DOT spec and reservoir location. Clean the reservoir cap area before opening to avoid contamination.
2. Lift the vehicle and secure on jackstands. Remove wheels or at least access to bleed nipples.
3. Remove reservoir cap and diaphragm, then clean around and leave the cap off or loosely fitted so pressure doesn’t build. Keep reservoir topped with fresh fluid throughout.
4. Locate bleeder screws on calipers/drums: typical LHD bleed sequence — farthest to nearest from master cylinder: rear passenger (RR), rear driver (LR), front passenger (RF), front driver (LF).

Common methods — pick one

A. Two-person (no special tools)
- Tools used: clear tubing, catch bottle, flare/box wrench.
Steps:
1. Fit clear tubing over bleeder nipple; other end into catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid (keeps air out).
2. Have assistant press brake pedal 3–4 times and hold firm (don’t pump rapidly).
3. You open the bleeder ~1/4 turn. Fluid + air will flow into tubing. Close the bleeder before assistant releases pedal.
4. Repeat until fluid runs clear and solid (no bubbling). Keep reservoir topped.
5. Move to next wheel in sequence.
6. After final wheel, have assistant press and hold, open quickly and close to remove any final air. Check pedal firmness — should be firm, not spongy.
7. Clean and tighten bleeder (snug), replace caps, torque wheels, lower vehicle, top reservoir to max, and test drive carefully.

B. Vacuum bleeder (single person)
- Tools: Mityvac-type vacuum pump, tubing.
Steps:
1. Attach vacuum pump to bleeder nipple using tubing.
2. Pump to create vacuum (15–20 inHg typical).
3. Open bleeder. Watch fluid draw into the tank. Keep reservoir topped.
4. When clear fluid, close bleeder, release vacuum, move to next wheel.
5. Follow same post-bleed checks.

C. Pressure bleeder (recommended single-person professional method)
- Tools: pressure bleeder cap or adapter that pressurizes the master cylinder reservoir (15–20 psi).
Steps:
1. Fill bleeder bottle with fresh fluid, attach to reservoir per adapter instructions, pressurize lightly (~15 psi).
2. Start at farthest wheel. Attach clear tubing to bleeder nipple and bottle to let fluid return to the reservoir bottle or to a waste container.
3. Open bleeder; fluid will push through until clear. Close bleeder then move to the next wheel.
4. Keep an eye on reservoir pressure and level. Never exceed ~20 psi.
5. After all wheels, relieve pressure, top reservoir and road test.

ABS-equipped TJ notes
- If your TJ has ABS, air can be trapped in the ABS modulator. Best results: use a pressure bleeder and an OBD-II scan tool with ABS pump activation to cycle the ABS module while bleeding. If you don’t have a scan tool, a pressure bleeder helps; after bleeding, a controlled drive where ABS activates a couple times can help purge remaining air. If ABS light appears after bleeding, a dedicated ABS bleed cycle may be needed.

How to use the tools (short specifics)
- Clear tubing & bottle: push tubing end fully over bleeder nipple and secure with clamp if needed. Keep end submerged in a little brake fluid in the bottle to prevent air being sucked back.
- Vacuum pump (Mityvac): attach hose to nipple, hand pump to ~15–20 inHg. Open bleeder; maintain vacuum until clear. Close bleeder before releasing vacuum.
- Pressure bleeder: follow the adapter’s instructions. Tighten the cap adapter to the reservoir, pressurize to ~15 psi with the hand pump, then open bleeders sequentially. Keep pressure constant.

Replacement parts & wear items
- New bleeder screws: replace if stuck, rounded or leaking.
- Bleeder caps: replace missing caps to keep dirt out.
- Brake hoses: inspect for cracks/bulges — replace if suspected.
- Copper crush washers or banjo bolt washers: replace when removing brake line banjo bolts (e.g., if replacing calipers/hoses).
- ABS module repair only if leaks, malfunction, or air won’t purge.

Final checks
1. Ensure reservoir is filled to MAX, install cap and diaphragm.
2. Torque wheels to spec, lower vehicle.
3. Pump brake pedal with engine off to build firm pedal. Start engine and press pedal to check for proper assist.
4. Inspect all bleed nipples, lines and calipers for leaks.
5. Road test at low speed; confirm consistent pedal firmness and braking performance.
6. Re-check fluid level after test; top if necessary.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Letting the master cylinder reservoir run dry: always keep it topped to avoid drawing air.
- Using wrong fluid: never use DOT 5 silicone or mix incompatible fluids.
- Over-pressurizing reservoir: pressure bleeder >20 psi can damage seals.
- Breaking or rounding off bleeder screws: use the correct-size flare/box wrench, not sockets. Penetrating oil on rusty screws beforehand helps.
- Not following correct wheel sequence: leaves air in lines closest to master cylinder.
- Not cycling ABS if equipped: can leave air trapped in ABS module.
- Getting fluid on paint: brake fluid destroys paint — clean spills immediately.

When to call a shop
- If a bleeder screw snaps or is seized.
- If pedal remains spongy after bleeding and ABS module cycling.
- If you find leaking hard lines or ABS/modulator problems.

That’s it: methodically keep the reservoir full, work from farthest-to-closest, use the chosen bleeding tool correctly, avoid letting the MC go dry, and reuse/replace worn bleeder parts as needed.
rteeqp73

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