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Jeep Wrangler TJ 1998-1999 repair manual download

Tools & materials
- Floor jack + quality jack stands (2) + wheel chocks
- 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets, breaker bar, metric & SAE sockets and wrenches
- Torque wrench
- Ball-joint press kit (C-frame press with large forcing screw and assorted cups/adapters) — full kit that fits Dodge/Jeep knuckles
- Pitman/tie rod end separator or 2‑jaw ball joint separator (pickle fork only as last resort)
- Large hammer, dead blow, cold chisel, punch
- Drill and bits (for drilling out rivets) and/or grinder
- Punch/center punch
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Shop rags, grease, rubber mallet
- Replacement parts: new ball joint(s) (upper and/or lower as needed), new castle nuts and cotter pins (replace, don’t reuse), rivets/bolts if original ball joints are riveted — many aftermarket joints include hardware or sleeves
- Grease gun and grease (if new joints are serviceable)
- Anti-seize / thread locker (as recommended by part maker)
- Safety: eye protection, gloves

Safety & prep
- Work on level ground, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen lug nuts with wheel on the ground, then lift vehicle and secure on stands under solid axle housing and/or frame per shop manual.
- Never rely on the jack alone; use stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- Support the axle with a jack under the axle tube (not steering knuckle) when disconnecting ball joints to prevent sudden droop and CV/drive damage.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of press path.

Overview of drivetrain on TJ
- Jeep Wrangler TJ front uses a solid axle with upper and lower ball joints in the steering knuckle. Many lower ball joints on earlier TJs are riveted; upper ball joints are press-in. Replacement method depends on whether ball joint is riveted or pressed.

Step-by-step — general procedure (upper + lower)
1) Loosen lug nuts, lift vehicle and put on jack stands. Support axle with floor jack placed under differential or axle tube.
2) Remove wheel.
3) Remove brake caliper and hang it with wire (do not let it hang by the brake hose). Remove rotor. Remove ABS sensor/lead from hub if it blocks disassembly.
4) Disconnect tie-rod end from knuckle (remove cotter pin and castle nut, separate with puller or separator).
5) Disconnect sway bar end link (if it blocks knuckle movement).
6) Remove track bar bolt at axle if necessary for extra clearance (mark orientation for reassembly).
7) Remove hub assembly or dust cap / cotter nut if necessary to access top nut (depends on whether you’re removing the whole knuckle). On TJ often you can leave hub and axle shaft in place; support axle with jack so you can drop control arms as needed.
8) Support lower control arm / axle; remove lower ball joint castle nut and cotter pin. Back nut a few turns but don’t remove until supported to avoid sudden release.
9) Separate lower ball joint from knuckle using a 2‑jaw separator or pickle fork (separator is preferred to avoid tearing boot). Use hammer to hit separator and break taper. If trying to reuse boot or knuckle, avoid hitting boot or using pickle fork.
10) Remove upper ball joint castle nut and separate from knuckle similarly.
11) At this point the knuckle may drop off the axle shaft (or you can remove knuckle and hub assembly). Support and remove knuckle from steering arm.

Removing pressed-in ball joints with C-frame ball joint press
12) Clean around ball joint removing dirt and rust to get good seating for adapters. Place the knuckle so you can access the joint—use a workbench or vise if removed from vehicle (wrap jaw faces to protect knuckle).
13) Select press adapter cups: one large receiver cup that will capture the old ball joint body as it is pressed out; a forcing cup that will press on the joint’s press sleeve or stud. Assemble C-frame so the forcing screw pushes the ball joint out into the receiving cup.
14) Lubricate threads of forcing screw. Position the press so the screw head is pushing on the ball joint stud or on a proper adapter (do NOT push on tapered stud tip). Tighten forcing screw slowly using a breaker bar or ratchet. The ball joint will slide out downward into the receiver cup. Keep hands clear of the path.
15) Clean the bore of the knuckle thoroughly after removal—remove old rust, burrs and paint as necessary so the new joint seats squarely.

Removing riveted ball joints (lower riveted type)
- If the lower ball joint is riveted:
16) Cut or grind away the rivet head flush with knuckle but avoid overheating/warping. Center-punch and drill out rivet shank with correct bit size and remove. Alternatively, grind heads then use a drift to punch out. Be careful not to enlarge bore or damage knuckle seating surface.
17) After rivets removed you can press out or drive out the old joint. Clean bore, then prepare for new fasteners or replacement joint with supplied sleeve/bolts.

Installing new ball joint
18) If the new joint is bolt-in (many rivet-style aftermarket replacements use bolts or supplied sleeves), align joint with knuckle and fasten per manufacturer: either rivet, press-in, or bolt with lock nuts. If using bolts and nuts, use thread locker or torque to spec. Replace with the supplied sleeves if required.
19) If press-in: use the ball joint press in reverse. Place the new joint in the bore and use the correct receiving cup under the joint and forcing cup on top of the ball joint body. Tighten forcing screw until the ball joint bottoms in and the flange seats squarely. Don’t force beyond seating point; over-pressing can deform the knuckle.
20) Ensure the grease zerk (if present) is accessible and pump some grease into serviceable joints.

Reassembly
21) Reinstall the knuckle onto the axle and upper/lower control arms. Install new castle nuts and torque to factory spec, fit new cotter pins. If the castle nut lines up with cotter pin hole, do not overtighten just to line it up — back off to nearest slot then fit pin.
22) Re-install tie-rod end nut and cotter pin, sway bar link, hub components, rotor, caliper.
23) Remove jack supporting axle and verify ride height is correct, then torque all fasteners to spec with wheels on ground where required.
24) Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec.

Tool usage details — the ball-joint press
- The press is a C-frame with a large threaded forcing screw and multiple adapter cups.
- Choose an adapter cup that receives the ball joint body. The cup must fully support the joint as it exits so the knuckle and edges aren’t deformed.
- Use a forcing adapter that pushes only on the designated area of the ball joint (not on the tapered stud tip).
- Assemble press so the screw is pushing the joint into the receiver cup. Turn screw slowly with a breaker bar. The press delivers controlled linear force; do NOT hit it with a hammer.
- If the knuckle is still on vehicle, attach press so the receiving cup clears ground/parts and the screw has clearance.
- For rivets, drill them out first. Do not use the forcing screw to rip rivets out—drill then press.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the axle: can overstress CV shafts/driveshafts. Always support axle with jack when separating joints.
- Damaging the knuckle bore: using the wrong press adapters or forcing an off-center press can mushroom the bore; always pick correct cups and center press.
- Using a pickle fork where you’ll install a new joint with a boot: pickle forks cut the boot/seal; use a separator instead.
- Reusing old castle nuts/cotter pins: replace these; cotter pins are single-use.
- Not replacing rivet hardware properly: if the original used rivets and you drill them out, use the correct replacement hardware or OEM rivets. Many aftermarket kits include conversion sleeves/bolts—follow their instructions.
- Not greasing serviceable joints: new joints with zerks need initial grease.
- Ignoring alignment: replacing ball joints changes front geometry. Always get a professional wheel alignment after work.
- Over-torquing studs or under-torquing: follow factory torque specs — loose equals failure, over-torque can strip or damage.
- Damaging ABS wiring/sensors: unclip and move out of the way before pressing.

Parts required checklist (minimum)
- New ball joint(s) (upper and/or lower) — correct part for TJ & Dana axle year
- New castle nuts + cotter pins (or nuts supplied with aftermarket joints)
- Rivets/bolts/sleeves if converting rivets to bolts (often included with kits)
- Grease (for serviceable ball joints)
- Optional: new hub bearings/seals if removal shows wear

Final checks
- Pump grease into zerk fittings until fresh grease appears at boot (if applicable).
- Tighten to factory torque specs. If unsure, get the specs from a Haynes/manual or online factory service manual for your VIN/axle.
- Test drive for noise/steer pull; get alignment immediately (toe and caster).

Estimated time
- 2–4 hours per side for a competent tech with a press; longer if rivets/drilling and rusted hardware.

That’s the complete procedure — follow the vehicle service manual torque specs and safety instructions.
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