Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

Summary: most Kia Carnival/Sedona transmission leaks are at the pan gasket, filter seal, cooler lines/O‑rings, or the drain plug. Fixing a pan‑gasket leak and replacing the filter is the most common and economical repair. Follow the steps below exactly, use the correct fluid and parts, and torque to the factory specs for your model year.

Tools and supplies
- Floor jack, 2 axle stands or ramps, wheel chocks
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves
- Mechanic’s creeper or mat
- Large drain pan (6–12 qt / 6–12 L)
- Socket set (8–19 mm typical), ratchet, extensions
- Torque wrench (0–150 Nm), breaker bar
- Screwdrivers, pliers, pick set
- Flare‑nut wrench(s) for cooler line fittings (if you remove lines)
- Gasket scraper or plastic scraper and brass/bristle brush
- RTV silicone (only if service manual allows) or replacement pan gasket (recommended OE pan gasket/pan kit)
- Transmission filter (OE or OEM equivalent) — wet kit recommended (filter + pan gasket + pan bolts if supplied)
- New crush washer for drain plug (if present) and/or new pan bolts (if specified)
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner, lint‑free rags
- UV leak dye and UV lamp (optional but very useful)
- Funnel and clean graduated container for measuring fluid
- Correct ATF for the vehicle (Kia recommended ATF — check service manual; many later models use Dexron VI or Kia SP‑IV). Bring 4–10 L depending on job.
- Service manual or online repair data for torque values and fluid‑check procedure

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and engage parking brake.
- Support vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Allow transmission to cool to warm (not scalding). Transmission fluid can burn.
- Disconnect negative battery if you’ll be near electrical connectors or sensors.
- Dispose of used ATF per local regulations.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake cleaner and ATF irritate skin.

Diagnosis (find the leak before disassembly)
1. Clean area: spray transmission pan, cooler lines and surrounding areas with brake cleaner and wipe. Cleaning will help locate leak.
2. Run engine briefly to pressurize system and visually inspect. Use a flashlight.
3. If leak source is unclear, add a small amount of UV dye to the ATF (follow dye directions—typically 1 oz per system). Run vehicle until fluid circulates, then inspect with UV lamp—look for dye trails to the origin.
4. Pay attention to:
- Pan seam (gasket)
- Drain plug and crush washer
- Filter housing/seal
- Cooler lines and O‑rings at hard line connections
- Front seal (torque converter area) and output shaft seals (these are major jobs if leaking)
5. If the leak is from a cooler line connection, you may only need to replace O‑rings or tighten the flare nut using a flare‑nut wrench.

Pan gasket + filter replacement — step‑by‑step
This is the most common repair, and the steps assume the leak is at the pan gasket or filter.

Preparation
1. Warm vehicle to operating temperature by idling or a short drive (5–10 minutes). Warm fluid drains easier.
2. Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake. Lift front as needed and support with jack stands under specified jacking points.
3. Remove undercover/skid plate if it blocks access to the transmission pan.

Drain and remove pan
4. Position drain pan under transmission pan.
5. Loosen pan bolts in a uniform pattern, leaving 2 bolts at one short edge partially threaded to act as a hinge. This prevents a sudden dump of fluid.
6. Slowly open pan by lowering the free side and let fluid drain into pan. Remove the last bolts and carefully lower the pan. Expect ~3–6 L to drain (partial).
7. Observe fluid color and smell (burned/transmission damage indicators). Inspect magnets in pan for metal flakes — note quantity and condition.

Remove filter
8. Locate and remove filter retaining bolts/clips. Some filters slide off; some are bolted. Pull the filter straight out, being careful of residual fluid.
9. Inspect filter for metal debris. Large chunks indicate internal failure.

Clean mating surfaces
10. Clean pan with parts cleaner. Remove old gasket material from pan and transmission case using gasket scraper and solvent. Avoid gouging aluminum/machined surfaces. Use lint‑free rags.
11. Inspect pan for warpage, cracks, or damage. Replace pan if damaged. Check pan magnets—clean and note any excessive metal.

Install new filter and gasket
12. Install new transmission filter per service manual orientation. Lubricate filter O‑ring/seal with clean ATF if applicable.
13. Fit new pan gasket (or apply RTV if specifically allowed by manual — most Kias use a gasket). Seat gasket properly on pan or case mating surface.
14. Reinstall pan. Start bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Tighten bolts in a crisscross/star pattern to the specified torque. Typical pan bolt torque for many Kias is low (around 8–12 Nm); verify the exact value and sequence in the manual.
15. Replace drain plug crush washer if applicable and torque plug to spec (often ~30–40 Nm but verify).

Refill and check
16. Lower vehicle off stands enough to access dipstick and to level if necessary.
17. Refill ATF through dipstick tube or fill port using funnel. For a pan/filter job you’ll need about 3–6 liters initially—do not overfill.
18. Start engine, let idle, cycle selector through PRND slowly pausing in each gear, then back to Park. This circulates fluid and removes air.
19. With engine idling and transmission at operating temperature (follow the model‑specific procedure — often check at normal idle with the fluid warmed to ~40–60 °C / 104–140 °F), check level on dipstick and add fluid to the proper mark. Overfilling causes foaming and erratic shifting.
20. Inspect pan/lines for leaks while engine is running. Re‑torque bolts if required after warm.
21. Road test, then re‑inspect for leaks and re‑check fluid level.

Cooler line or union O‑ring replacement
- If dye or inspection points to cooler line fittings: catch fluid, remove line using flare‑nut wrench to avoid rounding off fittings, replace O‑rings and copper sealing washers if used, lubricate new O‑rings with ATF, reinstall and torque to spec. Refill and cycle as above.

When a seal or pump or torque converter is the leak
- If leak originates from the front pump seal (output at bellhousing/torque converter) or from output shaft seal, this is a major job: transmission removal or partial removal is required. Don’t attempt a front seal replacement without correct tools and service manual. Consider replacement at a qualified shop if you don’t have transmission experience and hoist capability.

How each tool is used (short)
- Torque wrench: set to specified Nm, tighten bolts in sequence and never exceed spec. Use appropriate length extension to avoid excessive leverage.
- Flare‑nut wrench: grips multiple faces of the fitting to prevent rounding; use for cooler line nuts.
- Gasket scraper/plastic scraper: remove gasket material; avoid steel scrapers on soft aluminum surfaces—use brass or plastic when possible.
- UV lamp: after adding dye, run the vehicle and scan with lamp in low light; dye fluoresces and shows leak trails. Wear UV glasses if provided.
- Drain pan: position so fluid drains away from components and so you can measure fluid volume.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not finding true leak source: Always clean and use dye/UV to trace to origin; pan leakage can produce fluid trails that appear elsewhere.
- Over‑torquing pan bolts: strips threads or warps pan; always torque to spec and use star pattern.
- Reusing old gasket or filter: leads to continued leak or contamination—replace both.
- Using wrong fluid: causes poor shifting and damage. Use Kia‑approved ATF for year/model (check manual).
- Under/overfilling: both cause shifting problems. Follow the temperature‑specific filling procedure.
- Not replacing cooler line O‑rings: cooler lines are common leak points and often require new O‑rings that harden with age.
- Rushing removal: allow controlled drain by leaving bolts as hinge, protect surrounding components, and catch all drained fluid.
- Ignoring metal in pan magnet: moderate fine particles are normal; large chunks or excessive metal means serious internal wear—don’t just replace gasket; inspect further.
- Cross‑threading bolts: start bolts by hand first.
- Using general RTV where factory specifies gasket: may cause leaks. Use proper kit.

Parts typically required
- Transmission filter (OEM or equivalent)
- Pan gasket (or pan with integrated gasket)
- Drain plug crush washer (if applicable)
- Transmission fluid (correct spec and sufficient quantity)
- Cooler line O‑rings or washers (if lines are removed)
- Pan bolts if threads or bolts are damaged

Final checks
- Recheck fluid level after a short drive and again after a couple of days.
- Monitor leak location and quantity. Small seepage that continues after proper gasket installation usually indicates incorrect installation, warped pan, or wrong gasket sealant use.
- If the leak persists from the bellhousing area or behind the torque converter, plan for a transmission removal/front pump seal replacement or consult a transmission specialist.

Torque/quantity notes
- Torque values and fill/check temperatures vary by model year. Typical pan bolt torque is low (≈8–12 Nm). Drain plug torque often ~30–40 Nm. Verify exact values in the Kia service manual for the model year before final torquing.
- Fluid capacity for a complete drain/refill or rebuild varies (typically 7–10 L for full change on many Kia autos). For pan/filter jobs expect to add the volume lost (~3–6 L). Bring more fluid than you think you’ll need.

Done. Follow the steps, verify specs for the exact model year, and replace components only as required.
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