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Massey Ferguson 200 series tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety and prep
- Park tractor on level ground, lower implements to the ground, engage parking brake, shut off engine, remove key.
- Chock rear wheels so tractor cannot roll.
- Wait until engine and cooling system are cool before working on the belt.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental starting.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy footwear.

- Tools you will need (each tool followed by description and how to use it)
- Metric socket set with ratchet
- Description: sockets (usually 8–19 mm for older tractors) and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet.
- How to use: select the socket that fits the bolt head, push it onto the ratchet, place on bolt, pull handle to loosen or tighten. Use breaker bar for very tight bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: open-end and box-end wrenches in common sizes.
- How to use: use box end for more grip when loosening/tightening bolts in tight spaces; open end for speed. Hold bolt head while loosening nut on the other side.
- Breaker bar or long-handled ratchet
- Description: long, non-flexing bar to apply extra torque.
- How to use: attach correct socket and apply steady force to break tight fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: wrench that measures and applies a specific torque.
- How to use: set required torque value (check manual or parts instructions), tighten fastener until wrench clicks to avoid over- or under-tightening critical bolts.
- Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: standard hand screwdrivers for clamps and covers.
- How to use: use appropriate tip for screw head, steady pressure, turn clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Description: gripping tools for clamps, cotter pins, and small parts.
- How to use: squeeze handles to grip; use needle-nose for tight spots or removing spring clips.
- Pry bar or large screwdriver (as prying tool)
- Description: leverage tool to move alternator or tensioner slightly to relieve belt tension.
- How to use: place gently against mounting bracket and apply controlled leverage — avoid sudden force.
- Belt tension gauge (optional but recommended)
- Description: tool that measures belt deflection or tension.
- How to use: follow gauge instructions; measure deflection at belt midpoint under specified force to set correct tension.
- Tape measure and marker
- Description: measure belt length/position and mark routing.
- How to use: measure belt length and note routing path; mark or photograph routing before removal.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: illuminates dark areas around pulleys and brackets.
- How to use: position to clearly see belt path and fasteners.
- Jack and jack stands (if needed for access)
- Description: hydraulic jack to raise front or side and stands to support tractor.
- How to use: use jack to lift only at manufacturer-approved lift points, place jack stands, then lower onto stands. Never work under tractor supported only by a jack.
- Pulley puller or bearing puller (possible extra tool)
- Description: tool to remove stuck pulleys or idlers without damage.
- Why required: if a pulley is corroded on the shaft and won’t slide off, a puller prevents damage. Only needed if pulley removal is necessary.
- How to use: follow puller instructions, center on pulley hub, tighten forcing screw until pulley clears shaft.
- Replacement hardware (bolts/nuts/washers) and thread locker (Loctite) — optional
- Description: new fasteners and medium-strength thread locker.
- Why required: replace any stripped or corroded bolts; thread locker prevents loosening on vibration.
- How to use: install new bolts, apply drop of thread locker to threads before tightening to spec.

- What replacement part(s) might be needed and why
- New drive belt (V-belt or specified belt for your model)
- Why needed: cracked, glazed, frayed, stretched, or missing ribs reduce performance and can fail.
- How to choose: take old belt to dealer/parts store or measure outside length and cross-section; get OEM part number or equivalent high-quality replacement.
- Idler pulley(s) or tensioner assembly
- Why needed: pulleys with rough bearings, play, or damaged grooves will wear new belt quickly and can fail.
- What to look for: wobble, noise when spun by hand, or damaged grooves; replace if any defect is found.
- Alternator/generator or water pump pulley (only if damaged)
- Why needed: bent or grooved pulleys cause belt mis-tracking and premature failure.
- Mounting bolts, nuts, washers, and key(s)
- Why needed: corroded or damaged fasteners often fail; small key in pulley may shear — replace if missing/damaged.
- Belt tension gauge (if you want precise tension)
- Why needed: accurate tension improves belt life and drives accessories correctly.

- Quick inspection before starting
- Photograph or sketch the belt routing from several angles.
- Inspect belt for cracks, glazing, shiny spots, missing chunks, or frayed edges.
- Spin accessible pulleys by hand; listen and feel for roughness or play.
- Check mounting brackets and hardware for cracked welds or loose bolts.

- Removal procedure (for a typical V-belt driving front accessories)
- Remove any belt guards, shrouds, or splash shields using the screwdrivers and sockets; keep fasteners in a labeled tray.
- Note belt routing again (photo) and mark direction if needed.
- Loosen alternator or accessory mounting bolts (do not remove) so the unit can pivot to release tension. Use socket/ratchet and combination wrench to hold bolt head if needed.
- If there is a separate idler or tensioner bolt, loosen it to release slack. Use pry bar carefully to move the accessory away from the belt path to create slack.
- Slide belt off a pulley (usually the easiest small pulley first) and remove it from the tractor.
- If a pulley must be removed, use the appropriate socket/wrench or a pulley puller if it’s stuck.

- Installation procedure
- Compare old belt to new belt for correct length and cross-section.
- Route the new belt following the photographed path, leaving the easiest pulley for last so you can slip the belt over it.
- Position belt on all pulleys and use the alternator or tensioner to apply tension by pivoting it into place.
- Tighten mounting/tensioner bolts finger-tight, then set belt tension:
- If using a belt tension gauge, adjust until gauge reads manufacturer spec.
- If no gauge: a commonly used rule of thumb is about 1/2 inch (12 mm) deflection at mid-span with moderate thumb pressure; the belt should be firm but not rock-hard.
- Tighten mounting bolts to snug, then to torque wrench spec if you can access the manual value; otherwise tighten securely but do not overtighten.
- Recheck belt seating in pulley grooves and alignment — pulleys should be in the same plane so belt tracks straight.
- Reinstall any guards or shrouds removed earlier.

- Post-install checks
- Reconnect battery negative cable.
- Start engine briefly at idle and visually check belt tracking and noise; shut off and recheck tension after a short run (belts can seat and stretch slightly).
- Re-torque tensioner/mounting bolts if required.
- Test under normal operating condition and re-check after a few hours of operation.

- Signs you should replace additional parts
- Excessive pulley wobble or bearing noise when spun by hand: replace idler/tensioner pulley.
- Grooved, scored, or bent pulley face: replace pulley.
- Mounting bolts that round off or threads that strip: replace hardware.
- Multiple belts on the machine with similar age and wear: consider replacing all at once to avoid repeat work.

- Common mistakes to avoid
- Working without wheel chocks or leaving key in ignition.
- Over-tensioning the belt — this damages bearings.
- Reusing a visibly damaged belt.
- Not photographing or marking belt routing.
- Not replacing worn pulleys or tensioners when installing a new belt.

- Final notes
- If a pulley or bearing removal is required and it won’t come off with hand force, use a pulley puller rather than hammering — hammering can damage the shaft or pulley.
- If you do not have a service manual for your exact Massey Ferguson 200 series model, get a copy or consult the dealer for correct belt part numbers and torque specifications for critical fasteners.
- Keep old belt as reference when purchasing a new one; many parts stores can cross-reference by dimensions or OEM number.

No Yapping.
rteeqp73

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