- Safety first (read and follow these)
- Work on a flat, hard surface; engage parking brake and chock opposite wheels.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use rated jack stands under the manufacturer’s jack point or solid chassis point.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe shoes; compressed coil springs can kill — treat spring compression steps with extreme caution.
- If you are unsure at any step, stop and get professional help.

- Job overview (what you are doing and why)
- Replace front MacPherson strut assemblies on a Nissan Skyline R32 (typical front suspension: coil spring over shock, top mount in engine bay, lower mount to steering knuckle).
- You can swap the entire assembled strut (recommended for beginners) or disassemble the strut to replace the shock, mount, spring, bump stop, or bearing.
- After replacement you must get a wheel alignment.

- Why you might replace parts and what to replace
- Replace complete strut assemblies (recommended for safety and convenience): avoids handling compressed springs and ensures matching damping and new top mounts/bearings.
- Replace individual parts if you prefer:
- Shock absorber/strut cartridge — if ride is bouncy, leaking oil, or poor damping.
- Coil spring — if sagging, cracked, or to change ride height/stiffness.
- Strut top mount/bearing — if clunking, steering roughness, or noisy at full lock.
- Dust boot and bump stop — protect and restore full travel control.
- Sway bar end links, lower control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends — if worn; worn components reduce handling and may prevent proper installation/alignment.
- Always install new fasteners or high‑strength bolts if the originals are visibly stretched, damaged, or specified as single-use by the manual.

- Parts to buy (beginner-friendly list)
- Front complete strut assemblies (OEM or reputable aftermarket brands: e.g., KYB, Bilstein, Monroe; get correct R32 front assemblies).
- Or: strut cartridges, coil springs, top mounts/bearings, dust boots, bump stops, and new top-nuts/strut-to-knuckle bolts if required.
- Four new wheel hub nuts/bolts only if damaged; new cotter pins if applicable.
- New sway bar end links if worn.
- Alignment after installation (take to shop).

- Essential tools (every tool described and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Purpose: lift the car to remove wheels and access suspension.
- How to use: position under manufacturer jack point, pump to lift, lower slowly. Never leave car supported only by jack.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight)
- Purpose: hold the car securely while you work.
- How to use: place on solid pinch-weld or frame points, lower car onto stands, give a push on car to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks
- Purpose: prevent vehicle roll.
- How to use: place behind wheels remaining on ground.
- Metric socket set and ratchet (common sizes for R32: 10mm–19mm, but verify)
- Purpose: remove wheels, bolts, nuts.
- How to use: pick correct socket size, pull ratchet handle smoothly; use extensions as needed.
- Breaker bar
- Purpose: extra leverage for stuck bolts (e.g., lower strut bolts, hub nuts).
- How to use: attach correct socket, apply steady force; avoid jerking.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range, e.g., 20–200 Nm)
- Purpose: tighten bolts to manufacturer torque to ensure safety and avoid overtightening.
- How to use: set required Nm, tighten slowly until click; re-check after a short drive.
- Impact wrench or breaker (optional)
- Purpose: speeds removal of lug nuts and corroded bolts.
- How to use: use to loosen, not to final torque; always finish with torque wrench to correct spec.
- Spring compressor (two-arm, rated for coil springs) — only if disassembling strut (DANGEROUS)
- Purpose: safely compress coil spring so you can remove the strut top nut and disassemble strut.
- How to use: attach on opposite sides of spring, tighten evenly in small increments, keep compressing until spring tension is fully off the top seat, never let any part slip; if unfamiliar, do not use — buy assembled struts instead.
- Strut nut socket or appropriate deep socket and an Allen/hex key holder
- Purpose: hold strut shaft or access top nut that secures the piston rod.
- How to use: secure strut shaft against rotation (some strut shafts have hex flats or a hex hole for an Allen key); remove top nut while holding shaft if needed.
- Ball joint/tie rod puller or pickle fork (prefer the puller)
- Purpose: separate ball joints or tie rod ends from steering knuckle.
- How to use: position puller on joint, tighten center bolt until separation occurs; pickle fork can damage rubber boots — use puller for cleaner job.
- Pry bar and large flat screwdriver
- Purpose: help separate components and lever the knuckle.
- How to use: use leverage gently; don’t pry on seals or fragile parts.
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
- Purpose: persuade stuck components without damaging them.
- How to use: use controlled strikes.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), wire brush
- Purpose: free rusted bolts.
- How to use: spray, let soak 10–30 minutes, brush loose rust before attempting removal.
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker (medium strength)
- Purpose: anti-seize on threads for future removal (use sparingly); thread locker for bolts specified to stay tight.
- How to use: light coat where appropriate; do not use anti-seize where the manual requires clean threads for torque-critical bolts (check manual).
- Shop manual or factory service manual (highly recommended)
- Purpose: exact torque specs, bolt sizes, diagrams, sequences.
- How to use: follow manual torque specs and removal/installation order.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Full strut spring compressor — required only if reusing your springs or replacing just the cartridge; dangerous for beginners, so avoid by buying complete strut assemblies.
- Ball joint press — helpful if ball joints are rusted or need replacement.
- Hub holding tool or 4th hand tool — to retain assembly while loosening hub nut.
- Alignment gauge or camber/caster tool — alignment requires shop equipment; plan to take the car to an alignment shop.

- Step-by-step procedure (safe, clear sequence — use assembled strut if you are a beginner)
- Prepare vehicle: park level, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts while car on ground.
- Lift and secure: jack vehicle, place jack stands under correct jacking points, lower onto stands, remove wheels.
- Access top mounts: open hood and locate the three top-mount nuts for each strut in the engine bay; do not remove them yet — just identify and remove any debris and spray penetrating oil if needed.
- Support knuckle assembly: place a second jack or support under the lower control arm/knuckle so it won’t drop when strut bolts are removed.
- Disconnect ancillary parts: remove sway bar end link from strut, unbolt brake hose/ABS sensor brackets from strut body, remove any intake/hoses in the way.
- Separate tie rod/end if necessary: disconnect tie rod end from knuckle using a puller so you can swing the knuckle away if needed (some R32 setups allow lower strut bolts to be removed without ball joint separation; support carefully).
- Remove lower strut bolts: spray penetrating oil, use breaker bar to loosen lower mounting bolts (one or two bolts through knuckle). Support knuckle so it doesn’t fall.
- Remove top mount nuts: while supporting the strut from below, remove the three top nuts in the engine bay and carefully pull strut assembly down and out of the car.
- If using assembled replacement: fit new assembled strut into tower, loosely fit top nuts, align lower strut to knuckle and insert lower bolts.
- Tighten and torque in stages: with the suspension unloaded (car on jack stands and wheel off) loosely torque top nuts and lower bolts per manual; final torque should be done once car is on the ground at normal ride height unless the manual says otherwise.
- Reattach brackets and sway bar link: reinstall brake hose bracket, ABS sensor bracket, sway bar link; torque to spec.
- Refit wheel and lower car: reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts by hand, lower car onto ground, torque lug nuts to factory spec.
- Final torque and check: torque all strut bolts and top nuts to factory specs with car at ride height if manual specifies; check for clearance and that nothing binds.
- Test drive slowly: listen for clunks; then get a professional alignment.

- If you choose to disassemble the old strut (not recommended for beginners)
- Use the spring compressor to compress the spring evenly until the top nut can be safely removed.
- Remove top nut and disassemble in a clean area; replace worn top mount, bearing, bump stop, dust boot, and shock as needed.
- Reassemble with correct orientation and torque for the strut top nut, following manual and spring compressor safety steps precisely.

- Typical things that go wrong and how to avoid them
- Relying on jack only — always use stands.
- Improper spring compression — use proper compressor and technique, or buy a complete assembly.
- Reusing worn top mounts or bolts and causing noise or unsafe fastening — replace wear parts and critical fasteners.
- Not getting alignment — causes uneven tire wear and poor handling.

- Aftercare and checks
- Get a professional 4-wheel alignment immediately after replacing struts.
- Recheck all fasteners after 100–200 km (60–120 miles) and retorque as needed.
- Inspect for fluid leaks, unusual noises, or handling changes; address promptly.

- Quick recommendations for a beginner (reducing risk)
- Buy complete strut assemblies front-left and front-right — eliminates need for spring compressor.
- Get a factory service manual for R32 and follow torque specs precisely.
- If you don’t have a safe workspace, tools, or confidence, have a competent mechanic do the job.
- Plan to take the car to an alignment shop immediately after installation.

- Final note (critical)
- Exact bolt sizes and torque figures vary by model and year; use the R32 factory service manual for exact specifications. Replacing struts involves heavy components and stored energy in springs — do not attempt spring compression work unless trained and equipped.


rteeqp73

R32 Nissan Skyline - How to Read ECU Error Codes Hey guys, I was having an issue with my car so I decided to make a video on how to check the ECU for error codes. Check it out.

WHY THE NISSAN SKYLINE R32 GTR IS BETTER THAN THE R34! Lets help support the wildlife and people in need during these horrible Australia fires: https://fundraise.redcross.org.au/drr ...

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