Tools & consumables
- Personal PPE: safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, respirator for solvents/dust.
- Basic hand tools: socket/ratchet set, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Engine support equipment: jack/stands, engine hoist if required, drain pans.
- Valve spring compressor (suitable for the head, manual or C-clamp style).
- Valve seat cutting set (concentric pilot + cutters for required angles — usually 45° as primary; 30°/45°/60° triple-angle cutters if you need a multi-angle job).
- Bench-mounted or hand-held seat cutter adapter (pilot fits valve guide).
- Cutting oil or valve seat cutting paste.
- Air blow gun and solvent for cleaning.
- Valve lapping tool (cup with handle) and grinding paste for final seating.
- Feeler gauges, small straight-edge, 0.001" feeler or plastigage (for clearance checks).
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (for valve stem diameter).
- Telescoping gauge or depth mic for seat depth if needed.
- Valve guide reamer or press (if guides are worn).
- Replacement parts: valves (intake/exhaust as needed), valve stem seals, valve springs (if weak or broken), valve seat inserts (if seat is badly worn/recut), head gasket, head bolts/stud replacements if specified by manual.
- Cleaning brushes, gasket scraper, non-chlorinated solvent, lint-free rags.
- Fire extinguisher, good ventilation.

Safety precautions (mandatory)
- Work on a cold, stable machine. Disconnect battery, shut off fuel, drain coolant and oil as needed.
- Support the baler/head securely. Use jack stands/engine hoist where appropriate.
- Keep open flames away (solvents, fuel vapors).
- Wear eye protection — metal chips and stone debris are hazardous.
- Contain and properly dispose of metal and abrasive debris (environmental regs).
- If using power drill on cutter, maintain steady, controlled speed and don't overheat the head.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation & access
- Park baler on level ground, chock wheels, shut fuel off and disconnect battery.
- Drain coolant and oil as needed so you can remove the cylinder head cleanly.
- Remove intake/exhaust manifolds, rocker cover, rocker arms, pushrods (if OHV), and loosen head bolts in the reverse pattern of torque sequence to avoid warping.
- Remove cylinder head and place on a clean, stable bench with seats upward. Keep components organized and labeled.

2) Initial inspection
- Clean combustion chambers and seat area with solvent and brush.
- Inspect valves for pitting, grooves, bent stems, or burning. Measure valve stem diameter; compare to OEM limits.
- Inspect valve seats for pitting, burning, or multiple concentric rings. Check seat width — typical acceptable valve seat width is about 1.0–1.5 mm for intake, slightly wider for exhaust; consult manual if available.
- Check valve guide wear (excessive clearance between guide and valve stem). If guides are worn beyond spec, replace or ream prior to seat work.
- If seat is broken or severely damaged, you’ll need to install a seat insert or have the head machined professionally.

3) Decide tools/angles
- On many older MF engines the primary sealing angle is 45°. If the head uses 3-angle seats, use a triple-angle cutter set (30/45/60) to produce proper contact patterns. If unsure, follow what’s already present (match existing angles).
- Choose the correct pilot for the valve guide to ensure concentric cutting. The pilot should fit snugly into the valve guide bore to center the cutter.

4) Set up the cutting tool
- Mount the pilot into the cutter assembly. The cutter’s pilot is what centers the cutter on the valve guide; make sure it’s clean and not damaged.
- Place the head on a stable bench. Insert pilot into valve guide and hand-turn the cutter into the seat to ensure it engages without obstruction.
- If using a hand-held or bench tool, set cutter straight (use a square to eyeball alignment). For best concentricity, use the pilot in the guide — do not attempt to center off the valve face alone.

5) Cutting procedure (general)
- Apply cutting oil liberally to the cutter and seat surface.
- Make light, controlled passes only. The goal is to remove minimal material while getting a fresh, concentric seat. Typical practice: take several light passes rather than one heavy cut.
- Rotate cutter in the direction recommended by the tool maker (usually opposite the pilot rotation so it cuts toward the pilot). If using a drill, run at low speed and steady feed. Heat control is important — allow time between passes to avoid overheating the head or seat.
- After each pass, blow out chips and check the seat contact by inserting the valve (dry) and looking for a solid contact ring about 1.5–2.0 mm wide (single-angle) or the desired width for intake/exhaust. Measure seat width with a caliper if precise width is required.
- For triple-angle finishing: start with coarse 60° or 30° as roughing (as per cutter set sequence), finish with 45° for final sealing face so you get a well-distributed contact pattern.

6) Common seat tuning details
- Intake seats are usually narrower than exhaust — don’t over-widen intake seats (loss of valve cooling).
- Exhaust seats can be made slightly wider to withstand heat, but removing too much material can change valve timing/clearance.
- Keep the seat concentric to valve guide; misalignment causes poor seating and leakage.

7) When to use seat inserts or guides
- If seat material is too thin, cracked, or warped, install a hardened seat insert. Press-in inserts must be matched to bore and typically require re-machining the head to accept the insert — consider professional machinist help.
- Replace valve guides if stem-to-guide clearance exceeds limits or if pilot will not center correctly. Replace guides before cutting seats.

8) Final finishing — lapping
- After cutter passes produce a clean face, use valve grinding paste and hand-lap the valve to seat for final leak-tight seal.
- Apply moderate paste to valve face, insert valve and rotate with lapping tool while applying light axial pressure. Do short strokes; don’t over-lap (removes minimal material).
- Clean thoroughly with solvent to remove all abrasive paste (paste left behind will score valves or seats on first run).
- Check seating by applying light oil to the seat and seating the valve; look for a continuous matte gray contact ring. Optional: pressurize the cylinder (plug exhaust and apply compressed air to intake port, or vice versa) to test for leakage — acceptable leakage should be near zero.

9) Replace seals & reassembly
- Fit new valve stem seals before reassembly.
- Replace head gasket and any head bolts/studs if required by manual. If head bolts are torque-to-yield, replace them.
- Clean all surfaces, reassemble in reverse order. Use correct torque sequence and torque values from the service manual (if manual not available, use conservative, even pattern and manufacturer spec when you obtain it).
- Reinstall rocker gear/pushrods and set valve lash to spec (clearance) — check cold lash and adjust as per manual.

10) Final checks & break-in
- Rotate engine by hand two full revolutions and recheck valve clearances.
- Start engine, listen for abnormal noises, monitor for leaks. Re-check torque after initial heat cycles if recommended by manual.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Poor centering: using a pilot that doesn’t fit the guide produces eccentric seats. Always use correct pilot size or replace worn guides.
- Removing too much material: multiple light cuts are safer. Excess removal can alter compression and require valve replacement or shimming.
- Overheating head or cutter: use cutting oil and cool between passes.
- Using wrong cutter angle: match existing angles or use triple-angle technique; wrong angle gives narrow contact or poor heat transfer and premature burning.
- Not replacing worn guides/seals: new seat surfaces need proper guides and seals to function; otherwise leakage/valve wobble will occur.
- Leaving abrasive paste in head: thoroughly clean after lapping; residual grit will quickly damage seats.
- Improper reassembly torque: warping the head by wrong sequence/torque causes head gasket failure and poor sealing.

Replacement parts usually required or recommended
- Valve stem seals (always replace).
- Valves (if pitted, burned, bent or undersize beyond spec).
- Valve springs (if weak/cracked or out of spec).
- Valve guides (if worn beyond spec).
- Valve seat inserts (if original seats are cracked, too thin, or excessively worn).
- Head gasket and any consumed fasteners (head bolts/studs) if specified.

How the cutter/tool is used (concise)
- The cutter uses a guide/pilot that fits into the valve guide to center the cutter on the seat.
- The cutter has replaceable blades ground to the specified angle (45°, 30°, 60° etc.). With cutting oil applied, the cutter is rotated while being fed axially to skim the seat surface. The pilot keeps the cutter concentric as the blade removes material.
- Finish with light passes until desired seat width and concentricity are achieved, then lap for final sealing.

Notes specific to Massey Ferguson MF20 baler
- The MF20 baler’s engine and head construction may be shared with older MF/industrial engines; always verify angles and specs from the service manual where possible.
- If unsure about head warpage or seat insert needs, consider having the head pressure-checked and machined at an engine shop — baler heads can be older and brittle.

Done.
rteeqp73

Masses Ferguson MF20 2WD industrial tractor

MF 135 radiator replacement part 2 Second part of the radiator removal ofthe 135.

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