Short version: replacing the transmission filter/strainer on an MF35 is a straightforward maintenance job if you know which filter your tractor has (internal suction strainer vs. aftermarket spin‑on filter kit). Below I explain why the job matters, how the transmission oil/filter system works, describe every component involved, give clear step‑by‑step procedures for the two common configurations, list tools and safety steps, and cover common failure modes and checks. Read the whole thing once before you start. No Yapping.

Why this repair is needed (the theory)
- Purpose: The transmission/filter removes metal particles, grit and debris from gearbox oil so gears, bearings and shafts aren’t abraded. A clean filter prevents pump starvation and keeps shifting smooth.
- Analogy: Think of the filter like a coffee filter for oil: dirty grounds left in the coffee will make it gritty; dirty metal and sludge in gearbox oil will grind on teeth and bearings.
- Consequences of a bad or clogged filter: reduced oil flow, pump cavitation/starvation, overheating, accelerated wear, noisy shifting, clutch slipping, catastrophic gearbox damage if not fixed.

How the gearbox/filter system works (simple)
- The gearbox/sump holds oil. A mechanical pump (or in some designs the oil is circulated by splash and the pump picks up from the sump) draws oil through a suction strainer/filter, sends it under pressure to places that need lubrication and pressure for the clutch/hydraulics, and returns oil to the sump to repeat.
- The filter/strainer sits on the pickup to keep big particles out of the pump. Some modern conversions or retrofit kits use an external spin‑on filter in the circuit instead of (or in addition to) the internal strainer.
- If the pickup is blocked, the pump pulls air and cavitates, oil pressure drops and bearings/gear faces get starved of lubrication.

Which filter does an MF35 have?
- Many original MF35 tractors use an internal suction strainer (mesh or perforated screen) fitted to the oil pickup inside the gearbox/sump. You usually access it by removing the gearbox filler plug or a specific cover.
- Some MF35s have been fitted with aftermarket spin‑on filter kits (external canister) that attach to the gearbox casing or inline on the oil return/pump feed.
- Before starting: visually identify which setup is on your tractor. If you have the service manual, check it for the exact location and part numbers.

Components and descriptions (every component you’ll deal with)
- Gearbox housing / Sump: cast iron body holding gearbox oil (like the “bathtub”).
- Filler plug (breather area on top): opening used to add oil; sometimes the strainer sits below it.
- Drain plug: bolt at the lowest point used to drain oil out of the gearbox.
- Suction strainer / mesh pickup: metal mesh or perforated basket on the inlet of the pickup tube; prevents large particles entering the pump.
- Pickup tube: tube from the strainer to the gearbox pump inlet.
- Pump (gear or rotor type): draws oil from sump through the strainer and supplies pressure; if starved it can fail.
- Filter housing (if present): the external canister assembly for spin‑on filters; consists of mounting boss, base, and sealing surface.
- Spin‑on filter/canister: replaceable cartridge with internal media and gasket (if retrofit installed).
- O‑rings/gaskets: seals that prevent leaks where housings and plugs meet.
- Magnetic drain plug (if fitted): captures ferrous metal filings; important to inspect.
- Breather: lets air in/out of gearbox, prevents vacuum/surge.
- Bolts, washers, crush washers, and threads: hardware securing covers and plugs.
- Oil used: transmission/torque‑converter/hydraulic oil or gear oil — check manual for the correct spec for your MF35 and climate.

Tools and materials
- Drain pan large enough for gearbox oil.
- Socket set and wrenches (sizes vary).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (recommended for cover/plug torque).
- Replacement filter element or replacement suction strainer (genuine or quality aftermarket).
- Replacement gaskets and O‑rings/sealant as required.
- Cleaning solvent, shop rags, small brush.
- New gearbox oil (type and quantity per manual).
- Gloves, eye protection, jack/stands if needed to tilt/raise tractor.
- Replacement drain plug crush washer (if applicable).

Safety first
- Park on firm level ground, engine off, keys removed. Engage parking brake and block wheels.
- Support tractor securely if you need to get under it.
- Hot oil can burn — let the tractor cool.
- Use eye protection and gloves; dispose of used oil properly.

Procedure A — Replacing an internal suction strainer (original MF35-style)
1. Prepare: Park, drain area clear, tools ready. Place drain pan under the gearbox drain plug.
2. Drain gearbox oil: Loosen and remove drain plug and let oil drain until flow nearly stops. Inspect oil: note color, metal flakes. Keep sample if you suspect wear.
3. Remove filler plug: On many MF35s the filler plug is on the side/top of the gearbox. Remove it to allow free draining and access to internal strainer.
4. Locate the strainer: Using a flashlight, look through the filler opening toward the pickup area. Most suction strainers sit low and may be reached by feel or by removing a small access cover or bolt on the top of the gearbox. On some units the strainer screws off from the pickup tube.
5. Remove the strainer/pickup assembly:
- If the strainer is a screw‑in type on the pickup, unscrew it using pliers or the correct tool. Protect the mesh from damage.
- If the strainer is inside and held by a plate or bracket, remove the securing bolts and slide out the pickup/strainer assembly.
- Keep track of any O‑rings/seals and bolts.
6. Inspect and replace:
- If the mesh is only mildly dirty, you can clean it with solvent and compressed air (blow out from inside to outside). If the mesh is damaged, crushed, or heavily clogged, replace it.
- Inspect the pickup tube for dents/holes.
- Inspect magnet (if present) for excessive metal — a light coating is normal; lots of shavings indicate abnormal wear.
7. Clean housing mating surfaces and remove old gasket material.
8. Reinstall: Fit the new or cleaned strainer/pickup. Replace any O‑rings/gaskets. Torque bolts to spec (or snug if you don’t have spec, then check for leaks later). Refit filler plug with its seal.
9. Replace drain plug with crush washer if needed and torque to spec.
10. Refill gearbox with the correct oil to the fill level indicated by the filler port. The level should be up to the bottom of the filler hole (check manual).
11. Run test: Start engine, cycle gears and hydraulic controls slowly while watching for leaks and listening for unusual noises. Recheck oil level and top up if needed.

Procedure B — Replacing an external/spin‑on filter (aftermarket kits)
1. Identify filter location and mounting bosses.
2. Prepare: Protect painted surfaces with rag, place drain pan under filter.
3. Remove old spin‑on filter: Unscrew the canister counter‑clockwise. Expect oil to spill — have rags ready.
4. Inspect mount: Clean the sealing surface and check the O‑ring or seal on the new filter. Remove any old gasket/silicone.
5. Prepare new filter: Lightly oil the new filter’s seal (thin film of gearbox oil).
6. Install new filter: Screw on until gasket contacts the sealing surface, then hand‑tighten plus 3/4 turn (or follow filter maker’s instructions). Do not over‑torque — you can crush the gasket or strip threads.
7. If filter kit has a bypass valve or hose fittings, inspect hoses and clamps and replace any worn lines.
8. Refill gearbox if you drained oil, and follow test steps as above.

How to check your work and test
- After refill, start the tractor and let oil circulate for a few minutes.
- Watch for leaks at filter, filler plug and drain plug.
- Cycle through gears, raise/lower hitch and watch for correct pressure/operation.
- Recheck oil level when warm and top up to proper level.
- After a short run (10–30 minutes), recheck for leaks and re‑inspect magnetic drain plug for excessive metal.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Wrong part installed: A wrong‑sized strainer or wrong thread filter will leak or strip threads. Use correct parts.
- Cross‑threading filter or drain plug: start threads by hand, then use tools. Cross‑threads damage castings.
- O‑ring damage: an old or pinched O‑ring will leak. Replace O‑rings whenever you remove the filter housing.
- Over‑tightening: can crush seals or damage filter housing. Hand‑tighten plus specified turns.
- Pump starvation from air ingress: make sure filler/breather is clear so the pump can draw oil properly. After replacing strainer, ensure pickup/seal is correctly seated.
- Leaving contaminants inside: clean mating surfaces; don’t let dirt fall into the open gearbox.
- Using the wrong oil: wrong viscosity or additive package can cause clutch slippage or gear noise. Use the OEM‑recommended oil.
- Old or missing crush washer on drain plug will leak. Replace crush washer.
- Not disposing of used oil responsibly — collect and take to proper recycling.

Signs you need to replace the filter/strainer sooner
- Metal filings on magnetic drain plug or in drained oil.
- Noisy transmission or grinding when shifting.
- Overheating transmission, reduced oil pressure or hydraulic performance.
- Frequent clutch or gear problems.

Maintenance interval (rule of thumb)
- Follow the service manual for exact interval. A general guideline: check the strainer and change gearbox oil and filter at the intervals recommended in the manual, or every 200–500 hours for heavy use; inspect magnetic plugs and filters more often if you use the tractor in dusty or severe conditions. Replace the strainer immediately if you find metal particles.

Final reminders
- Always consult the MF35 service manual for exact part numbers, locations and torque values for your particular year/model.
- Keep clean rags and a tidy workspace. Contamination is the enemy in gearboxes.
- If you find lots of metal or severe damage, stop and get a thorough gearbox inspection — replacing the filter won’t cure internal damage.

That’s the complete practical how‑to plus the why and failure modes. Do the job methodically, keep things clean, and use the correct parts and oil.
rteeqp73

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