Note: The MF35 does not have a separate, pressurized “automatic transmission” like a car — the thing you test is the hydraulic/three‑point lift pressure (the tractor’s pump/relief system). Below are step‑by‑step instructions for performing a hydraulic/pressure test on the MF35 (what most people mean by “transmission fluid pressure test” on this tractor).

Tools & parts needed
- Hydraulic pressure test kit (industrial gauge rated to at least 3000 psi / 200 bar) with appropriate adapter(s) and pressure hose. Gauge must be rated above the tractor’s relief pressure.
- Correct thread adapter for the MF35 hydraulic test/relief port (check service manual or measure port). If unsure, bring test kit to a parts shop to match thread.
- Clean drain pan and rags.
- Combination wrenches and sockets (to remove access plugs).
- Torque wrench (for reinstalling plugs to correct torque).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Replacement sealing washers / copper crush washers and O‑rings for test port (have a small selection).
- Fresh hydraulic/transmission oil (for topping up or replacement if required).
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots.
- Jack stands or wheel chocks to immobilize tractor.

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground, engine off, keys removed before fitting adapters. Chock wheels.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. High‑pressure hydraulic fluid can penetrate skin — avoid direct exposure.
- Use a gauge and hose rated above expected pressure. Never improvise with weak hoses.
- Before removing any plug, ensure engine off and system depressurized (operate control to relieve residual pressure).
- Do NOT stand in line with any fittings under pressure. Keep bystanders away.
- When disconnecting any pressurized hose, use rags and a drain pan; loosen slowly to bleed pressure.
- If you remove the relief valve or any internal valve spring, be aware springs can eject parts — contain them.

Preparation
1. Warm the tractor to normal operating temperature (5–10 minutes running) so fluid is at normal viscosity.
2. Park on level ground, lower 3‑point hitch to rest on blocks or the ground so the pump is not dead‑headed against a solid stop, set parking brake, stop engine and chock wheels.
3. Locate the hydraulic relief/test port or the relief valve access plug. On MF35 models the test/relief access is commonly on the hydraulic housing / pump body or at the control valve housing (refer to the MF35 service manual or look for a capped plug near the pump/valve assembly). Clean around it thoroughly.

Procedure — connecting the gauge
4. Depressurize the system: with engine off, move the lift control up/down several times to relieve pressure.
5. Remove the relief/test plug (use correct wrench). Keep a drain pan ready. Note orientation of any internal parts you see. Inspect sealing face and threads for damage.
6. Fit the correct adapter into the test port. Use a new crush washer or O‑ring. Tighten to appropriate snugness — follow manual torque if available. Improper sealing or wrong adapter thread will leak or damage threads.
7. Attach the pressure hose from the gauge kit to the adapter. Tighten fittings with appropriate wrenches; ensure hose and gauge are secured and not routed where they can be caught by moving parts or hot surfaces.
8. Position yourself where you won’t be in front of leaks or moving parts. Start engine and run at idle.

Testing steps
9. With the engine at idle, slowly operate the lift control to raise the hitch (create demand on the pump). Watch the gauge and record the idle (static) pressure.
10. Increase engine speed to operating RPM (typical tractor working speed; see manual). Operate lift control through full travel and note peak pressure and behavior (should reach relief pressure when the control is jammed/loaded).
11. If your test kit allows, record pressure with a load applied (attach a known implement or block and attempt to lift) — this checks pressure under real load.
12. If testing relief valve function: very cautiously and only with a correct test adapter in place, increase engine speed until the gauge reaches expected relief set pressure — the pump/relief should open and maintain near that pressure. Do not overrev the engine. If pressure spikes beyond gauge rating, shut down immediately.
13. When done, shut off engine, relieve system pressure by moving control, then disconnect gauge. Clean any spilled fluid, replace plug with new washer and torque to spec.

How the pressure test tool is used
- The gauge connects into the hydraulic circuit at the relief/test port. It reads system pressure as the pump produces flow and the valve maintains pressure.
- Use the pressure hose to keep the gauge away from heat and moving parts. A quick‑disconnect is useful but must be pressure rated.
- Operate the lift control to generate pressure while watching the gauge. The relief valve should hold at its set pressure — the gauge confirms the relief setting and pump capability.
- Compare readings at idle and working RPM and under load against service manual specs.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong adapter/thread: don’t force an adapter — check threads. Cross‑threading will damage cast housings.
- Using an under‑rated gauge/hose: this is dangerous — gauge must exceed expected pressure.
- Not warming the oil: cold oil gives false high pressures and sluggish responses.
- Leaving system pressurized while disconnecting: always relieve pressure first.
- Contaminating the system: use clean adapters and rags; dirt will damage valves.
- Misinterpreting gauge location: measuring at a low‑pressure pilot port or elsewhere gives wrong readings. Use the relief or pump port.
- Damaging soft threads in cast housings by overtorqueing. Use correct torque values from the manual or snug + measured increments.
- Forgetting to replace sealing washers — expect leaks if you reuse old crushed washers.

When replacement parts are required
- If pressure is below spec: pump wear, scored housings, worn relief valve spring or valve seat — you may need a rebuilt pump, relief valve rebuild kit (spring/spool/seat), or seals.
- If relief valve sticks or leaks: replace relief valve parts or the whole relief valve assembly.
- If threads or port sealing surfaces are damaged: heli‑coil or thread repair may be needed (have a machinist repair).
- Always replace crush washers/O‑rings on test plugs and any plumbing you disturb.
- If fluid is metallic or contaminated, drain and flush gearbox/hydraulic reservoir and replace oil and filter.

Expected values (general)
- Typical mid‑range for many MF tractors’ hydraulic relief is around 1500–2000 psi (100–140 bar). MF35 service manual gives the specific set pressure — always confirm with the manual. If gauge never reaches relief or is far off, investigate pump wear or relief spring.

Final steps
- After testing, remove gauge, replace plug with new seal, torque properly, top up fluid if required, check for leaks and test lift operation under normal conditions.
- Dispose of contaminated oil properly.

If you need thread sizes, exact relief set pressure, or torque data for the MF35, consult the MF35 service manual for precise figures before disassembly.
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Video Operator's Manual for Massey Ferguson 35 Tractor This video shows the basics of how to operate an MF35 tractor as well as identification of a lot of the components of the tractor.

MF-35 sivurajoittimet, Massey stabilizerbars. Kyhäsin massikkaan teleskooppi_tyyppiset sivurajoittimet. I made stabilizerbars for massey. Music: Alec Koff Video: Creative ...

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- Safety first
- Always work with the ignition off, key out, and battery negative disconnected before touching electrical parts.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep loose clothing, jewelry, and long hair clear of moving parts.
- If the MF35 is a diesel model, it has no ignition coil — stop here and ignore coil steps (diesels use compression ignition). Most MF35 petrol models have a 12 V coil and a points/distributor system.

- What you are doing (short)
- Check (test) the ignition coil for proper operation and, if it’s bad, remove and replace it.
- Also check basic ignition components (battery voltage, points/condenser or electronic module, distributor cap & rotor, HT lead and spark plugs) because coil problems often look like other ignition faults.

- Tools you need (detailed description + how to use)
- Multimeter (DC volt/ohm)
- Purpose: measure battery voltage and coil primary/secondary resistance.
- How to use: set to DC volts (20 V range) to check battery (should read ~12.4–12.8 V at rest, ~11 V+ while cranking). Set to ohms (Ω) to measure resistance. Put red lead on coil + terminal, black on coil − (primary). For secondary, red on coil high-tension (HT) tower/top and black on ground/chassis.
- Inline spark tester (recommended) or insulated spark gap tool
- Purpose: safely see if the coil can produce a spark under load.
- How to use: connect between the coil (or plug wire) and the spark plug; crank engine; you should see a consistent bright blue spark. This is much safer than holding an exposed plug wire by hand.
- Basic socket set / spanners (metric + imperial mix)
- Purpose: remove coil mounting bolts, battery terminals, distributor clamp, etc.
- How to use: pick the correct socket/wrench that fits the bolt head; turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Typical small bolts on classic tractors often use 8 mm, 10 mm, or 3/8"–7/16".
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Purpose: remove distributor cover screws, disconnect small screws on coil terminals or wire clamps.
- How to use: match screw type and size, keep steady pressure to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (needle-nose and combination)
- Purpose: pull off old wire boots, bend small tabs, hold nuts.
- How to use: grip and pull with steady force; for delicate wiring use needle-nose.
- Wire brush / emery cloth
- Purpose: clean ground points and terminal corrosion.
- How to use: with battery disconnected, brush metal contact surfaces until shiny; wipe away debris.
- Dielectric grease
- Purpose: protect high-voltage connections (HT lead boots) from moisture and corrosion.
- How to use: apply a thin film inside HT boot or on terminal before reassembly.
- Battery terminal puller (optional)
- Purpose: remove stubborn battery clamp without damaging terminals.
- How to use: clamp to terminal and twist/pull per tool instructions.
- Torque wrench (optional, helpful)
- Purpose: to tighten mounting bolts to reasonable tightness without over-torquing.
- How to use: set to low torque value for small bolts (e.g., 5–15 Nm / 4–11 ft·lb) and tighten until it clicks.
- Replacement coil (if needed) — see parts section
- Purpose: the new ignition coil is the part that produces high voltage for spark.
- How to use: match mounting and terminals, wire up exactly as old coil, reconnect battery, test.
- Optional extra tools (why they may be required)
- Timing light
- Why: if you replace coil and need to set ignition timing.
- How: connect per tool instructions to battery and number 1 plug wire, crank and adjust distributor to proper timing mark.
- Distributor pliers / small pullers
- Why: distributor cap and rotor sometimes sit tight; use gently to remove.
- Electronic ignition conversion kit (Pertronix or similar)
- Why: if you want a more reliable electronic ignition instead of points/condenser.
- How: replaces contact points inside the distributor; instructions supplied by kit.

- Quick visual inspection steps (before testing)
- Battery: check battery is charged and terminals clean.
- HT lead: examine high-tension lead from coil to distributor for cracks or carbon shorts.
- Connections: ensure coil + terminal has 12 V when ignition is on (key to ON but engine off).
- Ground: check the coil’s mounting bracket and body have clean metal-to-metal contact to chassis ground.

- How to test the coil (safe step-by-step)
- Prep
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Remove distributor cap if you need access to HT lead; otherwise use inline spark tester on the HT lead.
- Resistance test with multimeter
- Primary resistance: locate coil + and − terminals (usually one is marked +). Set ohms range (low). With coil removed or at least isolated from circuit, place multimeter probes across + and −. Typical acceptable primary resistance for 12 V coils is roughly 0.4–3 Ω (varies by manufacturer). If open/infinite or very high, coil is bad.
- Secondary resistance: place one probe on coil HT tower (top) and one on coil body/chassis (ground). Typical secondary resistance ranges ~4,000–15,000 Ω (4–15 kΩ). If open or massively out of spec, coil is bad. Check exact spec in manual or on replacement part listing if you need precise numbers.
- Voltage test
- Reconnect battery. Turn ignition to ON. With multimeter, check for ~12 V at the coil + terminal. If there’s no voltage, problem is wiring, ignition switch, or fuse, not the coil.
- Spark test (recommended)
- Connect inline spark tester between coil HT output and spark plug lead (or between coil and plug wire as applicable). Reconnect battery. Crank engine while observing the tester. A bright, consistent blue spark indicates the coil is producing high voltage. Weak, orange, intermittent or no spark indicates coil or secondary circuit problem.
- If using a simple exposed-spark method: do not. It’s unsafe for beginners. Use the inline tester.

- How to remove and replace the coil (step-by-step bullets)
- Safety prep: disconnect battery negative.
- Label or note wire positions (take photos) so you can reconnect exactly.
- Remove HT lead from coil top (pull the boot straight off; use pliers gently if stuck).
- Unscrew or unbolt coil primary terminals (watch for small screws); remove any earth/ground strap.
- Unbolt coil mounting bracket bolts and remove the coil assembly.
- Inspect mounting area and clean corrosion with wire brush.
- Compare new coil to old one: mounting points, terminal layout, and voltage rating (12 V).
- Mount new coil, tighten bolts snugly (don’t over-torque).
- Reconnect primary wires exactly as original; put dielectric grease in HT boot; push HT lead onto coil tower.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Test with spark tester and start engine.

- When replacement is required (how to tell and why)
- How to tell coil is bad
- Multimeter primary or secondary resistance is open/infinite or far outside typical range.
- No HT spark under load using sparktester, while battery voltage and wiring are good.
- Intermittent, weak spark, rough running, misfiring that follows coil heat/cooling cycle (coil failing when hot).
- Why replace
- Ignition coil is an electromechanical part that can short internally or break down over time; it cannot be reliably repaired in-field.
- Replacing restores proper high-voltage generation and engine performance.
- Parts commonly replaced at same time
- Condenser (capacitor) — prevents arcing at points and affects coil performance.
- Contact points and rotor/distributor cap — worn points/dirty cap can mimic coil failure.
- HT lead and spark plug wires — cracked insulation causes leaks/weak spark.
- Spark plugs — fouled/worn plugs give poor spark even with good coil.
- Electronic ignition module (optional upgrade) — removes mechanical points for more reliable spark.

- Which replacement coil to buy (what to match)
- Match voltage: 12 V coil for MF35 petrol ignition systems.
- Match mounting style and terminal arrangement so it bolts into the same bracket.
- Match or be close to the original secondary impedance; many classic tractor coils list primary and secondary resistance in the product spec—buy one in the same range (primary around 0.5–3 Ω, secondary ~4–15 kΩ typical).
- Options:
- OEM Massey/Lucas/Bosch replacement coils listed for MF35 (buy from tractor parts dealers or online by searching “Massey Ferguson MF35 ignition coil”).
- Aftermarket universal 12 V ignition coil with matching impedance and mounting (confirm size and terminals).
- Consider replacing condenser and points along with the coil if you have a points distributor—cheap insurance and often necessary for proper operation.

- Post-replacement checks
- Verify ~12 V at coil + with key ON before cranking.
- Use inline spark tester to confirm spark while cranking.
- If you replaced coil and the spark is weak, check condenser, points gap, cap/rotor, HT lead continuity, and timing.
- If timing is off after reassembly, use a timing light to set ignition timing to the MF35 spec.

- Troubleshooting quick tips
- No voltage at coil +: check ignition switch, fuses, wiring, and any ballast resistor (if fitted).
- Good primary resistance but no spark: check condenser and points or electronic triggering device.
- Intermittent failure when hot: coil insulation breakdown; replace coil.
- Corroded terminals: clean with wire brush, use dielectric grease.

- Final notes on parts and sources
- Buy parts from an MF35 specialist, Massey Ferguson parts dealers, or reputable tractor parts suppliers online; bring old coil to match physical fitment.
- If unsure about exact coil specs, get a replacement listed specifically for MF35 petrol engines rather than a generic coil.

- Quick safety reminder
- Never test for spark with the engine running in an unsafe way. Use a proper inline spark tester and keep hands and metal tools away from the rotating engine parts.

No extra commentary.
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