Short, ordered procedure with the underlying theory and how each action fixes the fault.

Preparation and theory (why you’re doing this)
- What the “throttle body/carburettor” does: it meters and mixes incoming air with fuel (through jets/aspirator and throttle plate) so the engine gets a correct air–fuel ratio across idle-to‑full throttle. Smooth airflow, correct spray pattern from the jet, and correct float/needle action are critical.
- Why cleaning fixes common faults: varnish, carbon and debris restrict bore or jet passages, stick the throttle plate and choke, foul needle/seat or float, and create vacuum or fuel leaks. Those cause hard starting, poor idle, hesitation/surging, stalling or flooding. Cleaning restores airflow paths, jet spray pattern and mechanical freedom so metering works as designed.

Tools and materials
- Basic hand tools (spanners, screwdrivers), small brass/nylon brushes/picks
- Carburettor cleaner solvent (non-water), compressed air, clean rags
- Container to catch fuel, replacement gaskets and possibly needle/seat and float valve, small parts tray
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, well‑ventilated area, fire precautions (no sparks)

Ordered steps (do these in sequence) with the theory/explanation for each

1) Safety and initial checks
- Kill engine, cool down, shut fuel shutoff or pinch off fuel line, disconnect battery if desired.
- Theory: prevents fire, fuel spills, and accidental starting while you work.

2) Remove air cleaner and linkages
- Note positions of throttle linkage, choke linkage and return springs; mark if needed. Remove air cleaner assembly.
- Theory: gives access; also shows whether dirt in air cleaner is upstream cause of contamination.

3) Remove carburettor from intake manifold
- Catch any spilling fuel. Unscrew mounting bolts and gently withdraw carburettor; label gaskets.
- Theory: full access lets you inspect internal parts and prevents introducing debris into the manifold.

4) External inspection
- Inspect throttle shaft for endplay or wobble, worn bushings, and throttle plate/cam wear. Check float bowl and exterior for corrosion or severe varnish.
- Theory: throttle shaft wear causes air leaks and erratic idle even after cleaning; worn shafts may need bushing replacement.

5) Disassemble carburettor in an organised way
- Remove float bowl, float and pin, needle/seat, main jet/jet assembly, idle jet/adjuster, throttle plate (if removable), choke parts, and any small jets/strainers.
- Keep parts in order; photograph if unsure.
- Theory: jets and passages control fuel metering. Deposits anywhere change flow rates and spray characteristics.

6) Clean all passages and components
- Spray carb cleaner through all small passages and jets; use thin wire or carb brushes only to remove deposits (don’t enlarge jets). Blow compressed air through passages to ensure they are clear.
- Clean throttle bore and plate until smooth, removing varnish around shaft and bore. Clean float and needle seat carefully.
- Theory: cleaning removes varnish and carbon that changed airflow and fuel flow. Clearing jets restores the correct atomization and fuel quantities; freeing the throttle plate restores correct idle control and prevents sticking.

7) Inspect & measure key parts
- Check float for fuel intrusion or deformation; check needle valve tip and seat for wear; inspect jet orifices for damage; check throttle shaft play — if shafts are loose, cleaning alone won’t stop air leakage; replace or re-bush as needed.
- Theory: worn mechanical parts cannot be corrected by cleaning — they create persistent faults (leakage, flooding, mis‑metering).

8) Replace gaskets and worn small parts
- Install new bowl gasket, needle/seat if questionable, and any worn seals.
- Theory: old gaskets and seals leak air or fuel and will reintroduce symptoms even after cleaning.

9) Reassemble carefully
- Refit jets, float (set float height if adjustable), needle, bowl, throttle and choke linkages.
- Theory: correct float height and proper jet seating resume correct fuel level and metering.

10) Reinstall carburettor on manifold and reconnect linkages
- Use new gasket, torque/secure mounting bolts evenly, reconnect fuel line, throttle and choke linkages, return springs and air cleaner.
- Theory: a good seal prevents vacuum leaks that cause lean running or idle instability.

11) Start-up and adjustment
- Open fuel, prime if necessary, start engine. Adjust idle speed and mixture per original settings (idle screw and mixture screw if fitted) until smooth idle and correct slow‑throttle response. Check choke operation and full throttle response.
- Theory: after cleaning, the engine will need mixture and idle readjustment because airflow and spray patterns changed back to nominal; correct adjustments balance air–fuel for stable idle and throttle transition.

12) Test for leaks and final checks
- Inspect for fuel leaks, vacuum leaks (spray soapy water around manifold and gasket while engine running — watch for rpm change), and re-check throttle return and smooth movement. Test under load/normal operating conditions.
- Theory: detects remaining faults (fuel seepage, vacuum leaks, sticky throttle) that would reproduce symptoms.

Common faults and how cleaning fixes them (concise)
- Sticky throttle plate/choke causing poor idle/stalling: removing varnish and carbon frees movement; cleaning and lubricating shaft eliminates sticking.
- Hesitation/surge on acceleration: clogged jets or partially blocked aspirator disturb atomization; cleaning reopens passages and restores correct spray and mixture transition.
- Hard starting or flooding: dirty/weak needle seat or incorrect float level allow wrong fuel level; cleaning/ replacing needle/seat and setting float corrects flooding or starvation.
- High/rough idle after cleaning: often due to air leaks (throttle shaft or gasket) found during inspection — cleaning exposes these issues; replacing bushings/gaskets cures the persistent problem.

Quick diagnostics notes (to match cleaning):
- If symptoms return immediately after cleaning, suspect worn throttle shaft or leaking gasket rather than deposits.
- If cleaning improves but engine still rough, check ignition, timing and compression — cleaning fixes fuel/air metering problems, not ignition or mechanical engine faults.

Done.
rteeqp73

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