Ordered procedure with theory and how each repair action fixes the fault (Mazda3 — typical MacPherson front, torsion‑beam or multi‑link rear; always use factory specs for exact numbers):

1) Preparation and inspection (why first)
- What to do: check tires (wear pattern, pressure), wheel rims, suspension bushings, ball joints, tie-rod ends, strut mounts, control arms, rear axle mounts, steering free play, and ride height. Lift car and check for play.
- Theory/why: Alignment settings are meant to be applied to a車 that is structurally sound and at correct ride height. Worn parts or bent components change geometry under load and will make any adjustment temporary or incorrect. Fixing or replacing worn components restores the ability to hold and set alignment.

2) Set baseline conditions
- What to do: set correct tire pressures, ensure fuel/load representative, seat in driver or ballast if manufacturer requires, lower car to level surface. Center the steering wheel (lock or note center).
- Theory/why: Tire pressure and ride height change measured angles. Centering ensures steering plate is neutral; otherwise steering-wheel off-center can mask toe/caster issues.

3) Measure current geometry
- What to do: put car on alignment rack or turn plates and use alignment head to record toe, camber, caster, and thrust angle.
- Theory/why: You need initial numbers to diagnose which angles are out of spec and to track how adjustments move values. Patterns: uneven inner wear → negative camber or excessive toe-in; feathering → improper toe; car pulling → unequal camber/toe or thrust angle.

4) Rear alignment / thrust angle first
- What to do: on Mazda3s with adjustable rear toe (torsion‑beam has eccentric bolts; multi‑link has adjustable links), set rear toe to spec and get the thrust angle aligned to the vehicle centerline.
- Theory/why: Thrust angle determines where the rear wheels point relative to the chassis centerline. If the rear is skewed, the front steering must be offset to compensate, causing pull and steering-wheel off-center. Setting rear toe/thrust first gives the correct target for front wheel alignment. If rear is not adjustable (some torsion‑beams have limited adjustment), correct by replacing bent parts or using shims if specified.

5) Rough front camber and caster (if adjustable) — set to spec range
- What to do: adjust front camber and caster to within spec. On Mazda3 the front camber/caster are often adjustable via eccentric bolts at the lower control arm or strut-to-knuckle eccentric. Make coarse adjustments toward target.
- Theory/why: Camber is the tilt of the wheel in/out. Caster is the fore/aft tilt of the steering axis. Caster affects straight-line stability and camber gain in turns; camber affects tire contact patch and wear. You set camber/caster before final toe because changes in camber/caster alter toe readings and steering-wheel centering. Correcting camber removes uneven wear (inner or outer shoulder wear) by restoring proper contact patch. Correcting caster fixes steering returnability and directional stability.

6) Center steering and lock or note steering wheel position
- What to do: recenter steering wheel exactly; if necessary adjust steering column shim or note steering-wheel offset for final toe.
- Theory/why: Toe is referenced with the wheel centered. A non-centered steering wheel with correct toe is still an unacceptable condition for driver comfort and can indicate asymmetric caster.

7) Final front toe adjustment
- What to do: adjust front toe to spec (usually via inner or outer tie‑rod turnbuckle). Set toe on axle (total toe or per wheel) to manufacturer value.
- Theory/why: Toe is the angle that makes the wheels point slightly in or out. Toe controls directional stability and scrub. Excessive toe-in creates feathering and rolling wear on outer shoulder; toe-out tends to wear inner edges and makes the car unstable. Final toe adjustment is done last because toe is easily changed by camber/caster correction and by moving the steering center.

8) Re-check all settings and iterate
- What to do: after finishing adjustments, re-measure camber, caster, toe and thrust angle. Drive at speed and re-inspect tires and steering-wheel centering; re-check rack measurements.
- Theory/why: Adjusting one parameter often slightly moves others. Iteration ensures the whole system is within spec and the steering wheel is centered.

9) Road test and final verification
- What to do: road-test for steering return, pull, and straight-line tracking; re-check toe after warm-up drive (tires can seat). Confirm tire wear patterns are improving on subsequent checks.
- Theory/why: Dynamic behavior confirms static geometry. Road forces will reveal residual issues like bent components or binding bushings that static checks might miss.

How specific repairs fix common faults (cause → repair → how it fixes):
- Worn tie‑rod ends producing play → replace tie‑rod end and set toe.
How it fixes: Eliminates free play so toe setting is stable; prevents wandering and irregular wear caused by the wheel moving relative to steering.
- Bent control arm or knuckle → replace and align.
How it fixes: Restores correct suspension pivot geometry; camber/caster return to values that allow proper contact patch and steering geometry.
- Collapsed/weak strut spring or damaged strut mount → replace strut/spring/mount; set ride height and alignment.
How it fixes: Restores ride height and spring rate so camber/caster are in designed positions; eliminates persistent camber/caster shifts under load.
- Rear axle shifted (impact) → replace or realign axle or use correct shims/adjusters; set thrust angle and rear toe.
How it fixes: Rear pointing true to centerline prevents front from having to compensate; corrects pulling and off-center steering.
- Excess negative camber from worn lower control arm bushings → replace bushings/arm, then set camber.
How it fixes: Stops unwanted lateral movement of the control arm under load so camber doesn’t shift during driving; restores even tire wear.
- Uneven tire wear despite alignment adjustments → repair/replace tires and suspension components, then align.
How it fixes: New tire profiles and corrected geometry let contact patch be even across the tread; alignment prevents recurrence.

Important theory notes and interrelationships
- Interdependence: camber, caster and toe interact. Changing camber or caster moves the tie-rod geometry and changes toe; that’s why sequence matters.
- Thrust angle vs. toe: thrust is where the rear wheels point; toe is front wheel pointing. If thrust is off, front toe alone can’t fix overall tracking.
- Caster’s effect: increasing positive caster improves straight-line stability and returns the wheel to center; it also increases camber gain during turn (helps cornering).
- Scrub radius and steering feel: while usually fixed by suspension geometry, changing wheel offset or rim diameter changes scrub radius and can create kickback or heavier steering; alignment cannot fix trim-level changes (use correct wheels).
- Limits: some Mazda3 rear designs have limited camber adjustment — extreme camber faults may require part replacement rather than adjustment.

Practical cautions
- Always replace worn/bent components before alignment.
- Use factory specs for numbers. Small degrees matter; professional alignment equipment is recommended for accuracy.
- After collision repairs, measure chassis dimensions if alignment is out of allowable range.

Summary (succinct)
1. Inspect/repair worn or bent parts; set tire pressure and ride height.
2. Measure baseline.
3. Align rear toe/thrust angle first.
4. Adjust front camber and caster into spec.
5. Center steering and set final front toe.
6. Re-check, test drive, and verify.

This sequence and the physical fixes restore intended wheel angles, correct contact patch and steering geometry, prevent abnormal tire wear, and return stable, centered handling.
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- Safety first (short and exact)
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a flat surface, chock wheels, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Use jack stands under the car’s rated lift points — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- If you are not comfortable with lifting/holding heavy components (engine, transmission), stop and get a shop to do it.

- What “rear main seal” means and why you might replace it
- The rear main seal is the oil seal around the back of the crankshaft where it exits the engine and meets the transmission; a leak here lets engine oil leak onto the transmission or under the car.
- Replacement is required if you have visible oil dripping at the bellhousing, oil soaked clutch/flywheel (manual), or a steady oil loss from that area. Small weeps might be from mating surfaces, but usually the seal itself is the culprit.

- Big-picture difficulty and access note for Mazda3
- Mazda3 (FWD, transverse 4‑cylinder) requires removing the transmission/transaxle (manual or automatic) to access the rear main seal. This is a major job for a beginner — expect several hours to a full day and the need to support the engine while the transmission is out.

- Parts you will likely need (exact part numbers vary by year/engine)
- Rear main crankshaft seal (OEM or high-quality aftermarket; choose the correct part for your Mazda3 engine code/year).
- Rear main seal housing gasket or RTV sealant (if housing is separate).
- Flywheel/flexplate bolts (replace if torque-to-yield or if manufacturer recommends single-use bolts).
- Pilot bearing/bushing (manual transmission) — replace while accessible.
- Clutch disc/pressure plate (manual) — only if worn; inspect when clutch is exposed.
- Transmission fluid (or engine oil top-up) after reassembly.
- Optional: new transmission input seal or torque converter seal if they are leaking.

- Tools you likely already have (basic tools) and how to use them
- Basic socket set (metric sockets 8–19 mm), ratchet, and extensions
- Use the correct size socket fully seated on the fastener. Use extensions for recessed bolts. Avoid rounded corners by using a six-point socket for stubborn bolts.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Use closed-end on stubborn or tight-access bolts; open-end for speed. Match sizes to bolt heads.
- Breaker bar
- Longer lever to initially loosen tight bolts; pull smoothly rather than jerking.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, ft‑lb and Nm if possible)
- Set target torque, snug bolt, then apply until wrench clicks. Do final torques on flywheel, transmission mount, etc., to spec.
- Floor jack and jack stands
- Lift at recommended jacking points; place jack stands under solid frame points. Lower vehicle slowly onto stands. Never go under the car supported only by the jack.
- Screwdrivers and pry bar
- Use to remove clips, gently separate components. Use pry bar between transmission and engine only after bolts are removed, and pry gently to avoid damaging housings.
- Hammer and punch set
- Use for stubborn fasteners or dowel pins; use light taps and protect surfaces.
- Drain pan
- Catch fluids when disconnecting axles or removing transmission; dispose of fluids properly.
- Needle-nose pliers and snap-ring pliers
- For removing clips and retaining rings.

- Extra/specialty tools you will need (why and how to use them)
- Transmission jack (recommended) or a second floor jack with a wide wooden block
- Why: safely supports and lowers the heavy transmission. How: center the trans on the jack saddle, strap it or secure it, lower slowly and evenly while unbolting.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist / block jack
- Why: when the transmission is removed the engine needs support; prevents engine from dropping or twisting. How: if using an engine support bar, hook to lifting points and tension to carry engine weight; if using a jack, put a wood block under the oil pan area and lift gently to carry engine weight (be careful not to damage pan).
- Seal puller or small flat pry tool / dental pick
- Why: to remove the old seal without gouging the crankshaft or housing. How: slide under seal lip and pry out evenly in small increments, working around the seal.
- Seal installer or correctly sized socket/driver (brass or wood block will do temporarily)
- Why: to press the new seal squarely and evenly into its bore. How: center the seal on the shaft, press or tap gently and evenly around the outer edge until the seal is flush with the housing.
- Clutch alignment tool (manual)
- Why: if removing clutch, the alignment tool centers the clutch disk on the pilot bearing so the transmission input shaft can slide in easily. How: insert tool through the clutch disc into the pilot bearing, hold while torquing the pressure plate bolts.
- Flywheel holding tool (or use impact gun carefully)
- Why: to prevent crankshaft turning when loosening or torquing flywheel/flexplate bolts. How: engage tool in flywheel teeth or use one person to hold and another to torque.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level tasks with key actions — avoid improvisation)
- Prepare vehicle: disconnect battery, raise car, support on jack stands, remove any undertray or splash shields blocking access.
- Remove components for trans removal: remove wheels/axles (half shafts), disconnect starter, shift linkage, wiring harness connectors to transmission, speed sensors, exhaust pieces if obstructing, and any heat shields or braces.
- Support the engine: install engine support bar or set a jack under the engine with a wood block to take the engine weight once mount/crossmember is removed.
- Support and unbolt transmission: place transmission jack under transmission, remove transmission mount and crossmember bolts, unbolt the transmission from the engine bellhousing (remove all bellhousing bolts), then carefully lower the transmission straight back and down.
- Remove flywheel/flexplate and clutch/pressure plate (manual) or torque converter/flexplate bolts (automatic): mark orientation if necessary, remove bolts. Inspect flywheel surface and clutch components for damage or oil contamination — if contaminated, replace or resurface.
- Expose rear main seal: remove the rear main seal housing or access the seal lip depending on design. Clean around the area, inspect crankshaft rear surface for burrs or wear.
- Remove old seal: use a seal puller or small pry tool to carefully pull the old seal out. Clean the bore thoroughly and inspect for damage.
- Install new seal: lightly oil the inner lip (engine oil), position the seal square to the bore, use the seal installer or a socket of correct outer diameter and a soft mallet to drive it flush/evenly. Ensure the seal lip faces the oil side (toward engine) — factory orientation matters.
- Reassemble housing (use new gasket or RTV as specified): ensure mating surfaces are clean, apply specified sealant or replace gasket, torque bolts to spec.
- Reinstall flywheel/flexplate and torque bolts to spec; if manual, reinstall clutch with alignment tool; replace clutch components if contaminated or worn.
- Raise and align transmission: lift transmission into position on the transmission jack, align input shaft with clutch/engine, slide forward until bellhousing mates, install bellhousing bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall mounts, crossmember, starter, exhaust, axles, and all disconnected wiring.
- Refill fluids and double-check: refill transmission fluid, top up engine oil if needed, reconnect battery.
- Test for leaks: run the engine, inspect rear of engine and transmission mating area for leaks while at idle and after short drive.

- Common pitfalls and what to watch for
- Not supporting the engine properly — can cause engine to shift or damage mounts.
- Forcing the transmission off without all bolts removed — can break bolts or damage housings.
- Installing the new seal crooked or damaged during install — causes immediate leaks.
- Not replacing torque-to-yield bolts (flywheel bolts) — can fail later.
- Not inspecting clutch/flywheel for contamination — an oil soaked clutch will slip and must be replaced.

- When to consider a professional
- If you do not have a transmission jack or engine support, or if you are uncomfortable aligning a heavy transmission — this job is typically done in a shop because of the lifting, alignment and torque-critical fasteners involved.

- Final quick checklist of parts to buy before starting
- Correct rear main seal for your Mazda3 engine
- Rear main seal housing gasket or recommended RTV
- Flywheel/flexplate bolts (if single-use or rusted)
- Pilot bearing (manual) and/or new clutch if worn/oil soaked
- Transmission fluid and engine oil if you lose/contaminate any
- Optional: seal installer kit, transmission jack rental, engine support bar rental

- Final safety reminder (short)
- Use jack stands, secure heavy loads, torque critical bolts to spec, and if anything feels beyond your skills, let a professional do the job.
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