Tools & supplies
- Socket set (3/8" drive) with common sockets (8, 10, 12, 14 mm) + extensions
- Combination wrenches (8–14 mm)
- Screwdrivers: flat & Phillips
- Trim/clip removal tool or plastic pry tools
- Needle‑nose pliers & slip‑joint pliers
- Snap‑ring/circlip pliers (if cable uses circlips)
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Jack, jackstands or ramps; wheel chocks
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster)
- Light grease or PTFE spray for cable
- Replacement shift cable assembly (vehicle‑specific 6G72 part), new rubber grommets/bushings/clips
- Rags, gloves, safety glasses, small container for fasteners

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels. Set parking brake. Put transmission in PARK.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal (recommended) to prevent electrical issues and disable shift interlock.
- If lifting vehicle, support with jackstands — never rely on a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

Overview
You’ll remove interior trim/console to free the cable at the shifter, remove the cable attachment at the transmission, pull the old cable out (through firewall or from engine bay), install new cable, adjust, and test.

Step‑by‑step
1) Preparation
- Park level, chock wheels, set parking brake, put in PARK.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove shift knob: most screw off or pull up after releasing retaining clip. Use appropriate method for your model.
- Remove shift boot and console trim panels with trim tool; remove screws securing center console. Carefully disconnect any electrical connectors (shift lock, accessory power). Store fasteners.

2) Disconnect cable at shifter
- Expose shifter assembly. Locate cable end and retaining clip/pin on the shifter lever.
- Remove retaining clip/cotter or snap ring using needle‑nose or snap‑ring pliers. Some models use a plastic retainer — pry gently with a flat screwdriver.
- Slide cable end out of shifter lever. Leave the cable housing bracket attached if you’ll reuse it; remove bracket bolts if planning to replace bracket.

3) Access transmission end
- Raise the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands or use ramps so you can access the transmission shift lever.
- Locate the cable where it connects to the transmission shift lever (usually a small lever and rubber boot).
- Spray penetrating oil on rusty fasteners and let soak.

4) Remove cable from transmission
- Remove mounting bolts securing the cable bracket to the transmission or crossmember (commonly 10–14 mm).
- Remove any retaining clip/pin holding the cable end to the transmission shift lever (needle‑nose). Pull the cable stud out of the lever—may require prying the rubber boot aside.
- Unclip the cable from any body/frame clips along its route (underbody and firewall). Note routing — take pictures.

5) Remove cable from vehicle
- Feed cable out through engine bay or from cabin (reverse of installation path). Remove firewall grommet if applicable.
- Inspect grommets/bushings; plan to replace if cracked or worn.

6) Prepare & install new cable
- Compare old vs new cable to confirm correct length and ends. Install any supplied bushings/grommets onto the new cable.
- Route new cable exactly as the old one — avoid sharp bends, heat sources, and pinch points. Use existing clips or new zip ties where appropriate (do not over‑tighten).
- Feed cable through firewall grommet and into cabin, or insert from engine bay.

7) Connect transmission end
- Seat the cable end onto the transmission shift lever. Reinstall retaining clip/pin and the bracket. Tighten bracket bolts snugly (torque to factory spec if available — typically small bolts, ~8–20 ft‑lb; consult manual).
- Ensure boot/grommet seated to keep out water/dirt.

8) Connect shifter end
- With shifter lever in PARK, bring shifter into PARK position inside cabin. Attach the inner cable end to shifter lever and install retainer clip.
- Reinstall cable housing bracket to the shifter assembly and tighten.

9) Adjustment & testing
- Adjustment method (common): set console shifter to PARK, then adjust cable at transmission so transmission shift lever is aligned with PARK detent. Some cables have an adjustable threaded end or an adjustment bolt on the bracket—loosen lock nut, move adjuster until aligned, then re‑tighten.
- Verify all gear positions: with engine off, move shifter through park/rev/neutral/drive and confirm cable moves freely and positions correspond to transmission lever. Confirm transmission will only start in PARK/NEUTRAL.
- Reconnect negative battery and test shift interlock and start in PARK.
- Start engine, with foot on brake cycle through gears to confirm correct selection. Test drive at low speed to confirm.

10) Reassembly
- Reinstall console, electrical connectors, shift boot, shift knob. Reinstall any underbody covers removed.
- Lower vehicle, remove chocks.

Parts & replacement items frequently required
- Full shift cable assembly (vehicle/year specific)
- Rubber grommet/firewall seal
- Plastic/metal retaining clips or circlips (often supplied with cable)
- Cable brackets/bushings (replace if corroded)
- Shift boot or knob if damaged

How tools are used (brief)
- Socket & wrench: remove bracket bolts at transmission and console.
- Trim tools: pry panels without breaking clips.
- Needle‑nose pliers: remove/install retaining clips and pins.
- Penetrating oil: frees rusty bolts; apply and let soak.
- Torque wrench: tighten critical bolts to spec to avoid stripping or loosening.
- Jack & jackstands: safely lift and support vehicle for access.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Incorrect routing: causes binding or premature wear — copy old routing exactly.
- Not replacing worn grommets/retainers: leads to cable play and misalignment — replace them.
- Failing to align cable with PARK before tightening: results in wrong gear indication and starter interlock issues — always align and test before final tightening.
- Over‑tightening small bracket bolts: strips threads — use proper torque.
- Using wrong cable: must match model/year — verify part number.
- Reinstalling without testing: you must test gear engagement and start safety before final reassembly.

Final checks
- Confirm shifter moves smoothly through all gate positions.
- Confirm engine only starts in PARK/NEUTRAL.
- Check for unusual noises or binding during a short test drive.
- Re‑check bracket bolts and clips after first few days of driving.

Done.
rteeqp73

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