- Safety first
- Park on level ground, engine off, parking brake on, wheels chocked; disconnect battery negative if working near electrical or fuel components.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. If you need to raise the vehicle, use a proper jack and jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.

- What “accelerator linkage” means here
- On a Delica L300 this usually means the throttle cable from the pedal to the throttle body/carburetor plus the small linkage pieces, bushings and return spring at the throttle. The goal is to inspect, lubricate, adjust free play, or replace the cable/parts if they’re worn, frayed, sticking, or broken.

- Tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set with ratchet (metric sizes 8–14 mm typically)
- Description: ratchet handle and sockets that fit over hex nuts/bolts.
- How to use: select socket that fits snugly, attach to ratchet, turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Use extensions for hard-to-reach nuts.
- Combination wrenches (metric set 8–14 mm)
- Description: open end on one side, boxed end on the other.
- How to use: use boxed end for firm grip on nut, open end for tight spaces. Hold the bolt/nut steady while loosening the opposite fastener.
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat)
- Description: tip fits screw heads.
- How to use: choose correct size tip to avoid stripping; turn to loosen/tighten clamps or small screws.
- Needle-nose pliers
- Description: long-nosed pliers for gripping small parts/wire clips.
- How to use: squeeze to hold/pull small clips, connectors or cotter pins; good for removing spring clips on linkage.
- Adjustable (crescent) wrench
- Description: variable jaw opens to fit many bolt sizes.
- How to use: set jaws tight on fastener to avoid rounding; use when metric wrench not available.
- Slip-joint or locking pliers (vice grips)
- Description: extra strong grip for rounded or stubborn parts.
- How to use: clamp onto part, lock in place; useful for holding cable end while loosening nuts.
- Cable luber or thin-gun oil and a long straw applicator
- Description: tool or lubricant used to reduce cable friction.
- How to use: run lubricant into the cable sheath ends and housing while moving cable back and forth to distribute.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster)
- Description: loosens rusted seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on rusty nuts/bolts, wait 5–15 minutes, then attempt removal.
- Small pick set
- Description: pointed tools to pry out rubber bushings or remove cotter pins.
- How to use: gently pry clips/bushings without tearing them.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: illuminates dark engine bay or pedal area.
- How to use: position light to see linkage ends and cable fittings.
- Clean rags and mild degreaser
- Description: for cleaning grime and old grease.
- How to use: wipe linkage and inspect condition.
- Optional but recommended: jack and jack stands
- Why required: for access to underside if cable routing or firewall fittings are easier from below.
- How to use: lift vehicle at manufacturer jacking points, place stands, lower jack off stands.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- New cable (replacement) — required if cable is frayed, stretched, inner wire broken, or sticking.
- Replacement end fittings, bushings or circlips — required if mounting hardware is worn or missing to ensure secure attachment and correct movement.
- Throttle return spring — required if original spring is weak or broken; necessary to ensure throttle returns to idle.
- Carburetor/throttle body linkage rebuild kit (if applicable) — required when pivot bushings or small linkage parts are worn.
- Torque wrench (optional) — used to tighten fasteners to proper torque if you want exact specs; not strictly required for beginners but useful.

- Signs parts must be replaced (what to look for)
- Frayed or broken inner cable wires — replace cable immediately (safety + drivability).
- Cable housing cracked or split — replace to prevent binding/water ingress.
- Excessive play at pedal (more than a few mm) or very tight pedal (binding) — cable stretching or attachment wear may require replacement or adjustment.
- Sticky or slow returning throttle — check and lubricate; if persists, return spring or cable likely bad.
- Corroded/rounded end fittings, missing clips or worn bushings — replace to restore precise movement.

- What replacement parts to buy (what to match)
- Throttle cable assembly for Mitsubishi Delica L300 (specify year/engine when ordering) — choose OEM or a high-quality aftermarket that matches length, end fittings (barrel or ball ends), and mounting style.
- End clips/cotter pins and rubber bushings — cheap parts to replace worn mounts.
- Throttle return spring (vehicle-specific strength) — match OEM style or appropriate aftermarket equivalent.
- Throttle body or carburetor linkage rebuild kit if pivot bushings or pins are worn.

- Quick overview procedure (step-by-step in bullets)
- Inspect visible cable from pedal to engine bay
- Look for fraying, rust, kinks, damaged sheath or loose attachments. Wiggle cable and see if it moves smoothly.
- Check pedal free play and return
- With engine off, press the pedal gently and note the small travel before throttle begins to move at the carb/throttle body. Typical acceptable free play is minimal — a few millimeters; the throttle should snap back quickly when released.
- Lubricate cable and linkage first (if not damaged)
- Apply penetrating oil or cable lube at both ends and along exposed sheath while operating pedal to draw lubricant through. Use a spray straw for precision.
- Adjust cable free play (if adjustable)
- Locate adjuster near throttle body or at firewall bracket — usually a locknut and threaded cable end.
- Loosen the locknut with two wrenches, turn adjuster to reduce free play until slight movement of pedal produces throttle movement, then retighten locknut.
- Ensure there is still a small free play so throttle is not held open at rest.
- Test throttle operation before driving
- With engine off, operate pedal full travel, check that throttle opens fully and returns without sticking. Check for binding through entire motion.
- Remove and replace cable if needed
- Disconnect cable at pedal end: remove retaining clip or remove pedal pad to access cable end; use needle-nose pliers or pick to remove clip.
- Follow cable up through the firewall; remove firewall grommet if necessary.
- In engine bay, unclip cable from throttle bracket, remove any mounting clips and nuts (use socket/wrench). You may need penetrating oil on rusty hardware.
- Pull cable out. Compare old cable length and end fittings with replacement.
- Install new cable by routing it the same path, ensure grommet sealed in firewall, attach at throttle body and pedal, secure clips and nuts.
- Adjust free play with adjuster, secure locknut, test pedal return.
- Replace small linkage parts if worn
- Remove worn bushings, clips, springs and replace with new ones from kit. Use needle-nose pliers and pick to remove/install.
- Ensure pivot pins move freely and are lubricated.

- Testing and final checks
- Start engine, observe idle and throttle response while someone slowly presses pedal (use care; keep engine bay clear).
- Check for smooth acceleration and immediate return to idle when released.
- Re-check adjuster locknut is tight and cable cannot slip.
- Road test gently; if throttle feels sticky, noisy, or does not return fast, stop and re-check installation and spring condition.

- Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Leaving cable too tight so throttle is slightly open at rest — always leave a small free play.
- Reusing seriously frayed cables — replace them; frayed cables can snap suddenly.
- Forgetting to secure grommets/clips — leads to wear and misrouting.
- Not testing return under engine run — a cable may look fine cold but stick when warm or when engine moves.

- Troubleshooting quick tips
- Pedal feels spongy or delayed: inspect cable for inner wire stretch or damage.
- Throttle hangs open: likely return spring broken or cable dragging — remove cable and check free movement.
- Excessive pedal free play after adjustment: either adjuster backed out or cable stretched — check fittings and replace cable if needed.

- Final notes (concise)
- If cable or fittings are damaged, replacement cable and new small fittings/spring are usually necessary and inexpensive compared to the risk of failure.
- When ordering parts, provide vehicle year, engine code and whether the vehicle has carburetor or throttle body injection to get the correct cable.
- Work methodically, keep removed small parts in a tray, and don’t rush tests.

- Safety reminder
- If you’re unsure about any step affecting engine throttle control, consider a mechanic — throttle failure can be dangerous.
rteeqp73

1993 Mitsubishi Delica L300 2.5" side exit exhaust For sale in Phoenix az. 45k miles and comes with many new parts.

WATCH THIS BEFORE BUYING A MITSUBISHI DELICA! (L300 & L400) DELICA #MITSUBISHI #4X4VAN Hopefully this video helps you guys with your Delica purchase. More Delica content coming your ...

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