Tools & shop supplies (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (6–24 mm), extensions and universal joint
- Torque wrench (up to 200 Nm) — required for reassembly
- Breaker bar
- Combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers
- Snap‑ring / circlip pliers (internal & external)
- Hydraulic press (1–10 ton) or bearing driver set
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Dead blow hammer, brass drift set
- Bench vise with soft jaws
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for backlash/endplay)
- Micrometer / calipers (0.01 mm resolution)
- Feeler gauges
- Seal drivers / socket set for seals
- Punch set
- Impact wrench (optional, speeds removal)
- Transmission jack / engine support bar / floor jack & strong jack stands
- Drain pan, rags, parts trays, marker/paint pen for marking
- Clean solvent, brake cleaner, assembly lube, gear oil (OEM grade GL‑4 typically for Nissan manual)
- New gaskets, seals, bearings, synchro rings, shims, bolts (see replacement parts)
- Service manual for the exact Nissan model/transmission: torque values, endplay/backlash, shim locations, disassembly illustrations

Safety first
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels. Park in gear or on parking brake.
- Disconnect battery.
- Use a transmission jack or good floor jack and strong jack stands. Never rely on a single jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hair and loose clothing away from moving parts when testing.
- Clean workspace to prevent contamination of bearings/synchros.
- Get help for heavy lifting — a gearbox can be 30–60 kg depending on model.

Replacement parts to have on hand (typical rebuild kit)
- Full bearing kit (input, output, counter/lay shaft bearings)
- New synchro cone rings and blocking rings / complete synchro kits for all gears
- New input and output shaft seals and any cover gaskets
- Shift fork pads (or complete forks if worn)
- New mainshaft/layshaft gear or repair kit if gear teeth are damaged
- All snap rings, bolts (replace crush washers or long bolts if service manual advises)
- Gear oil (specified grade & quantity)
- Optional: new reverse idler bearings, selector shafts, speedometer drive, mainshaft if worn beyond spec

Step‑by‑step rebuild procedure (general manual gearbox)
Note: This is a generalized step sequence for Nissan manual transmissions used with the YD22DDTi; always follow the exact factory manual ordering, torque specs, shim thicknesses, and tolerances.

A. Removal from vehicle
1. Park, chock, disconnect battery. Raise vehicle, support on stands. Remove any splash shields and exhaust components blocking transmission removal.
2. Drain gearbox oil into pan.
3. Disconnect shift linkage (label or mark linkage orientation), speedometer cable/electrical sensors, reverse lockout rod, and any vent hoses.
4. Disconnect drive shafts/CV axles from transmission — unbolt flange or hub connections. If transaxle, pull halfshafts as required.
5. Support engine if necessary (engine mount supporting required if removing bellhousing support).
6. Support transmission with a transmission jack. Remove crossmember(s) and lower transmission mount bolts.
7. Unbolt bellhousing from engine block (starter, clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic line — remove or tie out of the way). Carefully slide transmission back off input shaft and lower clear of vehicle.

B. External disassembly & inspection
8. Clean exterior of sand/debris. Place transmission on a bench on soft blocks.
9. Remove external covers: speedometer housing, selector cover, front/rear case covers following factory order.
10. Photograph and mark all linkage orientation, forks, and shims for reference.
11. Remove shift forks/selector mechanism, keeping track of fork orientation and pads. Note wear patterns.
12. Remove snap rings, withdraw mainshaft and layshaft assembly and input shaft assembly as instructed in service manual. Use snap‑ring pliers and press where required.

C. Internal inspection & measuring
13. Inspect gears for chipped teeth, scoring, pitting or heavy wear. Check synchro rings for glazing, broken teeth, or crushing of friction material.
14. Check bearings by hand for roughness and play. Measure journal diameters with micrometer and bearing bores with inside micrometer if needed.
15. Measure gear teeth & backlash with dial indicator — mount casing and rotate to find backlash between mainshaft and countershaft gears. Compare to manual spec.
16. Check endplay (axial movement) of shafts with dial indicator; check thrust washers and shims.

D. Removing & replacing bearings/gears
17. Use hydraulic press to remove tightly fitted bearings and to press bearings onto shafts. Procedure:
- Mount shaft in press with support under appropriate race.
- Use correct sized driver to press on bearing outer race when removing from shaft; to install press on inner race when fitting to shaft. Prevent pressing on rolling elements.
- For race removal from case, use bearing puller or drift on race edge (careful not to damage bore).
18. Replace all bearings with new ones from kit. Heat bearings modestly (oil bath at ~80–90°C) or use press — avoid overheating. Press bearings squarely to avoid brinelling.
19. Replace synchro cones/rings. When installing new rings, make sure they seat fully against cone and that blocking ring orientation is correct (lead-in chamfers match).
20. Replace seals and O‑rings with new units using correct seal driver. Lightly grease seals for assembly.

E. Reassembly & setting clearances
21. Reassemble shafts into case in reverse order of disassembly. Use assembly lube on bearings/journals and synchro surfaces.
22. Install snap rings fully into grooves — ensure they seat completely. Bent or loose snap rings cause catastrophic failure.
23. Fit shift forks and selector rails; ensure fork pockets and pads are properly oriented and not binding.
24. Set endplay and shims: install specified shims/thrust washers to achieve factory endplay using feeler gauge and dial indicator. If replacing bearings, measure and select shim pack to achieve spec.
25. Check gear backlash: mount dial indicator on housing, measure and adjust shims as necessary to get spec backlash. Tighten case bolts finger-tight while checking; torque to spec per manual after confirming measurements.

F. Final assembly & test
26. Install case cover/gasket and torque bolts to specified values and sequence.
27. Install external sensors, speedo drive, and any bracketry.
28. Refill with the correct gear oil to specified level and type.
29. Bench test shift through all gears; ensure smooth selection and proper synchro operation.
30. Reinstall transmission into vehicle using transmission jack, aligning splines carefully to avoid damaging input shaft seal or clutch splines. Use new pilot bearing / input seal if removed.
31. Reconnect driveshafts, clutch slave/master lines, linkage, mount crossmember, and torque to spec. Reconnect battery.
32. Start engine, test for leaks, test clutch engagement and road test carefully, checking for noise or slipping in each gear.

How each specialized tool is used (brief)
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress or expand rings to remove/fit into grooves. Use correct internal vs external type.
- Hydraulic press: used to push bearings/gears off or onto shafts smoothly. Press only on the race needed (inner race for pressing onto a shaft; outer race for pressing off a shaft).
- Bearing puller: grabs bearing outer race so you can extract without hammering shafts.
- Dial indicator: mounted to case or bench to measure backlash (lateral play between gears) and axial endplay of shafts. Rotate gear and record maximum deflection.
- Micrometer/calipers: measure shaft journal diameters, gear widths, and synchro ring thickness.
- Seal driver: evenly seats seals into bores without distorting lips.
- Torque wrench: final bolt torques must be to factory spec; vital for bearing preloads and case clamping.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not following OEM specs for shims/backlash/endplay — result: noise, rapid bearing/gear failure. Always measure and use factory values.
- Pressing bearings incorrectly — pressing on rolling elements or unevenly seats and damages bearings. Always press on correct race and support shaft.
- Reusing worn synchro rings or pads — results in poor shifting. Replace whenever wear is evident or as part of a rebuild kit.
- Not replacing seals or installing them crooked — causes leaks. Use proper drivers and new seals.
- Losing orientation of parts & shims — mark everything during disassembly and photograph. Keep parts in order in trays.
- Improper snap ring seating — can slip out under load causing catastrophic failure. Check rings are fully in groove by feel and view.
- Contaminating bearings with dirt or using dirty oil — clean parts and work area; use lint‑free rags and new oil.
- Not torquing bolts to spec or using threadlocker where required — case separation or fastener loosening over time.
- Forcing shafts or gears — if things don’t go together, recheck alignment and shims rather than hammering.
- Forgetting to replace clutch components when necessary — worn clutch can mask transmission issues; always inspect clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing.

Notes & final reminders
- Exact torque values, shim thicknesses, bearing preload, and backlash numbers vary by Nissan transmission model — consult the factory service manual for the specific gearbox paired with the YD22DDTi before final assembly.
- If you lack a hydraulic press, precision measuring tools, or experience setting shims/backlash, consider having a machine shop or transmission specialist press bearings and perform final measurements.
- Replace the clutch or pilot bearing while gearbox is out — good practice and saves future labor.

This procedure covers a full manual gearbox rebuild workflow for Nissan transmissions used with YD22DDTi engines. Follow factory manual specs and take your time; accuracy during measurement and assembly avoids repeat work.
rteeqp73

Nissan B11 Engine full Restoration Nissan B11 Engine full Restoration.

How to service a Nissan engine We hope this video will help you understand what is required to service your 4x4 Engine 2.5 TD. And also the pit falls if not done ...

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