1) Purpose & theory — what the trailing arm does
- The trailing arm locates the rear wheel/axle fore-aft and resists braking/drive forces; its bushings control relative movement between the axle and body.
- Symptoms of a bad arm/bushing: clunks on acceleration/braking, rear stepping under braking, wandering/poor stability, uneven tyre wear, changed toe/camber. These are caused by excessive free play or a bent arm that lets the wheel move out of intended geometry.
- Replacing the arm or worn bushings restores the correct axle location and stiffness, removing the free play and restoring suspension geometry and predictable loads to other components.

2) Preparations (theory + what to have)
- Tools: jack and axle stands, floor jack, socket set, breaker bar/impact, torque wrench, penetrating oil, pry bar, rubber mallet, punch, new trailing arm (and new bolts/nuts if required), grease for new bushings, wheel chocks.
- Safety: block front wheels, use rated stands, never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Theory: correct parts, safe support and proper torquing are required to set bushings at the correct preload and to avoid introducing new failures.

3) Lift & support (ordered)
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels. Loosen rear wheel nuts slightly.
- Raise vehicle by the recommended jacking points and support chassis on axle stands. Keep rear axle supported with a floor jack under the axle or the trailing arm to take load.
- Theory: the jack prevents the axle from dropping when you remove bolts and keeps components under controlled load.

4) Remove wheel and free connected items
- Remove the wheel. Locate and free anything attached to the trailing arm: ABS sensor wiring clips, brake hose bracket, parking-brake cable bracket, anti-roll bar link (if connected to arm), lower shock absorber bolt. Do not disconnect hydraulic hoses unless necessary. If a brake hose must be detached, be prepared to bleed the system.
- Theory: the trailing arm is a mounting point for several components; freeing them prevents damage when the arm is removed.

5) Support the axle / trailing arm
- Use a jack or support under the axle or arm so the axle is held in position when the arm’s pivot bolts are removed.
- Theory: prevents sudden drop that can stretch/tear lines or damage components.

6) Remove pivot bolts and nuts
- Apply penetrating oil to pivot bolts. Remove the bolt(s) securing the trailing arm to the body/subframe (inner pivot) and to the axle or subframe (outer pivot). On many Nissans these are large bolts; use correct sockets. Keep track of washers/dust caps. If bolts are seized, use heat or cutting as needed.
- Theory: these bolts clamp the bushings and hold arm geometry — removing them frees the arm.

7) Remove the trailing arm
- Lower the jack slowly and withdraw the arm from its mounts. Inspect bolt holes, bush seats, and mating surfaces for damage, corrosion, or elongation.
- Theory: visual inspection verifies if only the arm/bush needs replacement or if surrounding structure is bent/damaged.

8) Prepare new arm & transfer items
- Transfer brackets, sensors, grease fittings, or hardware from the old arm to the new one if not supplied. Grease bushes if required by the part instructions. Replace any damaged mounting hardware.
- Theory: fresh hardware and properly greased bushings ensure longevity; reused corroded bolts are a failure risk.

9) Fit new arm loosely
- Position the new trailing arm and insert the pivot bolts without fully tightening — finger tight or just enough to hold. Reconnect brake hose bracket, ABS clips, parking brake cable bracket, sway bar link and lower shock bolt loosely.
- Theory: leaving bolts loose allows the suspension to settle at normal ride height before final bolt preload is applied, preventing bush pre-load.

10) Set ride height and final torque (critical)
- Lower the vehicle onto its wheels (or support the axle at normal ride height) so the suspension is at normal ride height. With the car on the ground, torque the trailing arm pivot bolts to the manufacturer’s specification. Torque the other reconnects (shock, brake bracket, sway link) to spec as well. If you cannot place the vehicle on the ground, follow the factory instruction (some manuals specify torquing with specified load).
- Theory: bushings should be tightened with the suspension in its loaded/normal position; tightening while drooped pre-loads the bushing and causes premature wear and changed geometry.

11) Recheck and bleed if needed
- If any brake hose or caliper was opened, bleed the brakes. Check parking brake adjustment. Refit wheel, torque wheel nuts to spec. Lower vehicle fully.
- Theory: hydraulic system integrity and parking brake function must be confirmed after any work.

12) Alignment and road test
- Get a professional 4-wheel alignment (toe and camber check) after replacement. Perform a careful road test checking for noise, handling, and braking behavior. Recheck torque after a short test drive.
- Theory: replacing the arm restores geometry potential, but alignment ensures wheels are within spec; road test verifies symptom resolution and that no new issues were introduced.

13) How this repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Worn bushings or a bent arm allow unwanted movement and change wheel alignment under load. Installing a new arm (or new bushings) removes the play and restores the designed location and stiffness of the axle. That eliminates the clunks, wandering, and uneven tyre wear caused by the free play and returns braking and handling behavior to normal.

14) Important notes & cautions
- Always use proper torque specs from the Nissan factory manual for your exact vehicle variant — pivot bolt torque and final tightening procedure vary by model/year.
- Replace corroded or stretch bolts rather than reusing; some pivot bolts are torque-to-yield.
- If the arm is bent from impact, do not attempt to straighten it — replace it.
- If you cannot torque pivot bolts at ride height, follow the official service manual method; incorrect bushing preload is the most common cause of failure after replacement.

End.
rteeqp73

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