Tools & supplies
- 4-post lift or floor jack + 4 jack stands and heavy-duty wheel chocks
- Wheel turn plates (front) and rear slip plates or heel plates (or a 4-wheel laser alignment machine)
- Wheel clamps/sensors for laser machine (if using)
- Camber/caster gauge (digital or mechanical) or 3-wheel alignment head (or laser system)
- Toe plates and tape measure or toe gauge (if not using laser)
- Steering wheel centring tool or tape/marker
- Feeler gauges, pry bar, breaker bar, sockets/wrenches, torque wrench
- Penetrant (PB blaster), anti-seize, thread locker
- Tire pressure gauge, air compressor
- Dial indicator or play checker for wheel bearings and tie rod ends (optional)
- Battery charger/trickle charger (for laser system if needed)
- Service manual for Toyota Hiace alignment specs (camber, caster, toe, thrust angle, ride height)

Safety precautions (do first)
1. Work on a level surface or preferably on a lift. Engage parking brake and chock wheels not being lifted.
2. Never rely on a jack alone — support with jack stands or use a lift.
3. Keep hands/loose clothing away from rotating wheels. Use safety glasses and gloves.
4. Make sure steering wheel is unlocked and free to rotate during measurements (do not block with steering lock).
5. If using a laser system, follow the manufacturer’s safety and calibration procedures.

Preparation steps
1. Consult the Hiace service manual for the exact alignment specs (front camber, caster, toe; rear toe/thrust angle; ride height).
2. Check/record tire pressures and inflate to spec. Measure tire wear and condition — replace if severely worn.
3. Inspect suspension & steering: tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, strut mounts, wheel bearings, sway bar links, steering rack boots. Any play must be addressed before alignment.
4. Check ride height; sagged springs change camber/caster and must be corrected or noted.
5. Ensure wheels and rims are straight; hub runout will distort readings. Remove hubcaps/valve caps that block sensors.
6. Center the steering wheel and secure it (mark with tape) so you can return to the same center during/after adjustments.

Measurement method (determine what equipment you have)
- If using a 4-wheel laser alignment machine: attach sensors/clamps to wheels per manufacturer instructions, power the unit and input vehicle data (wheelbase, track width). Zero/level the system, then read current camber/caster/toe/thrust on screen.
- If using turn plates + camber/caster gauge + toe plates:
A. Place front wheels on turn plates and rear wheels on rear plates. Make sure plates are clean and aligned.
B. Attach camber gauge to the wheel or hub face per tool instructions. For caster, use a caster gauge or use a combined camber/caster tool: lock the gauge to the wheel plane and read on center and at full lock to calculate caster.
C. Toe: with wheels straight ahead and steering centered, apply toe plates against rim or use toe bars or tape measures. Measure distance across front of rims and across rear of rims at the same height — toe = front measurement minus rear measurement (convert to mm per wheel or degrees using spec method). For string method: run string parallel to wheel centerline, measure distance to rim at front and rear.
D. Record all readings.

Step-by-step alignment (front-end focus; adjust rear/thrust as applicable)
1. Recheck that steering wheel is centered. Move wheel to center and lock/mark.
2. Measure current toe, camber, caster, and thrust angle. Record.
3. Adjust toe first (front toe-in/out):
- Loosen the lock nut on the outer tie rod.
- Turn the tie rod to shorten/lengthen to achieve specified toe (turning one side will affect steering wheel position; use both sides equally if possible or adjust then re-center steering wheel).
- Re-measure toe until within spec. Torque locknuts to spec.
- Common approach: set total toe to factory value and ensure left/right equal.
4. Adjust camber:
- On many Hiace models camber is set by eccentric bolts on lower control arm or by cam bolts at strut tower. Identify the adjustable point per manual.
- Loosen camber adjustment bolts, move control arm/strut to achieve correct camber, retighten to torque spec.
- Re-check camber and toe (camber adjustment can alter toe).
5. Adjust caster (if adjustable):
- Caster usually adjusted via eccentric bushings/control arm position or caster adjustment bolts. Increase or decrease by moving the control arm fore/aft per manual.
- Caster changes can move steering wheel; re-center wheel and recheck toe/camber.
6. Rear alignment/thrust angle:
- For solid rear axles or beam axles, adjust toe/shim plates as required. Thrust angle should be zero or within spec. If rear axle is out of alignment and cannot be corrected with shims, inspect for frame damage.
7. After adjustments, re-torque all fasteners to spec, recheck all angles and the steering center. Iterate until all values are within factory tolerances.
8. Road test: drive straight at 50–80 km/h, check steering pull and steering wheel position. Return and recheck alignment, retorque if needed.

How the common tools are used — quick how-to
- Turn plates: Wheels sit on plates so they can rotate freely while measuring steering angle and toe changes. They prevent scrubbing and give accurate toe readings while steering is moved.
- Camber gauge: Clamp to wheel face or hub; zero on a known vertical reference and read camber angle. Some gauges set to rim diameter; follow gauge instructions.
- Caster gauge: Often combined with camber gauge. Place gauge in wheel plane, swivel wheel to full left and full right and use the two readings to compute caster via the gauge’s built-in calculation (difference/2 etc.). Electronic units compute this automatically.
- Toe plates/string: Toe plates sit against rims; use a straightedge or tape measure between front and rear plates at the same height. String method uses two parallel lines run along sides of the vehicle aligned to rear wheel centerlines — measure distances to front rims.
- Laser alignment: Clamp sensors to wheels, enter vehicle data, zero the system, follow on-screen prompts. The system measures camber, caster and toe digitally and shows adjustments needed.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Failing to correct worn parts first — tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings must be good or alignment won’t hold.
- Incorrect tire pressure or unequal tires — always set to spec and use matched tires.
- Not centering steering wheel before measurement — will give wrong toe/caster relationship.
- Measuring on uneven floor — always level surface or use lift with level platforms.
- Forgetting ride height check — sagged springs affect geometry.
- Overlooking rear alignment/thrust angle — causes steering pull even if front is within spec.
- Not torquing fasteners after adjustment — components can shift.
- Incomplete inspection — wheel bearing play, loose hub nuts, and steering rack play will give false measurements.

Replacement parts commonly required for a proper alignment
- Outer/inner tie rod ends (most common)
- Ball joints and control arm bushings
- Struts/shock absorbers (if worn, they affect alignment under load)
- Steering rack/gear (if excessive play)
- Wheel bearings/hubs (if excessive runout or play)
- Camber/caster adjustment bolts or eccentric bolts if damaged
- Rear axle shims or alignment shims (for beam axles)
- Sway bar links/bushings if worn

Final verification
- Confirm all angles are within factory specifications from the Hiace service manual.
- Ensure steering wheel is straight and centered.
- Road test and re-check alignment on lift. Double-check torque on all adjusted fasteners.

Notes
- Always use Toyota Hiace model-specific specs (year/generation changes geometry). If uncertain, consult the official service manual.
- If major suspension damage or bent components are found, replace parts before attempting alignment.

End of procedure.
rteeqp73

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