Clear, detailed step‑by‑step guide for replacing the suspension dampers (shock absorbers) on a Nissan D22 family truck (Frontier / Navara / Terrano / Hardbody). I’ll explain what every component is, why the repair is needed, how the system works, what can go wrong, and give safe, practical instructions for the common D22 layouts. No extra questions.

Quick overview / theory (why shocks matter)
- Springs (coil or leaf) hold ride height and store energy. Without control they bounce like a pogo stick.
- Dampers (shock absorbers) control the motion of the springs by forcing hydraulic fluid through valves so the energy is converted to heat — that slows and controls rebound and compression.
- Analogy: springs are the trampoline, shocks are the person pushing water through a narrow pipe to slow the trampoline movement.
- Worn/failed shocks = excessive bounce, poor road-holding, longer stopping distances, uneven tire wear, bottoming or nose dive, poor steering feedback. Replace when leaking, reduced damping, lots of bounce, or visible damage.

Common D22 suspension layouts (what to expect)
- Front (most D22s): Independent double‑wishbone with coil spring and a separate shock absorber (not a McPherson strut). Shock mounts at the chassis/frame top and to the lower control arm or knuckle bottom.
- Rear (most D22 trucks): Solid live axle with leaf springs and separate shock absorbers mounted between axle and chassis. Some variants/markets may use coil springs on rear — I’ll point where procedures differ.
- Because designs vary by year/market, check which you have before starting.

Components — what each part is and what to inspect
- Shock absorber (damper): cylinder containing fluid and piston/valve. Look for oil leaks, dents, bent rod, damaged mount bushings.
- Dust boot / ROM (rubber dust cover): protects piston rod. Replace if torn — a torn boot lets dirt destroy the seal.
- Bump stop (jounce bumper): small rubber/foam stop limits travel to prevent hard hits. Replace if smashed/crumbled.
- Top mount / mount bracket / bushings: rubber or hydraulic isolator between shock and chassis. Cracked or soft = noise and poor function.
- Lower mount / eyelet / bolt & nut: secures bottom of shock to axle/control arm; check for seized or elongated holes.
- Leaf spring & shackles (rear leaf-sprung trucks): secure axle; worn bushings or broken leaves cause slop and can affect ride.
- Sway bar end link (if attached to shock/damper): sometimes connected to lower mount; check condition.
- Fasteners: nuts, bolts, washers; often corroded — plan to replace if damaged.
- Brake lines & ABS lines: routed near shocks — inspect for chafing before reassembly.

Tools & supplies
- Floor jack and quality jack stands (rated for your vehicle)
- Wheel chocks
- Appropriate sockets and wrenches (metric set up to 19–24 mm typically)
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar, penetrating oil (PB Blaster), wire brush
- Ratchet & extensions
- Hammer, rubber mallet, pry bar
- Spring compressor only if you must disassemble a coilover/strut assembly (rare on D22 front)
- New replacement shocks/dampers (correct part number for your model)
- New mounting nuts/bolts and washers (recommended)
- Anti‑seize or threadlocker (as specified by manual)
- Gloves, eye protection
- Shop manual or OEM torque specs (essential)

Safety first — non‑negotiable
- Park on flat surface, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands under solid points.
- If compressing springs, use a proper spring compressor and follow its instructions exactly — compressed springs store lethal energy.
- Support the axle or lower control arm with a jack when removing shock bolts so nothing drops abruptly.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

General sequence for both front and rear replacement
1) Prep: Park, chock, loosen wheel lug nuts slightly.
2) Raise vehicle and support on stands. Remove wheel.
3) Inspect & support the component (axle/control arm) so it won’t drop.
4) Remove any connected items (sway link, brake line bracket, ABS sensor clip) from the shock.
5) Remove lower shock bolt(s) then top nuts/bolts and remove shock.
6) Compare old and new unit; transfer or replace bump stop/dust boot if needed.
7) Fit new shock, loosely install top and bottom fasteners, torque to spec with vehicle at normal ride height (or supported so mounts are in neutral position).
8) Reconnect brackets, lines, sway links. Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts, and test drive + alignment check as needed.

Detailed front shock replacement (double‑wishbone with separate shock)
- What you’ll remove/see: wheel, rotor/hub still attached, shock top mount inside engine bay or upper frame pocket, lower bolt at lower control arm/knuckle.
Steps:
1) Loosen front wheel lugs. Raise front and support on stands under the specified pinch weld or frame.
2) Remove wheel.
3) Support lower control arm/knuckle with a jack so it won’t drop when shock is removed. You want to maintain approximate ride height to avoid binding rubber mounts.
4) Remove any bracket/clip from the shock body holding brake lines or ABS wires.
5) Apply penetrating oil to lower shock bolt & top nuts. Let soak if corroded.
6) Remove lower shock bolt(s). You may need to remove a retaining bracket or sway link if it’s in the way.
7) Remove the upper nut(s). On many D22s these are accessible from wheel arch or under the bonnet — remove plastic inner fender or engine bay cover if needed.
8) Extract shock assembly downward. If the shock is stuck, a few sharp hits with a rubber mallet on the lower mount while prying the control arm slightly may break it free.
9) Inspect top mount bushing, dust boot, and bump stop. Replace boot/bump stop with new shock if not preinstalled.
10) Fit new shock: hand‑start upper nuts (do NOT fully torque yet). Lower jack a little so the bottom holes line up; insert lower bolt and hand‑tighten nut.
11) With vehicle on its wheels (or control arm loaded as when ride height is normal), torque upper and lower fasteners to factory spec. If you must torque on stands, support the lower arm so the suspension is at nominal ride height.
12) Reattach any brackets/clips. Reinstall wheel. Lower vehicle. Final torque wheel lugs (cross pattern). Repeat other side.

Detailed rear shock replacement (leaf spring / live axle)
- On D22 leaf‑spring rear trucks the rear shocks are usually mounted between axle and chassis via lower eye and upper bracket.
Steps:
1) Loosen rear wheel lug nuts. Raise rear and support on stands under axle or chassis frame rails. Chock front wheels.
2) Remove wheel for access.
3) Support axle with a jack (so it’s supported when shock removed).
4) Remove any clips or brackets (brake hose/ABS clips) attached to the shock.
5) Spray penetrating oil on upper & lower bolts & nuts. Let soak.
6) Remove lower bolt first (or upper, either works) — some prefer lower first to allow the shock to be folded down.
7) Remove upper bolt and pull shock out.
8) If the lower bracket bolts are rusty/rounded, cut and replace; consider replacing hardware with new grade bolts.
9) Compare new vs old; transfer bump stop if necessary or fit new.
10) Install new shock with hand‑tightened bolts first.
11) With axle supported at ride height (or with vehicle resting on wheels), torque fasteners to spec.
12) Reattach clips, reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lugs.

If rear uses coil springs (less common): same caution as front coil spring mounting — do not detach any coil spring without proper support and a spring compressor if the spring is under preload. Often shock lower bolt removal is same but ensure axle or control arm is supported so spring is not forced out.

Torque specs and fastening notes
- DO NOT guess torque specs. Use OEM service manual or a reliable source for exact numbers for your year/market D22.
- Typical guidance (approximate) for many compact trucks:
- Shock lower bolt: medium-high torque (e.g., 70–150 Nm range depending on bolt size) — check manual.
- Upper nuts/bearings: lower torque (e.g., 30–80 Nm) depending on design.
- Replace any heavily corroded bolts / nuts and use recommended threadlocker or anti‑seize per manual.
- Important: many manufacturers specify to torque shock upper nuts with the vehicle at normal ride height so bushings aren’t preloaded. If you torque with suspension fully drooped, you can preload bushings and cause noise or binding.

Things that can go wrong (and how to avoid)
- Seized bolts: Use penetrating oil, heat cautiously (avoid rubber/brake line damage), or cut/replace bolt. Avoid rounding nuts — use proper sockets and breaker bars.
- Springs under load: Don’t remove a shock if it’s part of a strut assembly with compressed coil unless you have a spring compressor and know how to use it.
- Preloading rubber bushings: If you torque with suspension at full droop, you can put the bushing in a twisted state causing noise and premature wear. Support suspension at ride height when torquing if possible.
- Damaged ABS/brake lines: When removing shock, flexible lines can be stretched or pinched—unclip them and ensure good routing.
- Incorrect parts: New shocks must be the correct length and mounting type (eye/eye, stud/eye). Compare new to old before installing.
- Leaving dust boot/bump stop torn: dirt will kill a new seal fast. Replace these with the shock.
- Alignment: Replacing shocks can change camber/toe slightly; if you remove control arm bolts or the vehicle’s alignment feels off, get a professional alignment.

Inspection checklist and test drive
- After installation and lowering:
- Check that all fasteners are torqued to spec.
- Check brake/ABS lines and sway bar links for correct routing and clearance.
- Check wheel torque to spec.
- Bounce test: push down on a corner — car should return and settle within 1–2 bounces.
- Short cautious test drive: check for noises, clunks, poor steering return, or nose dive on braking.
- Road test different surfaces to ensure dampers control rebound & compression.
- If anything feels loose or noisy, recheck fasteners and mounting points.
- Get a wheel alignment if you disturbed steering or suspension geometry or if tire wear/handling feels off.

Replacement parts to always consider
- New shocks/dampers (right part number and same valving for your use)
- New top mounting nuts or bolts as needed
- New lower bolts if corroded
- Dust boots and bump stops
- Sway‑bar links or bushings if worn
- Anti‑seize or threadlocker (as manual recommends)

Troubleshooting common symptoms after replacement
- Excessive noise at full lock or over bumps: check bushings/bearings orientation, torque.
- Harsh ride: installed the wrong valved shocks (sport vs comfort) or preloaded bushings.
- Continued bounce: defective new shocks (rare) or wrong part/installation error.
- Pulling or alignment issues: probably alignment needed or bent component.

Final practical tips (no fluff)
- Work one corner at a time — you can use the other side as reference.
- Keep old shock bolts/nuts available until new unit is fitted and verified — sometimes threads differ.
- Clean mounting faces and apply anti‑seize for future removal unless manual specifies threadlocker.
- Replace shocks in axle pairs (both front or both rear) for balanced handling.
- If rusty hardware is a problem, remove and replace with new grade bolts rather than rounding them off.

That’s the full practical guide. Do the job with correct tools, follow safety procedures, use OEM torque specs from the factory service manual for your exact D22 year/model, and replace both shocks on an axle at once for safe, predictable handling.
rteeqp73

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