Quick summary first: a “clutch” on these D22-series Nissan trucks is the device that couples the engine to the gearbox. There are two contexts people call “automatic clutch” — (A) a manual-transmission clutch that’s cable- or hydraulically-actuated and self-adjusting in some markets, and (B) clutches inside an automatic transmission (clutch packs/plates inside the AT). I’ll show you both: full, beginner-friendly theory, every component you’ll touch, diagnosis, and step‑by‑step repair instructions. Safety notes are up front — read and follow them.

Safety (must-do)
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels and use rated jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the battery (negative terminal) before major work.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use long-handled tools with care.
- Transmission and clutch components are heavy. Get a helper or use a transmission jack.
- Dispose of fluids properly. Have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Consult a factory service manual for torque specs, fluid types, and exact sequences for your model/year. I’ll tell procedures and principles; use the manual for exact numbers.

PART 1 — THEORY: what the clutch does and why it fails
- Purpose: The clutch lets the engine spin while the gearbox is disengaged to change gears, and it smoothly transmits torque from engine to transmission when engaged. Analogy: the clutch is like a removable coupling or a “dimmer” switch between the engine and gearbox — engage it fully for full connection, disengage it to separate them.
- How it works (manual-transmission version): engine flywheel is bolted to the crank. The clutch assembly (clutch disc + pressure plate) presses the disc against the flywheel. When pressed, friction transmits engine torque through the disc hub splined to the gearbox input shaft. Opening the clutch (pressing the pedal) moves the release bearing and relieves pressure from the pressure plate, separating the disc from the flywheel.
- How it works (automatic trans): torque converter couples engine to trans fluidically at low speeds. Inside the automatic gearbox are multiple clutch packs (friction + steel plates) that lock planetary sets to produce different gear ratios. These are engaged hydraulically by the valve body and servos.
- Why repair is needed: wear (friction material), contamination (oil on the disc), warped flywheel/pressure plate, failed hydraulic parts (master or slave), a broken cable, worn release bearing, or internal automatic-transmission friction plate wear/hard spots. Symptoms: slipping under load, chatter/judder when engaging, clutch noise, pedal collapse or spongy pedal, no drive, grinding gears, or automatic gearbox harsh shifts.

PART 2 — COMPONENTS (detailed descriptions)
Manual-clutch components (what you will see/replace)
- Flywheel: heavy steel plate bolted to crank. Provides the surface the clutch disc presses against. Can be machined/resurfaced; deep heat spots or cracks require replacement.
- Clutch disc (friction disc): round plate with friction linings on both sides and a splined hub that slides onto the transmission input shaft. Often has springs in the hub to dampen driveline shock.
- Pressure plate (clutch cover assembly): bolts to the flywheel and uses diaphragm spring(s) to clamp the disc to the flywheel.
- Release (throwout) bearing: rides on the clutch fingers/diaphragm and against the release fork. It presses on the pressure plate to release the disc.
- Release fork (or concentric slave arrangement): the mechanical lever that pushes the release bearing; older models use an external fork and a slave cylinder pushes the fork; some use a concentric slave bearing inside the bellhousing.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: in the center of the flywheel or crank nose; supports the gearbox input shaft.
- Master cylinder (if hydraulic): pedal-operated fluid cylinder; when pushed it sends fluid to the slave. Located in engine bay against firewall.
- Slave cylinder: receives fluid to move the release fork or a concentric bearing. Can be external or concentric (inside bellhousing).
- Clutch cable (if cable): mechanical cable from pedal to fork; has an adjuster.
- Bellhousing: cast cover between engine and gearbox.
- Alignment tool: plastic/metal tool used to align the clutch disc to the gearbox input shaft when installing.
- Flywheel bolts, pressure-plate bolts, pilot bushing, dowel pins: small but critical hardware.

Automatic-transmission components (clutch-pack repair context)
- Torque converter: fluid coupling between engine and AT pump input.
- Pump and planetary gear sets: send pressurized fluid and handle gear ratios.
- Clutch pack: stack of alternating friction plates (lined) and steels. When applied hydraulically, the pack locks a drum to a shaft.
- Drums, pistons, return springs, seals: the drum houses the pack; pistons push the pack. Seals and springs control application.
- Bands and servos (if used): some gearsets use bands tightened by servos.
- Valve body: hydraulic control brain determining which clutches get applied.
- Valve-body valves, solenoids, filters: crucial to application timing and pressure.
- Friction material, steels, snap rings, thrust washers: wear items.

Tools and supplies you’ll need (manual clutch)
- Mechanical jack + rated jack stands or lift
- Transmission jack or helper
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, breaker bar, torque wrench (capable to factory spec)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, prybars
- Clutch alignment tool (cheap ones work)
- Snap-ring pliers (for some pilot bearings)
- Brake cleaner, rags, oil pan
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bushing if required)
- New flywheel bolts (often recommended)
- Flywheel resurfacing equipment or machine shop (or replacement flywheel)
- Hydraulic fluid brake fluid DOT3/DOT4 or specified clutch fluid
- Thread locker for specified bolts (factory manual)

PART 3 — DIAGNOSIS QUICK CHECKS (beginner-friendly)
Manual-clutch quick checks:
- Symptom: slipping (engine revs up, vehicle accelerates slowly). Quick test: in a low gear at low speed, fully depress clutch, put in gear, release gently — if engine RPM rises without acceleration, clutch slipping.
- Symptom: difficulty disengaging (grinding on gear change): try pulling handbrake and revving engine slightly while in gear and clutch depressed — if transmission grinds, clutch may not be fully releasing (air in hydraulics, bad slave/master, bent fork, worn release bearing).
- Pedal feel: spongy = air in system; hard or very stiff = binding cable or failed diaphragm.
- Visuals: check for fluid leaks around master/slave (hydraulic) or cable free play. Check transmission input shaft boot for oil leaks (oil on clutch disc = contaminated).
- Automatic trans symptoms: slipping, delayed engagement, harsh shifts, burnt smell — could be low fluid, burnt friction packs, or valve body problems.

PART 4 — MANUAL-CLUTCH REPAIR PROCEDURE (step-by-step, beginner-friendly)
This covers a typical hydraulic-clutch D22 (the cable version differs mainly where the cable and adjuster are involved; I’ll call out differences). Use factory manual for torque values.

1) Prepare
- Park on level ground. Chock rear wheels. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Drain engine/transmission fluid only if needed for access; usually you’ll pull the transmission without draining engine oil.

2) Remove components to access gearbox
- Remove intake tubes, airbox, and any components blocking the bellhousing (starter motor, battery tray if needed).
- Remove driveshafts: for 4WD models you may need to disconnect front propshaft or axle shafts; for rear-wheel drive, remove rear driveshaft or half-shafts depending on configuration.
- Remove exhaust section if it blocks access to transmission.
- Mark any wiring and hoses; remove selector linkages and speedometer cable (or disconnect cable/ECU connectors).
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
- Unbolt starter motor and any sensors on bellhousing.
- Disconnect clutch hydraulic line at slave if needed (catch fluid). If concentric slave is used, you’ll typically remove the bellhousing to access it.

3) Separate transmission from engine
- Remove bolts that attach bellhousing/transmission to engine (use penetrating oil; keep bolts organized).
- Lower transmission straight back with the jack. Have a helper steady the engine or use an engine support bar if required.

4) Inspect and remove old clutch
- With transmission out, inspect clutch for wear: clutch disc friction thickness, heat spots on flywheel or pressure plate, broken diaphragm fingers, burned smell.
- Remove pressure-plate bolts in a crisscross pattern to relieve pressure evenly.
- Inspect the pilot bearing, remove and replace if worn. Remove and send flywheel for resurfacing if heat-spotted; if deep grooves or cracking, replace.
- Assess clutch disc: if glazed or worn to rivets, replace.
- Inspect release bearing and replace always when replacing disc. Replace fork if bent/worn.

5) Prepare and install new parts
- Clean flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces with brake cleaner (do not contaminate friction surfaces).
- If resurfacing was done, ensure flywheel is within runout and flatness limits. Replace flywheel bolts if recommended; use thread locker per manual.
- Fit pilot bearing/bushing with press or socket carefully.
- Use clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc on the flywheel; install pressure plate and tighten bolts finger-tight then to specified torque in crisscross sequence.
Analogy: aligning the disc is like ensuring a pipe coupling is concentric — if off a little the gearbox input shaft won’t slide in.

6) Replace release bearing and fork
- Replace or grease pivot points per manual. If you have a concentric slave, replace it as a unit and inspect bellhousing bore.

7) Reinstall transmission
- Clean input shaft splines and lightly coat with specified high-temp grease on the splines (not on friction surfaces). Slide input shaft through the disc and into pilot bearing — the alignment tool helps.
- Raise transmission with jack, align dowels, and slide straight into engine. Start bolts by hand then torque in pattern.
- Reconnect all linkages, sensors, starter, driveshafts, exhaust, and any previously removed items.
- Refill/bleed the clutch hydraulic system: open bleed nipple at slave, have helper depress pedal slowly several times, close nipple. Repeat until firm pedal with no air.
- Check for fluid leaks.

8) Test
- Before lowering vehicle, check gear engagement with wheels chocked. Start engine, test clutch engagement/disengagement. Ensure no grinding.
- Road test under safe conditions: check for slip, noise, judder, and ensure pedal free play per spec.

Cable-clutch differences (if your D22 has one)
- Instead of master/slave, there’s a cable going from pedal to fork. Adjust free play using cable adjuster to spec. Replace cable if frayed or stiff. No fluid bleeding required.

Common checks after repair
- Clutch pedal free play: set to factory spec.
- Torque converter/fluid (automatic) or transmission oil level for manual.
- Re-check flywheel bolts after initial heat cycles.

PART 5 — AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION “CLUTCH PACK” REPAIR (overview for beginners — advanced)
Repairing automatic trans clutch packs is more involved and usually done by a transmission shop. Here’s what to expect and what a DIYer can do safely.

When to suspect internal clutch pack problems:
- Slips in specific gears, delayed engagement, burnt smell, inability to hold gear under load.
- ATF fluid is burnt or very dark; metal or clutch material in pan magnet.

High-level repair steps (do not skip a shop manual; internal reassembly requires special clearances and spring rates):
1) Diagnose: check codes (OBD), check ATF level/condition, pressure tests with trans pump gauge.
2) Remove transmission: disconnect lines, torque converter removal, unbolt trans from engine, use trans jack.
3) Remove valve body and pan: inspect clutch pack via pan/piston area for metal or burnt friction.
4) Disassemble individual clutch drums: remove snap rings, pistons, and pull out friction/steel plates.
5) Measure wear: friction plate thickness vs. new; steel plate warp and drum bore for wear; check snap ring clearance (endplay).
6) Replace all friction and steel plates in affected packs, replace seals and piston cups. Replace worn drums or servos. Replace torque converter if contaminated.
7) Reassemble with new gaskets and pay attention to end-play clearances and thrust washers; install new filter and fill with specified ATF.
8) Road test and reprogram/clear codes if any.

Notes and warnings:
- Torque specs, clearances, snap ring positions, and plate counts are critical. Failure to set endplay correctly causes immediate failure.
- If you don’t have a full shop manual and transmission press, I strongly recommend taking the unit to a transmission shop. Replacing the valve body or friction packs without specs will almost certainly cause problems.
- Automatic transmission repairs often require a press to remove snap rings and to install pistons/return springs.

PART 6 — COMMON FAILURE MODES & FIXES
Manual:
- Slipping: replace disc & pressure plate; machine or replace flywheel; check for oil contamination from rear main seal or input shaft seal.
- Hard pedal or no release: check master/slave cylinder leaks, air in system, worn fork or failed concentric slave. Replace faulty cylinder or slave.
- Chatter/judder on engagement: glazed disc or hotspots on flywheel/pressure plate; resurface or replace; check engine/trans mounts.
- Noise when depressed: worn release bearing — replace.

Automatic:
- Slip in one gear only: worn pack for that gear or valve-body/solenoid/low pressure.
- Burnt fluid + smell: replace fluid and filter and inspect for significant internal wear — usually rebuild.
- Harsh shifts: valve body or solenoid faults, or drag due to worn bands/clutches.

PART 7 — TIPS FOR BEGINNER MECHANICS
- Always replace the release bearing when you do the clutch disc — cheap insurance.
- Replace or resurface the flywheel. Do not reuse a badly scored or heat-cracked flywheel.
- Keep bolts organized and mark the orientation of anything that has directionality (linkages, sensors).
- Use an alignment tool to avoid forcing the transmission input shaft (which can damage the pilot bearing).
- Tighten pressure plate bolts gradually and evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Clean everything with solvent but do not allow grease or oil onto the friction surfaces.
- After install, initial break-in: avoid heavy loads and slipping the clutch excessively for the first 200–500 km.
- For automatics, start with simple things: fluid level and condition and scan codes. Many “internal” failures can be prevented or identified early.

Closing
If you want the exact bolt torque numbers, fluid types, or the step-by-step bolt locations for your exact year and engine (important), consult the Nissan factory service manual for the D22 — those specifics change with model year and engine (and they matter for safe reassembly). For manual-clutch replacement you can do it as a competent beginner with a friend and a transmission jack; for automatic-transmission clutch pack rebuilds, strongly consider a transmission specialist unless you already have transmission-disassembly experience and the manual.

No more questions.
rteeqp73

Radiator Flush D22 FRONTIER Nissan Navara Truck ZD30 Car or Other Vehicle | by JBManCave.com If you get the problem of overheating on your D22 or ZD30 engine then you may want to consider if it is time for a radiator flush if ...

ALINEACIÓN DE CAMBER EN NISSAN D22 FRONTIER

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