- Safety first — essential precautions
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and old clothes; brake fluid is corrosive and harms paint and skin.
- Work on a flat, level surface; use wheel chocks on the wheels that remain on the ground.
- Never rely on a jack alone; always support the vehicle on rated jack stands placed under the frame/axle.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and clean rags ready; brake fluid is flammable and messy.
- If you are not confident at any step, stop and get a professional — brakes are critical to safety.

- Overview of the job
- You will replace corroded or leaking steel hard lines and/or rubber flexible hoses that carry brake fluid from the master cylinder to the wheel brakes.
- Typical failure modes: rusted hard lines, cracked rubber flex hoses, seized flare nuts, collapsed hose, leaking fittings.
- Options for replacement: full pre-bent OE hard line sections, aftermarket stainless flex hose for wheel end, or repair by swapping a short section with a union. Pre-bent replacement lines are easiest for beginners.

- Tools you need (basic + extra) and how to use each
- Floor jack (2‑ton or larger) — used to lift the vehicle
- How to use: position under manufacturer jacking point, pump handle to lift; lift only high enough to place jack stands; do not work under vehicle supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) — used to support the vehicle safely
- How to use: set stands under solid frame points, lower vehicle onto stands slowly; shake vehicle to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks — prevent rolling
- How to use: place behind wheels remaining on ground before lifting.
- Lug wrench or 19mm/17mm impact/crossbar — remove wheels
- How to use: loosen lugs slightly before lifting, fully remove after vehicle is supported.
- Line wrenches / flare nut wrenches (sizes typically 10mm, 12mm, 14mm depending on fittings) — for undoing flare nuts without rounding them
- Description: six- or eight-point wrench with an open end that grips more of the nut than a standard wrench.
- How to use: fit the correct size snugly around the flare nut, apply steady force; if seized, use penetrating oil, let soak, tap gently with a hammer if needed.
- Combination wrenches / metric wrench set — for brackets and other bolts
- How to use: select correct size, pull rather than push when possible to avoid slipping.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist, Liquid Wrench) — frees seized fittings
- How to use: spray on fittings and let soak 10–20 minutes; reapply if necessary.
- Tubing cutter for brake line (brass/steel tube cutter) — clean cuts on steel brake tubing
- How to use: clamp around tube, tighten slightly, rotate cutter around tube, tighten progressively until cut through; do not crush the tube.
- Bench vise or vise grips — hold tubing or fittings while working
- How to use: clamp securely but avoid deforming tubing unless you are flaring/cutting; use soft jaws or protect tubing if needed.
- Brake line flaring tool (double‑flare tool kit) — required if you make your own hard line fittings
- Description: kit with cone and adapters to create a double flare on tubing end for brake fittings.
- How to use: cut tubing square, use tubing deburring tool, clamp in flaring bar, follow kit steps to form a double flare. Important: the D22 and most passenger vehicles use double flares on steel lines (confirm for your model).
- Tube bending tool (brake line bender) or bending spring — bend new steel line without kinking
- How to use: for the bender, clamp pipe and bend gradually to match original line routing; for spring, slide over tube and bend by hand, then remove spring.
- Tubing deburring tool — remove burrs inside cut tube
- How to use: run the tool inside the freshly cut tube, rotate to remove burrs to prevent leaks/blockage.
- Torque wrench (small range, 10–100 Nm or 10–80 ft·lb) — to tighten fittings to the correct torque
- How to use: set specified torque, tighten fitting until wrench clicks; do not over-torque flare nuts.
- Brake fluid (DOT3 or DOT4 — check vehicle sticker/owner’s manual; do not use DOT5 silicone) — for refilling and bleeding
- How to use: keep reservoir cap clean, top with fresh fluid only; never mix DOT5 with DOT3/4.
- Brake bleeder kit (hand pump pressure bleeder) or clear tubing + catch bottle + helper for manual bleeding or vacuum bleeder
- How to use: pressure bleeder pressurizes master cylinder to push fluid out; manual method needs a helper to pump pedal while you open bleed nipple; vacuum bleeder pulls fluid from caliper.
- Clear plastic tubing (to fit bleed nipple) and clean catch bottle — to monitor for air and capture fluid
- How to use: attach tubing over bleed nipple and submerge end in fluid to prevent air entry on manual bleeding if desired.
- Replacement brake lines (pre-bent OE hard lines or steel tubing and fittings) and/or flexible hoses, copper crush washers, new banjo bolts if applicable
- How to use: match part shapes to removed lines; use new washers and bolts at banjo connections; use OE or high-quality aftermarket parts.
- Brake line clips / mounting hardware — to secure lines along frame
- How to use: replace any broken clips to prevent chafing and future failure.
- Rag and brake cleaner — clean components and remove fluid spills
- How to use: spray and wipe; protect painted surfaces from fluid.
- Safety equipment — gloves, eye protection, work light, drip pan for fluid
- How to use: wear at all times; position drip pan under work area to catch fluid.

- Why certain extra tools are required (and when)
- Brake line flaring tool & tube bender are required only if you plan to make/repair your own steel hard line sections; making proper double flares and smooth bends is critical to avoid leaks and weaken the line.
- Pre-bent replacement hard lines eliminate the need to flare/bend and are recommended for beginners.
- A pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder is strongly recommended if you are doing the job alone; manual bleeding with a helper works but is slower and can trap pockets of air if done poorly.
- Line wrenches are essential because standard open-ended wrenches will round flare nuts, making them impossible to remove without cutting.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Steel hard brake lines (pre-bent OEM or aftermarket) — replace when rusted, dented, or leaking; rust leads to sudden failure.
- Flexible rubber brake hoses — replace if cracked, swollen, or leaking; hoses deteriorate over time.
- Copper crush washers and banjo bolts — mandatory replacement at each banjo connection to ensure sealing; old washers compress and leak.
- Flare nuts and fittings — replace if stripped or severely corroded; some fittings are reusable if clean and undamaged.
- Brake line clips and mounting hardware — replace broken clips to prevent line rubbing and future leaks.
- Brake caliper wheel-cylinder bleed screws — replace if rounded/stripped or leaking.
- Master cylinder or proportioning valve generally do not need replacement unless they are the source of leaks or internal failure; inspect before replacing.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullet points, concise)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, loosen wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Jack vehicle and place securely on jack stands; remove wheel(s) to access line runs and calipers/drums.
- Locate the line to be replaced: follow from master cylinder along frame to the flexible hose/wheel union; note all clip locations and bends; take photos for reference.
- Depressurize system by leaving reservoir cap off and covering master cylinder with a clean rag; optionally siphon some old fluid out (use proper container).
- Place a drip pan under the area where you will open lines; have rags ready.
- Apply penetrating oil to flare nuts and fittings; allow to soak.
- Remove clips and brackets holding the line in place (keep hardware if reusable or plan to replace).
- Using the correct-size line wrench, loosen the flare nut at one end first; catch fluid in pan. Work patiently to avoid rounding the nut.
- If removing a flexible hose at a caliper or union, remove banjo bolt(s) and discard the old copper crush washers.
- If cutting out a section of hard line, make a clean square cut with tube cutter; deburr inside and outside.
- If installing a pre-bent replacement hard line: fit it into place, secure to bracket clips, and attach flare nuts finger-tight initially. Ensure correct routing and no kinks.
- If fabricating a new line: measure and bend to match old line, cut square, deburr, and double‑flare ends using the flaring tool before connecting.
- Tighten flare nuts and banjo bolts to manufacturer torque specifications; if you do not have specs, tighten snugly and test — but best practice is to obtain torque specs from a repair manual or online OEM resources.
- Replace any crushed copper washers on banjo fittings and use new hardware where required.
- Clean any spilled fluid with brake cleaner; avoid letting fluid contact paint.
- Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle from jack stands, torque lug nuts to spec.
- Bleed the brakes starting with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder (usually passenger rear) and proceed toward the nearest (usually driver front), or follow Nissan D22-specific sequence if available.
- Bleeding methods:
- Manual with helper: helper pumps pedal 3–5 times and holds; you open bleed nipple to let fluid/air out until no air appears, then close nipple before helper releases pedal; repeat until firm pedal.
- Vacuum bleeder: attach vacuum to bleed nipple, open nipple, pump master cylinder as needed until clear fluid flows.
- Pressure bleeder: pressurize reservoir, open bleed nipples in proper sequence until clear fluid flows; top up master cylinder as needed to prevent air entry.
- Check for leaks at every fitting with a clean rag while a helper presses the pedal or while system is pressurized.
- Once bled, top brake fluid to MAX mark, clean reservoir cap threads, reinstall cap.
- Road test cautiously at very low speed in a safe area, testing stopping power and feel. Re-check for leaks and pedal firmness after a short drive.
- Re-torque fittings and re-check fluid level after first test drive.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Relying on a jack alone instead of jack stands.
- Rounding flare nuts by using the wrong wrench — use line wrenches.
- Making improper flares or kinking the tube if fabricating; improper flares or kinks cause leaks or failure.
- Letting the master cylinder run dry while bleeding — this introduces air and makes bleeding longer.
- Reusing copper crush washers at banjo fittings — they should be replaced every time.

- Final checks and maintenance
- Check all fittings after a few days of driving and after any heavy braking; re-tighten if minor seepage appears.
- Replace brake fluid per service schedule; contaminated fluid accelerates corrosion.
- Inspect hoses and lines each oil change interval for signs of rust or chafe.

- If you should not attempt this (quick guidance)
- If flare nuts are severely seized and require cutting at hard-to-reach locations, if rust is extensive along multiple sections, or if you cannot obtain the correct pre-bent lines or fittings, take the vehicle to a brake specialist.
- If you cannot achieve a firm pedal after bleeding or you observe visible leaks, stop and consult a professional.

- Recommended part sourcing
- Use OEM replacement pre-bent lines where available, or high-quality aftermarket hard-line kits designed for D22/Frontier/Navara/Terrano/Hardbody (match model/year).
- Use DOT3/DOT4 compatible brake fluid specified by Nissan for your model; do not use DOT5 silicone fluid.
- Buy a brake line repair kit or stainless braided hose kit from reputable suppliers if replacing flexible hoses at the wheels.

- Final safety reminder
- After any brake work, verify pedal feel and braking performance in a safe area at low speeds before normal driving. If anything feels wrong, stop and get professional help.
rteeqp73

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