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Nissan Frontier Navara Terrano Hardbody D22 1997-2004 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Socket set (metric; common sizes 8, 10 mm), ratchet, extensions
- Combination screwdrivers (flat, Phillips)
- Pliers (needle-nose)
- 10 mm open wrench (if needed)
- Multimeter (DC ohms)
- Fused 12 V jumper leads or a 12 V bench supply with a 1 A inline fuse
- Hand vacuum pump with gauge (optional but recommended)
- Throttle-body / intake cleaner and lint-free rags
- New auxiliary air valve (AAV) assembly and new O‑ring/gasket(s) if required
- Small container for removed fasteners, masking tape & marker to label hoses
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves
- Torque wrench (recommended)

Safety first
- Work on a cooled engine in a well‑ventilated area. Hot intake parts cause burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before disconnecting electrical connectors (for most steps). If you need to bench‑test the AAV electrically, reconnect battery only for that isolated test using a fused jumper.
- Use a 1 A inline fuse when applying 12 V to avoid burning the coil if shorted.
- Avoid open flames – cleaning solvents are flammable.
- Keep small parts and hoses labeled and away from moving parts when testing.

Overview / location
- On Nissan D22 (Frontier/Navara/Terrano/Hardbody) the auxiliary air valve (AAV, sometimes called auxiliary air regulator or idle air control/air valve) is mounted on or near the intake manifold/throttle body and has a 2‑pin electrical connector and one or more vacuum/intake ports. Its job is to control bypass air for cold idle and warm‑up.

Removal (step‑by‑step)
1. Gather tools and new parts. Ensure engine is cool and vehicle in park/neutral with parking brake on.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal (–) to prevent shorts when removing electrical connector.
3. Remove the intake snorkel/air intake hose to access throttle body and AAV. Loosen hose clamps with screwdriver or socket, remove ducting.
4. Locate the AAV: small cylindrical/plastic valve bolted to intake manifold or throttle body with 1–2 bolts and electrical connector plus vacuum hose(s).
5. Label any vacuum hoses or breather lines with masking tape & marker so you don’t mix them up on reassembly.
6. Disconnect electrical connector: depress tab and pull straight out. If clips are brittle, use care to avoid breaking them.
7. Remove vacuum hoses: use pliers if clips are stuck; twist to break seal then pull. Inspect hoses for cracks — replace if degraded.
8. Remove mounting bolts (usually 8–10 mm). Keep bolts in container.
9. Wiggle the valve free; note any O‑ring or gasket. Carefully remove and keep gasket/oring if you plan to reuse (recommended to replace).
10. Inspect intake mating surface and valve port for carbon buildup.

Bench testing / cleaning
A. Visual & vacuum check
- Inspect valve for cracks, broken tabs, seized actuator, heavy carbon. If diaphragm is torn or plastic cracked, replace.
- If you have a hand vacuum pump: attach to the vacuum port and apply vacuum while watching the valve mechanism (or ports). The valve should hold vacuum if it uses a diaphragm; if it leaks, replace.

B. Electrical/actuation check (only do this isolated bench test with fused jumper)
- Reconnect battery only for this test or use a 12 V bench supply.
- Set multimeter to measure resistance; measure across the two valve terminals. You should read a low resistance (tens to a few hundred ohms). Refer to factory service spec if available. Open circuit or extremely high resistance means coil is open (replace).
- To observe mechanical operation: use a fused 12 V jumper (1 A fuse inline) to briefly apply 12 V across the pins. The valve should click/move. Do not apply voltage for more than a second or two repeatedly to avoid overheating.
- If the valve clicks but is sticky, spray throttle‑body/intake cleaner into the ports while actuating to free the mechanism. Dry completely before reinstalling.

Replacement parts required
- If valve fails electrical (open coil), diaphragm leak, or cracked housing: replace entire AAV assembly.
- Replace O‑ring/gasket whenever valve is removed. Also inspect and replace any brittle vacuum hoses and intake duct clamps as needed.
- Use OEM or equivalent part specified for D22. If unsure, purchase AAV assembly + O‑ring.

Reinstallation
1. Clean mating surface on intake with rag and cleaner; ensure no debris falls into intake.
2. Fit new O‑ring/gasket (light smear of clean engine oil on O‑ring helps seating).
3. Position AAV and install mounting bolts finger‑tight. Torque to manufacturer spec (if unknown, snug then quarter‑turn: do not overtighten plastic bosses).
4. Reconnect vacuum hoses to the correct ports (refer to labels). Replace any hose clamps that were removed.
5. Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
6. Reinstall intake ducting and clamps.
7. Reconnect negative battery terminal.
8. Start engine and observe idle and listen for air leaks. If idle is irregular, check for vacuum leaks or fault codes.

Post‑service checks
- Scan ECU for stored codes and clear if needed. On start, allow ECU idle relearn (a few minutes of normal idle).
- If check engine light returns, perform diagnostics: measure AAV control signal with scan tool or multimeter per factory procedure.
- Road test and recheck for leaks.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Breaking plastic connector tabs or vacuum fittings: use proper lever technique and pliers carefully. Replace connectors if brittle.
- Forgetting to label hoses: mark hoses during removal to avoid wrong reassembly (incorrect routing causes rough idle).
- Applying battery 12 V without a fuse: can burn out coil — always use 1 A inline fuse for bench testing.
- Overtightening mounting bolts into plastic: use correct torque; overtightening can crack housing or manifold threads.
- Reusing old O‑ring/gasket: leads to vacuum leaks. Always replace seals.
- Contaminant falling into intake: plug intake port with clean rag while valve is off.
- Not checking hoses: cracked vacuum hoses are a common cause of AAV‑like symptoms — replace suspect hoses.
- Relying only on click test: the valve may click electrically but leak vacuum; use a hand vacuum pump to verify diaphragm integrity.

When to replace rather than clean
- Replace if electrical coil is open, diaphragm leaks, housing cracked, or if valve fails vacuum hold or is very sticky after cleaning. O‑rings and hoses should always be replaced if removed.

How the tools are used (quick reference)
- Multimeter: measure coil resistance; verify continuity. Use DC volts if checking operation with vehicle ECU commands.
- Fused jumper/bench supply: apply 12 V briefly to confirm actuation. Use inline fuse ~1 A.
- Hand vacuum pump: apply vacuum to check diaphragm and hold strength; gauge shows leak.
- Throttle body cleaner: spray inside ports and move plunger (if possible) to remove carbon; wipe until clean.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts to spec without over‑stressing plastic.

That’s the complete procedure to remove, test, clean/replace, and reinstall the auxiliary air valve on a Nissan D22. Follow safety steps and replace seals and degraded hoses to avoid vacuum leaks.
rteeqp73

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