- Safety and prerequisites
- Disconnect battery, work in well-ventilated, well-lit area, wear gloves and eye protection, have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- This job requires removing heavy components and precise measurement. If you are a complete beginner, plan to work slowly, follow a factory service manual for torque specs and sequences, and consider a professional for machining steps.
- Have a clean organized workspace, labeled bags/containers for fasteners, and a camera/phone to photograph disassembly for reference.

- Overview of what “working on connecting rods” means (brief)
- Tasks this can include: inspect rod journals and bearings, remove pistons and connecting rods, replace rod bearings and rod bolts, reinstall rods with correct bearing clearance, or replace bent/damaged rods and repair/replace crankshaft if journals are damaged.
- Most of the precision work (measuring clearances, grinding/cranking) requires special measuring tools or a machine shop.

- Tools you’ll need (basic then extra/specialty) — each tool described and how to use it
- 3/8" and 1/2" ratchet sets with metric sockets (8–24 mm)
- Use to remove bolts and nuts. Choose correct socket size to avoid rounding fasteners. Use extensions and universal joint for access. Keep sockets square on fasteners.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Use where a socket won’t fit. Pull straight, avoid side loading to prevent rounding.
- Breaker bar
- Long-handled bar for breaking loose stubborn bolts. Use controlled force, not impact. Once loose switch to ratchet.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, 3/8" and 1/2" drives covering 5–200 Nm)
- Use to tighten fasteners to factory torque values. Set to spec, tighten in steps (snug → spec). Do not use a cheater pipe on the torque wrench; always re-zero after heavy use.
- Torque-angle gauge or beam-style wrench (if rod bolts are torque‑to‑yield and require angle tightening)
- Used when bolts must be tightened by angle after an initial torque. Follow the service manual sequence exactly.
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) and engine stand
- Use hoist to lift engine out of truck if full engine removal is done; mount the block to an engine stand to rotate and access bottom end safely. Do not attempt to flip the engine by hand.
- Floor jack and sturdy jack stands
- If removing engine is not done, you may still need to lift the vehicle and support it safely to remove the oil pan and transmission. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Impact or breaker tools (optional)
- Speeds removal, but avoid using them on fasteners that need precise torqueing later.
- Engine support bar (if removing oil pan with engine in vehicle) or trans jack if supporting transmission
- Helps support engine while removing mounts.
- Oil drain pan and containers for fluids
- Catch draining oil and coolant; dispose properly.
- Screwdrivers and pry bars (various)
- For small components, hoses and gaskets; use plastic trim tools where possible to avoid damage.
- Hammer (soft-faced) and drift punches
- Use a soft-faced hammer for gentle persuasion only. Drift/punch to remove pins/caps carefully.
- Piston ring compressor
- Compresses piston rings evenly so piston can be driven into cylinder without damaging rings. Use the right diameter, tighten band evenly and tap piston in with a wooden handle.
- Piston ring pliers (optional)
- Remove/fit rings without deforming them.
- Feeler gauge set
- Measure side clearances and small gaps (e.g., piston ring end gap before assembly).
- Plastigauge
- Plastic strip used to measure rod bearing oil clearance. Place strip on journal, torque caps, remove caps, and measure flattened width against scale.
- Micrometer (outside micrometer, 0–25 mm and 25–50 mm) and/or calipers (dial or digital)
- Measure rod journal diameters, rod big-end bore, and rod bolt diameter. Micrometer gives precise measurements needed to select bearings.
- Dial bore gauge or telescoping gauge (recommended)
- Check cylinder bore and crank journal roundness/runout. If you don’t have this, get a machine shop to check the block/crank.
- Plastigauge gauge usage materials (clean rags, solvent)
- Clean surfaces before use; remove plastigauge immediately after measuring.
- Assembly lube (engine assembly grease)
- Coat bearings and journals to prevent dry starts on initial cranking.
- New rod bearings (upper and lower) and rod bolts (see parts section)
- Bearings are soft inserts that wear; always replace when removing rods.
- Gasket set (engine bottom end gasket set)
- Replace oil pan gasket, main seals, and other disturbed seals to prevent leaks.
- Shop manual or official torque/sequence sheet for your engine
- Contains torque values, sequences, and specifications; indispensable.

- Extra/specialty tools you may need and why
- Engine stand and hoist — required if you plan to remove the engine from the vehicle for safe, full access.
- Dial bore gauge / micrometers / crankshaft journal gauge — required to measure clearances; without them you can’t verify bearing clearance and should use a machine shop.
- Crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer puller — if the crank pulley must be removed to access timing or to remove the front cover.
- Bearing installation tools or bench vise with soft jaws — for careful installation of new bearings.
- If you don’t have these, plan to rent tools or use a machine shop for measurement and machining.

- Step-by-step procedure (high level, keep safe and refer to manual)
- Drain engine oil and coolant, disconnect battery and remove intake/exhaust accessories, valve cover(s), and cylinder head(s) or remove as required by your engine layout to gain access — keep labeled bags for bolts.
- Remove oil pan and windage tray to expose crank and connecting rods; if needed remove transmission or lower oil pan by supporting engine properly.
- Rotate engine by hand to bring each piston to bottom dead center (BDC) or as needed to access rod caps.
- Mark each rod and cap with a unique ID so orientation and order is retained (rod-to-piston and rod-to-journal orientation matters).
- Remove rod cap bolts/nuts using correct sockets/breaker; remove cap and then push piston up into cylinder to free rod from crank journal. Use care with piston rings and wristpin clips.
- Inspect rod bearing shells and journals visually for scoring, pitting, or overheating (bluing) and check oil for metal particles.
- If replacing bearings: clean rod and journal surfaces, install new bearing shells (upper and lower) with correct orientation, apply assembly lube.
- Measure bearing clearance using plastigauge per instructions: lay a strip on crank journal, install cap, torque to spec, remove cap and measure width. Compare to spec in manual.
- If clearance is out of spec, either select different bearing thickness (oversize/undersize) if available, or have crankshaft ground and matched bearings fitted by a machine shop.
- Check rod side clearance (axial play) with feeler gauge or by measuring with appropriate gauges.
- If replacing rod bolts, fit new bolts and torque to spec; many rod bolts are torque-to-yield — they must be replaced, tightened initially to a torque, then turned a specified angle.
- Reinstall caps in correct orientation, torque in the sequence and stages specified by the manual, apply assembly lube to bearings before final assembly.
- Reassemble oil pan, gaskets, seals, and all removed components, refill fluids, reconnect battery. Prime oiling system before starting (crank with fuel disabled or use oil pump priming procedure).
- Start engine and listen for knocking; recheck torque and leaks after test run.

- How to use a few critical tools (short practical how‑tos)
- Torque wrench
- Set the required Nm or ft‑lb value on the handle, make the first stage snug, then apply final torque smoothly until the wrench clicks. Re-check values after the engine has run and cooled if required.
- Plastigauge
- Cut piece to length, lay on crank journal, install cap and torque to spec, then remove cap. Compare flattened plastigauge width to the printed scale to read clearance. Do not rotate crank while plastigauge is installed.
- Piston ring compressor
- Place compressor around rings, tighten evenly so compressor band is flush with piston skirt, insert piston squarely into bore, and tap with a wooden handle until rings enter the bore.
- Micrometer
- Clean measuring surfaces, zero micrometer on its anvil, place over the journal and turn spindle until it contacts snugly, read the scale. Use consistent pressure.

- Common parts that usually must be replaced and why
- Rod bearings (upper and lower)
- Always replace when removing rods; bearings wear and are cheap relative to engine damage. Replace to proper size/grade per measurements.
- Rod bolts (or nuts)
- Many modern rod bolts are torque‑to‑yield (TTY) and must be replaced once removed because they stretch. Even if reusable, replace if damaged or beyond service life.
- Gaskets and seals (oil pan gasket, front/rear crank seals)
- Disturbed during removal and must be new to prevent oil leaks.
- Pistons/piston rings
- Replace only if rings are damaged, excessive wear, scored cylinder walls, or piston damage is evident. If replacing rings, also check cylinder bore for wear/hone/rebore.
- Crankshaft (or journal regrind) and mains/rod bearings matching
- Replace or have machined if journals are scored, worn beyond spec, or out of round. Machine shop will grind to undersize and supply matching bearings.
- Connecting rods (replacement assembly)
- Replace if bent, twisted, cracked, or big-end is out of tolerance. Replacing a damaged rod prevents catastrophic engine failure.

- Symptoms that indicate parts are needed (why replacement may be required)
- Loud knocking from lower engine that changes with RPM (rod knock) — indicates worn rod bearings or damaged bearings/journals.
- Low oil pressure and metal particles in oil filter/oil — bearing wear or severe damage.
- Loss of compression in a cylinder or visible scoring on bores/pistons — may require piston/ring or bore work.

- When to use a machine shop / when to stop and get professional help
- If crank journals are damaged, out of round, or need undersize bearing fitting — use a machine shop for grinding and bearing selection.
- If you lack a dial bore gauge, micrometer, or you don’t trust your measurements — have bearings measured and fitted by a shop.
- If rods are bent or pistons are damaged — a shop can supply replacement parts/spec machining.

- Final checks and tips
- Follow the factory torque specs and tightening sequences precisely; wrong torque causes major failures.
- Use clean lint‑free rags and solvent when assembling; contamination shortens bearing life.
- Prime the oil system before first start (crank without fuel or use oil pump priming method) to avoid dry starts.
- Change oil and filter after initial break-in and re-check for metal in the filter.
- Keep a workshop manual or repair data handy for engine-specific specs and clearances.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting
- Complete rod bearing set (upper & lower)
- New rod bolts (if TTY or mildly recommended)
- Oil pan gasket, front/rear main seals, oil filter, engine oil
- Assembly lube and cleaning solvent
- Optional: piston rings/pistons, new rods, crankshaft grinding service (if inspection suggests)

- Final note
- This is an advanced engine repair requiring precision tools and measurements. If you do not have micrometers, plastigauge, torque-angle tools, an engine hoist/stand, or access to machining, plan to rent tools and/or use a reputable machine shop for measuring and journal work. Doing the job without proper measurement and torque procedures risks catastrophic engine failure.
rteeqp73

Nissan Navara D21 Radiator Replacement A hot Aussie summer looming and a dodgy old radiator were not going to play nice together.

Why the Nissan Hardbody is (Almost) Perfect – And How I Tried to Fix It The 1993 Nissan Truck (aka Nissan Pickup, Nissan Hardbody, or Nissan D21) was a nearly perfect truck. It was simple, rugged, ...

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